What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!
"The design doesn't allow for a skirt."
OK, then, mortise and tenon with dowels, too. To secure tenons in mortises.
Lots of interest and lots of stability & strength.
Rabbit out the legs to allow "the box" to recess into the legs which will
add strength and stability again as well as an interesting construction
detail.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
> legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
> above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
> 4 legs.
> resrfglc wrote:
>> Not sure why the design fails to provide for supports for legs, but you
>> know
>> best.
>>
>> Would design allow you to tenon tops of legs and mortise top so that part
>> of
>> leg came through the top?
>>
>> Or use a round tenon and Forstner bit so end of leg inserts into top but
>> does NOT protrude/show through?
>>
>> Alternatively, could you put the "skirt interior to the legs so it would
>> be
>> hidden, but still provide some support?
>>
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
>> > 3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
>> > allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
>> > find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
>> > of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
>> > considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
>> > legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
>> > real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!
>> >
>
Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
4 legs.
resrfglc wrote:
> Not sure why the design fails to provide for supports for legs, but you know
> best.
>
> Would design allow you to tenon tops of legs and mortise top so that part of
> leg came through the top?
>
> Or use a round tenon and Forstner bit so end of leg inserts into top but
> does NOT protrude/show through?
>
> Alternatively, could you put the "skirt interior to the legs so it would be
> hidden, but still provide some support?
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
> > 3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
> > allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
> > find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
> > of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
> > considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
> > legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
> > real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!
> >
Thanks!
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
> >legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
> >above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
> >4 legs.
>
> It's not real clear to me how this goes together... but you can get the
> figure-8 fasteners here:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=50311&cat=3,41306,41312
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Yep, these are called table irons also. Several versions out there but
I like these solid versions vs the stamped sheet metal versions.
I suggest drilling (fostner) the holes in the legs about 3/32 deeper
than the thickness of the irons. This allows you to cinch down the
table top real tight. Also, make sure to put the hole close enough to
the edge or chisle out the sides a bit because you'll want the iron to
be able to swivel to account for expansion of the top. Even under a
tight screw it will swivel when it needs too.
I'd also suggest putting two of these at each leg, probably on the two
inside faces but anywhere is OK. People will be lifting the table by
the top over the years and you want a good connection. Also, I've had
tops get kicked loose (during shipping problems) over the years so be
brave and use the longest screw you can trust into the top to make sure
you get a good bite. I was only using 5/8" screws into a 3/4 top and
they pulled out pretty easy. You should be OK with 1" screws into your
5/4 top.
Doug Miller wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
> >legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
> >above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
> >4 legs.
>
> It's not real clear to me how this goes together... but you can get the
> figure-8 fasteners here:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=50311&cat=3,41306,41312
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
>> > What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
>> > 3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
>> > allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
>> > find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
>> > of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
>> > considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
>> > legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
>> > real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!
>> >
>
I would use wooden dowels and glue.
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
"Stoutman" <.@.> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>> > What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak
>>> > (42"x20"x1.25"-
>>> > 3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
>>> > allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
>>> > find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
>>> > of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
>>> > considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
>>> > legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
>>> > real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!
>>> >
>>
>
> I would use wooden dowels and glue.
Scratch that! I think I understand now how your table goes together. You
are better off using the figure eights.
>
> Stoutman
> www.garagewoodworks.com
>
>
In article <[email protected]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Actually there are support for the legs. It's basically a box. The 4
>legs are screwed into the box on the 4 corners with about 6 inches
>above the box and 2 inches below. The tabletop sits on the tops of the
>4 legs.
It's not real clear to me how this goes together... but you can get the
figure-8 fasteners here:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=50311&cat=3,41306,41312
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Not sure why the design fails to provide for supports for legs, but you know
best.
Would design allow you to tenon tops of legs and mortise top so that part of
leg came through the top?
Or use a round tenon and Forstner bit so end of leg inserts into top but
does NOT protrude/show through?
Alternatively, could you put the "skirt interior to the legs so it would be
hidden, but still provide some support?
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
> 3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
> allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
> find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
> of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
> considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
> legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
> real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What would you guys recommend to attach a solid red oak (42"x20"x1.25"-
> 3 boards glued) table top to 4 - 1.75"x1.75" legs. The design doesn't
> allow for a skirt. Is there some sort of recommended hardware I could
> find at Home Depot or an Ace? The plans show a sort of figure 8 piece
> of metal that I've never seen before. What would the wood movement
> considerations be. I think it would be considered end grain (top of
> legs) into long grain (table top). Thanks for the help. It's my first
> real project, so sorry for the stupid noob question. Thanks!
>
That would depend on the rest of the table design. If there is no shelf,
apron, or other supports, it had better be handled very very gently or it
will fold up.