We're hoping that our new house will be finished in a few months and I'm sort of
planning my shop..
My 1st priority before moving stuff in is protecting the floor, which will be
ceramic tile... not sure yet if they're using 9 or 12" tiles, we pick these out
next weekend..
Two goals in mind:
1.. protect the tile from dropped tools, machines being rolled around shop,
etc....
2.. some cushion for walking and ability to roll lathes and saws around without
bogging them down..
I'll use as many anti-fatiage mats as needed, but only at needed areas since I
have the kind that are supposed to link together... they never seem to stay
linked, especially when you're rolling tools around..
My wife is thinking indoor-outdoor carpet but i'm not sure how sweepable or
vacuumable that would be...
Any suggestions??
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
mac davis wrote:
> We're hoping that our new house will be finished in a few months and I'm sort of
> planning my shop..
>
> My 1st priority before moving stuff in is protecting the floor, which will be
> ceramic tile... not sure yet if they're using 9 or 12" tiles, we pick these out
> next weekend..
>
> Two goals in mind:
>
> 1.. protect the tile from dropped tools, machines being rolled around shop,
> etc....
>
> 2.. some cushion for walking and ability to roll lathes and saws around without
> bogging them down..
>
>
G'day Mac,
I hate the expression "If it was me" but this is my idea.
Put a floating floor down. Use yellow tongue chipboard flooring on
bearers. The bearers do not need to be heavy as they are supported all
over by the original floor. Just 2 x 1 or 3 x 1 on the flat. Glue some
felt or rubber strips on the bottom of the bearers and that will ensure
your tiles are protected. It will only decrease head room by a couple of
inches and the timber will be much more forgiving on legs and tools.
Another advantage is it will reduce the amount of anti-fatigue mats, if
any that are needed.
I don't think it's a cheap solution, in Oz the yellow tongue is about
$80.00 for a 12' x 4' 3/4 sheet.
Anyhow just my 2 bob's worth mate.
Have fun
John
"mac davis"
> We're hoping that our new house will be finished in a few months and I'm
> sort of
> planning my shop..
>
> My 1st priority before moving stuff in is protecting the floor, which will
> be
> ceramic tile... not sure yet if they're using 9 or 12" tiles, we pick
> these out
> next weekend..
>
> Two goals in mind:
>
> 1.. protect the tile from dropped tools, machines being rolled around
> shop,
> etc....
>
> 2.. some cushion for walking and ability to roll lathes and saws around
> without
> bogging them down..
>
> I'll use as many anti-fatiage mats as needed, but only at needed areas
> since I
> have the kind that are supposed to link together... they never seem to
> stay
> linked, especially when you're rolling tools around..
>
> My wife is thinking indoor-outdoor carpet but i'm not sure how sweepable
> or
> vacuumable that would be...
>
> Any suggestions??
> Mac
Mac, are you asking about protecting the shop floor or the house floor
during the move-in and setup?
If the shop floor is tile already, (this is your Baja House correct?), just
cover it with 2 layers of Polyethylene sheeting and a layer of heavy paper
then lay 2"x4" 12" OC sleepers the 3/4" floor rated sheeting plywood. Its a
lot, especially in Mexico.
On second thought, it might be less money to to lay the 2 layers of
Polyethylene sheeting down and pour a 1-2" concrete floor over the tile.
This way your could remove the floor and save the tile work.
Dave
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
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If I were in your shoes I would skip the ceramic tile for a workshop
area and look into either a decorative epoxy coating or commercial
tiles to cover the (I assume) cement.
Two examples I found from a Google Search. (No affiliation with
either)
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm_product_id=56&SBL=1
http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/index.jsp
It seems either would provide a nice look, will be durable, and clean
up easily.
If I were in your shoes I would skip the ceramic tile for a workshop
area and look into either a decorative epoxy coating or commercial
tiles to cover the (I assume) cement.
Two examples I found from a Google Search. (No affiliation with
either)
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm_product_id=56&SBL=1
http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/index.jsp
It seems either would provide a nice look, will be durable, and clean
up easily.
Good luck with whatever you choose and enjoy the new shop!
mac davis wrote:
> We're hoping that our new house will be finished in a few months and I'm sort of
> planning my shop..
>
> My 1st priority before moving stuff in is protecting the floor, which will be
> ceramic tile... not sure yet if they're using 9 or 12" tiles, we pick these out
> next weekend..
>
> Two goals in mind:
>
> 1.. protect the tile from dropped tools, machines being rolled around shop,
> etc....
>
> 2.. some cushion for walking and ability to roll lathes and saws around without
> bogging them down..
>
> I'll use as many anti-fatiage mats as needed, but only at needed areas since I
> have the kind that are supposed to link together... they never seem to stay
> linked, especially when you're rolling tools around..
>
> My wife is thinking indoor-outdoor carpet but i'm not sure how sweepable or
> vacuumable that would be...
>
> Any suggestions??
The tile is nothing more than a liabitility in that situation. From
another reply I read that it's a house on the Baja peninsula, so I
guess it's safe to assume it's a slab on grade. In that situation,
staining and sealing the concrete would be the easiest, cheapest, best
looking (and most likely to stay that way) way to deal with a shop
floor. Anti-fatigue mats are pricey. Adding that on top of the tile
floor...well, you're shop would have the most expensive floor in the
house! Not that you don't deserve it. ;)
Acid staining can be as simple or as complex as you'd like.
http://www.acidstainconcrete.com
http://www.concrete-stains.com/pictures.html
If you end up liking the idea and deciding on staining your floor a
large scale walnut burl with holly stringing and maybe a nice faux
marguetry inlay - post some pictures!
R
I see how you wish for everything to match. But honestly, if you have
the $$ today there is no reason you cannot put it in a savings account
for use later. Plus, if your future finances are questionable, the
cash may be much more valuable than a matching tile floor that you've
covered with gym mats (and most likely wrecked) so it can be used as a
workshop now.
IMO, the smart money move is to purchase what you need rather than buy
what you think someone else may want a few years from now. Keep in
mind, you're not the only couple who would enjoy having a nice rec room
with a durable flooring that is a space for mom & dad workshop or the
kids to horse around in, so choosing that design also has much value.
Keep in mind, durable flooring products don't have to be ugly.
Good luck. Sounds like you're making one nice living space for your
family and I hope whatever you choose works out well for you.
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> We're hoping that our new house will be finished in a few months and I'm
> sort of
>> planning my shop..
>>
>> My 1st priority before moving stuff in is protecting the floor, which
>> will
> be
>> ceramic tile... not sure yet if they're using 9 or 12" tiles, we pick
> these out
>> next weekend..
>>
>
> Hey Mac - the first question that comes to mind is why tile the floor in
> an
> area like that? It's not a floor surface that is in any way compatible
> with
> its use and just causes you to have to come up with work-arounds right out
> of the chute. Why not just put down a more appropriate floor and then
> someday if you change the use of the area you can tear up the existing and
> lay tile?
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
I agree, if you are wanting something that looks nice, you might want to
consider a stained concrete floor.
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We're hoping that our new house will be finished in a few months and I'm
> sort of
> planning my shop..
>
> My 1st priority before moving stuff in is protecting the floor, which will
> be
> ceramic tile... not sure yet if they're using 9 or 12" tiles, we pick
> these out
> next weekend..
>
> Two goals in mind:
>
> 1.. protect the tile from dropped tools, machines being rolled around
> shop,
> etc....
>
> 2.. some cushion for walking and ability to roll lathes and saws around
> without
> bogging them down..
>
> I'll use as many anti-fatiage mats as needed, but only at needed areas
> since I
> have the kind that are supposed to link together... they never seem to
> stay
> linked, especially when you're rolling tools around..
>
> My wife is thinking indoor-outdoor carpet but i'm not sure how sweepable
> or
> vacuumable that would be...
>
> Any suggestions??
Depending on space size and access, might be best to go with roll-up sisal
rugs at the places likely to have tools dropped on tile. Assuming terra
cotta or ceramic, versus vinyl, yes?
Roll the rugs to whack/wash outside and sweep with compound. They'll
cushion legs, too.
On Tue, 23 May 2006 18:20:34 -0400, Leuf <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 23 May 2006 07:24:06 -0700, mac davis
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Changing the floor isn't really an option, looking more to cover it..
>
>I don't quite get how a floor you haven't picked out yet can't be
>changed. If you don't know if you'll have the money later you can buy
>the tile now and store it, then you know you'll have a match and I
>think you'll find the money or time to lay it yourself if the tile is
>already there. Or stick the money in a bond or something.
>
>I would not like the idea of trying to roll a table saw over a
>patchwork of area rugs. If you build up a false floor you've got the
>chance to run any extra electrical and maybe even the DC ducts in the
>floor, though you'd need access to the ducts so I dunno how that would
>work.
>
>
>-Leuf
wow.. I really like the idea of running electrical under a sub-floor!
As to changing the floor, etc.....
Our house looks like it's going to be completed in "record time" for the area: 8
months for a 1,600 sq foot home..lol
All flooring, electrical, etc. are sort of carved in stone once the plans are
approved and home is started... We don't want to "rock the boat" in any way with
the builder because in the last 6 months, cost of construction has gone from $80
a foot to around $120...
I'm still thinking large anti fatigue mats, as that's what I use in my garage
now... the problem that I'm having is finding some that are bigger than 4 or 5
feet long..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We're hoping that our new house will be finished in a few months and I'm
sort of
> planning my shop..
>
> My 1st priority before moving stuff in is protecting the floor, which will
be
> ceramic tile... not sure yet if they're using 9 or 12" tiles, we pick
these out
> next weekend..
>
Hey Mac - the first question that comes to mind is why tile the floor in an
area like that? It's not a floor surface that is in any way compatible with
its use and just causes you to have to come up with work-arounds right out
of the chute. Why not just put down a more appropriate floor and then
someday if you change the use of the area you can tear up the existing and
lay tile?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
> Any suggestions??
> Mac
Yes, one that worked beautifully for me at my old shop.
Serious conveyor belts are rubberized weave.... often 1/2" thick or more
if their duty is like coal in a power station.
Gravel pits have that stuff.
When they are replaced, the old ones are a real pain to dispose of, yet
a simple hosing off will leave one with lots of rubber flooring.
The hard part is that the stuff is usually on a roll weighing several
tons. Some companies, like they did in my case, let me unroll and cut
what I needed in situ. Free stuff.....got to love it.
mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
: Sort of a short version of a long story, Mike...
: We're moving to Baja California and had planned on renting the house out for a
: few years before we actually lived in it, so we decided that we'd make it a 3
: bedroom with a really big (18 x 21') 3rd bedroom... rents would be $150 a night
: as opposed to $110...
: Now we've decided to move in as son as the house is done... and the room will be
: completely finished with plastered walls and tile floor to match the rest of the
: house...
: Also, we know that we can afford things like floors and air filters now, as part
: of the sale of our house and all, but don't really know what finances will be
: like "down the road"..
: Mac
Tile will chip and break, and is uneven enough to be a pain for rolling big
tools.
I highly recommend acid-stained concrete. Our entire guesthouse has it,
including the shop, and it looks great. And it's relatively inexpensive --
we gpot the stuff from Sherwin Williams for about $50/gallon, and
each is good for at least 200 sf. Top it off with a waterbase acrylic topcoat,
and you'll be happy.
Have a look:
http://www.kemiko.com/
-- Andy Barss
mac davis wrote:
> On Tue, 23 May 2006 18:20:34 -0400, Leuf <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 23 May 2006 07:24:06 -0700, mac davis
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Changing the floor isn't really an option, looking more to cover it..
>> I don't quite get how a floor you haven't picked out yet can't be
>> changed. If you don't know if you'll have the money later you can buy
>> the tile now and store it, then you know you'll have a match and I
>> think you'll find the money or time to lay it yourself if the tile is
>> already there. Or stick the money in a bond or something.
>>
>> I would not like the idea of trying to roll a table saw over a
>> patchwork of area rugs. If you build up a false floor you've got the
>> chance to run any extra electrical and maybe even the DC ducts in the
>> floor, though you'd need access to the ducts so I dunno how that would
>> work.
>>
>>
>> -Leuf
>
> wow.. I really like the idea of running electrical under a sub-floor!
>
> As to changing the floor, etc.....
> Our house looks like it's going to be completed in "record time" for the area: 8
> months for a 1,600 sq foot home..lol
> All flooring, electrical, etc. are sort of carved in stone once the plans are
> approved and home is started... We don't want to "rock the boat" in any way with
> the builder because in the last 6 months, cost of construction has gone from $80
> a foot to around $120...
>
> I'm still thinking large anti fatigue mats, as that's what I use in my garage
> now... the problem that I'm having is finding some that are bigger than 4 or 5
> feet long..
>
>
> Mac
>
> https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
> https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
How about rolls of the stuff,
http://www.durablecorp.com/infoanti.htm#safspun first site I got from an
exact phrase search on 'anti fatigue mat'. I saw at least 3 products 6'
wide and up to 60' long.
Joe
On Wed, 24 May 2006 01:35:19 -0400, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Any suggestions??
>> Mac
>
>Yes, one that worked beautifully for me at my old shop.
>Serious conveyor belts are rubberized weave.... often 1/2" thick or more
>if their duty is like coal in a power station.
>Gravel pits have that stuff.
>When they are replaced, the old ones are a real pain to dispose of, yet
>a simple hosing off will leave one with lots of rubber flooring.
>The hard part is that the stuff is usually on a roll weighing several
>tons. Some companies, like they did in my case, let me unroll and cut
>what I needed in situ. Free stuff.....got to love it.
that would be cool... have to see if there is anything like that around the
area...
I know that there is a cement plant and must be a quarry around, too..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On Wed, 24 May 2006 07:41:33 -0700, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 23 May 2006 18:20:34 -0400, Leuf <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Tue, 23 May 2006 07:24:06 -0700, mac davis
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Changing the floor isn't really an option, looking more to cover it..
>>
>>I don't quite get how a floor you haven't picked out yet can't be
>>changed.
>
>As to changing the floor, etc.....
>Our house looks like it's going to be completed in "record time" for the area: 8
>months for a 1,600 sq foot home..lol
>All flooring, electrical, etc. are sort of carved in stone once the plans are
>approved and home is started... We don't want to "rock the boat" in any way with
>the builder because in the last 6 months, cost of construction has gone from $80
>a foot to around $120...
Well I can understand if you suddenly wanted hardwood instead of tile
at the last minute. But with this all you are doing to his schedule
is decreasing the amount of time the tile guy is tying up the jobsite.
I can't see a builder being unhappy about that. It's not so much a
'change' as a 'subtraction'.
All I can think of is a plane falling off the bench and taking a chip
out of the plane AND a tile at the same time. I'd be too disgusted to
go back in the shop for days.
-Leuf
On Mon, 22 May 2006 11:47:07 -0700, "Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Mac, are you asking about protecting the shop floor or the house floor
>during the move-in and setup?
The shop, Dave..
>
>If the shop floor is tile already, (this is your Baja House correct?), just
>cover it with 2 layers of Polyethylene sheeting and a layer of heavy paper
>then lay 2"x4" 12" OC sleepers the 3/4" floor rated sheeting plywood. Its a
>lot, especially in Mexico.
>
>On second thought, it might be less money to to lay the 2 layers of
>Polyethylene sheeting down and pour a 1-2" concrete floor over the tile.
>This way your could remove the floor and save the tile work.
>
>Dave
>
wow.. serious work.. *g*
I was thinking something like cushioned mat or vinyl... something like that..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On Mon, 22 May 2006 15:33:39 -0400, "George" <George@least> wrote:
>Depending on space size and access, might be best to go with roll-up sisal
>rugs at the places likely to have tools dropped on tile. Assuming terra
>cotta or ceramic, versus vinyl, yes?
right, George... fired ceramic tile...
>Roll the rugs to whack/wash outside and sweep with compound. They'll
>cushion legs, too.
>
that's a thought... sort of like area rugs, I guess...
they could also be in the spaces between anti-fatiage mats, I guess..
I want to be able to use most of the tools both inside or outside, so rolling is
a big thing..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On Mon, 22 May 2006 11:23:42 -0400, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> We're hoping that our new house will be finished in a few months and I'm
>sort of
>> planning my shop..
>>
>> My 1st priority before moving stuff in is protecting the floor, which will
>be
>> ceramic tile... not sure yet if they're using 9 or 12" tiles, we pick
>these out
>> next weekend..
>>
>
>Hey Mac - the first question that comes to mind is why tile the floor in an
>area like that? It's not a floor surface that is in any way compatible with
>its use and just causes you to have to come up with work-arounds right out
>of the chute. Why not just put down a more appropriate floor and then
>someday if you change the use of the area you can tear up the existing and
>lay tile?
Sort of a short version of a long story, Mike...
We're moving to Baja California and had planned on renting the house out for a
few years before we actually lived in it, so we decided that we'd make it a 3
bedroom with a really big (18 x 21') 3rd bedroom... rents would be $150 a night
as opposed to $110...
Now we've decided to move in as son as the house is done... and the room will be
completely finished with plastered walls and tile floor to match the rest of the
house...
Also, we know that we can afford things like floors and air filters now, as part
of the sale of our house and all, but don't really know what finances will be
like "down the road"..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On Tue, 23 May 2006 07:24:06 -0700, mac davis
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Changing the floor isn't really an option, looking more to cover it..
I don't quite get how a floor you haven't picked out yet can't be
changed. If you don't know if you'll have the money later you can buy
the tile now and store it, then you know you'll have a match and I
think you'll find the money or time to lay it yourself if the tile is
already there. Or stick the money in a bond or something.
I would not like the idea of trying to roll a table saw over a
patchwork of area rugs. If you build up a false floor you've got the
chance to run any extra electrical and maybe even the DC ducts in the
floor, though you'd need access to the ducts so I dunno how that would
work.
-Leuf
On Tue, 23 May 2006 00:29:48 GMT, John B <[email protected]>
wrote:
>G'day Mac,
>I hate the expression "If it was me" but this is my idea.
>Put a floating floor down. Use yellow tongue chipboard flooring on
>bearers. The bearers do not need to be heavy as they are supported all
>over by the original floor. Just 2 x 1 or 3 x 1 on the flat. Glue some
>felt or rubber strips on the bottom of the bearers and that will ensure
>your tiles are protected. It will only decrease head room by a couple of
>inches and the timber will be much more forgiving on legs and tools.
>Another advantage is it will reduce the amount of anti-fatigue mats, if
>any that are needed.
>I don't think it's a cheap solution, in Oz the yellow tongue is about
>$80.00 for a 12' x 4' 3/4 sheet.
>
>Anyhow just my 2 bob's worth mate.
>
>Have fun
>John
hmm.. sort of along Dave's line of thought... might be worth the work and
money...
Not sure how available sheet goods would be in Baja, though... they use very
little wood in construction there... rough guess would be about 18 sheets for an
18' x 21' room?
Might be cheaper to just use those peel and stick hardwood flooring strips??
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
On 22 May 2006 12:40:22 -0700, "A.M. Wood" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>If I were in your shoes I would skip the ceramic tile for a workshop
>area and look into either a decorative epoxy coating or commercial
>tiles to cover the (I assume) cement.
>
>Two examples I found from a Google Search. (No affiliation with
>either)
>
>http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?frm_product_id=56&SBL=1
>
>http://www.armstrong.com/commflooringna/index.jsp
>
>It seems either would provide a nice look, will be durable, and clean
>up easily.
>
>
>Good luck with whatever you choose and enjoy the new shop!
Thanks! (looking forward to a shop with heat and AC)
Changing the floor isn't really an option, looking more to cover it..
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm