Folks -
Lawdy! I am still futzing with my old craftsman 6" jointer and am going to
swap motors out for MORE POWER. The spare motor I had laying around is 1.5
hp. It's an old GE unit, probably weighs 80# - capacitor start, ALL cast
iron.
Anyway, the original jointer motor is 1/2 hp at 3450 rpm and has a 2.5" D
pulley. The GE motor is 1.5 HP at 1715 RPM. It has a ~4" D pulley. Now, I
know that should get a 5" D pulley, but live in a small town, and darn it,
the local hardware store just doesn't have a huge selection of pulleys with
7/8" bore... none, in fact...
So, I'll go with what I have for now - knowing that the cutterhead speed
will be a bit low. My question is that WITH a 5" pulley, will I only have
an effective HP or Torque of 3/4 HP since I am doubling the output speed?
I am also wondering if 1.5 HP may be a bit rich - the bearings in the
jointer are okay and all... I don't use do face jointing of boards so I
don't think I'd be putting that much of a load on it, but with the existing
1/2 HP I could easily (very easily) overload it edge jointing 6/4 oak.
Final question - the motor data tag says it'll run 110/220, but I have *NO*
idea how it is currently (no pun intended) wired, and have no manual for it.
How can I tell how it's wired?
Whatcha'll thimk?
John Moorhead
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Final question - the motor data tag says it'll run 110/220, but I have
*NO*
> idea how it is currently (no pun intended) wired, and have no manual for
it.
> How can I tell how it's wired?
>
> Whatcha'll thimk?
>
> John Moorhead
The data tag most likely has a schematic showing the proper connections for
low/high voltage.
Jerry
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Now, I
> know that should get a 5" D pulley, but live in a small town, and darn it,
> the local hardware store just doesn't have a huge selection of pulleys
with
> 7/8" bore... none, in fact...
www.grainger.com or www.mcmaster.com
> So, I'll go with what I have for now - knowing that the cutterhead speed
> will be a bit low. My question is that WITH a 5" pulley, will I only have
> an effective HP or Torque of 3/4 HP since I am doubling the output speed?
No. it is stillthe same hp/
> Final question - the motor data tag says it'll run 110/220, but I have
*NO*
> idea how it is currently (no pun intended) wired, and have no manual for
it.
> How can I tell how it's wired?
Remove the plate covering hte wiring. It may be printed on the inside.
Often the motor plate has it on the outside.
>
> Whatcha'll thimk?
A little Rube Goldberg, probably overkill on the power, but if it works and
it is cheap, good for you.
It will still be 1.5 hp, even with a 20 inch pulley. But easier to
stall. Shouldn't be a problem with a 4 or 5" pulley. My lathe has
several pulley size configurations but no noticeable change in power,
just speed of the second shaft. There is often a wiring diagram inside
the cover where you connect the wires. I can't remember the
configuration offhand, but could pull a cover and look if you don't get
a good response from someone else.
John Moorhead wrote:
> Folks -
>
> Lawdy! I am still futzing with my old craftsman 6" jointer and am going to
> swap motors out for MORE POWER. The spare motor I had laying around is 1.5
> hp. It's an old GE unit, probably weighs 80# - capacitor start, ALL cast
> iron.
>
> Anyway, the original jointer motor is 1/2 hp at 3450 rpm and has a 2.5" D
> pulley. The GE motor is 1.5 HP at 1715 RPM. It has a ~4" D pulley. Now, I
> know that should get a 5" D pulley, but live in a small town, and darn it,
> the local hardware store just doesn't have a huge selection of pulleys with
> 7/8" bore... none, in fact...
>
> So, I'll go with what I have for now - knowing that the cutterhead speed
> will be a bit low. My question is that WITH a 5" pulley, will I only have
> an effective HP or Torque of 3/4 HP since I am doubling the output speed?
>
> I am also wondering if 1.5 HP may be a bit rich - the bearings in the
> jointer are okay and all... I don't use do face jointing of boards so I
> don't think I'd be putting that much of a load on it, but with the existing
> 1/2 HP I could easily (very easily) overload it edge jointing 6/4 oak.
>
> Final question - the motor data tag says it'll run 110/220, but I have *NO*
> idea how it is currently (no pun intended) wired, and have no manual for it.
> How can I tell how it's wired?
>
> Whatcha'll thimk?
>
> John Moorhead
>
>
--
Gerald Ross, Cochran, GA
To reply add the numerals "13" before the "at"
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On Thu, 19 Aug 2004 23:40:49 GMT, "John Moorhead"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>.... old craftsman 6" jointer ...... swap motors.... GE motor is 1.5 HP...
>I am also wondering if 1.5 HP may be a bit rich - the bearings in the
>jointer are okay and all... I don't use do face jointing of boards so I
>don't think I'd be putting that much of a load on it, but with the existing
>1/2 HP I could easily (very easily) overload it edge jointing 6/4 oak.
>John Moorhead
>
the bearings were sized by some engineer somewhere to handle the
forces that can be put through them by the 6" blades. if it's an old
enough craftsman that engineering was prolly ok. your new motor may or
may not be able to exceed that- it sounds like your old motor was way
undersized. but it doesn't matter if the motor is oversized- you still
can't put more force through the 6" blades than the bearings can take,
unless you start using the thing regularly to take full width 1/2"
deep cuts or something. I doubt you will be using it like that....
what you do need to worry about is belt tension and cutterhead speed.
bearings are rated for a max speed. exceeding it will greatly reduce
their service life. underrevving is no problem.
applying too much belt tension will also smoke your bearings, and the
bigger the motor the more tension needed to transmit full horsepower.
so don't overtighten the belt. you might even want to switch to
different type of belt- different belts slip at different tensions.
I'd adjust it as loose as possible and still not slip at the deepest
cut I'm likely to make, and will run without belt flutter.
if there is extra HP, it will simply be unused, which is really not a
problem in your case and with that machine. if this was a big machine
and in an industrial situation, the current draw of an oversize motor
would have financial repercussions, especially for a machine that is
run 7/24.
besides, I don't think one anna half is oversize for a six incher
annyhow.
Bridger
http://grainger.com for pulleys direct to your door.
"John Moorhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Folks -
>
> Lawdy! I am still futzing with my old craftsman 6" jointer and am going
to
> swap motors out for MORE POWER. The spare motor I had laying around is 1.5
> hp. It's an old GE unit, probably weighs 80# - capacitor start, ALL cast
> iron.
>
> Anyway, the original jointer motor is 1/2 hp at 3450 rpm and has a 2.5" D
> pulley. The GE motor is 1.5 HP at 1715 RPM. It has a ~4" D pulley. Now,
I
> know that should get a 5" D pulley, but live in a small town, and darn it,
> the local hardware store just doesn't have a huge selection of pulleys
with
> 7/8" bore... none, in fact...
>
> So, I'll go with what I have for now - knowing that the cutterhead speed
> will be a bit low. My question is that WITH a 5" pulley, will I only have
> an effective HP or Torque of 3/4 HP since I am doubling the output speed?
>
> I am also wondering if 1.5 HP may be a bit rich - the bearings in the
> jointer are okay and all... I don't use do face jointing of boards so I
> don't think I'd be putting that much of a load on it, but with the
existing
> 1/2 HP I could easily (very easily) overload it edge jointing 6/4 oak.
>
> Final question - the motor data tag says it'll run 110/220, but I have
*NO*
> idea how it is currently (no pun intended) wired, and have no manual for
it.
> How can I tell how it's wired?
>
> Whatcha'll thimk?
>
> John Moorhead
>
>