In article <[email protected]>, Jon Endres, PE
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Birdsmouth. Probably cut with a router bit - there's a company that makes
> them specifically for segmented and "coopered" style joints, although I
> can't remember who it is - maybe I've seen them in Woodcraft.
Lee Valley carries a couple of different ones.
djb
--
Okay, so this is my new sig line, eh?
"John Pilhoefer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone have any info on lathe or the cutting tool used
> in the following links?
>
> http://tinyurl.com/3d4m7
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2nbdw
>
> How about the type of joints used in the following links:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/253kj
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2jn23
>
> Thanks for any help that you all can give,
>
> John
The lathe looks very much like a basic, cheap chinese lathe sold by a number
of budget tool companies.
Usually 4-speeds.
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 50 woodworking product reviews online!
------------------------------------------------------------
Latest 5 Reviews:
- Veritas Power Tool Guide
- Ryobi 6" Grinder/Stand Combo
- Band Saw Handbook
- GMC R1200 1/2" Router
- LRH Magic Molder
- Triton Router Review Update!
------------------------------------------------------------
"John Pilhoefer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does anyone have any info on lathe or the cutting tool used
> in the following links?
>
> http://tinyurl.com/3d4m7
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2nbdw
Tool used was most likely a gouge or skew, depends on the user. I'd say
gouge. As for the lathe, that tag looks suspiciously like "Central
Machinery"; i.e. Harbor Freight cheapo lathe. Avoid.
>
> How about the type of joints used in the following links:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/253kj
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2jn23
Birdsmouth. Probably cut with a router bit - there's a company that makes
them specifically for segmented and "coopered" style joints, although I
can't remember who it is - maybe I've seen them in Woodcraft.
> Thanks for any help that you all can give,
>
> John
>
>
Thanks for all the great info, frank. Much appreciated.
John
"Frank McVey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Saweyes is right - these lathes are badged and marketed in the UK by
people
> like Clarke and Machine Mart. I picked one up at an auction a number of
> years ago, reckoning that at least it would do for turning doorknobs etc.
> However it is just plain nasty, and has no saving graces at all, other
than
> its cheapness. The beds are flimsy square light-gauge steel tube, the
> headstock is pressed steel and has only one bearing, the toorest
adjustments
> use single-start bolts, so the adjusting handles have to spin through 360
> deg, so they often foul the headstock/tailstock. The tool rest height
> adjustment uses a radio-type knob, which makes it almost impossible to
> tighten it enough to secure the toolrest unless you have fingers like
> mole-grips. I couldn't get rid of it quickly enough, and would earnestly
> advise you to have nothing to do with it - you'll either outgrow it or
> become terminally frustrated with it within a week.
>
> As for the tool, I can't see one in the pictures, only the toolrest, so I
> assume that the turner would have used either a scraper or a roughing
gouge
> on the outside and a scraper or a bowl gouge on the inside.
>
> The joints used in the coopered work are called bird-mouth joints (in UK,
at
> least). They're mechanically stronger than plain butt joints and also
> increase strength by giving a larger gluing area.
>
> HTH
>
> Frank
>
>
> "SawEyes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "John Pilhoefer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > Does anyone have any info on lathe or the cutting tool used
> > > in the following links?
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/3d4m7
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/2nbdw
> > >
> > > How about the type of joints used in the following links:
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/253kj
> > >
> > > http://tinyurl.com/2jn23
> > >
> > > Thanks for any help that you all can give,
> > >
> > > John
> >
> > The lathe looks very much like a basic, cheap chinese lathe sold by a
> number
> > of budget tool companies.
> > Usually 4-speeds.
> >
> > --
> > Regards,
> >
> > Dean Bielanowski
> > Editor,
> > Online Tool Reviews
> > http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
> > Over 50 woodworking product reviews online!
> > ------------------------------------------------------------
> > Latest 5 Reviews:
> > - Veritas Power Tool Guide
> > - Ryobi 6" Grinder/Stand Combo
> > - Band Saw Handbook
> > - GMC R1200 1/2" Router
> > - LRH Magic Molder
> > - Triton Router Review Update!
> > ------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.593 / Virus Database: 376 - Release Date: 20/02/2004
>
>
Saweyes is right - these lathes are badged and marketed in the UK by people
like Clarke and Machine Mart. I picked one up at an auction a number of
years ago, reckoning that at least it would do for turning doorknobs etc.
However it is just plain nasty, and has no saving graces at all, other than
its cheapness. The beds are flimsy square light-gauge steel tube, the
headstock is pressed steel and has only one bearing, the toorest adjustments
use single-start bolts, so the adjusting handles have to spin through 360
deg, so they often foul the headstock/tailstock. The tool rest height
adjustment uses a radio-type knob, which makes it almost impossible to
tighten it enough to secure the toolrest unless you have fingers like
mole-grips. I couldn't get rid of it quickly enough, and would earnestly
advise you to have nothing to do with it - you'll either outgrow it or
become terminally frustrated with it within a week.
As for the tool, I can't see one in the pictures, only the toolrest, so I
assume that the turner would have used either a scraper or a roughing gouge
on the outside and a scraper or a bowl gouge on the inside.
The joints used in the coopered work are called bird-mouth joints (in UK, at
least). They're mechanically stronger than plain butt joints and also
increase strength by giving a larger gluing area.
HTH
Frank
"SawEyes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "John Pilhoefer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Does anyone have any info on lathe or the cutting tool used
> > in the following links?
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/3d4m7
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/2nbdw
> >
> > How about the type of joints used in the following links:
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/253kj
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/2jn23
> >
> > Thanks for any help that you all can give,
> >
> > John
>
> The lathe looks very much like a basic, cheap chinese lathe sold by a
number
> of budget tool companies.
> Usually 4-speeds.
>
> --
> Regards,
>
> Dean Bielanowski
> Editor,
> Online Tool Reviews
> http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
> Over 50 woodworking product reviews online!
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Latest 5 Reviews:
> - Veritas Power Tool Guide
> - Ryobi 6" Grinder/Stand Combo
> - Band Saw Handbook
> - GMC R1200 1/2" Router
> - LRH Magic Molder
> - Triton Router Review Update!
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.593 / Virus Database: 376 - Release Date: 20/02/2004