Exterior Windows

In article <[email protected]>, "Phil-in-MI" <NO Spam & [email protected]> wrote:
>For my Garage, I need to replace a couple of windows.
>
>The rot has fully destroyed the windows in my detached garage,

How'd that happen?

>and the City
>is on a Fix-It-Up campaign. I cannot afford to have the windows custom
>made, so I thought I might try to make the windows myself. After all, it
>just my backyard garage, and might be a good learning project. Thus my
>questions:
>
>1 - Windows, which side is exposed to the weather: the glass and glazer's
>compound, or the wood molding with the glazer's points and compound to the
>inside?

Compound to the outside.
>
> 2 - For windows that are really just for light and are not functional, is
>there still any reason for the design to have the styles mortised into the
>rails? Since I am not an expert, I would rather make the windows more water
>damage resistant by having the styles run from top to bottom, and the rails
>mortised into the styles. I realize that if these were counter-balanced
>functional windows, the bottom rail would need to go completely left to
>right. But these are not functional windows.

Doesn't really matter. The prime determinants of how well a wooden window, or
indeed any wooden outdoor article, resists water damage are:
1) the natural rot resistance of the wood
2) a good paint job
3) some place for water to drain away to, so the wood isn't continually wet.

> 3 - The previous window design had a 2x6 across the bottom as the sill.
>Then a 1x3 from the weather front of the sill back to the window. The
>window was back behind this 1x3, so the bottom 3/4 inch was covered by this
>1x3. The bottom the window had water damage; which I think was because
>water would run down the window and get trapped between the window and this
>decorative piece 1x3. That 1x3 adds a lot to the overall look of the
>window, and I would rather keep it. Any suggestions on a better design?

The design is fine -- the problem is that there should have been a bead of
caulk to keep water out of that joint.

>Add a another 1x3 behind the 1st? This would have the window's bottom
>sitting on this new piece of wood, and the bottom edge exposed to the
>weather.

Not necessary. Paint and caulk. That's all.

>4 - Is there anything that needs to be done to the 2x6 sill to help rain
>water drain off the sill? Like route a 1/8 inch deep groove on the
>underside so the water will drop off rather than bead to the garage wall?

Best if it's pitched slightly, so that water drains away from the building
instead of just sitting there. And yes, the groove on the bottom is a good
idea, for exactly the reason you cited.
>
>Thanks for the replies.
>
>Phil
>
>
>
>

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.