I bought a truck load of Penn cherry for my kitchen cabinets. The
boards are 4/4 rough, primary 10' long 5-10" wide. What's the best way
to plan them? I have Delta 13" benchtop finishing planner and 6"
stationary jointer. I do not see how I can manage run board through
jointer as they are long and heavy. Is there way to plan boards without
running them through jointer?
"Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I bought a truck load of Penn cherry for my kitchen cabinets. The
> boards are 4/4 rough, primary 10' long 5-10" wide. What's the best way
> to plan them? I have Delta 13" benchtop finishing planner and 6"
> stationary jointer. I do not see how I can manage run board through
> jointer as they are long and heavy. Is there way to plan boards without
> running them through jointer?
>
For many years I have simply run the rough stock through the planer flipping
the board each time. This works if the boards are straight and flat.
Or you can rip the boards to fit the jointer and reglue them.
(for Tom and Dave)
Glad you liked it. I build one in an afternoon and it works great. BTW,
I did a shortcut by using half of a bi-fold door for the sled
foundation. It's essentially a torsion box, so it's lighter than Rust's
model, and it's the perfect size already (12" x 8'). In addition, they
can be had for pennies at any salvage mart (I got mine for free at a
Habitat ReSale store, they were throwing them away).
I combine Rust's jig with longer infeed/outfeed tables to eliminate
snipe, and the jointer's good to go.
H
I am building cabinets in my own workshop and assembling them right in
kitchen. Instead of building modular individual cabinets I build entire
side 8' long consisting of several cabinets. The cabinets are divided
by 3/4" plywood sides. Bottom and top of cabinets are also single 3/4"
8' long plywood panels dadoed to accept vertical sides. Back is 1/2"
also single plywood panel. I find this approach allows me building the
whole kitchen side of cabinets more solid all leveled. First I assemble
case using screws. When everything is built and trimmed, I will
disassemble all panels, finish with polyurethane and then glue and
screw again. Having said this I would like to build one single face
frame for all cabinets. It means I need horizontal frame boards be 8'
long. Face frame is 1 1/2" wide.
In article <[email protected]>,
hylourgos <[email protected]> wrote:
> Here's a nice sled:
> http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt095.asp
>
> H
That's beautiful! Thanks for the link.
djb
--
~ Stay Calm... Be Brave... Wait for the Signs ~
------------------------------------------------------
One site: <http://www.balderstone.ca>
The other site, with ww links<http://www.woodenwabbits.com>
"Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I bought a truck load of Penn cherry for my kitchen cabinets. The
> boards are 4/4 rough, primary 10' long 5-10" wide. What's the best way
> to plan them? I have Delta 13" benchtop finishing planner and 6"
> stationary jointer. I do not see how I can manage run board through
> jointer as they are long and heavy. Is there way to plan boards without
> running them through jointer?
>
You can make a jig that allows a router to substitute for a jointer. This
will become very tedious in a hurry.
When you are running it through the planer, the down face should be flat
which is usually done on a jointer. If it isn't flat, bad things can
happen.
Jim
"rickluce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can you rough size them first? Then John Paul Jones them? I would rip
> them to rough size on my band saw, Cross cut to rough size, Face Joint,
> Face plane, Edge Joint then Rip. I'm of course assuming that your
> maching them down to 2 inch and ~ 3 inch stock for face frames and door
> rail and styles.
>
> Don
And for the bandsaw challenged, a circular saw, if saw, handsaw etc. etc.
will allow you to crosscut them to rough length... allow a couple of inches
on each end for snipe or mis-measurement.
Now what Don said. Sorta. The order of operations is OK, but different
strokes for different folks.
I've been known to face joint, use that face referenced against the jointer
fence to joint one edge square to the face (or at an angle as needed).
One can then either plane them first and then rip (jointed edge against the
fence). Or if the mood strikes, rip them the same way then plane them to
final thickness, (when you do all this, try to take relatively equal amounts
from each face... failure to do so could aggravate the natural of the wood.
This in turn can result in your nicely milled stock winding up with a cup,
bow, twist or any permutations thereof! DAMHIKT!
It is also best IMHO, to use the pieces (assemble) as soon as possible after
milling.
YMMV,
Tom
Maker of Fine Sawdust and Thin Shavings
"Thomas Bunetta" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Now what Don said. Sorta. The order of operations is OK, but different
> strokes for different folks.
>
> I've been known to face joint, use that face referenced against the
> jointer fence to joint one edge square to the face (or at an angle as
> needed).
>
I've never done that. Figured since a straight edge is unimportant for the
surface planing part, I can leave it until later.
Or is there some advantage that I've missed?
"George" <George@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Thomas Bunetta" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Now what Don said. Sorta. The order of operations is OK, but different
>> strokes for different folks.
>>
>> I've been known to face joint, use that face referenced against the
>> jointer fence to joint one edge square to the face (or at an angle as
>> needed).
>>
>
> I've never done that. Figured since a straight edge is unimportant for
> the surface planing part, I can leave it until later.
>
> Or is there some advantage that I've missed?
As stated, a matter of personal preference... for me, I'm already at the
jointer, one edge will need to be straight and square (usually) for the
ripping operation that will follow soon anyway.
Tom
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well maybe practice makes perfect. I have been doing it this way on good
> boards for 16+ years.
>
Me too, and definitely more than 16.
In article <[email protected]>,
Sasha <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought a truck load of Penn cherry for my kitchen cabinets. The
>boards are 4/4 rough, primary 10' long 5-10" wide. What's the best way
>to plan them? I have Delta 13" benchtop finishing planner and 6"
>stationary jointer. I do not see how I can manage run board through
>jointer as they are long and heavy. Is there way to plan boards without
>running them through jointer?
>
Is there any reason you'd need many boards much longer than 3-4 feet
or so for cabinets? Perhaps you could rough cut them to lenght before
jointing, you wood probably have greater usable thickness by doing so
also.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
The video shows a neat, elegant solution. Who'd have thought of bungee
cords?
Good find!
On 23 Aug 2005 13:40:07 -0700, "hylourgos" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Here's a nice sled:
>http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt095.asp
>
>H
On 23 Aug 2005 13:02:51 -0700, "Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought a truck load of Penn cherry for my kitchen cabinets. The
>boards are 4/4 rough, primary 10' long 5-10" wide. What's the best way
>to plan them? I have Delta 13" benchtop finishing planner and 6"
>stationary jointer. I do not see how I can manage run board through
>jointer as they are long and heavy. Is there way to plan boards without
>running them through jointer?
I prefer to try to rip any boards I am going to glue up to no more
than four inches or so wide, then they will fit on the jointer then
planer and clean up quicker. I used to rough plane full width first
and lost a lot of wood that would not clean up flat. I also like to
cut to rough length so that I have shorter boards to work on the
jointer. Some waste here due to snipe allowance but a lot easier to
work.
This despite the fact I have a good jointer( DJ-15) and a good planer
(DC380).
Sasha wrote:
> I bought a truck load of Penn cherry for my kitchen cabinets. The
> boards are 4/4 rough, primary 10' long 5-10" wide. What's the best way
> to plan them? I have Delta 13" benchtop finishing planner and 6"
> stationary jointer. I do not see how I can manage run board through
> jointer as they are long and heavy. Is there way to plan boards
> without running them through jointer?
For you, the best way would have been to have the supplier surface at
least one side.
Too late to do that now but you could haul them off to a local place and
have them done. Cost maybe $0.10 /bd.ft. Alternatively, rough cut them
to size, surface one side with your joiner then use the thickness
planer.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Thomas Bunetta wrote:
> "rickluce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Can you rough size them first? Then John Paul Jones them? I would rip
>>them to rough size on my band saw, Cross cut to rough size, Face Joint,
>>Face plane, Edge Joint then Rip. I'm of course assuming that your
>>maching them down to 2 inch and ~ 3 inch stock for face frames and door
>>rail and styles.
>>
>>Don
>
>
>
> And for the bandsaw challenged, a circular saw, if saw, handsaw etc. etc.
> will allow you to crosscut them to rough length... allow a couple of inches
> on each end for snipe or mis-measurement.
>
> Now what Don said. Sorta. The order of operations is OK, but different
> strokes for different folks.
>
> I've been known to face joint, use that face referenced against the jointer
> fence to joint one edge square to the face (or at an angle as needed).
>
> One can then either plane them first and then rip (jointed edge against the
> fence). Or if the mood strikes, rip them the same way then plane them to
> final thickness, (when you do all this, try to take relatively equal amounts
> from each face... failure to do so could aggravate the natural of the wood.
>
> This in turn can result in your nicely milled stock winding up with a cup,
> bow, twist or any permutations thereof! DAMHIKT!
>
> It is also best IMHO, to use the pieces (assemble) as soon as possible after
> milling.
>
> YMMV,
> Tom
> Maker of Fine Sawdust and Thin Shavings
>
>
usually you need to add at least 5" or more to remove snipe. there's
more than 2" of snipe from your typical planer, IF it snipes. best bet
is to measure the amount of snipe at each end and add length as necessary.
Dave
Dave
> For many years I have simply run the rough stock through the planer
> flipping the board each time. This works if the boards are straight and
> flat.
I also do that, and it is usually good enough, but it is never really flat.
That shows up on glue-ups, and especially on dovetails. They simply don't
fit; while if you face joint them they are perfect.
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> For many years I have simply run the rough stock through the planer
>> flipping the board each time. This works if the boards are straight and
>> flat.
>
>
> I also do that, and it is usually good enough, but it is never really
> flat. That shows up on glue-ups, and especially on dovetails. They simply
> don't fit; while if you face joint them they are perfect.
Well maybe practice makes perfect. I have been doing it this way on good
boards for 16+ years.