Hello,
I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE to use
that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric, good for
you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and the kerfs are
in imperial)....
It is the HP33S.
why is it so good? it has a way of working with fractions which makes
working with inches and fractions of super easy and cool!
let me give you some example:
- You can tell the calculator to only work with 1/16. ie, every number will
be displayed as X Y/16 (with Y<16) (you can replace 16 by any number < 4096)
- You can tell the calculator to only work with fractions which are a
divider of a number. for example, only with fractions wich are a divider of
16, in this case, any number will be displayed as X Y/Z where Y<Z and Z is
either 16, 8, 4, 2 or 1.
but as you know, in most cases, number are not exactly a fractions of 1/16
(or other fraction), so how does the calculator display 1.2 for example in
fractions of 1/16?
well, it displays 1 3/16 and a UP ARROW meaning that the number is a litle
bit MORE than 1 3/16, but is closer to 1 3/16 than 1 1/4!!! (of course, a
down arrow means the inverse)...
isn't that cool!!!!
the last great thing is the way to enter a fractional number such as 1 3/16
you type 1 . 3 . 16 (use the decimal . twice) to separate the 3 parts of the
number! it is so easy!!!!
The calcualtor has of course lots of other features, but when I put 2+2
together and realized the power of this function in woodworking, I was
thrilled!!
link is at: http://www.hp.com/calculators/scientific/33s/
regards, cyrille
PS: I do work for HP (as an engineer), so my post can be concidered as
biaised, however, you have to admit that this is a great function!
cyrille de br=E9bisson wrote:
> Hello,
>
> >> I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you
HAVE to
> >> use that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use
metric,
> >> good for you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools
and the
> >> kerfs are in imperial)....
> >
> > Then using metric would be too smart would it?
>
> Yep, being french, I agree, metric is SO much better..
What, you have something against binary fractions?
> problem is that EVERY BLODDY thing in the US is imperial, and if you
want to
> use metric, you still HAVE to use imperial also and do conversions in
every
> direction.
To be accurate, merkins use American customary units. Many of these
are the ame as Imperial units, but some are different (like the
gallon).
And let's not forget that Imperial units are based on avoidupois, gee,
what language is that?
.=2E.
>
> as a result, except if you imported your metric tools, you are
screwed in
> this imperialist country with an imperialist system that is realy an
> imperial pain in the rear end :-)
>
Het, thanks to Alexander Hamilton we at least have metric money
despite heated opposition from Aaron Burr. As you may know, when
Hamilton was promoting metric weights and measures that was just
too much for Burr so he took Hamilton out and shot him...
--=20
FF
Leon wrote:
> "cyrille de br=E9bisson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hello,
> >
> > I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE
to use
> > that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric,
good for
> > you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and the
kerfs are
> > in imperial)....
> >
>
> Then using metric would be too smart would it?
I would love to switch to metric, but since every bit and scale that I
own (including on large machines) is imperial, it would be a tough
switch. It addition, I can visualize the length of an imperial
measurement MUCH better than a metric length. I know how much 5" is,
but to look at a piece of wood and say "12 cm", I can't do it without
looking at it in inches and mutiplying it by 2.54. At that point, I'm
better off with imperial.
"cyrille de brébisson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE to use
> that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric, good for
> you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and the kerfs are
> in imperial)....
>
Then using metric would be too smart would it?
> It is the HP33S.
Snip
Um Calculated Industries has been marketing a fraction calculator for 15 +
years. You can get them for about $20 at most any home center.
Tue, Feb 1, 2005, 3:45pm (EST+5) [email protected]
(cyrille=A0de=A0br=E9bisson) burbled:
Hello,
I found the best calculator for woodworking <snip>
Amazing. Me too. I call it paper, pencil, brain.
JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli
On Tuesday 01 Feb 2005 10:46 pm, Ozmonkey sawdust scribbled:
> On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 13:50:10 +0000, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
>
>> But it doesn't give you the neat gnat's ass/RCH (poil de cul,
>> Cyrille) direction indicator the HP calculator has.
>
> Sure it can. Next cell looks at the remainder, and does an ifthen to
> display up- or down-arrow. I do that alla time. Same sorta trick for
> degrees, min, sec, which xl and oo munge up if left unsupervised.
Cool! I hadn't though of that. But then I hadn't thought of the
indicator at all until Cyrille described it. Thanks.
--
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
Hello,
>> I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE to
>> use that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric,
>> good for you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and the
>> kerfs are in imperial)....
>
> Then using metric would be too smart would it?
Yep, being french, I agree, metric is SO much better..
problem is that EVERY BLODDY thing in the US is imperial, and if you want to
use metric, you still HAVE to use imperial also and do conversions in every
direction.
In addition, all mesuring stuff have at least imperial, and sometimes
metric. and most of the time imperial on both sides (and having mesurement
on both sides is quite convinient)...
as a result, except if you imported your metric tools, you are screwed in
this imperialist country with an imperialist system that is realy an
imperial pain in the rear end :-)
cyrille
On Tuesday 01 Feb 2005 7:01 pm, Stephen M scribbled:
> A pencil does it for me, but when I have enough calculations to
> warrant it:
>
> Excel will do fractions.
>
> Format | cells | Select the number tab | Fraction | As sixteenths (or
> your favorite denominator)
For those of us who still use older versions of Excel (I still use
Office 97, no point in springing for the newer stuff, AFAIAC) or OO.org
Calc, you can get the same result by rounding to the nearest 16th,
32nd, 64th, etc.. The formula I use is:
=ROUND(x*32,0)/32
Where "x" is your number expressed as a decimal (or from another cell)
So you multiply the original measurment by 32 (or 16, or 64 or 128),
round it off and then divide by 32 (or 16, or 64 or 128). Then you use
the Fraction format.
But it doesn't give you the neat gnat's ass/RCH (poil de cul,
Cyrille) direction indicator the HP calculator has.
--
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
"B a r r y" wrote in message
> [email protected] AKA, Fred The Red Shirt wrote:
>
> > To be accurate, merkins use American customary units. Many of these
> > are the ame as Imperial units, but some are different (like the
> > gallon).
>
>
> I prefer skitches, skootches, hairs, gnats asses, and thumbs. All can
> be fat or thin.
You left out "ball park", which is often all you need.
And that's a "scootch" ... that, plus an "rch", will generally get you
there.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
[email protected] (J T) wrote in news:22060-41FFA6DC-325@storefull-
3151.bay.webtv.net:
> Tue, Feb 1, 2005, 3:45pm (EST+5) [email protected]
> (cyrille de brébisson) burbled:
> Hello,
> I found the best calculator for woodworking <snip>
>
> Amazing. Me too. I call it paper, pencil, brain.
>
Ditto that. Nothing wrong with a pencil on a scrap of wood.
A pencil makes you slow down and think about what you're trying to do.
Wed, Feb 2, 2005, 6:00am (EST+5) [email protected]
(Nate=A0Perkins) says:
Ditto that. Nothing wrong with a pencil on a scrap of wood.
A pencil makes you slow down and think about what you're trying to do.
Yup. I use those inexpensive plastic Pentel type mechanical
pencils. Get 5 or 6 for just $1-2. Great, no sharpening, line always
the same size.
I've heard they wear out real fast, but I found out they carry spare
leads, and when they stop working, just put in one of the spares, and it
works again.
JOAT
The first method of estimating the intelligence of a ruler is to look at
the men he has around him.
- Niccolo Machiavelli
[email protected] (J T) wrote in news:17318-4201643F-100@storefull-
3158.bay.webtv.net:
> Wed, Feb 2, 2005, 6:00am (EST+5) [email protected]
> (Nate Perkins) says:
> Ditto that. Nothing wrong with a pencil on a scrap of wood.
> A pencil makes you slow down and think about what you're trying to do.
>
> Yup. I use those inexpensive plastic Pentel type mechanical
> pencils. Get 5 or 6 for just $1-2. Great, no sharpening, line always
> the same size.
I use the Cadillac version. I think they cost $2 apiece.
> I've heard they wear out real fast, but I found out they carry spare
> leads, and when they stop working, just put in one of the spares, and it
> works again.
Yep.
[email protected] wrote:
> To be accurate, merkins use American customary units. Many of these
> are the ame as Imperial units, but some are different (like the
> gallon).
I prefer skitches, skootches, hairs, gnats asses, and thumbs. All can
be fat or thin.
Barry
On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 15:45:40 GMT, "cyrille de brébisson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello,
>
>I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE to use
>that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric, good for
>you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and the kerfs are
>in imperial)....
>
>It is the HP33S.
>
>why is it so good? it has a way of working with fractions which makes
>working with inches and fractions of super easy and cool!
>
>let me give you some example:
>
>- You can tell the calculator to only work with 1/16. ie, every number will
>be displayed as X Y/16 (with Y<16) (you can replace 16 by any number < 4096)
>- You can tell the calculator to only work with fractions which are a
>divider of a number. for example, only with fractions wich are a divider of
>16, in this case, any number will be displayed as X Y/Z where Y<Z and Z is
>either 16, 8, 4, 2 or 1.
>
>but as you know, in most cases, number are not exactly a fractions of 1/16
>(or other fraction), so how does the calculator display 1.2 for example in
>fractions of 1/16?
>well, it displays 1 3/16 and a UP ARROW meaning that the number is a litle
>bit MORE than 1 3/16, but is closer to 1 3/16 than 1 1/4!!! (of course, a
>down arrow means the inverse)...
>isn't that cool!!!!
>
>the last great thing is the way to enter a fractional number such as 1 3/16
>you type 1 . 3 . 16 (use the decimal . twice) to separate the 3 parts of the
>number! it is so easy!!!!
>
>The calcualtor has of course lots of other features, but when I put 2+2
>together and realized the power of this function in woodworking, I was
>thrilled!!
>
>link is at: http://www.hp.com/calculators/scientific/33s/
>
>regards, cyrille
>
>PS: I do work for HP (as an engineer), so my post can be concidered as
>biaised, however, you have to admit that this is a great function!
>
I used the Calculated Industries Construction Master series of
handhelds for years and found them to be very good.
I currently use their Pro Desktop Printer model, which has nice fat
keys and letters, which are easier on my challenged peepers.
One of its best features is the ability to work in mixed units of
measurement transparently.
We often buy vinyl film, sold in linear meters, which has a useful net
width that we measure in inches, and we need the final number in
square feet.
15 LM x 53.2 INCHES = 20.2692 SQUARE METERS / CONVERT TO FEET / =
218.1759 SQUARE FEET.
It is also the case that I will need to know the weight of this much
vinyl, for shipping cost estimation purposes.
The unit will allow me to set and maintain constants, so that I don't
need to remember or look up conversion factors.
It is also handy for the conversion of decimal units to fractions.
Our CAD people work in decimals, because it is more accurate than
working in fractions but it is often useful to communicate these
measurements to others in fractions.
I believe the fractions can be set down to 1/64 increments on this
model.
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> You left out "ball park", which is often all you need.
>
And also the ..... load and the ....load, and the ......load.
A pencil does it for me, but when I have enough calculations to warrant it:
Excel will do fractions.
Format | cells | Select the number tab | Fraction | As sixteenths (or your
favorite denominator)
-Steve
"cyrille de brébisson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE to use
> that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric, good for
> you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and the kerfs are
> in imperial)....
>
> It is the HP33S.
>
> why is it so good? it has a way of working with fractions which makes
> working with inches and fractions of super easy and cool!
>
> let me give you some example:
>
> - You can tell the calculator to only work with 1/16. ie, every number
will
> be displayed as X Y/16 (with Y<16) (you can replace 16 by any number <
4096)
> - You can tell the calculator to only work with fractions which are a
> divider of a number. for example, only with fractions wich are a divider
of
> 16, in this case, any number will be displayed as X Y/Z where Y<Z and Z is
> either 16, 8, 4, 2 or 1.
>
> but as you know, in most cases, number are not exactly a fractions of 1/16
> (or other fraction), so how does the calculator display 1.2 for example in
> fractions of 1/16?
> well, it displays 1 3/16 and a UP ARROW meaning that the number is a litle
> bit MORE than 1 3/16, but is closer to 1 3/16 than 1 1/4!!! (of course, a
> down arrow means the inverse)...
> isn't that cool!!!!
>
> the last great thing is the way to enter a fractional number such as 1
3/16
> you type 1 . 3 . 16 (use the decimal . twice) to separate the 3 parts of
the
> number! it is so easy!!!!
>
> The calcualtor has of course lots of other features, but when I put 2+2
> together and realized the power of this function in woodworking, I was
> thrilled!!
>
> link is at: http://www.hp.com/calculators/scientific/33s/
>
> regards, cyrille
>
> PS: I do work for HP (as an engineer), so my post can be concidered as
> biaised, however, you have to admit that this is a great function!
>
>
cyrille de brébisson wrote:
> Hello,
>
>>> I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE to
>>> use that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric,
>>> good for you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and
>>> the kerfs are in imperial)....
>>
>> Then using metric would be too smart would it?
>
> Yep, being french, I agree, metric is SO much better..
> problem is that EVERY BLODDY thing in the US is imperial, and if you want
> to use metric, you still HAVE to use imperial also and do conversions in
> every direction.
> In addition, all mesuring stuff have at least imperial, and sometimes
> metric. and most of the time imperial on both sides (and having mesurement
> on both sides is quite convinient)...
>
> as a result, except if you imported your metric tools, you are screwed in
> this imperialist country with an imperialist system that is realy an
> imperial pain in the rear end :-)
FWIW, when I was in junior high or high school or whenever they introducted
the metric system, the teachers quite confidently (beware of public school
teachers who say things confidently) told us that engineers never did
conversions, they just worked in one system or the other. So what
happened? First engineering job I had involved a new product for a
European customer, with all our test data and so on that we had to use to
do the design in US Customary. Engineers don't do conversions. Yeah,
right. Sure we don't.
> cyrille
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Leon wrote:
>
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>> You left out "ball park", which is often all you need.
>>
>
>
> And also the ..... load and the ....load, and the ......load.
And the Mighty ....load, which Spider Robinson defines as 2.5 ....loads.
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 20:00:34 GMT, B a r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Swingman wrote:
>> "B a r r y" wrote in message
>
>> You left out "ball park", which is often all you need.
>>
>
>
>Excellent point. I also left out a "yea big".
>
>Maybe Rob Lee can market a calculator that will add a skitch, a hair,
>and two gnat's asses.
>
I worked for a guy putting Tudor style boards on a house who would yell down
measurements for me to cut
"Make that just a c*nt hair short of 54 inches"
We were surrounded by people, kids, etc.
It was embarrassing.
Will <[email protected]> wrote:
>My personal experience is that I make a lot fewer errors with the metric
>system. If a measuring device cannot do metric - I won't buy it now.
>(taste isn't disputable.)
Feh. Taste is extemely disputable. But are you cool enough to coolly
support your arguments? That interests me.
>I bought a calculator that does fractions - that eases it a bit -- but
>it is too easy to have a momentary lapse and mess up when converting
>everything into a common base. I really got the calculator because it
>does simultaneous equations - but I really don't need that too often for
>woodworking...
>
>Now having said that... The simplest way with fractions is to convert
>everything into the same base - 16th's 32'nds 64th's as appropriate and
>do the arithmetic that way. That way you can do it quickly in your head
>or with paper scraps.
>
>Much of this calculation though is due to the fact that most plans are
>badly laid out -- not to drafting or engineering standards. (This is
>understandable since most of use are "hobbyists" lovers of the art - not
>drafting technicians or engineers.) So the easiest thing to do is review
>all the plans - establish a single common reference baseline and related
>points for measurements and pencil in all the variations and
>measurements before starting. Anytime I don't do this it's good for a
>few laughs or a minor wood cutting tragedy.
I want to work with fractions because I want to appeal to the "old
school Americans" that relate to their fathers (read "WW2 vets") that
have now borrowed their way into financial security. Plus, get to
work with w00d. crazeeworld.
>A related note: Beware of plans that were "drawn" by an artist. I did a
>couple of "simple" projects before Christmas. Only to discover that an
>"artist" had "drawn" the plans -- they were what he thought he saw.
>Unfortunately the pieces I traced all depended on meeting along a common
>line of reference... When I reviewed the accompanying photos and
>compared them to the Plans -- I mean "drawings disguised as plans"
>actually -- there was clearly only a cursory relationship. I was in a
>hurry - had never used any of his "plans" before and since the items
>were "so simple" - I just dived in. Several hours of corrections later I
>looked back... I won't even mention the name of the guy who authors all
>those bandsaw books - but he knows who he is. Since that accident I have
>been a lot more critical of the plans in my woodworking library and
>discovered many errors - and corrected them in case I use the idea in
>the future. Since I change dimensions and techniques in almost every
>project I had not caught many of these errors before. But when I
>reviewed everything I had built, sources of confusion quickly became
>obvious since I was now looking for them.
>
>One other note. Not everyone realizes that calculators may be precise -
>but not always accurate. If you do a lot of "small angle" taper cuts -
>say less than 10 degrees, the calculator may or may not switch to a
>better algorithm for working out the sin, cos tan and inverses. Some of
>the formulae used may be quite inaccurate at very low degree offsets -
>so if you work out the Cosine or Sine from rise, run and Hypotenuse or
>the tangent from rise and run lengths - and then convert to degrees so
>you can set a saw or a taper gauge - you may get a surprise at fitting
>time. The better calculators now have very accurate tables embedded and
>interpolate to get "in between values" -- all thanks to shrinking chip
>sizes.
>
>Ok Cyrille - you got your plug - I got my rant - Good Deal! And HP does
>make great stuff - use lots.
>
>Leon wrote:
>> "cyrille de brébisson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Hello,
>>>
>>>I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE to use
>>>that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric, good for
>>>you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and the kerfs are
>>>in imperial)....
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then using metric would be too smart would it?
>>
>>
>>
>>>It is the HP33S.
>>
>>
>> Snip
>>
>> Um Calculated Industries has been marketing a fraction calculator for 15 +
>> years. You can get them for about $20 at most any home center.
>>
>>
"cyrille de brébisson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello,
>
> Yep, being french, I agree, metric is SO much better..
> problem is that EVERY BLODDY thing in the US is imperial, and if you want
> to use metric, you still HAVE to use imperial also and do conversions in
> every direction.
> In addition, all mesuring stuff have at least imperial, and sometimes
> metric. and most of the time imperial on both sides (and having mesurement
> on both sides is quite convinient)...
>
> as a result, except if you imported your metric tools, you are screwed in
> this imperialist country with an imperialist system that is realy an
> imperial pain in the rear end :-)
I guess what it boils down to is that there are those still smart enough to
use the Imperial system and there is the Metric system for the rest.
On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 20:18:24 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I guess what it boils down to is that there are those still smart enough to
>use the Imperial system and there is the Metric system for the rest.
>
I like it that its name is "Imperial", like the margarine.
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)
On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 12:33:28 -0800, Gino <[email protected]> wrote:
>I worked for a guy putting Tudor style boards on a house who would yell down
>measurements for me to cut
> "Make that just a c*nt hair short of 54 inches"
>We were surrounded by people, kids, etc.
>It was embarrassing.
It's an acronymic form of: Common Units in Neander Terms.
Of course, some guys use: Common Units in Normite Terms - but these
might be metric.
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)
My personal experience is that I make a lot fewer errors with the metric
system. If a measuring device cannot do metric - I won't buy it now.
(taste isn't disputable.)
I bought a calculator that does fractions - that eases it a bit -- but
it is too easy to have a momentary lapse and mess up when converting
everything into a common base. I really got the calculator because it
does simultaneous equations - but I really don't need that too often for
woodworking...
Now having said that... The simplest way with fractions is to convert
everything into the same base - 16th's 32'nds 64th's as appropriate and
do the arithmetic that way. That way you can do it quickly in your head
or with paper scraps.
Much of this calculation though is due to the fact that most plans are
badly laid out -- not to drafting or engineering standards. (This is
understandable since most of use are "hobbyists" lovers of the art - not
drafting technicians or engineers.) So the easiest thing to do is review
all the plans - establish a single common reference baseline and related
points for measurements and pencil in all the variations and
measurements before starting. Anytime I don't do this it's good for a
few laughs or a minor wood cutting tragedy.
A related note: Beware of plans that were "drawn" by an artist. I did a
couple of "simple" projects before Christmas. Only to discover that an
"artist" had "drawn" the plans -- they were what he thought he saw.
Unfortunately the pieces I traced all depended on meeting along a common
line of reference... When I reviewed the accompanying photos and
compared them to the Plans -- I mean "drawings disguised as plans"
actually -- there was clearly only a cursory relationship. I was in a
hurry - had never used any of his "plans" before and since the items
were "so simple" - I just dived in. Several hours of corrections later I
looked back... I won't even mention the name of the guy who authors all
those bandsaw books - but he knows who he is. Since that accident I have
been a lot more critical of the plans in my woodworking library and
discovered many errors - and corrected them in case I use the idea in
the future. Since I change dimensions and techniques in almost every
project I had not caught many of these errors before. But when I
reviewed everything I had built, sources of confusion quickly became
obvious since I was now looking for them.
One other note. Not everyone realizes that calculators may be precise -
but not always accurate. If you do a lot of "small angle" taper cuts -
say less than 10 degrees, the calculator may or may not switch to a
better algorithm for working out the sin, cos tan and inverses. Some of
the formulae used may be quite inaccurate at very low degree offsets -
so if you work out the Cosine or Sine from rise, run and Hypotenuse or
the tangent from rise and run lengths - and then convert to degrees so
you can set a saw or a taper gauge - you may get a surprise at fitting
time. The better calculators now have very accurate tables embedded and
interpolate to get "in between values" -- all thanks to shrinking chip
sizes.
Ok Cyrille - you got your plug - I got my rant - Good Deal! And HP does
make great stuff - use lots.
Leon wrote:
> "cyrille de brébisson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I found the best calculator for woodworking (provided that you HAVE to use
>>that blody imperial system, if you are wise enough to use metric, good for
>>you, however, you know how hard it is when all the tools and the kerfs are
>>in imperial)....
>>
>
>
> Then using metric would be too smart would it?
>
>
>
>>It is the HP33S.
>
>
> Snip
>
> Um Calculated Industries has been marketing a fraction calculator for 15 +
> years. You can get them for about $20 at most any home center.
>
>
--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek
On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 13:50:10 +0000, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
> But it doesn't give you the neat gnat's ass/RCH (poil de cul,
> Cyrille) direction indicator the HP calculator has.
Sure it can. Next cell looks at the remainder, and does an ifthen to
display up- or down-arrow. I do that alla time. Same sorta trick for
degrees, min, sec, which xl and oo munge up if left unsupervised.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com
"Tom Watson" wrote in message
> I used the Calculated Industries Construction Master series of
> handhelds for years and found them to be very good.
<snip>
> I believe the fractions can be set down to 1/64 increments on this
> model.
Mine is the Construction Master IV ... I misuse it frequently.
You may have to interpolate on some fraction calculations, but it does the
job well.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04