Hello! I've inherited an old Delta TCS 203 (10" Table saw, 6" jointer).
It hasn't been used in several years, so I'm thinking it could use some
TLC. So does anyone have any tips for maintaining this beast? My current
plan is to start pulling things apart, cleaning them, giving the moving
bits a helping of grease, and changing the blades. Is rust a worry?
Parts of it looks a bit rusty, but it doesnt seem that anything is
decaying yet. I may try to repaint parts of it, but painting the whole
thing doesnt seem like a great idea to me. So far I havent found a
manual available for order on Delta's website, but I'm hoping that an
email to them will net me something.
I have a feeling that I could drop it off the roof and run it over with
an elephant and it would still work fine, but I thought I'd check with
the experts so I can keep it alive for another 50 years.
If anyone is curious, here are some pictures (obviously pre-cleaning :)
http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw1.jpg
http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw2.jpg
http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw3.jpg
http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw4.jpg
Thanks!
Joe
---
Remove dentistry implement to reply by email
Check-out the Old Wood Working Machines forums, here:
http://www.owwm.com
Thanks,
Phil
Joe Bott wrote:
> Hello! I've inherited an old Delta TCS 203 (10" Table saw, 6" jointer).
> It hasn't been used in several years, so I'm thinking it could use some
> TLC. So does anyone have any tips for maintaining this beast? My current
> plan is to start pulling things apart, cleaning them, giving the moving
> bits a helping of grease, and changing the blades. Is rust a worry?
> Parts of it looks a bit rusty, but it doesnt seem that anything is
> decaying yet. I may try to repaint parts of it, but painting the whole
> thing doesnt seem like a great idea to me. So far I havent found a
> manual available for order on Delta's website, but I'm hoping that an
> email to them will net me something.
>
> I have a feeling that I could drop it off the roof and run it over with
> an elephant and it would still work fine, but I thought I'd check with
> the experts so I can keep it alive for another 50 years.
>
> If anyone is curious, here are some pictures (obviously pre-cleaning :)
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw1.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw2.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw3.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw4.jpg
>
> Thanks!
> Joe
>
> ---
> Remove dentistry implement to reply by email
R. Pierce Butler
>>I would say that the saw is somewhat of a collectors item.
>
> "Greg D."
> What a strange comment... Have you looked at the pictures?
>
> This saw is close to a piece of old junk.
I guess an old Stanley #1 plane (92 patent date) is just a rusted old plane
and not as good as the current new model available at your local BORG.
Dave
LRod wrote:
> On Tue, 04 Jul 2006 10:04:02 GMT, Joe Bott
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >- Also, the sheave at the top end of the belt keeps wanting to slide off
> >the end of the shaft when it's running. It's held on by a set screw, but
> >so far no amount of tightening as helped. I'll need to find a solution
> >for that.
>
> Try a second set screw on top of the first. A jam screw, as it were.
>
> However, if you're not even getting a grip with the first one, that
> may not be enough. Simple solution is to file a flat on the shaft and
> set the screw onto that. More complex is to have a keyway milled on
> the arbor and change out the sheave for one with a matching keyway and
> then mount a key in the assembly.
or get a pulley that clamps to the shaft. they are a bit pricey but do
the job.
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I hear ya. This "culture of corruption" of the neo-cons has got to stop.
> Look at just another example of this with congressman William Jefferson.
> I mean, the dude had $90K of cash stashed in his freezer given to him by
> an informant as a bribe. It doesn't get any more open-and-shut than that.
> I hope he and the rest of the republicans get it.
>
> todd
>
Jefferson was a Democrat......Rod
"todd" wrote in message
> "Swingman"
wrote in message
> > "todd" wrote in message
> >
> >> I hear ya. This "culture of corruption" of the neo-cons has got to
stop.
> >> Look at just another example of this with congressman William
Jefferson.
> > I
> >> mean, the dude had $90K of cash stashed in his freezer given to him by
an
> >> informant as a bribe. It doesn't get any more open-and-shut than that.
> >> I
> >> hope he and the rest of the republicans get it.
> >
> > Tell us that you really don't know that William Jefferson is a liberal
> > Democrat?
>
> You're obviously part of the vast right-wing consipiracy.
No, dude ... what's "obvious" is that William Jefferson is not. :)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 6/21/06
"Greg D." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Another example, cars from the 20's and the 30's are wonderful. They
> still deserve to be around for specific tasks like marriage and the
> like. But would you drive such car everyday to work? I would certainly
> not. Why? Simply because if you get into an accident, your chances of
> surviving are dramatically reduced compared to newer cars. Why?
> Because those old cars are the worst thing you can design in terms of
> protection against accidents. They're built like tanks and you get
> smashed inside... Newer cars will deform to absorb the shock.
> Obviously, you always get an old fart to claim older cars were better
> built than new cars. This is just plain ignorance.
Patently flawed reasoning. For one - if you had a car built in the 20's or
30's or 40's or 50's, and you did drive it to work every day, you would most
likely drive it on local roads and not at interstate speeds. Under these
conditions, many if not most of these cars would hold up as well or better
than your favored crumple zones. Not all crumple zones are created equal
and there are a ton of cars out there today that offer less protection to
the occupant compartment than did the tanks of yesterday. For the more
frequent low speed collision, the big tanks will hold up much better than
your poorly designed crumple zone. They allow less intrusion and the risk
of being thrown about is quite negligible in low speed impact. Your logic
here focuses on one aspect of a topic and attempts to broadly generalized
based on that one narrow aspect. For those who only know of older cars from
what they read on the internet, the older cars deformed quite well. They
had real sheet metal that "crumpled" and absorbed impact at low to moderate
speeds, while at the same time protecting occupants from compartment
intrusion. At higher speeds, they admitedly had faults, but that owed more
to the absense of a restraint system - easily addressed to a point. Facts
in context are much more meaningful than broad generalizations.
>
> Now back to tools, my first priority is safety. If the tool is
> designed with serious flaws that pose a direct threat to my safety, I
> will not use it and I will see it as a big piece of junk regardless of
> its age or brand. I don't see why I would purposely refurbish an old
> piece of junk that's obvioulsy not safe and hope to get some service
> from it. I'm not that desparate or that cheap either.
Safety does not lie in the devices, but in the proper use of the devices.
False security arises from ill placed confidence in the device itself.
>
> Thank God, the days where you lost a few fingers at the work shop and
> you were back to work the next day are over.
>
Even more thankfully, as sensational as a line like that sounds, it was
never reality.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sun, 02 Jul 2006 15:43:44 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
>... Carefully replace any noisy bearings, sand the
>rust off and give it a lick of paint and you have a better saw than most of
>the stuff available at home centers. I am willing to bet that the runout
>and endplay is better than the typical contractors saw. While not a
>production cabinet saw, it looks quite useable and I would not be hesitant
>to use the saw.
>
>I would say that the saw is somewhat of a collectors item.
What a strange comment... Have you looked at the pictures?
This saw is close to a piece of old junk. At best, it may carry a
sentimental value if this saw means something to the owner. I doubt it
has any significant value in the collector's field though.
But how the hell this saw can be better than what's selling in home
centers? I would trust even more the cheapest contractor saw than this
saw. Even though it's got a lot of steel, there are some serious
design flaws that probably makes it more dangerous to operate than
newer saws.
Look at the blade guard arm that becomes an obstacle on the left side.
How about the flatness of the table? The way it's designed, the right
side of the table must have sag a bit over several decades. How about
having a jointer working at the same time you saw (unless you can
remove the V-belt and pick the tool of your choice but what a way of
choosing). You think it's safe to have all those V-belts exposed? What
about dust collection? Would you trade your 3HP Unisaw for that? I
doubt.
I think the best this saw can deserve is to return it to the closest
of its original condition and display it wherever will be interest for
such antiques. Aside from that, I would never use it and would
certainly never sacrifice the floor space this thing would take away
in my shop. Gheeez.
Greg D.
Not exactly a machine wiz, eh?
"Greg D." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 02 Jul 2006 15:43:44 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
> What a strange comment... Have you looked at the pictures?
>
> This saw is close to a piece of old junk. At best, it may carry a
> sentimental value if this saw means something to the owner. I doubt it
> has any significant value in the collector's field though.
>
> But how the hell this saw can be better than what's selling in home
> centers? I would trust even more the cheapest contractor saw than this
> saw. Even though it's got a lot of steel, there are some serious
> design flaws that probably makes it more dangerous to operate than
> newer saws.
>
> Look at the blade guard arm that becomes an obstacle on the left side.
> How about the flatness of the table? The way it's designed, the right
> side of the table must have sag a bit over several decades. How about
> having a jointer working at the same time you saw (unless you can
> remove the V-belt and pick the tool of your choice but what a way of
> choosing). You think it's safe to have all those V-belts exposed? What
> about dust collection? Would you trade your 3HP Unisaw for that? I
> doubt.
>
> I think the best this saw can deserve is to return it to the closest
> of its original condition and display it wherever will be interest for
> such antiques. Aside from that, I would never use it and would
> certainly never sacrifice the floor space this thing would take away
> in my shop. Gheeez.
>
>
> Greg D.
>
On Mon, 03 Jul 2006 21:00:08 -0400, Greg D. <[email protected]> wrote:
>Well, as another poster has pointed out already, this saw may be
>potentially dangerous to use.
[snippage]
>Now back to tools, my first priority is safety. If the tool is
>designed with serious flaws that pose a direct threat to my safety,
[more snippage]
Not to put too fine a point on it, but someone reading your post would
get an entirely different opinion of what I thought of the saw than if
they read my post. I didn't say at all that there were serious design
flaws, nor that there was a direct threat to one's safety. And my
observation about the potential for danger was limited--by inference,
if not overtly--to certain tasks under certain circumstances.
The tool appears to be solidly built and it is certainly capable of
some good work. That was the thrust of my post, not the doomsday pall
you cast over it. And that's not to say you aren't entitled to that
opinion. I'm just saying it wasn't mine.
>Thank God, the days where you lost a few fingers at the work shop and
>you were back to work the next day are over.
Not as long as the conservatives remain in charge. If you liked what
they're doing with off shore drilling and gutting the endangered
species list, you'll love what will come to OSHA next. In their minds,
workers and their appendages are expendable and equipment, training,
and practices that help protect them just cut unnecessarily into the
bottom line.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
Well, at least we know your opinions and how you express yourself
about things you can only see a picture of: Ignorance of what
the piece is comes to mind, as does a bad day.
Greg D. wrote:
> On Sun, 02 Jul 2006 15:43:44 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"
>
> > ... Carefully replace any noisy bearings, sand the
> > rust off and give it a lick of paint and you have a
> > better saw than most of the stuff available at home
> > centers. I am willing to bet that the runout and endplay
> > is better than the typical contractors saw. While not a
> > production cabinet saw, it looks quite useable and I
> > would not be hesitant to use the saw.
> >
> > I would say that the saw is somewhat of a collectors item.
>
>
> What a strange comment... Have you looked at the pictures?
>
> This saw is close to a piece of old junk. At best, it may
> carry a sentimental value if this saw means something to
> the owner. I doubt it has any significant value in the
> collector's field though.
>
> But how the hell this saw can be better than what's selling
> in home centers? I would trust even more the cheapest
> contractor saw than this saw. Even though it's got a lot of
> steel, there are some serious design flaws that probably
> makes it more dangerous to operate than newer saws.
>
> Look at the blade guard arm that becomes an obstacle on the
> left side. How about the flatness of the table? The way
> it's designed, the right side of the table must have sag a
> bit over several decades. How about having a jointer
> working at the same time you saw (unless you can remove the
> V-belt and pick the tool of your choice but what a way of
> choosing). You think it's safe to have all those V-belts
> exposed? What about dust collection? Would you trade your
> 3HP Unisaw for that? I doubt.
>
> I think the best this saw can deserve is to return it to
> the closest of its original condition and display it
> wherever will be interest for such antiques. Aside from
> that, I would never use it and would certainly never
> sacrifice the floor space this thing would take away in my
> shop. Gheeez.
>
>
> Greg D.
"LRod" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not as long as the conservatives remain in charge. If you liked what
> they're doing with off shore drilling and gutting the endangered
> species list, you'll love what will come to OSHA next. In their minds,
> workers and their appendages are expendable and equipment, training,
> and practices that help protect them just cut unnecessarily into the
> bottom line.
>
> LRod
I hear ya. This "culture of corruption" of the neo-cons has got to stop.
Look at just another example of this with congressman William Jefferson. I
mean, the dude had $90K of cash stashed in his freezer given to him by an
informant as a bribe. It doesn't get any more open-and-shut than that. I
hope he and the rest of the republicans get it.
todd
Joe Bott wrote:
> Hello! I've inherited an old Delta TCS 203 (10" Table saw,
> 6" jointer). It hasn't been used in several years, so I'm
> thinking it could use some TLC. So does anyone have any
> tips for maintaining this beast? My current plan is to
> start pulling things apart, cleaning them, giving the
> moving bits a helping of grease, and changing the blades.
> Is rust a worry? Parts of it looks a bit rusty, but it
> doesnt seem that anything is decaying yet. I may try to
> repaint parts of it, but painting the whole thing doesnt
> seem like a great idea to me. So far I havent found a
> manual available for order on Delta's website, but I'm
> hoping that an email to them will net me something.
> I have a feeling that I could drop it off the roof and run
> it over with an elephant and it would still work fine, but
> I thought I'd check with the experts so I can keep it alive
> for another 50 years.
> If anyone is curious, here are some pictures (obviously
> pre-cleaning :) http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw1.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw2.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw3.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw4.jpg
>
> Thanks!
> Joe
>
> ---
> Remove dentistry implement to reply by email
Hooo, wah! :-(o) Hey, that's no good for YOU! You better throw
it out right away, but here's the important part: Things such as
that can ONLY be disposed of in a special way! Write me and I'll
give you my address and promise to properly dispose of it for you
:-). Heck, I'll even pay the shipping for you!
Nice stuff seriously; enjoy. Mostly just keep the exposed steel
parts fixed up so they won't rust and a touch of lube here and
there if the bearings require it, and there really isn't much
else to worry about, I don't think. That's worth a gloat.
Congrats,
Pop
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "todd" wrote in message
>
>> I hear ya. This "culture of corruption" of the neo-cons has got to stop.
>> Look at just another example of this with congressman William Jefferson.
> I
>> mean, the dude had $90K of cash stashed in his freezer given to him by an
>> informant as a bribe. It doesn't get any more open-and-shut than that.
>> I
>> hope he and the rest of the republicans get it.
>
> Tell us that you really don't know that William Jefferson is a liberal
> Democrat?
You're obviously part of the vast right-wing consipiracy.
todd
Joe Bott <[email protected]> wrote in news:RHQpg.11908$lk7.3030
@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com:
> Hello! I've inherited an old Delta TCS 203 (10" Table saw, 6" jointer).
> It hasn't been used in several years, so I'm thinking it could use some
> TLC. So does anyone have any tips for maintaining this beast? My current
> plan is to start pulling things apart, cleaning them, giving the moving
> bits a helping of grease, and changing the blades. Is rust a worry?
> Parts of it looks a bit rusty, but it doesnt seem that anything is
> decaying yet. I may try to repaint parts of it, but painting the whole
> thing doesnt seem like a great idea to me. So far I havent found a
> manual available for order on Delta's website, but I'm hoping that an
> email to them will net me something.
>
> I have a feeling that I could drop it off the roof and run it over with
> an elephant and it would still work fine, but I thought I'd check with
> the experts so I can keep it alive for another 50 years.
>
> If anyone is curious, here are some pictures (obviously pre-cleaning :)
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw1.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw2.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw3.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw4.jpg
>
> Thanks!
> Joe
>
> ---
> Remove dentistry implement to reply by email
>
Hey....that whole top section looks like my 1940's era Unisaw. The fence
looks identical. The tables are cast iron and if they aren't pitted should
clean up really nicely. Carefully replace any noisy bearings, sand the
rust off and give it a lick of paint and you have a better saw than most of
the stuff available at home centers. I am willing to bet that the runout
and endplay is better than the typical contractors saw. While not a
production cabinet saw, it looks quite useable and I would not be hesitant
to use the saw.
I would say that the saw is somewhat of a collectors item.
[email protected] wrote in news:1151888919.348912.60450
@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:
> Check-out the Old Wood Working Machines forums, here:
>
> http://www.owwm.com
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
While not the same, it does give you an idea of the heritage of such a piece.
http://owwm.com/MfgIndex/image.asp?id=948
A thin kerf blade might work nicely on such a critter.
BTW that motor looks like a Delta motor and from what I understand, they
produce more torque than an off the shelf motor.
Clean the rust off the tables and you will be surprised just how smooth that
case iron can be. Add some Johnson's paste wax and you will be ready. I
would change the drive belt if the saw sat for any period of time. A new
belt will run smoother and with less vibration than the old one.
> Joe Bott wrote:
>> Hello! I've inherited an old Delta TCS 203 (10" Table saw, 6" jointer).
>> It hasn't been used in several years, so I'm thinking it could use some
>> TLC. So does anyone have any tips for maintaining this beast? My current
>> plan is to start pulling things apart, cleaning them, giving the moving
>> bits a helping of grease, and changing the blades. Is rust a worry?
>> Parts of it looks a bit rusty, but it doesnt seem that anything is
>> decaying yet. I may try to repaint parts of it, but painting the whole
>> thing doesnt seem like a great idea to me. So far I havent found a
>> manual available for order on Delta's website, but I'm hoping that an
>> email to them will net me something.
>>
>> I have a feeling that I could drop it off the roof and run it over with
>> an elephant and it would still work fine, but I thought I'd check with
>> the experts so I can keep it alive for another 50 years.
>>
>> If anyone is curious, here are some pictures (obviously pre-cleaning :)
>> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw1.jpg
>> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw2.jpg
>> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw3.jpg
>> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw4.jpg
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Joe
>>
>> ---
>> Remove dentistry implement to reply by email
>
Greg D. <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 15:39:57 -0700, "Teamcasa" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>I guess an old Stanley #1 plane (92 patent date) is just a rusted old
>>plane and not as good as the current new model available at your local
>>BORG.
>>
>>Dave
>
> You obviously didn't understand my point.
>
> I'm not saying all old tools are junk just because they're old. I was
> expressing my opinion on someone else's opinion claiming that the
> original poster had something better in his hands than what he could
> get in a BORG.
I have seen some of the stuff at the BORG and some of it is real crap.
As far as safety is concerned, the blade guard is there and as near as I
can tell the newest blade guards are virtualy unchaged today anyway. That
is the same guard that came with my unisaw.
I would have no problem using the saw once it was cleaned up, tuned up and
lubed.
I have no idea what the runout or end play is on the arbor but I would be
willing to bet it is nearly zero. I would wager that if the arbor is in
good shape he could make some very precise cuts with that saw. Much better
than a cheap contractors saw.
How much does that saw weigh anyway? The top alone must weigh 30 lbs.
Let see, the OP paid zero for the saw. It may need bearings and those
might cost $20 - $40. A new belt at $10.00 and new cord for $20.00 and a
new blade at $20.00. What will that same $90 buy you at the BORG? My
circular saw cost more than that.
I still think it is a useable saw and is capable of producting some very
accutate cuts and as a result, some very handsome items.
[email protected] wrote:
> LRod wrote:
>> On Tue, 04 Jul 2006 10:04:02 GMT, Joe Bott
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> - Also, the sheave at the top end of the belt keeps wanting to slide off
>>> the end of the shaft when it's running. It's held on by a set screw, but
>>> so far no amount of tightening as helped. I'll need to find a solution
>>> for that.
>> Try a second set screw on top of the first. A jam screw, as it were.
>>
>> However, if you're not even getting a grip with the first one, that
>> may not be enough. Simple solution is to file a flat on the shaft and
>> set the screw onto that. More complex is to have a keyway milled on
>> the arbor and change out the sheave for one with a matching keyway and
>> then mount a key in the assembly.
>
> or get a pulley that clamps to the shaft. they are a bit pricey but do
> the job.
>
I think I've got this solved, but I havent attempted to go the store
today. There is already a keyway, and I assumed that the set screw was
at least hitting the bottom of the notch in the shaft. But the screw is
wider than the keyway, so it was only making contact at the outer
ridges. So as soon as I find a real key, I should be set there. Until I
took it apart, it didnt look like it had a real keyway - just a slanted
notch that the set screw sat in.
I've pulled out the arbor, and the bearings feel like they could use a
bit of help but they're pretty good. I dont have a press so I'm going to
leave them alone for now.
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 15:39:57 -0700, "Teamcasa" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I guess an old Stanley #1 plane (92 patent date) is just a rusted old plane
>and not as good as the current new model available at your local BORG.
>
>Dave
You obviously didn't understand my point.
I'm not saying all old tools are junk just because they're old. I was
expressing my opinion on someone else's opinion claiming that the
original poster had something better in his hands than what he could
get in a BORG.
Well, as another poster has pointed out already, this saw may be
potentially dangerous to use. He suggested to keep its usage within a
specific task like dadoing or doing ripping cuts. I think this option
is reasonable even though I wouldn't do it myself. If you look at his
old tablesaw and you look at what's selling today, you will see a big
difference that comes mainly from manufacturer's experience learned
through thousands of serious injuries. If this design was the
greatest, they would still make them today like your Stanley plane,
don't they?
Another example, cars from the 20's and the 30's are wonderful. They
still deserve to be around for specific tasks like marriage and the
like. But would you drive such car everyday to work? I would certainly
not. Why? Simply because if you get into an accident, your chances of
surviving are dramatically reduced compared to newer cars. Why?
Because those old cars are the worst thing you can design in terms of
protection against accidents. They're built like tanks and you get
smashed inside... Newer cars will deform to absorb the shock.
Obviously, you always get an old fart to claim older cars were better
built than new cars. This is just plain ignorance.
Now back to tools, my first priority is safety. If the tool is
designed with serious flaws that pose a direct threat to my safety, I
will not use it and I will see it as a big piece of junk regardless of
its age or brand. I don't see why I would purposely refurbish an old
piece of junk that's obvioulsy not safe and hope to get some service
from it. I'm not that desparate or that cheap either.
Thank God, the days where you lost a few fingers at the work shop and
you were back to work the next day are over.
Greg D.
On Tue, 04 Jul 2006 10:04:02 GMT, Joe Bott
<[email protected]> wrote:
>- Also, the sheave at the top end of the belt keeps wanting to slide off
>the end of the shaft when it's running. It's held on by a set screw, but
>so far no amount of tightening as helped. I'll need to find a solution
>for that.
Try a second set screw on top of the first. A jam screw, as it were.
However, if you're not even getting a grip with the first one, that
may not be enough. Simple solution is to file a flat on the shaft and
set the screw onto that. More complex is to have a keyway milled on
the arbor and change out the sheave for one with a matching keyway and
then mount a key in the assembly.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
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"R. Pierce Butler" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> As far as safety is concerned, the blade guard is there and as near as I
> can tell the newest blade guards are virtualy unchaged today anyway. That
> is the same guard that came with my unisaw.
No... if it isn't a lexan blade guard it clearly isn't a good blade guard.
>
> I would have no problem using the saw once it was cleaned up, tuned up and
> lubed.
Me 'neither.
>
> I have no idea what the runout or end play is on the arbor but I would be
> willing to bet it is nearly zero. I would wager that if the arbor is in
> good shape he could make some very precise cuts with that saw. Much
better
> than a cheap contractors saw.
>
>
> I still think it is a useable saw and is capable of producting some very
> accutate cuts and as a result, some very handsome items.
>
My father-in-law has one of these saws and I'm not particularly fond of the
tilting table, but I've used the saw and it cuts very well. No less safe
than any other saw. There would be no good reason not to clean one of these
up, tune it up, and put it to use. It's got limitations, but it wasn't
designed to be the end all saw either. Like any other tool, use it as it
was intended and enjoy it.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sun, 02 Jul 2006 14:25:53 GMT, Joe Bott
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hello! I've inherited an old Delta TCS 203 (10" Table saw, 6" jointer).
>It hasn't been used in several years, so I'm thinking it could use some
>TLC. So does anyone have any tips for maintaining this beast? My current
>plan is to start pulling things apart, cleaning them, giving the moving
>bits a helping of grease, and changing the blades. Is rust a worry?
>Parts of it looks a bit rusty, but it doesnt seem that anything is
>decaying yet. I may try to repaint parts of it, but painting the whole
>thing doesnt seem like a great idea to me. So far I havent found a
>manual available for order on Delta's website, but I'm hoping that an
>email to them will net me something.
>
>I have a feeling that I could drop it off the roof and run it over with
>an elephant and it would still work fine, but I thought I'd check with
>the experts so I can keep it alive for another 50 years.
>
>If anyone is curious, here are some pictures (obviously pre-cleaning :)
>http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw1.jpg
>http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw2.jpg
>http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw3.jpg
>http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw4.jpg
Unless I miss my guess, that's a tilting table saw. It appears to be
substantial, nonetheless. And I don't think you need a manual. It
doesn't look like there are any innards to it at all--everything is
right out there in plain sight.
When I was growing up, my dad had an old 8" tilting table saw--almost
assuredly not a Delta. He/we wound up doing some decent work with
it--by that, I mean it will make good cuts--but trying to do any sort
of cuts that are angled (beveled cuts that would normally involve
tilting the arbor and blade in a modern tilting arbor saw) were at
best awkward and inconvenient, and at worst, downright dangerous.
That said, the fence looks like the Jet Lock system (reviled by many,
but at least it's not a Craftsman) used on contemporary Unisaws of the
time. The table also looks substantial with lots of webbing for
strength. Measure the miter slot. To be compatible with modern miter
gauges and other fixtures that use the slot, it should mike out at
.755" wide and 3/8" deep.
If you have room for the extra tool, I would think it would be more
than adequate as a ripping saw. An auxiliary sled would set you up for
very accurate crosscut work, and if you build a mitering sled, you're
all set for mitering with a semi-dedicated machine. That presupposes,
now that I reflect on it, that you are able to adjust the table (by
gauging to the miter slot) parallel with the blade.
It might also serve as a dadoing saw if the arbor is long enough
(couldn't tell if there was a removable insert). Just don't do angled
cuts with it (angles with the table square to the blade but with a
miter gauge angled are okay, the above parallelism caveat kept in
mind).
You'll also need to come up with a crank for the table tilt (keeping
in mind I don't recommend tilting it). That might be hard to find.
The jointer looks servicable. Depending on your shop facilities and
spare motor stash, I'd be inclined to mount it separrately somewhere
with its own motor. I certainly think you could do some decent work
with it, given its limitations of what appears to be typical 4"
jointer dimensions (relatively small bed length to blade width ratio)
although it's hard to say--that could be a 6" (in which case the ratio
is even worse...).
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
Thanks everyone for the comments. So far I've started sanding the top,
and it's cleaning up very easily, except for some blotches of what look
like paint. To address some things that have come up here and on my own:
- I have the crank for the tilting table. I dont plan on doing anything
that fancy with it yet though. The current plan is to start off slow,
and use it to cut wood for shelves.
- I have the original miter sled, but for some reason it was off on a
shelf somewhere when I took the pictures.
- It weighs a hell of a lot. I can barely lift any of it. I dont
remember how I got the table saw up on the stand after moving it here
(I've had it set up for about a year), but I bet I was in pain for a few
days after that. :)
- I've fired it up to see how it runs (just the saw, the jointer still
isnt hooked up). I think theres some vibration in there somewhere, but
I'm hoping that's all from the belt - it's torn to hell and I forgot to
measure it before I went shopping today.
- Also, the sheave at the top end of the belt keeps wanting to slide off
the end of the shaft when it's running. It's held on by a set screw, but
so far no amount of tightening as helped. I'll need to find a solution
for that.
I'll do some more fooling with it in the morning.
Joe Bott wrote:
> Hello! I've inherited an old Delta TCS 203 (10" Table saw, 6" jointer).
> It hasn't been used in several years, so I'm thinking it could use some
> TLC. So does anyone have any tips for maintaining this beast? My current
> plan is to start pulling things apart, cleaning them, giving the moving
> bits a helping of grease, and changing the blades. Is rust a worry?
> Parts of it looks a bit rusty, but it doesnt seem that anything is
> decaying yet. I may try to repaint parts of it, but painting the whole
> thing doesnt seem like a great idea to me. So far I havent found a
> manual available for order on Delta's website, but I'm hoping that an
> email to them will net me something.
>
> I have a feeling that I could drop it off the roof and run it over with
> an elephant and it would still work fine, but I thought I'd check with
> the experts so I can keep it alive for another 50 years.
>
> If anyone is curious, here are some pictures (obviously pre-cleaning :)
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw1.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw2.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw3.jpg
> http://www.bunkmonkey.com/tablesaw4.jpg
>
> Thanks!
> Joe
>
> ---
> Remove dentistry implement to reply by email
"todd" wrote in message
> I hear ya. This "culture of corruption" of the neo-cons has got to stop.
> Look at just another example of this with congressman William Jefferson.
I
> mean, the dude had $90K of cash stashed in his freezer given to him by an
> informant as a bribe. It doesn't get any more open-and-shut than that. I
> hope he and the rest of the republicans get it.
Tell us that you really don't know that William Jefferson is a liberal
Democrat?
--
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