Restoring Wooden Windows

Allen Windhorn wrote:
...
> Also Minwax makes a system, ...

I got taken on that...it's simply Bondo at 10x the price...

But, the fiberglass-free Bondo's do seem to work pretty well and are
much less expensive. The major problem w/ them is there is a <very>
short open time before they set up whereas the epoxies can be sculpted,
etc., for a while before they get too firm...

> ...and I've heard good things about something
> called "Git-Rot" though I haven't used it.

Don't know that one...

> I've been doing this on some basement storms. Some of them, I had to
> cut off a strip on the bottom, then glue and screw a replacement on.

For glue (for OP, use either the new "Type III" or a urethane waterproof
glue. I'd recommend the Type III as it dries more quickly and doesn't
have the foaming qualities.

...

Elise <[email protected]> writes:

> This thread has made me giggle.
>
> I only understood about 25% of it, but that's fine. It's the 25% I need
> to know.
>
> I didn't make it clear in my original post, but the windows aren't sash
> unfortunately.. just bog standard single glazed wooden bow bay windows.
>
> I think I'll practice on the lean-to at the back of the house... if it
> goes well I'll give it a go at the front. :)
>
> Thanks for the product rec Duane - I'll certainly have a look.

Also Minwax makes a system, and I've heard good things about something
called "Git-Rot" though I haven't used it.

I've been doing this on some basement storms. Some of them, I had to
cut off a strip on the bottom, then glue and screw a replacement on.

Read up on lead-based paint before you torch anything. I do it, but I
know what risks I'm taking. If it's adhering well, just scuff it and
paint over it.

Regards,
Allen
--
Allen Windhorn (507) 345-2782 FAX (507) 345-2805
Kato Engineering (Though I do not speak for Kato)
P.O. Box 8447, N. Mankato, MN 56002
[email protected]