SU

"Searcher"

10/12/2004 9:24 PM

OT. Fire rating for sheetrock

I hope this is a question that someone here can answer for me.

I am in the middle of building a gun safe. I would like some type of
fire protection. I am thinking fire rated sheetrock and fiberglass
isulation. what would you suggest the thickness (how many sheets) of
sheetrock should I line the interior with. Keeping in mind that the safe
will be located in my Basement. I would like to be able to keep the inside
temp. of the safe down to a level that would protect my guns. I do not care
about the safe at all. Would a thickness of 3 inches be sufficient?

Searcher1


This topic has 13 replies

SI

"Slowhand"

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 9:24 PM

10/12/2004 3:36 PM


"FMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Searcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:_toud.3805$Qp.1817@trnddc01...
>>I hope this is a question that someone here can answer for me.
>>
>> I am in the middle of building a gun safe. I would like some type of
>> fire protection. I am thinking fire rated sheetrock and fiberglass
>> isulation. what would you suggest the thickness (how many sheets) of
>> sheetrock should I line the interior with. Keeping in mind that the safe
>> will be located in my Basement. I would like to be able to keep the
>> inside temp. of the safe down to a level that would protect my guns. I do
>> not care about the safe at all. Would a thickness of 3 inches be
>> sufficient?
>>
>> Searcher1
>>
>>
>
> If I remember correctly, 5/8" = 1 hour wall.

One hour wall would be 5/8" on each side of the wall or 2 sheets thick.
SH

Jn

"Joe"

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 9:24 PM

11/12/2004 12:42 AM

If you want real protection, put a layer of "kaowool" in thre somewhere
between two fire-resistant something-or-others. It's basically fireproof
and will also hold up to direct flame if teh first layer were to
disintegrate.

Just be prepared to spend a bit more as it's not an easy material to track
down all that cheaply.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com

V8013

Jn

"Joe"

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 9:24 PM

11/12/2004 1:02 PM

RE: Kaowool

> http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/FiberFrax.htm

Different brand maybe, but exactly what I meant. Good link.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com

V8013

JC

"Joel Corwith"

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 9:24 PM

11/12/2004 8:17 AM


"Joe" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> If you want real protection, put a layer of "kaowool" in thre somewhere
> between two fire-resistant something-or-others. It's basically fireproof
> and will also hold up to direct flame if teh first layer were to
> disintegrate.
>
> Just be prepared to spend a bit more as it's not an easy material to track
> down all that cheaply.

http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/FiberFrax.htm

>
> Regards,
> Joe Agro, Jr.
> http://www.autodrill.com
> http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com
>
> V8013
>
>

JC

"Joel Corwith"

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 9:24 PM

11/12/2004 8:19 AM

Why not put the safe near a water source and install a fire suppression
device over the top?

"Searcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:_toud.3805$Qp.1817@trnddc01...
> I hope this is a question that someone here can answer for me.
>
> I am in the middle of building a gun safe. I would like some type of
> fire protection. I am thinking fire rated sheetrock and fiberglass
> isulation. what would you suggest the thickness (how many sheets) of
> sheetrock should I line the interior with. Keeping in mind that the safe
> will be located in my Basement. I would like to be able to keep the inside
> temp. of the safe down to a level that would protect my guns. I do not
care
> about the safe at all. Would a thickness of 3 inches be sufficient?
>
> Searcher1
>
>

SU

"Searcher"

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 9:24 PM

10/12/2004 11:53 PM

OK, heres my thoughts,
1/16 steel + 3 " fire rated S/R + 1/16 steel inner liner = Time for the fire
dept to get there and put out the fire!
Sound about right?
Now if I can find a locking system....

Searcher1

"Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "FMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Searcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:_toud.3805$Qp.1817@trnddc01...
>>>I hope this is a question that someone here can answer for me.
>>>
>>> I am in the middle of building a gun safe. I would like some type of
>>> fire protection. I am thinking fire rated sheetrock and fiberglass
>>> isulation. what would you suggest the thickness (how many sheets) of
>>> sheetrock should I line the interior with. Keeping in mind that the safe
>>> will be located in my Basement. I would like to be able to keep the
>>> inside temp. of the safe down to a level that would protect my guns. I
>>> do not care about the safe at all. Would a thickness of 3 inches be
>>> sufficient?
>>>
>>> Searcher1
>>>
>>>
>>
>> If I remember correctly, 5/8" = 1 hour wall.
>
> One hour wall would be 5/8" on each side of the wall or 2 sheets thick.
> SH
>
>

SU

"Searcher"

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 11:53 PM

11/12/2004 1:50 AM

I was thinking about that too. Also, Creating the outer skin and placing the
inner liner in place and filling with cement. You'd think 3 " of cement
would do the trick. It would actually be less work for me.

Searcher1

"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Searcher notes:
>
>
>>OK, heres my thoughts,
>>1/16 steel + 3 " fire rated S/R + 1/16 steel inner liner = Time for the
>>fire
>>dept to get there and put out the fire!
>>Sound about right?
>>Now if I can find a locking system...
>
> How about cementitious board. I'm pretty sure that out-fire-resists
> Sheetrock
> (tm).
>
> Charlie Self
> "Man is the only animal that blushes. Or needs to." Mark Twain

cC

[email protected] (Charlie Self)

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 11:53 PM

11/12/2004 12:31 AM

Searcher notes:


>OK, heres my thoughts,
>1/16 steel + 3 " fire rated S/R + 1/16 steel inner liner = Time for the fire
>dept to get there and put out the fire!
>Sound about right?
>Now if I can find a locking system...

How about cementitious board. I'm pretty sure that out-fire-resists Sheetrock
(tm).

Charlie Self
"Man is the only animal that blushes. Or needs to." Mark Twain

MP

Mike Paulsen

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 11:53 PM

11/12/2004 3:11 AM

Charlie Self wrote:
> Searcher notes:
>
>
>
>>OK, heres my thoughts,
>>1/16 steel + 3 " fire rated S/R + 1/16 steel inner liner = Time for the fire
>>dept to get there and put out the fire!
>>Sound about right?
>>Now if I can find a locking system...
>
>
> How about cementitious board. I'm pretty sure that out-fire-resists Sheetrock
> (tm).
>

Gypsum undergoes calcination at ~180 F. That means that the chemically
bound water is released and can be driven off as steam. The calcination
progresses through the gypsum and the temperature doesn't rise much
above 212 F ahead of that progression. From what I can tell from a quick
google search, basic portland cement doesn't undergo calcination until
it hits 800 - 1200 F. Based on that, I'd guess that gypsum is the better
choice if you want to keep the internal temperature down.

If you'd like to pour something, maybe gypsum plaster would make more
sense than cement.

As an aside, gypsum is pretty weak once it's undergone calcination.
Firecode (type x) drywall is impregnated with reinforcing fibers to keep
it from disintegrating as easily as regular drywall.

cC

[email protected] (Charlie Self)

in reply to Mike Paulsen on 11/12/2004 3:11 AM

11/12/2004 3:02 PM

Mike Paulsen responds:

>Charlie Self wrote:
>> Searcher notes:
>>
>>
>>
>>>OK, heres my thoughts,
>>>1/16 steel + 3 " fire rated S/R + 1/16 steel inner liner = Time for the
>fire
>>>dept to get there and put out the fire!
>>>Sound about right?
>>>Now if I can find a locking system...
>>
>>
>> How about cementitious board. I'm pretty sure that out-fire-resists
>Sheetrock
>> (tm).
>>
>
>Gypsum undergoes calcination at ~180 F. That means that the chemically
>bound water is released and can be driven off as steam. The calcination
>progresses through the gypsum and the temperature doesn't rise much
>above 212 F ahead of that progression. From what I can tell from a quick
>google search, basic portland cement doesn't undergo calcination until
>it hits 800 - 1200 F. Based on that, I'd guess that gypsum is the better
>choice if you want to keep the internal temperature down.
>
>If you'd like to pour something, maybe gypsum plaster would make more
>sense than cement.

I was writing of the board, not poured solid cement. James Hardie claims that
1/4" backerboard can be made part of a 1 hour fire rating. The board is totally
non-combustible. Beyond that, I don't have any facts. I'm sure some googling
would bring more up.

Charlie Self
"Man is the only animal that blushes. Or needs to." Mark Twain

AV

Allyn Vaughn

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 11:53 PM

11/12/2004 2:31 PM

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 01:50:51 GMT, "Searcher"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I was thinking about that too. Also, Creating the outer skin and placing the
>inner liner in place and filling with cement. You'd think 3 " of cement
>would do the trick. It would actually be less work for me.
>
>
snip

Actually with 3" of concrete, depending upon the mix, you'd be luck to
get an hour or an hour and a half. 4 to 5 inches will get you
somewhere around 2-hours.

Allyn

AV

Allyn Vaughn

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 9:24 PM

11/12/2004 1:03 AM

On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 21:24:10 GMT, "Searcher"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I hope this is a question that someone here can answer for me.
>
> I am in the middle of building a gun safe. I would like some type of
>fire protection. I am thinking fire rated sheetrock and fiberglass
>isulation. what would you suggest the thickness (how many sheets) of
>sheetrock should I line the interior with. Keeping in mind that the safe
>will be located in my Basement. I would like to be able to keep the inside
>temp. of the safe down to a level that would protect my guns. I do not care
>about the safe at all. Would a thickness of 3 inches be sufficient?
>
>Searcher1
>

5/8" Type X gypsum board on each side of a 4" stud will give you a
1-hour fire rated wall. You could even go to a layer of 1/2" on each
side with the 2x4 and still get close to a 1-hour wall. You have to
have the studs at about 16" OC. You could also do two layers of rock
on one side (shaft liner approach) and get the 1-hour. Double layers
on each side will give you a 2-hour wall. The UL tests for various
walls also regulate the screw placement and rock placement, but I
think you could do alright as described. The cemetous board mentioned
will also give you some rating.

Per the International Building Code here are the ratings of gypsum
board (sheetrock):

3/8" - 10 minutes
1/2" - 15 minutes
3/4" - 20 minutes
2 layers of 3/8" - 25 minutes
1 layer of 3/8" and 1 layer of 1/2" - 35 minutes
2 layers of 1/2" - 40 minutes

Type X:

1/2" - 25 minutes
5/8" - 40 minutes

These values are usually additive when applied to studs. You even get
10-minutes typically for a 2x4 stud.

Allyn

FF

"FMB"

in reply to "Searcher" on 10/12/2004 9:24 PM

10/12/2004 9:28 PM

"Searcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:_toud.3805$Qp.1817@trnddc01...
>I hope this is a question that someone here can answer for me.
>
> I am in the middle of building a gun safe. I would like some type of
> fire protection. I am thinking fire rated sheetrock and fiberglass
> isulation. what would you suggest the thickness (how many sheets) of
> sheetrock should I line the interior with. Keeping in mind that the safe
> will be located in my Basement. I would like to be able to keep the inside
> temp. of the safe down to a level that would protect my guns. I do not
> care about the safe at all. Would a thickness of 3 inches be sufficient?
>
> Searcher1
>
>

If I remember correctly, 5/8" = 1 hour wall.
--

FMB
(only one B in FMB)


You’ve reached the end of replies