Making joints for beaded cabinet face frames

On Apr 30, 11:36 pm, "Peter Wells" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm experimenting with making joints for cabinet face frames that are made
> up of a plain 1 1/2" wide piece with small beads (approx 5/16" wide) on the
> sides(. The joint needs to be mitered to the bottom of the bead and then a
> simple butt joint. The end of the rail is straightforward, miter both sides
> then make a straight 90 degree cut for the end. It's the groove with
> mitered ends that is difficult.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Peter

If I remember correctly, this is called mitered sticking. The
technique involves making the beading along the edge then cutting the
grooves to the same depth as the bead. Then clip off the corner of
the bead on the rail piece. Using the mitered rail piece, mark the
stile where the miter intersects. You will miter that intersection on
the stile to the bottom of the groove and then cut off the bead on the
stile from the end of the piece to the miter. The rail and stile
should fit together with the bead appearing continuous around the
frame.

Examples of this are shown at the following web sites althought they
both show with a maortise and tenon reather than a butt joint. In
your case use pocket hole technique to attach the butt joint or simply
glue and fix the face frame in place. http://www.cadcourse.com/winston/Panel.html
and http://www.amanatool.com/lonniebird-cabinet-doors-drawers.html.

Hope this helps,

Ed

I've seen Norm do it with a table saw. He sets his blade at 45 degrees then
cuts
the beading and cleans it up with a SHARP chisel.
Ted

"Peter Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm experimenting with making joints for cabinet face frames that are made
> up of a plain 1 1/2" wide piece with small beads (approx 5/16" wide) on
> the sides(. The joint needs to be mitered to the bottom of the bead and
> then a simple butt joint. The end of the rail is straightforward, miter
> both sides then make a straight 90 degree cut for the end. It's the
> groove with mitered ends that is difficult.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Peter
>

Thanks to those who replied, I've been experimenting as follows,

(i) starting with the basic rail and stile with the edge beading
(ii) for the rail, cut the two 45 degrees and then trim off square so the
miter ends at the edge of the bead
(iii) make a 3/8" dado cut in the middle of the stile where the groove will
be, cut to the depth of the bottom of the bead
(iv) I've set a template up on a radial arms saw, it consists of a 3/8"
groove at the correct distance from the blade to make the edge cuts. The
blade is set to 45 degrees. With this setup and a piece of 3/8" square
section rod I can align the stile to the template and make one of the miter
cuts, then rotate and using the same slot make the second cut.
(v) Now I go back to the dado and remove the rest of the wood to make the
groove
(vi) Clean up with a chisel

I get reasonable results, I think I need to attach the template better on
the radial arm saw and the dado tends to tear the wood a little - it doesn't
work as well as I'd hoped.

Thanks again,

Peter


"Bigpole" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've seen Norm do it with a table saw. He sets his blade at 45 degrees
> then cuts
> the beading and cleans it up with a SHARP chisel.
> Ted
>
> "Peter Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm experimenting with making joints for cabinet face frames that are
>> made up of a plain 1 1/2" wide piece with small beads (approx 5/16" wide)
>> on the sides(. The joint needs to be mitered to the bottom of the bead
>> and then a simple butt joint. The end of the rail is straightforward,
>> miter both sides then make a straight 90 degree cut for the end. It's
>> the groove with mitered ends that is difficult.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Peter
>>
>
>