OFWW <[email protected]> wrote:
> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and using
> clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion contraction
> and painted is concerned.
>
If you are using solid wood for the panels you should allow for some
expansion and contraction across the width of the panel. The important
thing will to be to pre paint/seal all six sides of the panels before
assembly. This will limit the amount of movement.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 14:07:46 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/29/16 11:54 PM, OFWW wrote:
>> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and using
>> clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion contraction
>> and painted is concerned.
>>
>
>Are the panels flat or raised?
>Since you're painting, you might consider MDF for either.
>If flat, shaker style, I would highly recommend MDF, as it doesn't get
>much easier than that. MDF paints great and is about as stable as you
>can get.
They are going to be raised panel. IIRC Mdf in such a situation looks
rough and not easily sanded.
On 9/30/2016 12:27 PM, OFWW wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 03:31:20 -0500, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> OFWW <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and using
>>> clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion contraction
>>> and painted is concerned.
>>>
>>
>> If you are using solid wood for the panels you should allow for some
>> expansion and contraction across the width of the panel. The important
>> thing will to be to pre paint/seal all six sides of the panels before
>> assembly. This will limit the amount of movement.
>
> Thanks, I have read in a few places that it is better to have joined a
> few pieces for the panels rather than use one solid piece to eliminate
> warping, would you agree with that?
Solid wood panels can warp however if they are not warped to begin with
and you seal them properly they should not warp, especially in a
controlled environment.
My experience is that multi piece panels are less expensive to buy
than one piece wide panels.
It is a practice to alternate growth rings up and down on multi piece
glue ups. I think this is a carry over from many years ago when there
was no AC and or controlled humidity year round. I have never had issue
with panels warping with proper precautions.
>
> I'm sealing everything before I paint.
>
Be sure to seal all 6 sides of the panel before assembly too.
On 9/30/2016 9:09 PM, OFWW wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 14:07:46 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 9/29/16 11:54 PM, OFWW wrote:
>>> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and using
>>> clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion contraction
>>> and painted is concerned.
>>>
>>
>> Are the panels flat or raised?
>> Since you're painting, you might consider MDF for either.
>> If flat, shaker style, I would highly recommend MDF, as it doesn't get
>> much easier than that. MDF paints great and is about as stable as you
>> can get.
>
> They are going to be raised panel. IIRC Mdf in such a situation looks
> rough and not easily sanded.
>
If you add a coat of sealer and then sand I would imagine that the MDF
would be easier to smooth out before painting.
I have not done this but that is what I would try first. ;~)
Alternatively the MDO that I am using and it has Fir interior plys.
Ourter surface is good for painting too... Just a thought.
replying to OFWW, Nicholas Holloway wrote:
> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and using
> clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion contraction
> and painted is concerned.
Got your single-wide to double-wide conversion completed, OAF?
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/cabinet-doors-801623-.htm
On 09/30/2016 12:27 PM, OFWW wrote:
...
> Thanks, I have read in a few places that it is better to have joined a
> few pieces for the panels rather than use one solid piece to eliminate
> warping, would you agree with that?
...
May help but grain selection will be far more helpful. Use quarter-sawn
or near as can get rather than plainsawn w/ a lot of face will be the best.
On 9/29/16 11:54 PM, OFWW wrote:
> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and using
> clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion contraction
> and painted is concerned.
>
Are the panels flat or raised?
Since you're painting, you might consider MDF for either.
If flat, shaker style, I would highly recommend MDF, as it doesn't get
much easier than that. MDF paints great and is about as stable as you
can get.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 9/30/16 9:09 PM, OFWW wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 14:07:46 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On 9/29/16 11:54 PM, OFWW wrote:
>>> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and
>>> using clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion
>>> contraction and painted is concerned.
>>>
>>
>> Are the panels flat or raised? Since you're painting, you might
>> consider MDF for either. If flat, shaker style, I would highly
>> recommend MDF, as it doesn't get much easier than that. MDF paints
>> great and is about as stable as you can get.
>
> They are going to be raised panel. IIRC Mdf in such a situation
> looks rough and not easily sanded.
>
That's why I "highly" recommended it for flat and only said to consider
it for raised.
However, I would add that the reason many MDF raised panels look poor is
because some people skip the step of priming and sanding. It doesn't
take long.
With a shellac based primer like Zinnser BIN, you can get a baby-butt
smooth surface on cut MDF surfaces with about 2 coats. Considering how
quickly is machines, how stable it is, non-built-up panels, and how well
it paints up, a high quality MDF is a worthy substitution.
The big negative is if you need a pattern that looks stupid when cut
with the rounded interior corners that router bits produce.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sat, 01 Oct 2016 03:21:39 +0000, Nicholas Holloway
<[email protected]> wrote:
>replying to OFWW, Nicholas Holloway wrote:
>> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and using
>> clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion contraction
>> and painted is concerned.
>
>Got your single-wide to double-wide conversion completed, OAF?
Anxious to move in are you?
On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 03:31:20 -0500, Leon <[email protected]> wrote:
>OFWW <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and using
>> clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion contraction
>> and painted is concerned.
>>
>
>If you are using solid wood for the panels you should allow for some
>expansion and contraction across the width of the panel. The important
>thing will to be to pre paint/seal all six sides of the panels before
>assembly. This will limit the amount of movement.
Thanks, I have read in a few places that it is better to have joined a
few pieces for the panels rather than use one solid piece to eliminate
warping, would you agree with that?
I'm sealing everything before I paint.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 22:44:27 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 9/30/16 9:09 PM, OFWW wrote:
>> On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 14:07:46 -0500, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 9/29/16 11:54 PM, OFWW wrote:
>>>> Is making a door with a maple frame(which will match the FF) and
>>>> using clear poplar for the panels acceptable as far as expansion
>>>> contraction and painted is concerned.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Are the panels flat or raised? Since you're painting, you might
>>> consider MDF for either. If flat, shaker style, I would highly
>>> recommend MDF, as it doesn't get much easier than that. MDF paints
>>> great and is about as stable as you can get.
>>
>> They are going to be raised panel. IIRC Mdf in such a situation
>> looks rough and not easily sanded.
>>
>
>That's why I "highly" recommended it for flat and only said to consider
>it for raised.
>However, I would add that the reason many MDF raised panels look poor is
>because some people skip the step of priming and sanding. It doesn't
>take long.
>
>With a shellac based primer like Zinnser BIN, you can get a baby-butt
>smooth surface on cut MDF surfaces with about 2 coats. Considering how
>quickly is machines, how stable it is, non-built-up panels, and how well
>it paints up, a high quality MDF is a worthy substitution.
>
>The big negative is if you need a pattern that looks stupid when cut
>with the rounded interior corners that router bits produce.
Well being as I am going to be building some sample door for the wife
to approve of, I will give that a shot for the panel and see what she
says as well as see how it looks after sealing and painting as you
have said. Thanks.