On Sat, 21 Feb 2004 11:59:59 -0500, Glen Duff
<[email protected]> wrote:
>First, is it a good idea to build cabinets without the cutout for the
>toe kick?
I build the boxes separately from the toe kicks.
>
>Second, is keeping carcasses to the minimum with sides built of 1/2"
>baltic birch a good way to go. In other words, screwing two sides of
>baltic birch together for a 1" support.
not picturing this. if you mean laminating together two layers of
baltic birch for carcase construction, that sounds like overkill.
>
>Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>Glen Duff
I am building them in my home shop then installing them in our kitchen.
Glen Duff
-----------------
Rick Samuel wrote:
> Are these cabinets built in place?
>
> Glen Duff wrote:
>
>> First, is it a good idea to build cabinets without the cutout for the
>> toe kick?
>>
>> Second, is keeping carcasses to the minimum with sides built of 1/2"
>> baltic birch a good way to go. In other words, screwing two sides of
>> baltic birch together for a 1" support.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>>
>> Glen Duff
>>
"Glen Duff" wrote in message
> First, is it a good idea to build cabinets without the cutout for the
> toe kick?
You will get differing opinions on this ... I generally build the kickplate
into my base cabinets. I find I get a stronger cabinet that way, and one
that will support heavy countertops without fears of racking.
Others prefer to build the boxes and set them on a pre-leveled base. In some
installations this will certainly make leveling easier than shimming a row
of cabinets with the kickplate built-in ... but I have not had a problem
doing it either way.
That said, If I was in a hurry, or doing volume work, the separate base
would probably be my choice.
> Second, is keeping carcasses to the minimum with sides built of 1/2"
> baltic birch a good way to go. In other words, screwing two sides of
> baltic birch together for a 1" support.
Why double the 1/2" for cabinet sides? If you build your cabinets right, it
should not necessary. If you feel you need more width, go with 3/4" ... it
should be cheaper in the long run than doubling 1/2".
That said, I always use 3/4" ply for base cabinet sides and floors,
especially if you/someone wants granite or marble counter tops.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/13/04
Glen Duff wrote:
> First, is it a good idea to build cabinets without the cutout for the
> toe kick?
See this thread from a couple days ago.
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&threadm=b864d6d7.0402191019.19f74a%40posting.google.com&rnum=1&prev=/groups%3Fsourceid%3Dnavclient%26ie%3DUTF-8%26oe%3DUTF-8%26q%3DConcept%2BLeg%2BLevelers
-- or --
http://tinyurl.com/3eafz
HTH.
-- Mark
Are these cabinets built in place?
Glen Duff wrote:
> First, is it a good idea to build cabinets without the cutout for the
> toe kick?
>
> Second, is keeping carcasses to the minimum with sides built of 1/2"
> baltic birch a good way to go. In other words, screwing two sides of
> baltic birch together for a 1" support.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Glen Duff
>
"Glen Duff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> First, is it a good idea to build cabinets without the cutout for the
> toe kick?
>
Here is what I have found. A built in toe kick requires less wood. It takes
less time to build the cabinet because there is less cutting. And, it has a
cleaner look from the side if it is an end cabinet.
But, what I have also found is this. A separate toe kick is better if you
expect the base to subjected to moisture from the floor. That is if the toe
kick gets water logged it can be replaced not the whole cabinet. It was
easier for me to adjust for the drastic slope in by garage/shop cabinets
with a separate base/toe kick. If they are moved to another spot a new toe
kick can be built.
So I would say it depends on your needs.
Roy
Glen Duff wrote:
>First, is it a good idea to build cabinets without the cutout for the
>toe kick?
Not 'zaktly sure what you mean. If you mean, no recess
below the cabinets, the answer would be, bad idea onna
'count of the stub factor/the body's natural tendency to
want to stand upright but at the same time lean against the
cabinet face. In other words, very uncomfortable. 'Sides,
only a hack would do something like this on a project so
major. Don't be a hack.
Now, if you meant something else, please explain.
>Second, is keeping carcasses to the minimum with sides built of 1/2"
>baltic birch a good way to go. In other words, screwing two sides of
>baltic birch together for a 1" support.
It's workable, just different.
UA100