I picked up a couple of formica countertops at Ikea many years ago to
use as desk surfaces. They're about 1-1/2" thick particle board and
still in excellent condition. I cut one down to make a new desk in our
home office. I'd like to do the same for a desk for my daughter's
room.
I thought awhile about how I might cut the first one. Not knowing
anything, I ended up scoring the line with a razor knife a bunch of
times, then using a small circular saw to cut just barely through the
formica and a 7" circular saw to cut through the rest. I cut it from
the top. The result was passable, but I think it could have been
better.
I'm wondering what other ways there might be to go about this. I was
considering using a router to make a shallow cut through the formica,
then follow it with a circular saw.
I plan to finish off the ends with 1x2 oak by the way.
Thanks in advance.
Greg Guarino
> > I'm wondering what other ways there might be to go about this. I was
> > considering using a router to make a shallow cut through the formica,
> > then follow it with a circular saw.
Sounds like a pretty good idea, but I'd look into a spiral downcut bit
to reduce chipping. That might require cutting it a little bit long
(1/8"?) first, then trimming with the router to clean up the cut.
Another idea I've heard is to cover the cut with masking tape, and then
cut it upside down with the circular saw (so the teeth are cutting into
the formica, not exiting it). No, don't hold the saw upside down, turn
the workpiece upside down before cutting it. Of course a good blade
with lots of sharp carbide teeth (maybe a plywood or crosscut blade?)
would help.
If it were me, I'd definitely do some practice cuts on the ends I was
planning to cut off.
Good luck,
Andy
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 01:03:45 -0400, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> I'm wondering what other ways there might be to go about this. I was
>> considering using a router to make a shallow cut through the formica,
>> then follow it with a circular saw.
>
>Cut it close to 1/4" or 1/2" with the power saw and then finish it off with
>a straightedge and a router.
>
As I replied to someone else, how deep can a router be reasonably
expected to cut? The piece is an inch and a half thick. What router
bit would you get for this task? I've only got a couple, none of
which will suit this application.
I'm guessing that the reason people are suggesting using the router
for the whole cut is so there's just one setup, guaranteeing
precision. But I lose that if I have to do half the cut from each
side, don't I?
Greg Guarino
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I'm wondering what other ways there might be to go about this. I was
> considering using a router to make a shallow cut through the formica,
> then follow it with a circular saw.
Cut it close to 1/4" or 1/2" with the power saw and then finish it off with
a straightedge and a router.
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 13:51:20 GMT, B A R R Y <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 03:46:43 GMT, "Leon"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Do all the cutting with the router bit in several passes.
>>>
>> Hmmm. The piece is 1.5" thick. Do router bits exist that are that
>> long?
>
>Yes. Here's an example:
><http://www.westerntool.com/product.htm?pid=502711>
I've got to do some searching. I'm a weekend home-handyman with a 1/4"
shank router.
> > And if they do, wouldn't they probably be a larger diameter
>> (plowing out more material) than one would ideally want?
>
>Any diameter bit can remove as little or as much as you want.
True, if you cut it almost to length with a saw beforehand, which is
what you are suggesting.
>I cut and square the ends of table and counter tops on a regular basis
>in three easy steps:
>
>- Mark the cut line
>- Cut to within 3/8-1/2" of the cut line with a circular, jig, or hand saw.
>- Clamp a straight edge (jointed wood, angle iron, spirit level, etc...)
>to the top in a location where the bit will remove 1/4" or so, as the
>router base slides along the straight edge. Make two passes, with the
>second ending exactly at the cut line.
>
>- (optional) Enjoy your perfect edge.
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> As I replied to someone else, how deep can a router be reasonably
> expected to cut? The piece is an inch and a half thick. What router
> bit would you get for this task? I've only got a couple, none of
> which will suit this application.
Sure, there's long enough bits available. Here's a few samples. I'd be
looking at using them to trim, not to insert.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=30165&cat=1,46168,46171&ap=1
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&p=30166&cat=1,46168,46171&ap=1
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 03:46:43 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Do all the cutting with the router bit in several passes.
>>
>
> Hmmm. The piece is 1.5" thick. Do router bits exist that are that
> long? And if they do, wouldn't they probably be a larger diameter
> (plowing out more material) than one would ideally want?
>
> Don't get me wrong; the idea of setting up a fence ONCE really appeals
> to my sense of precision (and laziness), but I wonder if it's
> practical.
>
> Greg Guarino
Yes they exist, typically in 1/2 inch. Cutting from the bottom, you
need an up cutting bit. You wouldn't really be losing anymore than if
you rough cut, then trimmed with the router. Downside is the bits are
solid carbide and expensive. You could also use a regular straight
cutting bit from the top and either score the cut line or take a very
shallow first pass.
Jess.S
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I picked up a couple of formica countertops at Ikea many years ago to
> use as desk surfaces. They're about 1-1/2" thick particle board and
> still in excellent condition. I cut one down to make a new desk in our
> home office. I'd like to do the same for a desk for my daughter's
> room.
>
> I thought awhile about how I might cut the first one. Not knowing
> anything, I ended up scoring the line with a razor knife a bunch of
> times, then using a small circular saw to cut just barely through the
> formica and a 7" circular saw to cut through the rest. I cut it from
> the top. The result was passable, but I think it could have been
> better.
>
> I'm wondering what other ways there might be to go about this. I was
> considering using a router to make a shallow cut through the formica,
> then follow it with a circular saw.
>
> I plan to finish off the ends with 1x2 oak by the way.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg Guarino
Do all the cutting with the router bit in several passes.
Greg Guarino wrote:
>
> I've got to do some searching. I'm a weekend home-handyman with a 1/4"
> shank router.
A good router, with 1/2" and 1/4" collets, like a PC690, Bosch 1617, or
the equivalent from DeWalt or Milwaukee, might be a useful addition for
a serious weekend handyman.
Otherwise, after purchasing a suitable bit, you could probably rent one
for a few hours. My local Home Depot and independent rental centers
actually have pretty good rentals at reasonable rates. Routers,
sanders, hammer drills, etc... are only ~$15-$20 for 4 hours, here in
East Westchester County, USA (CT <G>).
As much as I hate Home Depot, my local rental center has served me well.
They sell off the tools on a regular basis, so the stuff I've rented
has been in top notch condition.
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip022500wb.html
Make two versions:
(1) for a circular saw
(2) for a router(much cleaner cut)
Greg Guarino wrote:
> I picked up a couple of formica countertops at Ikea many years ago to
> use as desk surfaces. They're about 1-1/2" thick particle board and
> still in excellent condition. I cut one down to make a new desk in our
> home office. I'd like to do the same for a desk for my daughter's
> room.
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 03:46:43 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Do all the cutting with the router bit in several passes.
>
Hmmm. The piece is 1.5" thick. Do router bits exist that are that
long? And if they do, wouldn't they probably be a larger diameter
(plowing out more material) than one would ideally want?
Don't get me wrong; the idea of setting up a fence ONCE really appeals
to my sense of precision (and laziness), but I wonder if it's
practical.
Greg Guarino
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
: I thought awhile about how I might cut the first one. Not knowing
: anything, I ended up scoring the line with a razor knife a bunch of
: times, then using a small circular saw to cut just barely through the
: formica and a 7" circular saw to cut through the rest. I cut it from
: the top. The result was passable, but I think it could have been
: better.
: I'm wondering what other ways there might be to go about this. I was
: considering using a router to make a shallow cut through the formica,
: then follow it with a circular saw.
Get a 40 tooth or better blade for the circular saw.
Turn the countertops upside down, so that the saw blade cuts
inwards toward the formica (if right side up, the blade
would pull the forimica upwards, causing chipping).
` -- Andy Barss
On 17 Sep 2006 21:33:02 -0700, "Andy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Of course a good blade
>with lots of sharp carbide teeth (maybe a plywood or crosscut blade?)
>would help.
I'm a weekend homeowner/handyman kind of guy, not by any means a real
woodworker. I've got a run-of-the-mill Skil circular saw with a better
blade than what came with it originally.
>If it were me, I'd definitely do some practice cuts on the ends I was
>planning to cut off.
I've got plenty of excess. I'll definitely do that this time. My luck
I'll probably cut it perfectly, but too long, on the first pass and
never get as good a result again.
Thanks for the advice.
Greg Guarino
Greg Guarino wrote:
> I picked up a couple of formica countertops at Ikea many years ago to
> use as desk surfaces. They're about 1-1/2" thick particle board and
> still in excellent condition. I cut one down to make a new desk in our
> home office. I'd like to do the same for a desk for my daughter's
> room.
>
> I thought awhile about how I might cut the first one. Not knowing
> anything, I ended up scoring the line with a razor knife a bunch of
> times, then using a small circular saw to cut just barely through the
> formica and a 7" circular saw to cut through the rest. I cut it from
> the top. The result was passable, but I think it could have been
> better.
>
> I'm wondering what other ways there might be to go about this. I was
> considering using a router to make a shallow cut through the formica,
> then follow it with a circular saw.
>
> I plan to finish off the ends with 1x2 oak by the way.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Greg Guarino
G'day Greg,
Score along the cut-off line. Cut 5 or 6mm proud of the line 9The waste
side. Use planer to trim down to the cut of line. All fixed :)
regards
John
On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 04:08:45 GMT, John B
<[email protected]> wrote:
>G'day Greg,
>Score along the cut-off line. Cut 5 or 6mm proud of the line 9The waste
>side. Use planer to trim down to the cut of line. All fixed :)
I haven't got a planer, although your idea does otherwise sound like a
good plan. Do you lend your tools to strangers? (in New York?) :)
Greg Guarino
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 01:03:45 -0400, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>>>I'm wondering what other ways there might be to go about this. I was
>>>considering using a router to make a shallow cut through the formica,
>>>then follow it with a circular saw.
>>
>>Cut it close to 1/4" or 1/2" with the power saw and then finish it off with
>>a straightedge and a router.
>>
>
> As I replied to someone else, how deep can a router be reasonably
> expected to cut? The piece is an inch and a half thick. What router
> bit would you get for this task? I've only got a couple, none of
> which will suit this application.
>
> I'm guessing that the reason people are suggesting using the router
> for the whole cut is so there's just one setup, guaranteeing
> precision. But I lose that if I have to do half the cut from each
> side, don't I?
>
> Greg Guarino
Greg,
Straight cutting router bits come in lengths up to 2" tho probably not
in 1/4" shank. You can use them on thicker pieces by using pattern bits
(straight bits with a bearing on top) and flush trimming bits (straight
bits with a bearing on the bottom). Regular straight bits (with or
without bearings) are much cheaper than the solid carbide spiral bits.
Unless you are willing to spend some money on a bit or three, I'd just
use your 7" saw with a good fine tooth blade and a straight edge guide,
cutting from the back. Pre-score the cut line to reduce chipout. On
the other hand, it is a reason to add to your router bit collection. =)
Jess.S
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 03:46:43 GMT, "Leon"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Do all the cutting with the router bit in several passes.
>>
> Hmmm. The piece is 1.5" thick. Do router bits exist that are that
> long?
Yes. Here's an example:
<http://www.westerntool.com/product.htm?pid=502711>
> And if they do, wouldn't they probably be a larger diameter
> (plowing out more material) than one would ideally want?
Any diameter bit can remove as little or as much as you want.
I cut and square the ends of table and counter tops on a regular basis
in three easy steps:
- Mark the cut line
- Cut to within 3/8-1/2" of the cut line with a circular, jig, or hand saw.
- Clamp a straight edge (jointed wood, angle iron, spirit level, etc...)
to the top in a location where the bit will remove 1/4" or so, as the
router base slides along the straight edge. Make two passes, with the
second ending exactly at the cut line.
- (optional) Enjoy your perfect edge.