[email protected] wrote:
> David wrote:
>
>>LV doesn't have one. Lie-Nielsen carries one for $185. Anyone here
>>have one? If yes, please comment on it's usefulness. any other
>>currently available side shoulder planes you know of?
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> Are you talking about the side rabbett plane set, or the skew block
> plane with the removable side?
>
> I have the latter and use it all the time for trimming tenons and such.
> I like it and would buy
> it again.
>
side rabbet plane, Brian. I gave the wrong description initially.
Dave
Assuming you mean a side rabbet plane, there are a few currently
available on ebay - search for Stanley 98 or 99. It looks like an
interesting tool, but at the risk of exposing my ignorance, can you
share what you intend to use it for? It seems like a shoulder plane or
a chisel (cranked neck?) would accomplish the same thing if you're
trying to clean up a rabbet - what am I missing?
Thanks for enlightening me,
Andy
David wrote:
> LV doesn't have one. Lie-Nielsen carries one for $185. Anyone here
> have one? If yes, please comment on it's usefulness. any other
> currently available side shoulder planes you know of?
>
> Dave
Are you talking about the side rabbett plane set, or the skew block
plane with the removable side?
I have the latter and use it all the time for trimming tenons and such.
I like it and would buy
it again.
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 20:48:31 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> The single-sided ones are awkward to sharpen and hard to adjust. The
> double sided ones are a nightmare to adjust ! Many people reckon you
> can't ever adjust both sides to cut well simultaneously.
All too true!
I have a single sided Stanley (hardly ever used). The cutting edges are so
angled so that they have quite sharp points. The principal problem is that
when a blade is set to cut properly, the point protrudes beyond the sole and
digs in.
As far as I can see, the way to set such gadgets is to run the sole along an
oilstone just enough to blunt the point to stop it trying to dig in yet
having just sufficient projection (as with a normal shoulder/rebate plane)
to ensure that the corner is cleaned out.
The small amount of 'sole' is a distinct disadvantage when trying to align
the plane at the start of a cut. Furthermore, habitual backward strokes can
have unwanted effects!
Prevention better than cure?
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> I'm not sure what you are talking about. Do you mean a side rabbet plane?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
> doh! yes.
So what exactly is unclear in your mind? The write-up says it all. The
alternative is to adjust the thickness of the tenon which goes into the
dado. You do shoulder as a matter of course for rack resistance, don't you?
LV makes a nice shoulder plane.
"BillyBob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> don't be pedantic. The post turned about to be about a requirement that a
> shoulder plane will not accomplish. That's why I asked.
>
Well, you're wrong, as you may have read. Not that it would bother someone
who's so involved in himself as you.
Bray on....
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 17:02:01 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I don't get to have ALL the cool "unplugged" stuff,
>
>
> There's still plenty of "cool" unplugged stuff before you descend to the
> once-in-a-blue-moon uselessness of these side rebate planes.
>
> Have you got a lightweight European (German) wooden scrub plane with a
> big horn front handle yet ? Now they're wonderful fun for releasing
> the inner galoot.
No, Andy, I don't have any type of scrub plane.
Dave
Jeff Gorman wrote:
> "Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 20:48:31 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>The single-sided ones are awkward to sharpen and hard to adjust. The
>>double sided ones are a nightmare to adjust ! Many people reckon you
>>can't ever adjust both sides to cut well simultaneously.
>
>
> All too true!
>
> I have a single sided Stanley (hardly ever used). The cutting edges are so
> angled so that they have quite sharp points. The principal problem is that
> when a blade is set to cut properly, the point protrudes beyond the sole and
> digs in.
>
> As far as I can see, the way to set such gadgets is to run the sole along an
> oilstone just enough to blunt the point to stop it trying to dig in yet
> having just sufficient projection (as with a normal shoulder/rebate plane)
> to ensure that the corner is cleaned out.
>
> The small amount of 'sole' is a distinct disadvantage when trying to align
> the plane at the start of a cut. Furthermore, habitual backward strokes can
> have unwanted effects!
>
> Prevention better than cure?
>
> Jeff G
>
Thanks for the input, Jeff. Your observations speak to my concerns
about the efficacy of such a tool. I'm not going to pursue further
thoughts of buying one.
Dave
BillyBob wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>LV doesn't have one. Lie-Nielsen carries one for $185. Anyone here
>>have one? If yes, please comment on it's usefulness. any other
>>currently available side shoulder planes you know of?
>
>
> Note that the $185 price is for two planes - a left hand and right hand. I
> think they used to sell these individually, but apparently do not anymore.
> You may be able to find them individually at retail dealers.
>
> In my view, its better to cut the dado or groove right to start with. This
> is fairly straighforward to do if you using a router or dado blade and you
> make test cuts first. I noted the post from someone who actually owns this
> type of plane and they did not recommend it. The fact that they are not
> widely manufactured any more ought to say something. These seem like one of
> those purchase you make when you just can't figure out where to spend money
> on new tools - like the guy who bought every jig Tormek makes just because
> they were there.
>
> Bob
>
>
You make an excellent point. I had no idea if the side rabbet plane is
something every self respecting Neander would have. I just recently saw
it in a catalog. I do NOT believe in owning every tool; just the ones
that are practical for me.
Maybe the fact that the aren't too common explains why LV doesn't make
one. :)
dave
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 09:49:59 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I had no idea if the side rabbet plane is
>>something every self respecting Neander would have.
>
>
> Over the mantelpiece though, not out on the bench.
I've given up the idea for getting one (you know how us WW'rs get near
Christmas time--if we don't give our loved ones a list of goodies to buy
us, they might get something decidedly UN-TOOL-LIKE) after hearing here
that it isn't a common tool for a Neander to own. I'm only
part-Neander, so I don't get to have ALL the cool "unplugged" stuff, but
I'd like to have the necessities.
Dave
George wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>>>I'm not sure what you are talking about. Do you mean a side rabbet plane?
>>>
>>>Bob
>>>
>>>
>>
>>doh! yes.
>
>
> So what exactly is unclear in your mind? The write-up says it all. The
> alternative is to adjust the thickness of the tenon which goes into the
> dado. You do shoulder as a matter of course for rack resistance, don't you?
> LV makes a nice shoulder plane.
>
>
I have both their shoulder planes.
What's unclear is the design. The pictures are piss poor.
dave
Andy Dingley wrote:
> On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 20:48:31 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Anyone here have one?
>
>
> I've got an old Preston, the double sided version.
>
> It's very little use. Of the few times it would have been useful, it was
> too wide to fit into the tiny groove I was working of. For bigger
> grooves (anything drawer-bottom sized) it's just easier to make the
> grrove fit in the first place, by having a properly ground iron in the
> #43.
>
> The single-sided ones are awkward to sharpen and hard to adjust. The
> double sided ones are a nightmare to adjust ! Many people reckon you
> can't ever adjust both sides to cut well simultaneously.
>
> I think it might have some use for on-site fitting work, easing
> already-made pieces that have stopped working owing to damp weather or
> whatever. As a tool for building with, it's of very little use. I
> certainly wouldn't pay $180 for one.
>
thanks, Andy, that's the sort of input I was looking for. It sounds
like a PITA.
Dave
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 08:55:18 -0000, "Jeff Gorman"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 20:48:31 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>The single-sided ones are awkward to sharpen and hard to adjust. The
>>>double sided ones are a nightmare to adjust ! Many people reckon you
>>>can't ever adjust both sides to cut well simultaneously.
>>
>>All too true!
>>
>>I have a single sided Stanley (hardly ever used). The cutting edges are so
>>angled so that they have quite sharp points. The principal problem is that
>>when a blade is set to cut properly, the point protrudes beyond the sole and
>>digs in.
>>
>>As far as I can see, the way to set such gadgets is to run the sole along an
>>oilstone just enough to blunt the point to stop it trying to dig in yet
>>having just sufficient projection (as with a normal shoulder/rebate plane)
>>to ensure that the corner is cleaned out.
>>
>>The small amount of 'sole' is a distinct disadvantage when trying to align
>>the plane at the start of a cut. Furthermore, habitual backward strokes can
>>have unwanted effects!
>>
>>Prevention better than cure?
>>
>>Jeff G
>
>
>
> last time I needed to widen a rebate I made a specialty base for my
> laminate trimmer.
>
> a shoulder plane is on my list, however...
I use either my dado blade or straight bits on my router table. Having
an Incra Fence allows me to make adjustments to .001 with a micro
adjuster. I ALSO like using Neander tools too, which is why I'm buying
more and more of them...
Dave
"George" <George@least> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> >> I'm not sure what you are talking about. Do you mean a side rabbet
plane?
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >>
> > doh! yes.
>
> So what exactly is unclear in your mind? The write-up says it all. The
> alternative is to adjust the thickness of the tenon which goes into the
> dado. You do shoulder as a matter of course for rack resistance, don't
you?
> LV makes a nice shoulder plane.
don't be pedantic. The post turned about to be about a requirement that a
shoulder plane will not accomplish. That's why I asked.
Bob
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> LV doesn't have one. Lie-Nielsen carries one for $185. Anyone here
> have one? If yes, please comment on it's usefulness. any other
> currently available side shoulder planes you know of?
I'm not sure what you are talking about. Do you mean a side rabbet plane?
Bob
On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 09:49:59 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>I had no idea if the side rabbet plane is
>something every self respecting Neander would have.
Over the mantelpiece though, not out on the bench.
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> LV doesn't have one. Lie-Nielsen carries one for $185. Anyone here
> have one? If yes, please comment on it's usefulness. any other
> currently available side shoulder planes you know of?
Note that the $185 price is for two planes - a left hand and right hand. I
think they used to sell these individually, but apparently do not anymore.
You may be able to find them individually at retail dealers.
In my view, its better to cut the dado or groove right to start with. This
is fairly straighforward to do if you using a router or dado blade and you
make test cuts first. I noted the post from someone who actually owns this
type of plane and they did not recommend it. The fact that they are not
widely manufactured any more ought to say something. These seem like one of
those purchase you make when you just can't figure out where to spend money
on new tools - like the guy who bought every jig Tormek makes just because
they were there.
Bob
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 17:02:01 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>I don't get to have ALL the cool "unplugged" stuff,
There's still plenty of "cool" unplugged stuff before you descend to the
once-in-a-blue-moon uselessness of these side rebate planes.
Have you got a lightweight European (German) wooden scrub plane with a
big horn front handle yet ? Now they're wonderful fun for releasing
the inner galoot.
On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 20:48:31 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>Anyone here have one?
I've got an old Preston, the double sided version.
It's very little use. Of the few times it would have been useful, it was
too wide to fit into the tiny groove I was working of. For bigger
grooves (anything drawer-bottom sized) it's just easier to make the
grrove fit in the first place, by having a properly ground iron in the
#43.
The single-sided ones are awkward to sharpen and hard to adjust. The
double sided ones are a nightmare to adjust ! Many people reckon you
can't ever adjust both sides to cut well simultaneously.
I think it might have some use for on-site fitting work, easing
already-made pieces that have stopped working owing to damp weather or
whatever. As a tool for building with, it's of very little use. I
certainly wouldn't pay $180 for one.
On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 08:55:18 -0000, "Jeff Gorman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 20:48:31 -0800, David <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> The single-sided ones are awkward to sharpen and hard to adjust. The
>> double sided ones are a nightmare to adjust ! Many people reckon you
>> can't ever adjust both sides to cut well simultaneously.
>
>All too true!
>
>I have a single sided Stanley (hardly ever used). The cutting edges are so
>angled so that they have quite sharp points. The principal problem is that
>when a blade is set to cut properly, the point protrudes beyond the sole and
>digs in.
>
>As far as I can see, the way to set such gadgets is to run the sole along an
>oilstone just enough to blunt the point to stop it trying to dig in yet
>having just sufficient projection (as with a normal shoulder/rebate plane)
>to ensure that the corner is cleaned out.
>
>The small amount of 'sole' is a distinct disadvantage when trying to align
>the plane at the start of a cut. Furthermore, habitual backward strokes can
>have unwanted effects!
>
>Prevention better than cure?
>
>Jeff G
last time I needed to widen a rebate I made a specialty base for my
laminate trimmer.
a shoulder plane is on my list, however...
Andy wrote:
> Assuming you mean a side rabbet plane, there are a few currently
> available on ebay - search for Stanley 98 or 99. It looks like an
> interesting tool, but at the risk of exposing my ignorance, can you
> share what you intend to use it for? It seems like a shoulder plane or
> a chisel (cranked neck?) would accomplish the same thing if you're
> trying to clean up a rabbet - what am I missing?
> Thanks for enlightening me,
> Andy
>
a tool for widening the rabbet, rather than cleaning out the bottom.
dave
BillyBob wrote:
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>LV doesn't have one. Lie-Nielsen carries one for $185. Anyone here
>>have one? If yes, please comment on it's usefulness. any other
>>currently available side shoulder planes you know of?
>
>
>
> I'm not sure what you are talking about. Do you mean a side rabbet plane?
>
> Bob
>
>
doh! yes.
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> Have you got a lightweight European (German) wooden scrub plane with a
> big horn front handle yet ? Now they're wonderful fun for releasing
> the inner galoot.
A very nice tool, but I had to add to mine (a fle-market buy) a hand
protector, otherwise I ended up hurting thumb and index finger of the
right hand in exerting the necessary force.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23