I was pondering whether to buy one of these,but how does it work on a
router table?when the depth is normally set by standing it on the base
plate of the router.
Is it the same process but standing it on the table surface and
lifting/lowering the router till the tip of the blade touches ruler?
I'm talking about the trend depth gauge.
Thanks
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
I'm thinkin' UK where all routers are plungers?
See poorman's (very precise) depth gage at the
http://patwarner.com/images/6182_6.jpg link.
Notwithstanding its accuracy, all first cuts are essentially guess
cuts. You may think you know where the cutter will cut but measuring
the work is the gold standard.
Now the question is how accurate can you make that change of depth of
cut to get your target depth. Plungers can hit that on the money with a
feeler gage, drill bit shank or whatever has been ground to spec.
http://www.patwarner.com (Routers)
_____________________________________________________
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> I was pondering whether to buy one of these,but how does it work on a
> router table?when the depth is normally set by standing it on the base
> plate of the router.
>
> Is it the same process but standing it on the table surface and
> lifting/lowering the router till the tip of the blade touches ruler?
>
> I'm talking about the trend depth gauge.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> --
> Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
"The3rd Earl Of Derby"
>I was pondering whether to buy one of these,but how does it work on a
> router table?when the depth is normally set by standing it on the base
> plate of the router.
>
> Is it the same process but standing it on the table surface and
> lifting/lowering the router till the tip of the blade touches ruler?
>
> I'm talking about the trend depth gauge.
>
> Thanks
> --
> Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
>
Starrett Combination Square is the tool you need for this operation.
Calipers or a dial indicator mounted on a block also perform perfectly.
Dave
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Bruce Barnett wrote:
> "Teamcasa" <[email protected]> writes:
>
> > Starrett Combination Square is the tool you need for this operation.
> > Calipers or a dial indicator mounted on a block also perform perfectly.
>
> I'd use a 4" Double Square. That sucker's handy!
That's what I use. I set it to the depth I want, set it on the ruler
end and raise the bit/cutter until the top tip just nicks the head. I
then make a test cut, but it's usually within a 32nd.
The more difficult task for me is adjusting the width of cut,
especially on the shaper. This is where a tool like the Trend Depth
Gauge could really shine. Set your fences dead straight with each
other, set the gauge to the depth you want, then butt the fence back
until the outside tip of the cutter just nicks the ruler. I'd imagine
you could get it within the same 32nd right out of the gate.
Unfortunately it doesn't look like the Trend gauge has the necessary
width to handle most shaper cutters.
I wonder if anyone makes a similar gauge with "feet" that are set wider
apart and perhaps a little bit larger overall... That would be
timesaver for me for sure.
JP
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
> > The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> >
> > > How does that work? I do have a digital caliper thats spot on
> > accurate.
> >
> > Good use for scrap.
> >
> > Make a cut, measure it, adjust as required.
> >
> > Lew
>
> I see, I'd rather adjust the router in one go rather
> than...cut,measure,adjust,cut measure,adjust.
in theory, you can do that. just calibrate the plunge bars and the bit
landing before you start....
in practise, you might be able to rig something up with a dial
indicator, but leaving it set up all of the time on the router while
running seems like a bad idea; dust and vibration and all that, and
setup and takedown time is a bit much for each cut.
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > in practise, you might be able to rig something up with a dial
> > indicator, but leaving it set up all of the time on the router while
> > running seems like a bad idea; dust and vibration and all that, and
> > setup and takedown time is a bit much for each cut.
> >
CW wrote:
> With an easyly made fixture for the indicator, it would be a matter of
> seconds to set up. It would also be portable.
yeh. I have several such fixtures... as often as not I'll make a
one-off for a given operation. mostly I make 'em quick and dirty and
reuse the parts I don't pitch when it's done. some have proven more
portable than others. probably something like Ed Bennett's device would
be most portable, but I've never been able to justify the cash outlay
for one.
don't get me wrong- indicators are great tools for machinery setup. but
for general application in adjusting a router they are a bit fussy and
overkill. I use one sometimes for adjusting the router table fence,
especially in situations where I need to make numerous small
adjustments including being able to come back to zero between non-zero
settings. there the indicator works a treat.
for adjusting a router for handheld use it seems like a pain, though.
"Ken" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have one of these and don't like it. It is very difficult to read.
>
> For my router I use a set of brass bars of differing heights.
> For me it is more accurate to feel when the tip of the bit is
> at the top of a half inch brass bar than checking the ruler for
> a half inch.
>
I use the brass key stock too and find it works well. But I also found that
a set of allen wrenches works and provides a wide range of sizes, by 32nds
and 64ths.
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com
I have one of these and don't like it. It is very difficult to read.
For my router I use a set of brass bars of differing heights.
For me it is more accurate to feel when the tip of the bit is
at the top of a half inch brass bar than checking the ruler for
a half inch.
I also use my combination square the same way the trend gauge
is supposed to be used.
"The3rd Earl Of Derby" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I was pondering whether to buy one of these,but how does it work on a
> router table?when the depth is normally set by standing it on the base
> plate of the router.
>
> Is it the same process but standing it on the table surface and
> lifting/lowering the router till the tip of the blade touches ruler?
Yes
>
> I'm talking about the trend depth gauge.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> --
> Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
>
>
"The3rd Earl Of Derby" <[email protected]> writes:
>CW wrote:
>> Man, that's brilliant! We could call it a ruler!
>>
>> "The3rd Earl Of Derby" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I've had a think and all it takes is a bit of wood with increments
>>> of half inch steps at one end, increments of 1/8th steps in the
>>> middle and 1/16th steps at the other end, marked on the wood.
>>> Position the wood against the fence and move the fence near to the
>>> router bit in question and adjust the height.
>We could :-P but the difference is I have difficulty in concentrating on
>small increments on a ruler basically because its silver in colour with
>black segements whereas a piece of wood is whitish background plus I'm
>segregating the segements of a ruler.
...so, you're suggesting a ruler made of ... wood?
Hmmm. I wonder if there's a patent on that. Have to check.
:-)
[email protected] (in
[email protected]) said:
| in practise, you might be able to rig something up with a dial
| indicator, but leaving it set up all of the time on the router while
| running seems like a bad idea; dust and vibration and all that, and
| setup and takedown time is a bit much for each cut.
It's easy with a 1-2-3 block and calipers or depth gauge. I've posted
a pair of photos to ABPW showing the fastest/easiest method I've
found.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> > I was pondering whether to buy one of these,but how does it work
> on a > router table?when the depth is normally set by standing it on
> the base > plate of the router.
>
> If you have a 6" dial caliper, why bother?
>
> Lew
How does that work? I do have a digital caliper thats spot on accurate.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> No offence like.
>
> I've had a think and all it takes is a bit of wood with increments
of half
> inch steps at one end, increments of 1/8th steps in the middle and
1/16th
> steps at the other end, marked on the wood.
> Position the wood against the fence and move the fence near to the
router
> bit in question and adjust the height.
And then comes the test cut, usually on a piece of scrap.
Lew
CW wrote:
> Man, that's brilliant! We could call it a ruler!
>
> "The3rd Earl Of Derby" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I've had a think and all it takes is a bit of wood with increments
>> of half inch steps at one end, increments of 1/8th steps in the
>> middle and 1/16th steps at the other end, marked on the wood.
>> Position the wood against the fence and move the fence near to the
>> router bit in question and adjust the height.
We could :-P but the difference is I have difficulty in concentrating on
small increments on a ruler basically because its silver in colour with
black segements whereas a piece of wood is whitish background plus I'm
segregating the segements of a ruler.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
>
> > No offence like.
> >
> > I've had a think and all it takes is a bit of wood with increments
> of half
> > inch steps at one end, increments of 1/8th steps in the middle and
> 1/16th
> > steps at the other end, marked on the wood.
> > Position the wood against the fence and move the fence near to the
> router
> > bit in question and adjust the height.
>
> And then comes the test cut, usually on a piece of scrap.
>
> Lew
True,but if the increments are a fine line and are accurate in spacing,only
one test cut is needed to verify its accuracy without having to have it
niggling the head in future cutting. :-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Man, that's brilliant! We could call it a ruler!
"The3rd Earl Of Derby" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've had a think and all it takes is a bit of wood with increments of half
> inch steps at one end, increments of 1/8th steps in the middle and 1/16th
> steps at the other end, marked on the wood.
> Position the wood against the fence and move the fence near to the router
> bit in question and adjust the height.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
>
> > How does that work? I do have a digital caliper thats spot on
> accurate.
>
> Good use for scrap.
>
> Make a cut, measure it, adjust as required.
>
> Lew
I see, I'd rather adjust the router in one go rather
than...cut,measure,adjust,cut measure,adjust.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
With an easyly made fixture for the indicator, it would be a matter of
seconds to set up. It would also be portable.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> in practise, you might be able to rig something up with a dial
> indicator, but leaving it set up all of the time on the router while
> running seems like a bad idea; dust and vibration and all that, and
> setup and takedown time is a bit much for each cut.
>
I posted a couple of photos of a homebrew height gauge over on the
binaries group. It took three tries to get both photos to post,
sorry.
Regards,
Ed
On Sun, 13 Aug 2006 20:01:15 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>With an easyly made fixture for the indicator, it would be a matter of
>seconds to set up. It would also be portable.
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> in practise, you might be able to rig something up with a dial
>> indicator, but leaving it set up all of the time on the router while
>> running seems like a bad idea; dust and vibration and all that, and
>> setup and takedown time is a bit much for each cut.
>>
>
On Fri, 11 Aug 2006 17:25:17 GMT, The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> I was pondering whether to buy one of these,but how does it work on a
> router table?when the depth is normally set by standing it on the base
> plate of the router.
>
> Is it the same process but standing it on the table surface and
> lifting/lowering the router till the tip of the blade touches ruler?
>
> I'm talking about the trend depth gauge.
>
> Thanks
>
Yes, that's it exactly. I have one of these (from Axminster). It
seems fine to me. The accuracy is limited to your ability to read the
tick marks on the ruler. It has both imperial and metric measurements.
Pete
--
..........................................................................
. never trust a man who, when left alone ...... Pete Lynch .
. in a room with a tea cosy ...... Marlow, England .
. doesn't try it on (Billy Connolly) .....................................
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
>
> >
> > I see, I'd rather adjust the router in one go rather
> > than...cut,measure,adjust,cut measure,adjust.
> >
>
> What ever floats your boat.
>
> Lew
No offence like.
I've had a think and all it takes is a bit of wood with increments of half
inch steps at one end, increments of 1/8th steps in the middle and 1/16th
steps at the other end, marked on the wood.
Position the wood against the fence and move the fence near to the router
bit in question and adjust the height.
:-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> writes:
> Starrett Combination Square is the tool you need for this operation.
> Calipers or a dial indicator mounted on a block also perform perfectly.
I'd use a 4" Double Square. That sucker's handy!
--
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