I bought a used JT360. He says he only used it once, but the knives were so
far out of alignment that I doubt he could have done even that.
Unfortunately he stored it in his garage without any wax, and it developed a
little surface rust. 99% of it came off in minutes with a little steel
wool. The rest is a hint of orange down in the grain. I expect I can get
that out with some vinegar, but would prefer not to get it wet. Is it okay
to leave it and just wax over it, or must I clean it all out first?
Since you are probably dying to know, it was $200 with a jointer pal thrown
in. Not really a gloat, but not bad. I will probably be back in a few days
to ask how to use the jointer pal, but am asking Woodstock for the
instructions first.
I agree.
Dave
> > Get something like the BoeShielf RustOff (or whatever the product name
> > is, use that to get the deep down rust gone, wipe with clean water,
> > then mineral spirits, then dry it off good and THEN wax it
> >
> Gosh, I wanted to be told to ignore it...
> But I am sure your are right; thanks
>
>
I have one for my Jet 6CSX. The jig works great, my problem is finding Top
Dead Center - "TDC". I think it's more a lack of experience with machinery
than anything else. The jig itself works great - it holds the kinves firmly
in alignment and makes tightening the bolts very easy. Well worth the cost.
Nick B
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 01:34:55 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> >Since you are probably dying to know, it was $200 with a jointer pal
thrown
> >in. Not really a gloat, but not bad. I will probably be back in a few
days
> >to ask how to use the jointer pal, but am asking Woodstock for the
> >instructions first.
>
> Those things are great. It's one of the few commercial jigs that I
> felt was worth prying the wallet open for.
>
> Barry
On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 01:34:55 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Since you are probably dying to know, it was $200 with a jointer pal thrown
>in. Not really a gloat, but not bad. I will probably be back in a few days
>to ask how to use the jointer pal, but am asking Woodstock for the
>instructions first.
Those things are great. It's one of the few commercial jigs that I
felt was worth prying the wallet open for.
Barry
On 25-Aug-2004, John <[email protected]> wrote:
> Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting
> under the wax
Rust isn't some kind of living thing that grows. If you seal over it,
it will stop. Rust is what you get when you mix oxygen and iron.
Water helps to catalyse the reaction. Eliminate the O2 and rust stops.
Eliminate the water but not the O2, and it slows down a lot. Reduce
the temperature and it slows down. Increase the temp and it increases.
Mike
> Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting
> under the wax
>
> Get something like the BoeShielf RustOff (or whatever the product name
> is, use that to get the deep down rust gone, wipe with clean water,
> then mineral spirits, then dry it off good and THEN wax it
>
Gosh, I wanted to be told to ignore it...
But I am sure your are right; thanks
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Unfortunately he stored it in his garage without any wax, and it developed
a
> little surface rust. 99% of it came off in minutes with a little steel
> wool. The rest is a hint of orange down in the grain. I expect I can get
> that out with some vinegar, but would prefer not to get it wet.
I've had good luck with Top Saver. Sprays on and can get right to the rust.
Ed
Michael Daly wrote:
> On 25-Aug-2004, John <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting
>> under the wax
>
> Rust isn't some kind of living thing that grows. If you seal over it,
> it will stop. Rust is what you get when you mix oxygen and iron.
> Water helps to catalyse the reaction. Eliminate the O2 and rust stops.
> Eliminate the water but not the O2, and it slows down a lot. Reduce
> the temperature and it slows down. Increase the temp and it increases.
If there is salt on the metal then it needs to be removed or it will
continue to attract water and cause rust. Salt can get on it from a
variety of sources--in coastal areas it's airborne. IMO, best to assume
there is salt and play safe.
>
> Mike
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Thanks Barry - see, that's what I mean by lack of experience. I never even
thought to try something like that!
Nick B
"B a r r y" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 16:57:38 GMT, "Nick Bozovich" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >I have one for my Jet 6CSX. The jig works great, my problem is finding
Top
> >Dead Center - "TDC".
>
> With the machine unplugged, do the following:
>
> Set a metal straight edge on edge and rotate the cutter head until a
> knife JUST touches the edge. Precisely mark that spot on the fence.
>
> Continue to rotate the cutter head until the same knife loses contact
> with the edge. Mark this spot on the fence.
>
> The exact center between the two lines is TDC. Scribe that line on
> the fence for future use.
>
> There may be better or easier ways, but this has work well for me.
>
> Barry
On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 01:34:55 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought a used JT360. He says he only used it once, but the knives were so
>far out of alignment that I doubt he could have done even that.
>
>Unfortunately he stored it in his garage without any wax, and it developed a
>little surface rust. 99% of it came off in minutes with a little steel
>wool. The rest is a hint of orange down in the grain. I expect I can get
>that out with some vinegar, but would prefer not to get it wet. Is it okay
>to leave it and just wax over it, or must I clean it all out first?
>
>Since you are probably dying to know, it was $200 with a jointer pal thrown
>in. Not really a gloat, but not bad. I will probably be back in a few days
>to ask how to use the jointer pal, but am asking Woodstock for the
>instructions first.
>
wax it. use it.
amen
--
Ross
www.myoldtools.com
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >"Naval Jelly". and it's not a gel.... I got mine at one of the big-box
> >hardware stores.
>
>
> Naval Jelly will turn a nice patina into something you
> really won't want to look at very much anymore.
>
> UA100
<< Subject: Re: Is any rust acceptable?
From: [email protected]
Date: Thu, Aug 26, 2004 6:22 AM
Message-id: <[email protected]>
On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 01:34:55 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought a used JT360. He says he only used it once, but the knives were so
>far out of alignment that I doubt he could have done even that.
>
>Unfortunately he stored it in his garage without any wax, and it developed a
>little surface rust. 99% of it came off in minutes with a little steel
>wool. The rest is a hint of orange down in the grain. I expect I can get
>that out with some vinegar, but would prefer not to get it wet. Is it okay
>to leave it and just wax over it, or must I clean it all out first?
>
>Since you are probably dying to know, it was $200 with a jointer pal thrown
>in. Not really a gloat, but not bad. I will probably be back in a few days
>to ask how to use the jointer pal, but am asking Woodstock for the
>instructions first.
>
wax it. use it.
>>
I've used a product, which neutralizes, or inhibits rust. It's a wipe on,
which turns the rust black. I first used it when repairing rusty car fenders,
back in the day. Any auto parts store should have it.
Curt Blood
<snip>
>I've used a product, which neutralizes, or inhibits rust. It's a wipe on,
>which turns the rust black. I first used it when repairing rusty car fenders,
>back in the day. Any auto parts store should have it.
>
>
>
"Naval Jelly". and it's not a gel.... I got mine at one of the big-box
hardware stores.
--
Andrew Resnick, Ph.D.
Department of Physiology and Biophysics
CWRU School of Medicine
In article <[email protected]>,
Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> writes:
> Naval Jelly will turn a nice patina into something you
> really won't want to look at very much anymore.
IIRC, you use naval jelly followed by a thorough sanding. Then
it's bondo time followed by more sanding and a trip to the
paint shop ... and viola! you have a 1972 Vega that looks like
your teenage brother helped with the body work. (Blechh!!!)
Oops! Did I drift off-topic?
At any rate, any rust/discoloration left after a scrubbing with
#0000 steel wool and mineral spirits isn't worth bothering
about (unless you started with a barge full of rust).
Bottom line: if you feel naval jelly is necessary, perhaps it's
time to reconsider the machine's status as tool or anchor. :)
--
Jeff Thunder
Dept. of Mathematical Sciences
Northern Illinois Univ.
jthunder at math dot niu dot edu
In article <[email protected]>, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought a used JT360. He says he only used it once, but the knives were so
>far out of alignment that I doubt he could have done even that.
>
>Unfortunately he stored it in his garage without any wax, and it developed a
>little surface rust. 99% of it came off in minutes with a little steel
>wool. The rest is a hint of orange down in the grain. I expect I can get
>that out with some vinegar, but would prefer not to get it wet. Is it okay
>to leave it and just wax over it, or must I clean it all out first?
See if you can get it out using 400 wet-or-dry sandpaper, over a wooden block,
with mineral spirits as the lubricant.
If not, don't worry about it: as long as it doesn't get wet, it won't spread.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 16:57:38 GMT, "Nick Bozovich" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have one for my Jet 6CSX. The jig works great, my problem is finding Top
>Dead Center - "TDC".
With the machine unplugged, do the following:
Set a metal straight edge on edge and rotate the cutter head until a
knife JUST touches the edge. Precisely mark that spot on the fence.
Continue to rotate the cutter head until the same knife loses contact
with the edge. Mark this spot on the fence.
The exact center between the two lines is TDC. Scribe that line on
the fence for future use.
There may be better or easier ways, but this has work well for me.
Barry
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, John
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting
> Oh, phooey, it won't either. Rust requires both water and oxygen to grow.
It's
Anyone else get Neil Young popping in their head?
Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting
under the wax
Get something like the BoeShielf RustOff (or whatever the product name
is, use that to get the deep down rust gone, wipe with clean water,
then mineral spirits, then dry it off good and THEN wax it
John
On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 01:34:55 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I bought a used JT360. He says he only used it once, but the knives were so
>far out of alignment that I doubt he could have done even that.
>
>Unfortunately he stored it in his garage without any wax, and it developed a
>little surface rust. 99% of it came off in minutes with a little steel
>wool. The rest is a hint of orange down in the grain. I expect I can get
>that out with some vinegar, but would prefer not to get it wet. Is it okay
>to leave it and just wax over it, or must I clean it all out first?
>
>Since you are probably dying to know, it was $200 with a jointer pal thrown
>in. Not really a gloat, but not bad. I will probably be back in a few days
>to ask how to use the jointer pal, but am asking Woodstock for the
>instructions first.
>
In article <[email protected]>, John <[email protected]> wrote:
>Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting
>under the wax
>
Oh, phooey, it won't either. Rust requires both water and oxygen to grow. It's
pretty tough to block oxygen, but not so hard to block water. Keep it dry, and
the rust won't spread.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
Phooey?? PHOOEY!!! you said PHOOEY???
Whatever is the wreck coming to?
In the good old days there were MANY more descriptive expressions much more
colorful than PHOOEY.
Harumph!
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, John
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >Rust never sleeps. If you wax OVER rust, it will just keep on rusting
> >under the wax
> >
> Oh, phooey, it won't either. Rust requires both water and oxygen to grow.
It's
> pretty tough to block oxygen, but not so hard to block water. Keep it dry,
and
> the rust won't spread.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>
> Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
> by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
> You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
>
>