[email protected] wrote:
> have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
> however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
>
I usually use the drill press to drill a perfect hole in a scrap block
several inches thick. Next, I use the block to guide the bit until it's
established in the post. To finish up, I drill the established hole to
the correct depth without the guide block.
This is also a great way to make "production" depth stops.
> Doesn't your drill press have a swivel head?
>
> --
> Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
If it's still too long for the swivel head, and drilling by hand isn't
accurate enough, you can make a plunge router sub-base with 2x4 blocks
screwed to it, and the blocks can be clamped to the post. Then plunge
the router (with appropriate plunge-cutting bit, or pre-drilled by hand
with a smaller diam drill bit) as far as it will go into the end of the
post. If this router hole isn't deep enough, it should serve as a
fairly effective guide for drilling deeper with a forstner bit.
I recently faced the same situation while drilling 3/4" holes into the
end of 82" long bed rails, and this router jig worked well for me.
I'll attempt a little ASCII art diagram, but feel free to let me know
if you'd like a photo or a better description. The { U } represents
your router base with a round-nose router bit, ## is your workpiece.
___{__U__}____
[_]#####[_]
#####
#####
#####
(here's another try started with a monospace font, and the "bit"
plunged into the workpiece)
___{__U__}____
[_]##U##[_]
#####
#####
#####
Hope this helps,
Andy
[email protected] wrote:
> have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
> however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
This is one of the reasons I didn't get rid of my old Shopsmith. Set it
up as a horizontal boring machine, and bore away.
Other functions, I use it for are, wood lathe, and scroll saw.
The 8" table saw function isn't quite as good as my old Unisaw!!
For the occasional use, it's worth keeping around.
yup, that was it. I found that little set screw that allowed me to
turn the head. Sorry, havent used much drill press before. But thats
definately handy to know!
I just wish my 1" forstner wouldn't take forever to drill! I even
switched the rpm all the up, still seems to take a while...
thanks for the tips!
[email protected] wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> > have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
> >however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> >the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> >or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
> >
>
> On lots of drill presses, the head is retained only by a set screw or
> clamp bolt or 2. If you loosen or remove it you may be able to swing
> the head around so it is not over the base. Likewise, you may be able
> to loosen the base from the column and swing it at that point also.
>
>
> --
> No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
>
> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
I dont think it's carbide. I think its just carbon steel. Should
those be run slower?
the bit was new but i probably have dulled it..?
J. Clarke wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > yup, that was it. I found that little set screw that allowed me to
> > turn the head. Sorry, havent used much drill press before. But thats
> > definately handy to know!
> > I just wish my 1" forstner wouldn't take forever to drill! I even
> > switched the rpm all the up, still seems to take a while...
> > thanks for the tips!
>
> I hope that 's a carbide Forstner. Turning the speed up on steel Forstners,
> especially carbon steel, is a good way to ruin the bit.
>
> If it's cutting slowly odds are that it's dull.
>
> Also, in deep holes Forstners aren't self-clearing--you have to pull them
> out and clear the hole occasionally.
>
> If it's a deep hole you might want to start with a 3/4" auger or twist drill
> and the finish with the Forstner.
>
> > [email protected] wrote:
> >> In article <[email protected]>,
> >> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> > have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
> >> >however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> >> >the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> >> >or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
> >> >
> >>
> >> On lots of drill presses, the head is retained only by a set screw or
> >> clamp bolt or 2. If you loosen or remove it you may be able to swing
> >> the head around so it is not over the base. Likewise, you may be able
> >> to loosen the base from the column and swing it at that point also.
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
> >>
> >> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
> >
[email protected] wrote:
> I dont think it's carbide. I think its just carbon steel. Should
> those be run slower?
> the bit was new but i probably have dulled it..?
they often aren't too sharp from the factory. sharpening is part of
owning them... time to learn something new....
hmm..i never knew....
time to invest in some files i guess. they feel pretty sharp already
though. But I'll definately need to check the speeds via the chart.
My bits didn't come with one.
Thanks for the info!!
J. Clarke wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I dont think it's carbide. I think its just carbon steel. Should
> > those be run slower?
> > the bit was new but i probably have dulled it..?
>
> There should be a speed chart provided with the bits. If not, here's a
> conservative one that also has sharpening procedures <
> http://www.wwch.org/TechData/Forstner_Bit_Speeds.jpg >. These speeds are
> somewhat lower than the "standard" charts. If the one with the bits has
> lower speeds they should be followed. The bits may also be marked with
> maximum speeds.
>
> If it's carbon steel then be very careful with the speed--they can be
> overheated easily--if the metal has turned blue then the bit is ruined, just
> like a chisel that has been ground too aggressively.
>
> > J. Clarke wrote:
> >> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > yup, that was it. I found that little set screw that allowed me to
> >> > turn the head. Sorry, havent used much drill press before. But thats
> >> > definately handy to know!
> >> > I just wish my 1" forstner wouldn't take forever to drill! I even
> >> > switched the rpm all the up, still seems to take a while...
> >> > thanks for the tips!
> >>
> >> I hope that 's a carbide Forstner. Turning the speed up on steel
> >> Forstners,
> >> especially carbon steel, is a good way to ruin the bit.
> >>
> >> If it's cutting slowly odds are that it's dull.
> >>
> >> Also, in deep holes Forstners aren't self-clearing--you have to pull them
> >> out and clear the hole occasionally.
> >>
> >> If it's a deep hole you might want to start with a 3/4" auger or twist
> >> drill
> >> and the finish with the Forstner.
> >>
> >> > [email protected] wrote:
> >> >> In article <[email protected]>,
> >> >> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >> > have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top
> >> >> > of,
> >> >> >however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> >> >> >the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> >> >> >or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >> On lots of drill presses, the head is retained only by a set screw or
> >> >> clamp bolt or 2. If you loosen or remove it you may be able to swing
> >> >> the head around so it is not over the base. Likewise, you may be able
> >> >> to loosen the base from the column and swing it at that point also.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
> >> >>
> >> >> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
> >> >
> >
How about a simple drilling jig?
Drill a guide hole in 2 X 4 X 4 the diameter of the shaft of a spade bit
required to
drill the post hole. Put sides on the 4X4 jig to hold the jig. Place spade
bit
through the guide hole, clamp jig to 4X4, attached spade bit to hand drill
and bore away.
Jim in Bluegrass
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
> however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
>
[email protected] wrote:
> have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
> however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
Doesn't your drill press have a swivel head?
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Jim in Bluegrass wrote:
> have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
> however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
Short of digging a hole under the drill press, use a ship's auger and
the jig shown in Fred Bingham's book.
Lew
Assuming you have a bench DP...
- Clamp / screw the base to your workbench. The DP should be facing away
from you.
- Loosen the set screw(s) that hold the head on the pipe.
- Turn the head 180 degrees & tighten the screws.
- Drill your hole.
-- Mark
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
> however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
> the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
> or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
>
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
> have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
>however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
>the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
>or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
>
On lots of drill presses, the head is retained only by a set screw or
clamp bolt or 2. If you loosen or remove it you may be able to swing
the head around so it is not over the base. Likewise, you may be able
to loosen the base from the column and swing it at that point also.
--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> yup, that was it. I found that little set screw that allowed me to
> turn the head. Sorry, havent used much drill press before. But thats
> definately handy to know!
> I just wish my 1" forstner wouldn't take forever to drill! I even
> switched the rpm all the up, still seems to take a while...
> thanks for the tips!
I hope that 's a carbide Forstner. Turning the speed up on steel Forstners,
especially carbon steel, is a good way to ruin the bit.
If it's cutting slowly odds are that it's dull.
Also, in deep holes Forstners aren't self-clearing--you have to pull them
out and clear the hole occasionally.
If it's a deep hole you might want to start with a 3/4" auger or twist drill
and the finish with the Forstner.
> [email protected] wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> > have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top of,
>> >however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
>> >the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
>> >or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
>> >
>>
>> On lots of drill presses, the head is retained only by a set screw or
>> clamp bolt or 2. If you loosen or remove it you may be able to swing
>> the head around so it is not over the base. Likewise, you may be able
>> to loosen the base from the column and swing it at that point also.
>>
>>
>> --
>> No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
>>
>> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I dont think it's carbide. I think its just carbon steel. Should
> those be run slower?
> the bit was new but i probably have dulled it..?
There should be a speed chart provided with the bits. If not, here's a
conservative one that also has sharpening procedures <
http://www.wwch.org/TechData/Forstner_Bit_Speeds.jpg >. These speeds are
somewhat lower than the "standard" charts. If the one with the bits has
lower speeds they should be followed. The bits may also be marked with
maximum speeds.
If it's carbon steel then be very careful with the speed--they can be
overheated easily--if the metal has turned blue then the bit is ruined, just
like a chisel that has been ground too aggressively.
> J. Clarke wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > yup, that was it. I found that little set screw that allowed me to
>> > turn the head. Sorry, havent used much drill press before. But thats
>> > definately handy to know!
>> > I just wish my 1" forstner wouldn't take forever to drill! I even
>> > switched the rpm all the up, still seems to take a while...
>> > thanks for the tips!
>>
>> I hope that 's a carbide Forstner. Turning the speed up on steel
>> Forstners,
>> especially carbon steel, is a good way to ruin the bit.
>>
>> If it's cutting slowly odds are that it's dull.
>>
>> Also, in deep holes Forstners aren't self-clearing--you have to pull them
>> out and clear the hole occasionally.
>>
>> If it's a deep hole you might want to start with a 3/4" auger or twist
>> drill
>> and the finish with the Forstner.
>>
>> > [email protected] wrote:
>> >> In article <[email protected]>,
>> >> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >> > have a 4x4 post that i want to drill a straight hole into the top
>> >> > of,
>> >> >however the post is longer than the drill press is tall. The base of
>> >> >the drill stand is what gets in the way if I put the press on a bench
>> >> >or something. Anyone have a good work around to this?
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >> On lots of drill presses, the head is retained only by a set screw or
>> >> clamp bolt or 2. If you loosen or remove it you may be able to swing
>> >> the head around so it is not over the base. Likewise, you may be able
>> >> to loosen the base from the column and swing it at that point also.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
>> >>
>> >> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - [email protected]
>> >
>