Nah, I don't have a question on how to make one, this will be about
number 5 maybe.
While I was contemplating makng runners for it, which is always
kinda a PITA, t occurred to me to skip runners. Instead it seems that a
chunk of 2X2, or something along those lines, under the sled, on each
side of the table top, and use that in guiding the slde. I only have
the straight sides of the top, nothing jutting out.
I don't see why this wouldn't work as well as using runners in the
slots, it would be easier than aligning rrunners, and simpler all
around.
And, no, I don't see friction as being a problem, a bit of
Johnston's paste wax (or similar) will stolve that. I've not started
work on it yet - because of changed needs, am finalizing a couple of
design change - but will probably go ahead and try this. But, as I
haven't started yet, decided I'd see if I can get any viable input - I'm
not betting the ranch on that.
So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any down
side be?
JOAT
Never confuse "Oh, I can't do this!" with "Oh, I've never done this!".
- JOAT
J T wrote:
> Nah, I don't have a question on how to make one, this will be about
> number 5 maybe.
>
> While I was contemplating makng runners for it, which is always
> kinda a PITA, t occurred to me to skip runners. Instead it seems that a
> chunk of 2X2, or something along those lines, under the sled, on each
> side of the table top, and use that in guiding the slde. I only have
> the straight sides of the top, nothing jutting out.
>
> I don't see why this wouldn't work as well as using runners in the
> slots, it would be easier than aligning rrunners, and simpler all
> around.
>
> And, no, I don't see friction as being a problem, a bit of
> Johnston's paste wax (or similar) will stolve that. I've not started
> work on it yet - because of changed needs, am finalizing a couple of
> design change - but will probably go ahead and try this. But, as I
> haven't started yet, decided I'd see if I can get any viable input - I'm
> not betting the ranch on that.
>
> So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any down
> side be?
that is how I have the sled on my router table set up. it works fine
there. should work fine for you as long as the sides and blade are all
parallel.
Morris Dovey wrote:
> J T (in [email protected]) said:
>
> | And, no, I don't see friction as being a problem, a bit of
> | Johnston's paste wax (or similar) will stolve that. I've not
> | started work on it yet - because of changed needs, am finalizing a
> | couple of design change - but will probably go ahead and try this.
> | But, as I haven't started yet, decided I'd see if I can get any
> | viable input - I'm not betting the ranch on that.
> |
> | So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any
> | down side be?
>
> This is what I wanted to do before I noticed that the wings on my saw
> didn't have nice edges for the runners to bear against. You may have a
> friendlier set-up.
>
> You'll probably want to make sure that the table's side edges are
> parallel with the blade, just as you'd want the miter slots to be for
> a runner-type fence.
>
I did htat to make a sled for a router table, screwing Doug Fir 1 x 2s
onto the edges to provide a mooth straight track. It worked fine,
paste wax is a good finish and lubricant for it.
--
FF
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> that is how I have the sled on my router table set up. it works fine
> there.
router tables and drill presses do not have to be parallel to anything to
work. Tablesaws do.
Don't e-mail me about a thread, unless you know me (and those
people know who they are) - becuse it tends to irritate me. If you do,
and don't get any response from me, just consider that I'm in too mellow
a mood to reply.
Almost as important, it deprives everyone on the group of your
response - which is one of the main reasons for the newsgroup in the
first place.
JOAT
Never confuse "Oh, I can't do this!" with "Oh, I've never done this!".
- JOAT
On Sun, 4 Jun 2006 17:34:25 -0500, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Don't e-mail me about a thread, unless you know me (and those
>> people know who they are) - becuse it tends to irritate me. If you do,
>> and don't get any response from me, just consider that I'm in too mellow
>> a mood to reply.
>
>You know what irritates me? People who want to specify the form in which
>they will receive help when it is requested. I agree it's better for people
>to reply to the group so that everyone benefits, but the above makes you
>sound like a jackass.
>
>todd
>
LET THE GAMES BEGIN!!!! LMAO
skeez
Sun, Jun 4, 2006, 11:14pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (skeezics) doth
saeth
LET THE GAMES BEGIN!!!! LMAO
Eh, no prob, he's obviously new here.
Let me know when you're in the area again, and I'll show you my
"new" El Camino. Even my sons like it. Wonder if I painted it yellow
they would stop lusting after it. LOL
JOAT
Never confuse "Oh, I can't do this!" with "Oh, I've never done this!".
- JOAT
J T wrote:
> While I was contemplating makng runners for it, which is always
> kinda a PITA, t occurred to me to skip runners. Instead it seems that a
> chunk of 2X2, or something along those lines, under the sled, on each
> side of the table top, and use that in guiding the slde. I only have
> the straight sides of the top, nothing jutting out.
Should work fine as long as your sides are parallel to the slots and the
blade.
Wouldn't work for those with a side table.
Chris
On Sun, 04 Jun 2006 18:03:15 -0500, Prometheus
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 04 Jun 2006 19:39:14 GMT, "rec.woodworking w/filter"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any down
>>> side be?
>>
>>
>>JOAT,
>>
>>Your idea assumes that both sides of the tablesaw are parallel and that the
>>blade is parallel to sides. Normal alignment is to have the blade aligned
>>parallel with the miter slot and then the fence aligned to the slot.
>>
>>You may be lucky and your alignment may be parallel to one or both of the
>>sides - give it a shot.
>
>Perhaps I'm missing something here, but does it actually matter if the
>sides of the top are parallel to the blade so long as they are
>parallel to one another? As long as the sled rides smoothly, you
>could make a kerf cut before attaching the fence, and make sure the
>fence is perpendicular to that...
>
>
if they aren't parallel to the blade wood would enter the blade on a
skew would it not? under certain conditions this would be ok but not
for crosscutting. kinda like this? l / l or this l \ l. or maybe i
am missing something too. either is posible. lol
skeez
It would be easier to just use runners in the miter slots.
"Smaug Ichorfang" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I think the solution to everyone's concern would be to attach guides onto
> the sides of the top. These guides could be made parallel to the saw
blade
> (and each other) by shimming. Sled runners would track on these guides
> rather than the saw top.
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Don't e-mail me about a thread, unless you know me (and those
> people know who they are) - becuse it tends to irritate me. If you do,
> and don't get any response from me, just consider that I'm in too mellow
> a mood to reply.
You know what irritates me? People who want to specify the form in which
they will receive help when it is requested. I agree it's better for people
to reply to the group so that everyone benefits, but the above makes you
sound like a jackass.
todd
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any down
> side be?
JOAT,
Your idea assumes that both sides of the tablesaw are parallel and that the
blade is parallel to sides. Normal alignment is to have the blade aligned
parallel with the miter slot and then the fence aligned to the slot.
You may be lucky and your alignment may be parallel to one or both of the
sides - give it a shot.
Bob S.
In a word, yes. Fitting a runner is easy enough for anybody with basic
skill. The last crosscut sled I made took less than 45 minutes from raw wood
to up and running. Compare that with attaching rails to the outside edges of
the table (drill, tap, clamp, whatever), aligning them parallel to the blade
(shim, adjust, measure, ect), then building the sled and having to line it
up.
If you were going to put new wheels on your car, would you get them to fit
or install new hubs too?
"Smaug Ichorfang" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a wor, no. In order for the runner to fit the miter slots, they have
to
> be cut to a very close tolerance. Going outside the saw top, the runners
> could be made ant sixe as long as they slide properly.
>
>
J T (in [email protected]) said:
| And, no, I don't see friction as being a problem, a bit of
| Johnston's paste wax (or similar) will stolve that. I've not
| started work on it yet - because of changed needs, am finalizing a
| couple of design change - but will probably go ahead and try this.
| But, as I haven't started yet, decided I'd see if I can get any
| viable input - I'm not betting the ranch on that.
|
| So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any
| down side be?
This is what I wanted to do before I noticed that the wings on my saw
didn't have nice edges for the runners to bear against. You may have a
friendlier set-up.
You'll probably want to make sure that the table's side edges are
parallel with the blade, just as you'd want the miter slots to be for
a runner-type fence.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
Sun, Jun 4, 2006, 1:25pm (EDT-1) [email protected] (Morris=A0Dovey)
dideth mumble:
This is what I wanted to do before I noticed that the wings on my saw
didn't have nice edges for the runners to bear against. You may have a
friendlier set-up.
You'll probably want to make sure that the table's side edges are
parallel with the blade, just as you'd want the miter slots to be for a
runner-type fence.
Ah, I wondered if anyone else had thought about doing that. Yep,
the sides are smoothe enough. But, hadn't thought about being parralel.
I did just tune the saw, aligning the blade with the slots. It's more
or less only about .000000001 off, but I figured that's close enough and
didn't bother trying to get it better. I'll go back and check the
parallility of the blade with the sides. Anyway, that's nothing a bit
of sanding, or grinding, shouldn't take care of.
JOAT
Never confuse "Oh, I can't do this!" with "Oh, I've never done this!".
- JOAT
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 04 Jun 2006 19:39:14 GMT, "rec.woodworking w/filter"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>> So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any down
>>> side be?
>>
>>
>>JOAT,
>>
>>Your idea assumes that both sides of the tablesaw are parallel and that
>>the
>>blade is parallel to sides. Normal alignment is to have the blade aligned
>>parallel with the miter slot and then the fence aligned to the slot.
>>
>>You may be lucky and your alignment may be parallel to one or both of the
>>sides - give it a shot.
>
> Perhaps I'm missing something here, but does it actually matter if the
> sides of the top are parallel to the blade so long as they are
> parallel to one another? As long as the sled rides smoothly, you
> could make a kerf cut before attaching the fence, and make sure the
> fence is perpendicular to that...
To answer your question, imagine an extreme case where the edges of the top
are at a 45 degree angle to the blade. Now hook up your sled push a piece
of wood through. Not pretty. This isn't the same as having a mitre gauge
set for 45, since the mitre slot (which is the directrion of travel) is
still parallel to the blade. Any angle less than 45 degrees just produces
the same result to a lesser degree.
todd
Chris Friesen <[email protected]> wrote in news:44833012.6030503
@mail.usask.ca:
> J T wrote:
>
>> While I was contemplating makng runners for it, which is always
>> kinda a PITA, t occurred to me to skip runners. Instead it seems that a
>> chunk of 2X2, or something along those lines, under the sled, on each
>> side of the table top, and use that in guiding the slde. I only have
>> the straight sides of the top, nothing jutting out.
>
> Should work fine as long as your sides are parallel to the slots and the
> blade.
>
I think the solution to everyone's concern would be to attach guides onto
the sides of the top. These guides could be made parallel to the saw blade
(and each other) by shimming. Sled runners would track on these guides
rather than the saw top.
Tue, Jun 6, 2006, 1:11am (EDT+4) [email protected] (Smaug=A0Ichorfang) doth
claimeth:
I think the solution to everyone's concern would be to attach guides
onto the sides of the top. These guides could be made parallel to the
saw blade (and each other) by shimming. Sled runners would track on
these guides rather than the saw top.
Guides on the sides of the top? I figure it'd be easier to just
bolt a piece of pywood to the top, overlapping the sides, with the two
parallel to the blade. Then a sled with "runners" that'd fit on the
outside edges of the plywood rather than the table top.
However, you "could" bolt a strip of plywood on each side of the
blade, NOT overlapping the top. As long as they wsere cut square, be
very easy to make them parallel to the blade that way, even if the blade
is way off alignment with the miter slots. But, as only the outside
edges would need to be aligned with the blade, wouldn't even have to be
cut square, as long as one edge on each as straight. I'll have to think
on this one a bit, seems to have some interesting possibilities.
JOAT
Never confuse "Oh, I can't do this!" with "Oh, I've never done this!".
- JOAT
In a wor, no. In order for the runner to fit the miter slots, they have to
be cut to a very close tolerance. Going outside the saw top, the runners
could be made ant sixe as long as they slide properly.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> It would be easier to just use runners in the miter slots.
>
> "Smaug Ichorfang" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I think the solution to everyone's concern would be to attach guides
>> onto the sides of the top. These guides could be made parallel to
>> the saw
> blade
>> (and each other) by shimming. Sled runners would track on these
>> guides rather than the saw top.
>
>
>
Tue, Jun 6, 2006, 4:23am (EDT+4) [email protected] (Smaug=A0Ichorfang) doth
claieth:
In a wor, no. In order for the runner to fit the miter slots, they have
to be cut to a very close tolerance. <snip>
Nah. They only need to have the inside edges straight. Mine were
that way, and the outside edges didn't even marry up with the outside
edges of the miter slots. Both straight edges ran right along the
inside edges of the miter slots, worked fine.
JOAT
Never confuse "Oh, I can't do this!" with "Oh, I've never done this!".
- JOAT
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> In a word, yes. Fitting a runner is easy enough for anybody with basic
> skill.
Fine. You win. Send the original poster a dozen.
>
Tue, Jun 6, 2006, 9:22am (EDT+4) [email protected] (Smaug=A0Ichorfang) doth
stateth:
Fine. You win. Send the original poster a dozen.
Hey, he was replying to you, not me. I don't have problems making
sled runners, or saw sleds. This one will be maybe number 4, 5, or 6,
for me. I just decided to try something a bit different this time.
After all, saw sleds ain't exactly rocket science.
JOAT
Never confuse "Oh, I can't do this!" with "Oh, I've never done this!".
- JOAT
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Nah, I don't have a question on how to make one, this will be about
> number 5 maybe.
>
> While I was contemplating makng runners for it, which is always
> kinda a PITA, t occurred to me to skip runners. Instead it seems that a
> chunk of 2X2, or something along those lines, under the sled, on each
> side of the table top, and use that in guiding the slde. I only have
> the straight sides of the top, nothing jutting out.
>
> I don't see why this wouldn't work as well as using runners in the
> slots, it would be easier than aligning rrunners, and simpler all
> around.
>
> And, no, I don't see friction as being a problem, a bit of
> Johnston's paste wax (or similar) will stolve that. I've not started
> work on it yet - because of changed needs, am finalizing a couple of
> design change - but will probably go ahead and try this. But, as I
> haven't started yet, decided I'd see if I can get any viable input - I'm
> not betting the ranch on that.
>
> So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any down
> side be?
Years ago when I has a smaller saw and wanted to cross cut large panels I
clamped a straight edge on the left bottom side of the panel and used the
left table edge as a guide. It worked OK.
Like Morris indicated, the table sides may not be parallel to the blade and
equally as bad they may not be parallel to each other. The fit would become
tighter or looser if the later was the case.
Put the runner on and don't worry with it being perfectly perpendicular to
the front or back of the sled. On top of the sled attach the fence with
screws and let the fence pivot on one screw until you have it tuned in
square.
Sun, Jun 4, 2006, 7:04pm (EDT+4) [email protected] (Leon)now
mumbleth:
Years ago when I has a smaller saw and wanted to cross cut large panels
I clamped a straight edge on the left bottom side of the panel and used
the left table edge as a guide. It worked OK.
Like Morris indicated, the table sides may not be parallel to the blade
and equally as bad they may not be parallel to each other. The fit would
become tighter or looser if the later was the case.
Put the runner on and don't worry with it being perfectly perpendicular
to the front or back of the sled. On top of the sled attach the fence
with screws and let the fence pivot on one screw until you have it tuned
in square.
Hadn't thought about claming a straightedge on. Can't use the idea
in this application, but gives me an idea for another later on.
Hadn't thought about both sides maybe not being parallel. I'll
check both now. If they're off, but not too far, a bt of sanding, or
grinding, should solve that.
Actually, I've had good luck positioning a piece to line my back
fence up with the blae, then psitioning the actual fence against it, and
gluing the fence into place. Might b an extra step, but I prefer
keeping ANY metal out of my sleds and jigs.
And I don't care what the rest of the people here seay about you
and Morris, I think you're both OK. LMAO
JOAT
Never confuse "Oh, I can't do this!" with "Oh, I've never done this!".
- JOAT
Yes, it matters a lot, Think about it.
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Perhaps I'm missing something here, but does it actually matter if the
> sides of the top are parallel to the blade so long as they are
> parallel to one another? As long as the sled rides smoothly, you
> could make a kerf cut before attaching the fence, and make sure the
> fence is perpendicular to that...
>
>
>
On Sun, 04 Jun 2006 19:39:14 GMT, "rec.woodworking w/filter"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> So, has anyone tried this before? And, if so, what would any down
>> side be?
>
>
>JOAT,
>
>Your idea assumes that both sides of the tablesaw are parallel and that the
>blade is parallel to sides. Normal alignment is to have the blade aligned
>parallel with the miter slot and then the fence aligned to the slot.
>
>You may be lucky and your alignment may be parallel to one or both of the
>sides - give it a shot.
Perhaps I'm missing something here, but does it actually matter if the
sides of the top are parallel to the blade so long as they are
parallel to one another? As long as the sled rides smoothly, you
could make a kerf cut before attaching the fence, and make sure the
fence is perpendicular to that...
On Sun, 4 Jun 2006 18:12:55 -0500, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Perhaps I'm missing something here, but does it actually matter if the
>> sides of the top are parallel to the blade so long as they are
>> parallel to one another? As long as the sled rides smoothly, you
>> could make a kerf cut before attaching the fence, and make sure the
>> fence is perpendicular to that...
>
>To answer your question, imagine an extreme case where the edges of the top
>are at a 45 degree angle to the blade. Now hook up your sled push a piece
>of wood through. Not pretty. This isn't the same as having a mitre gauge
>set for 45, since the mitre slot (which is the directrion of travel) is
>still parallel to the blade. Any angle less than 45 degrees just produces
>the same result to a lesser degree.
I got ya, the kerf will be wider, kind of like a minimal crown-molding
cove technique. I hadn't thought of that one.
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Don't e-mail me about a thread, unless you know me (and those
> > people know who they are) - becuse it tends to irritate me. If you do,
> > and don't get any response from me, just consider that I'm in too mellow
> > a mood to reply.
>
> You know what irritates me? People who want to specify the form in which
> they will receive help when it is requested. I agree it's better for
people
> to reply to the group so that everyone benefits, but the above makes you
> sound like a jackass.
>
> todd
>
>
What did you expect? This is JOAT you're talking (typing) to.
In a wor, no. The runners can be slightly undersize of the slots. You just
have to make sure that when you attach them to sled that each runner is
forced toward the inside edge of the slot. Not that cutting the runners to
the required tolerance is that hard to begin with...just takes some trial
and error to dial in the right size.
todd
"Smaug Ichorfang" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In a wor, no. In order for the runner to fit the miter slots, they have
> to
> be cut to a very close tolerance. Going outside the saw top, the runners
> could be made ant sixe as long as they slide properly.
>
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> It would be easier to just use runners in the miter slots.
>>
>> "Smaug Ichorfang" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I think the solution to everyone's concern would be to attach guides
>>> onto the sides of the top. These guides could be made parallel to
>>> the saw
>> blade
>>> (and each other) by shimming. Sled runners would track on these
>>> guides rather than the saw top.
>>
>>
>>
>