Advice on 3 HP router

On Mar 21, 4:29=A0pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 21, 4:23=A0pm, Sasha <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
> > the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model.
>
> Hitachi MV 12

I checked there is M12V for around $280 and M12V2 for $180. What's the
difference between them as the later is $100 cheaper.

On Mar 23, 1:03=A0pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:

> "Why do you have so many?" someone might say. =A0<G>
> Well, we have a GMC 2500HD, an S-10 Blazer, a Lincoln MKZ, a Hyundai Accen=
t,
> a Holiday Rambler TT, a 2 ton capacity utility trailer, =A02 wheel barrows=
, a
> hand truck and 2 bicycles.

How DO you ever find time to do any work? LOL

On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 16:27:29 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>
>BTW, did you read this:
>
>http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/03/21/MNU3VOB22.DTL&tsp=1
>

I agree. I teach cycling classes! Too many cyclists don't respect
traffic signals or signs. It's one thing to stop at a red light, look
both ways, then go (treating the light as a stop sign), compared to
ripping through a downhill red light @ 30+ MPH!

Racers are the WORST! Don't want the heart rate to drop!

A messenger was recently killed in an Alleycat race in Chicago,
because he ran a red light and got broadsided by a Tahoe, early on a
Sunday morning. As a cyclist, I feel for the rider, but I feel worse
for the poor person who had to hit him. I put her in the same boat as
locomotive engineers who hit people walking on railroad tracks. An
innocent person with a body flying over the windshield.

During my classes, I point out that every time <you> do something
stupid in traffic on a bike, you get a bottle or ashtray thrown at
responsible cyclists by mulletheads. The same goes for mountain
bikers who scare hikers and folks on horseback by silently ripping by
from behind.

>and here's the diatribe from my good friends:
>
>http://forums.fark.com/cgi/fark/comments.pl?IDLink=3485144

Some of those folks actually have it right.

With rights come responsibilities. A thought lost on many Americans.

On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:15:32 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:


>
>I have both as well as a few MV12's. The OP mentioned budget, and at
>least here, the MV12 is a lot cheaper than the Milwaukeee, which >is<
>a superior router to the Hitachi.

The MV12 is a great deal. I should have underscored the 3HP router in
_handheld_ use part. I missed the OP's "budget" request.

I'm not so sure I'd want to hold on to an MV12 (or the Milwaukee) in
full grab on a big bit! <G>

Given a tight budget (or ONE router to do all), I think I'd go for the
1617EVS, PC 690, or DeWalt multi-based kits, and take an extra pass
when it's in the table.

"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:a269a444-fd56-4681-beba-0264ff7ad7fc@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>>I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
>> the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model
>
>
> Triton


I've a triton too & like it a lot, every now & then Woodcraft offer it at a
great price.

On Mar 21, 5:50 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Triton

Do you like the way that feels in your hands? I know this is just a
matter of preference, but those little round knobs for handles aren't
comfortable to me. Granted, I haven't used the 3hp model, but they
look the same as the 2 1/2 hp model.

Robert

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 13:23:13 -0700 (PDT), Sasha <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
>the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model.

The Hitachi M12V sounds like what you're looking for and in terms of
bang for the buck, it's probably one of the best bargains in power
tools.

Reply-to address is real
John

On Mar 21, 3:23=A0pm, Sasha <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
> the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model.

I have the Porter Cable 7539 plunge router. Doesn't meet your budget
criteria. But it is comfortable to use and the controls are logical.
I've played around with the Hitachi and some of the other cheap
routers mentioned such as the Freud and always thought these cheap
routers were just that. Cheap and uncomfortable. Not something I
would like using. Waste of money buying a product that you hate using
and are immediately looking for a replacement.

On Mar 21, 4:23=A0pm, Sasha <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
> the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model.

Hitachi MV 12

On Mar 22, 4:40 pm, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"

> Given a tight budget (or ONE router to do all), I think I'd go for the
> 1617EVS, PC 690, or DeWalt multi-based kits, and take an extra pass
> when it's in the table.

The above table use would be the reason for my pick of the DW 625. It
isn't too big and bulky, and even at 3hp it isn't any bigger or
heavier than my PC 7529, which is only 2 1/4(?) or so hp.

The 625 has a low center of gravity making it easy to use out of the
table.

But I agree with your other router pic. I have a Bosch 1618EVS (the D
handle brother to the 1617 series) and it is by far and away my
favorite router for a single pick.

Robert

On Mar 23, 11:10=A0am, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)" =A0wrote
>
>
>
> > Comfort bikes were conceived for rolling around the neighborhood and
> > general getting exercise and fresh air, so I think you'd do fine.
> > Comfort bikes, based on a mountain bike, offer a low center of
> > gravity, enough tire air volume to handle sidewalk transitions, poor
> > or loose surface roads, and an upright riding position for good
> > visibility and less stress on the wrists and neck.
>
> > Take the time to test ride to get the proper size. =A0Wear comfortable
> > clothing and suitable shoes while shopping. =A0Most have adjustable
> > stems, etc... =A0for fine tuning the fit, but you need the right size
> > frame to start. =A0Comfort bike frame sizes are often expressed as
> > S-M-L-XL or 15-17-19-22 inches. =A0If the rider is near the edge of two
> > sizes, be sure to test ride before buying a different brand, as there
> > may be minor size differences from brand to brand, even though both
> > may be a "17".
>
> > If you pick a price point, say $350, the bikes themselves won't differ
> > all that much between brands. =A0Quality and components will be
> > comparable. =A0One important difference can be the shifters, some bikes
> > have "Rapidfire-style" (thumb and forefinger) shifters, others use
> > rotary "Grip" (like a motorcycle throttle) shifts. =A0Either will work
> > well, but some folks develop a preference after trying both types.
>
> > Buy from a shop that treats you well and makes you comfortable, offers
> > free adjustments, etc... vs. sticking to one particular brand. =A0 There=

> > isn't a huge profit on these bikes, so expect shops to compete via a
> > higher service level vs. price markdowns. =A0 In the comfort bike realm,=

> > (in no particular order) Trek, Raleigh, Giant, and Schwinn, all make
> > excellent bikes.
>
> > Once you get her one, the best thing you can do to keep it riding well
> > is proper tire inflation. =A0Bicycle tires can lose air surprisingly
> > quickly, but still look inflated. =A0On a comfort bike, a tire with 65
> > psi will ride much differently (better!) than 45 psi, while looking
> > similar to the eye.
>
> Thank you sir!! =A0Glad you mentioned the shifter. =A0Mama doesn't like th=
e
> rotary grip and we'll be asking for a "thumb shifter". (she has arthritis
> and finds the twist shifter difficult).
> Inflation should not present a problem. =A0I have 3 compressors, 60 gallon=
, 3
> gallon and a 1 gallon Senco. =A0<G>
>
> Many thanks once again.
>

Get a quality pressure gauge. Most important. I haven't had any luck
with the two digitals I bought, but I really like the dial ones.

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)" wrote

> Comfort bikes were conceived for rolling around the neighborhood and
> general getting exercise and fresh air, so I think you'd do fine.
> Comfort bikes, based on a mountain bike, offer a low center of
> gravity, enough tire air volume to handle sidewalk transitions, poor
> or loose surface roads, and an upright riding position for good
> visibility and less stress on the wrists and neck.
>
> Take the time to test ride to get the proper size. Wear comfortable
> clothing and suitable shoes while shopping. Most have adjustable
> stems, etc... for fine tuning the fit, but you need the right size
> frame to start. Comfort bike frame sizes are often expressed as
> S-M-L-XL or 15-17-19-22 inches. If the rider is near the edge of two
> sizes, be sure to test ride before buying a different brand, as there
> may be minor size differences from brand to brand, even though both
> may be a "17".
>
> If you pick a price point, say $350, the bikes themselves won't differ
> all that much between brands. Quality and components will be
> comparable. One important difference can be the shifters, some bikes
> have "Rapidfire-style" (thumb and forefinger) shifters, others use
> rotary "Grip" (like a motorcycle throttle) shifts. Either will work
> well, but some folks develop a preference after trying both types.
>
> Buy from a shop that treats you well and makes you comfortable, offers
> free adjustments, etc... vs. sticking to one particular brand. There
> isn't a huge profit on these bikes, so expect shops to compete via a
> higher service level vs. price markdowns. In the comfort bike realm,
> (in no particular order) Trek, Raleigh, Giant, and Schwinn, all make
> excellent bikes.
>
> Once you get her one, the best thing you can do to keep it riding well
> is proper tire inflation. Bicycle tires can lose air surprisingly
> quickly, but still look inflated. On a comfort bike, a tire with 65
> psi will ride much differently (better!) than 45 psi, while looking
> similar to the eye.

Thank you sir!! Glad you mentioned the shifter. Mama doesn't like the
rotary grip and we'll be asking for a "thumb shifter". (she has arthritis
and finds the twist shifter difficult).
Inflation should not present a problem. I have 3 compressors, 60 gallon, 3
gallon and a 1 gallon Senco. <G>

Many thanks once again.

Max

"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote



Get a quality pressure gauge. Most important. I haven't had any luck
with the two digitals I bought, but I really like the dial ones.

I would be ashamed to let someone look in the drawer where I keep air
fittings, tire valves, and gauges.
"Why do you have so many?" someone might say. <G>
Well, we have a GMC 2500HD, an S-10 Blazer, a Lincoln MKZ, a Hyundai Accent,
a Holiday Rambler TT, a 2 ton capacity utility trailer, 2 wheel barrows, a
hand truck and 2 bicycles.
And you're right; the dial gauges are the best. I have 2 from Accu-gauge.
The rest are only good for "approximate". <G>

Max (aired-up)

"Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a269a444-fd56-4681-beba-0264ff7ad7fc@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
> the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model


Triton

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)" wrote

> Sasha wrote:
>
>>I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
>>the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model.
>
> Just to toss a wrench in the works, an opinion in a slightly different
> direction...
>
> I don't care what a "big" router feels like in my hands, because I
> don't like "big" routers out of the table. My choice of a big router
> is 100% based on table-friendly features, with little thought to
> handheld use. That said, I like the Milwaukee 5625.
>
> I find any of the 2 or 2 1/4 HP multi-base models (Bosch, PC,
> DeWalt...) to be plenty powerful for anything done as a handheld
> operation. The low center of gravity and low mounted handles of a
> fixed base are my preference whenever I don't need to plunge.
>
> Others might have specific operations they like to do out of the table
> where they need a bigger router than 2 1/4 HP, but I haven't seen it
> so far. I've mortised, squared table tops, and cut centers out of
> 1-1/2" material.

1st choice for a table: Milwaukee 5625-20.
If my budget wouldn't allow it, I would pick the Milwaukee 5616-20. Just
take smaller "bites" when using the larger bits.
I have both routers and they're winners.

Max

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:15:32 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>I have both as well as a few MV12's. The OP mentioned budget, and at
>>least here, the MV12 is a lot cheaper than the Milwaukeee, which >is<
>>a superior router to the Hitachi.
>
> The MV12 is a great deal. I should have underscored the 3HP router in
> _handheld_ use part. I missed the OP's "budget" request.
>
> I'm not so sure I'd want to hold on to an MV12 (or the Milwaukee) in
> full grab on a big bit! <G>
>
> Given a tight budget (or ONE router to do all), I think I'd go for the
> 1617EVS, PC 690, or DeWalt multi-based kits, and take an extra pass
> when it's in the table.
>

Given a tight budget I think I would go for the Milwaukee 5616 . <G>
It's almost as strong as some of the "lesser" 3 HP routers.

Max

On Mar 21, 5:06 pm, Sasha <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 21, 4:29 pm, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > On Mar 21, 4:23 pm, Sasha <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
> > > the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model.
>
> > Hitachi MV 12
>
> I checked there is M12V for around $280 and M12V2 for $180. What's the
> difference between them as the later is $100 cheaper.

Many, many years ago, for the most part Hitachi tools were made in
Japan. They were precisely machined, well engineered, and the fit and
finish was great. I have a couple of old Hitachi tools that are on
20+ years of active duty. They were the only tools could find 20
years ago that were as well made as Milwaukee and sold at the same
price. The only German made tools around here were Bosch.

I don't think any of the tools Hitachi sells are made in Japan. I
believe everything they make is now from China. And while the new
M12V resembles its older brother, I really doubt it will last as long.

Personally, I have a DeWalt 625 and have used it for several years. I
love it. I is quieter than most routers, has a lot of power, great
variable speed control and works well under a table. Like most
routers, you can't have everything. It will only swing a 2 1/2" width
bit within the base which may not work for you if you are making doors
with certain router bit sets. If you get a bit extender, this isn't a
problem. Adjustment is easy, and the router stays where I set it.

At about $250 or so, you can still have some scratch left over to buy
a spiffy router base to go with it that will give you more flexibility
with the use of different PC style inserts, and enable the use of
larger bits.

This router handles really well and to me feels really good in my
hands. To me it feels better than its 3 - 3 1/2 hp cousins from PC or
Milwaukee. To be fair, both of them have similar shortcomings in the
depth of cut as well as in baseplate problems. I really liked some
of the features on the Milwaukee, but I didn't like those weird
feeling hard plastic handles on the sides of the machine as it never
felt right in my hands.

Robert

"Bonehenge (B A R R Y)" wrote

> I teach cycling classes! Too many cyclists don't respect
> traffic signals or signs. It's one thing to stop at a red light, look
> both ways, then go (treating the light as a stop sign), compared to
> ripping through a downhill red light @ 30+ MPH!
>
> Racers are the WORST! Don't want the heart rate to drop!
>
> A messenger was recently killed in an Alleycat race in Chicago,
> because he ran a red light and got broadsided by a Tahoe, early on a
> Sunday morning. As a cyclist, I feel for the rider, but I feel worse
> for the poor person who had to hit him. I put her in the same boat as
> locomotive engineers who hit people walking on railroad tracks. An
> innocent person with a body flying over the windshield.
>
> During my classes, I point out that every time <you> do something
> stupid in traffic on a bike, you get a bottle or ashtray thrown at
> responsible cyclists by mulletheads. The same goes for mountain
> bikers who scare hikers and folks on horseback by silently ripping by
> from behind.
>
>>and here's the diatribe from my good friends:
>>
>>http://forums.fark.com/cgi/fark/comments.pl?IDLink=3485144
>
> Some of those folks actually have it right.
>
> With rights come responsibilities. A thought lost on many Americans.

Hey, "Teach", I'm glad you came along just now.
I'm looking for a bicycle for my wife. She wants a "comfort" bike;
something just for exercise. We looked at this one, a Schwinn Sierra Seven:
http://www.schwinnbike.com/products/bikes_detail.php?id=754

Something along that order. What would be your verdict? Recommendation?

Max

On Mar 22, 6:40=A0pm, "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
> I'm not so sure I'd want to hold on to an MV12 =A0(or the Milwaukee) in
> full grab on a big bit! =A0<G>
>
You'd want your feet firmly planted on a non-slip floor if you're
going to mess with the Milwaukee.
That bad boy feels a lot stronger than the MV 12 even though the
ratings are roughly the same. I can't imagine what you'd have to do to
stall the 5625. (Hand-held that is)

BTW, did you read this:

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=3D/c/a/2008/03/21/MNU3VOB22.DTL&=
tsp=3D1

and here's the diatribe from my good friends:

http://forums.fark.com/cgi/fark/comments.pl?IDLink=3D3485144

"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Sasha" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:a269a444-fd56-4681-beba-0264ff7ad7fc@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>>>I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
>>> the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model
>>
>>
>> Triton
>
>
> I've a triton too & like it a lot, every now & then Woodcraft offer it at
> a great price.
>

Seems like their every day price is a great price. I bought mine about 3-4
years ago and paid over $300.
The regular price has been cut over $100.

On Mar 22, 11:58=A0am, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Bonehenge (B A R R Y)" =A0wrote
>
>
>
> > =A0Sasha wrote:
>
> >>I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
> >>the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model.
>
> > Just to toss a wrench in the works, an opinion in a slightly different
> > direction...
>
> > I don't care what a "big" router feels like in my hands, because I
> > don't like "big" routers out of the table. =A0My choice of a big router
> > is 100% based on table-friendly features, with little thought to
> > handheld use. =A0That said, I like the Milwaukee 5625.
>
> > I find any of the 2 or 2 1/4 HP multi-base models (Bosch, PC,
> > DeWalt...) to be plenty powerful for anything done as a handheld
> > operation. =A0The low center of gravity and low mounted handles of a
> > fixed base are my preference whenever I don't need to plunge.
>
> > Others might have specific operations they like to do out of the table
> > where they need a bigger router than 2 1/4 HP, but I haven't seen it
> > so far. =A0I've mortised, squared table tops, and cut centers out of
> > 1-1/2" material.
>
> 1st choice for a table: =A0Milwaukee 5625-20.
> If my budget wouldn't allow it, I would pick the Milwaukee 5616-20. =A0Jus=
t
> take smaller "bites" when using the larger bits.
> I have both routers and they're winners.
>
> Max

I have both as well as a few MV12's. The OP mentioned budget, and at
least here, the MV12 is a lot cheaper than the Milwaukeee, which >is<
a superior router to the Hitachi.

r

and for handheld everyday use, the Milwaukee 5616..."from these cold
dead hands..etc..etc"

Of course, none of those compare to a liquid cooled Elte spindle..but
that's a whole different story...

On Sun, 23 Mar 2008 01:00:55 GMT, "Max" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>Hey, "Teach", I'm glad you came along just now.
>I'm looking for a bicycle for my wife. She wants a "comfort" bike;
>something just for exercise. We looked at this one, a Schwinn Sierra Seven:
>http://www.schwinnbike.com/products/bikes_detail.php?id=754
>
>Something along that order. What would be your verdict? Recommendation?
>
>Max
>


Comfort bikes were conceived for rolling around the neighborhood and
general getting exercise and fresh air, so I think you'd do fine.
Comfort bikes, based on a mountain bike, offer a low center of
gravity, enough tire air volume to handle sidewalk transitions, poor
or loose surface roads, and an upright riding position for good
visibility and less stress on the wrists and neck.

Take the time to test ride to get the proper size. Wear comfortable
clothing and suitable shoes while shopping. Most have adjustable
stems, etc... for fine tuning the fit, but you need the right size
frame to start. Comfort bike frame sizes are often expressed as
S-M-L-XL or 15-17-19-22 inches. If the rider is near the edge of two
sizes, be sure to test ride before buying a different brand, as there
may be minor size differences from brand to brand, even though both
may be a "17".

If you pick a price point, say $350, the bikes themselves won't differ
all that much between brands. Quality and components will be
comparable. One important difference can be the shifters, some bikes
have "Rapidfire-style" (thumb and forefinger) shifters, others use
rotary "Grip" (like a motorcycle throttle) shifts. Either will work
well, but some folks develop a preference after trying both types.

Buy from a shop that treats you well and makes you comfortable, offers
free adjustments, etc... vs. sticking to one particular brand. There
isn't a huge profit on these bikes, so expect shops to compete via a
higher service level vs. price markdowns. In the comfort bike realm,
(in no particular order) Trek, Raleigh, Giant, and Schwinn, all make
excellent bikes.

Once you get her one, the best thing you can do to keep it riding well
is proper tire inflation. Bicycle tires can lose air surprisingly
quickly, but still look inflated. On a comfort bike, a tire with 65
psi will ride much differently (better!) than 45 psi, while looking
similar to the eye.

"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:1577e564-ac8b-4a10-a5bc-8a28f2c3c466@p73g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 23, 1:03 pm, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:

> "Why do you have so many?" someone might say. <G>
> Well, we have a GMC 2500HD, an S-10 Blazer, a Lincoln MKZ, a Hyundai
> Accent,
> a Holiday Rambler TT, a 2 ton capacity utility trailer, 2 wheel barrows, a
> hand truck and 2 bicycles.

How DO you ever find time to do any work? LOL

It ain't easy. <BG>

Max

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 13:23:13 -0700 (PDT), Sasha <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I am looking for a 3 HP plunge router that I can use under and above
>the table. I am on a budget but want to buy a good solid model.

Just to toss a wrench in the works, an opinion in a slightly different
direction...

I don't care what a "big" router feels like in my hands, because I
don't like "big" routers out of the table. My choice of a big router
is 100% based on table-friendly features, with little thought to
handheld use. That said, I like the Milwaukee 5625.

I find any of the 2 or 2 1/4 HP multi-base models (Bosch, PC,
DeWalt...) to be plenty powerful for anything done as a handheld
operation. The low center of gravity and low mounted handles of a
fixed base are my preference whenever I don't need to plunge.

Others might have specific operations they like to do out of the table
where they need a bigger router than 2 1/4 HP, but I haven't seen it
so far. I've mortised, squared table tops, and cut centers out of
1-1/2" material.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:4b9b4663-a0be-459c-acbb-895a05e0feb6@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 21, 5:50 pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Triton
>
> Do you like the way that feels in your hands? I know this is just a
> matter of preference, but those little round knobs for handles aren't
> comfortable to me. Granted, I haven't used the 3hp model, but they
> look the same as the 2 1/2 hp model.
>
> Robert
>


Actually mine hangs like a bat, all the time. Personally, I prefer a
smaller router for hand held use. I am coming from the angle that a router
that big would be mounted in a table most of the time.