I have a really crappy table saw. It takes 5 minutes to adjust the fence
and then it is adequate for ripping; but it is completely worthless for
crosscutting. I need something better than I have, and am willing to invest
$500. (yes, I can hear you all laughing about buying something good for
$500, but that's my budget)
If I didn't have any table saw, it would be an easy choice, but since I
do... What do you recommend, and why?
I just finished a bookcase to hold an antique clock in our entryway. My
next projects are a towel cabinet and an over the toilet cabinet for the
bathroom. Thanks.
Jim,
Thanks for your comments and thoughts about ripping. I'm one of those 40
veterans using the RAS professionally. We rip on it all the time. I might
suggest for those not familiar with the RAS and wish to learn how to safely
use it and enjoy it's benefits, read the following book:
"How To Master The Radial Saw" By Wally Kunkel
http://mrsawdust.com/
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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"Morgans" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > > The RAS has more of a tendency to Kickback when ripping then the
> > TS, this can be avoided by proper adjustment of the sawhead, (I have
used
> > this tendency to clear the table when making large numbers of narrow
rips,
> > scares the bejabbers out of passersby).
> >
> > Use of a push board eliminates any sort of kick back when ripping narrow
> > pieces. It's easy to make, safe to use and does the job.
> >
> > > The RAS has more of a tendency to climb the
> > > blade over the stock being cut and come after the cutter then the TS
> does,
> > > this is scary to most people, but with proper handling can be avoided.
> >
> > Use of a proper blade in diameter and profile virtually eliminates any
> sort
> > of climb, i.e. the Forrest WW1 blade with triple chip profile with
> diameter
> > matched to the amp rating of the saw.
> >
> > A quality RAS (DeWalt) is pleasure to use.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Rumpty
> >
> > Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
>
> I pray you never get hurt ripping on the RAS. A board with some wild
grain
> and internal stresses can cause some big problems.
>
> I teach my students to pick up a skill saw and rip something before they
rip
> with a RAS, and I tell them why.
>
> Flame away if you wish, but IMHO, ripping with a RAS should be avoided,
and
> then avoided some more.
> --
> Jim in NC
>
>
$500 bucks will buy you a great "used" DeWalt RAS that will perform all of
your home building needs.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a really crappy table saw. It takes 5 minutes to adjust the fence
> and then it is adequate for ripping; but it is completely worthless for
> crosscutting. I need something better than I have, and am willing to
invest
> $500. (yes, I can hear you all laughing about buying something good for
> $500, but that's my budget)
>
> If I didn't have any table saw, it would be an easy choice, but since I
> do... What do you recommend, and why?
>
> I just finished a bookcase to hold an antique clock in our entryway. My
> next projects are a towel cabinet and an over the toilet cabinet for the
> bathroom. Thanks.
>
>
> The RAS has more of a tendency to Kickback when ripping then the
TS, this can be avoided by proper adjustment of the sawhead, (I have used
this tendency to clear the table when making large numbers of narrow rips,
scares the bejabbers out of passersby).
Use of a push board eliminates any sort of kick back when ripping narrow
pieces. It's easy to make, safe to use and does the job.
> The RAS has more of a tendency to climb the
> blade over the stock being cut and come after the cutter then the TS does,
> this is scary to most people, but with proper handling can be avoided.
Use of a proper blade in diameter and profile virtually eliminates any sort
of climb, i.e. the Forrest WW1 blade with triple chip profile with diameter
matched to the amp rating of the saw.
A quality RAS (DeWalt) is pleasure to use.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Sweet Sawdust" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The RAS will do everything the average woodworker needs a TS or RAS to do,
> the TS will do everything the average woodworker needs a RAS or TS to do.
> They are different but each will do 95% of what the other one will do.
What
> you have to decide is what disadvantages and advantages they have that are
> important to you. The RAS has a smaller footprint in the shop, for 8'
> lumber you need a space 16' x 8' for the RAS as opposed to 16' x16' for
the
> TS. Few of us have the space needed for either one and must overlap space.
> The RAS is much easier to use for cross cuts and miter cuts while the TS
is
> by far the best for ripcuts, and sheet goods. The TS is easier to adjust
> (even with a loggy fence) then the RAS and the TS tends to stay in
> adjustment better then the RAS. The RAS has more of a tendency to climb
the
> blade over the stock being cut and come after the cutter then the TS does,
> this is scary to most people, but with proper handling can be avoided.
Most
> RAS units are underpowered and will jam and lock if not used properly,
this
> is also scary to most wood workers, but can be avoided if the saw is use
> properly. The RAS has more of a tendency to Kickback when ripping then
the
> TS, this can be avoided by proper adjustment of the sawhead, (I have used
> this tendency to clear the table when making large numbers of narrow rips,
> scares the bejabbers out of passersby). The RAS is a little harder to use
> for the average weekend woodworker, because it takes more skill to learn
to
> use and keep in good adjustment then the TS. Both are good tools and can
> slice wood up real well. What are you doing and which will do you the
better
> job is the question. I like the RAS better then the TS but find the TS
to
> be used far more then the RAS in my shop. Just my opinion.
> "Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I have a really crappy table saw. It takes 5 minutes to adjust the
fence
> > and then it is adequate for ripping; but it is completely worthless for
> > crosscutting. I need something better than I have, and am willing to
> invest
> > $500. (yes, I can hear you all laughing about buying something good for
> > $500, but that's my budget)
> >
> > If I didn't have any table saw, it would be an easy choice, but since I
> > do... What do you recommend, and why?
> >
> > I just finished a bookcase to hold an antique clock in our entryway. My
> > next projects are a towel cabinet and an over the toilet cabinet for the
> > bathroom. Thanks.
> >
> >
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Wade Lippman <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a really crappy table saw. It takes 5 minutes to adjust the fence
>and then it is adequate for ripping; but it is completely worthless for
>crosscutting. I need something better than I have, and am willing to invest
>$500. (yes, I can hear you all laughing about buying something good for
>$500, but that's my budget)
$500 is a not un-reasonable budget. That's the ball-park for a good used
contractor table saw. $550-600, will definitely cover a good quality
used saw, with a good fence and blade. You could _probably_ sell your
current saw for at least the 'over budget' amount.
I'd also look at a Ryobi BT3100, and a good blade -- that'd be in the $400,
maybe $450, range.
Another possibility is 'upgrading' your existing saw. depending on -what-
it is, and how (and in what ways) it's crappy. If the basic mechanism
(the blade support and table) is sound -- a good fence, and a good blade,
can make an *incredible* difference. WAGuesstimate, this'd be in the $300-400
range.
>If I didn't have any table saw, it would be an easy choice, but since I
>do... What do you recommend, and why?
A 'bad' table-saw is, in many ways, worse than _no_ table saw.
I'd recommend a reasonable quality table-saw.
There _are_ a few things you can do "quicker, easier, simpler" with a RAS,
with equivalent precision to a table saw -- but not a lot.
A Table-saw is generally more advantageous for the typical "cabinet-maker"
activities.
Get the RAS. I have a table saw and it's a pain cutting straight even with
guides and stuff. I mean with a RAS you plop the wood down and ZIP and
you're done - perfect cut every time. If you are gonna cut long miters
you'll need a table saw. For instance I had to rip a 72" miter cut which a
RAS wouldnt do.
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a really crappy table saw. It takes 5 minutes to adjust the fence
> and then it is adequate for ripping; but it is completely worthless for
> crosscutting. I need something better than I have, and am willing to
invest
> $500. (yes, I can hear you all laughing about buying something good for
> $500, but that's my budget)
>
> If I didn't have any table saw, it would be an easy choice, but since I
> do... What do you recommend, and why?
>
> I just finished a bookcase to hold an antique clock in our entryway. My
> next projects are a towel cabinet and an over the toilet cabinet for the
> bathroom. Thanks.
>
>
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a really crappy table saw. It takes 5 minutes to adjust the fence
> and then it is adequate for ripping; but it is completely worthless for
> crosscutting. I need something better than I have, and am willing to
invest
> $500. (yes, I can hear you all laughing about buying something good for
> $500, but that's my budget)
>
> If I didn't have any table saw, it would be an easy choice, but since I
> do... What do you recommend, and why?
>
> I just finished a bookcase to hold an antique clock in our entryway. My
> next projects are a towel cabinet and an over the toilet cabinet for the
> bathroom. Thanks.
>
I would definately get a tablesaw. I bought the Rigid TS2424 at home depot
(about that price range) and have been happy with it, as have many others.
I think that the TS2424 has been replaced by the TS3612 or something like
that but it is the same saw.
Frank
The RAS will do everything the average woodworker needs a TS or RAS to do,
the TS will do everything the average woodworker needs a RAS or TS to do.
They are different but each will do 95% of what the other one will do. What
you have to decide is what disadvantages and advantages they have that are
important to you. The RAS has a smaller footprint in the shop, for 8'
lumber you need a space 16' x 8' for the RAS as opposed to 16' x16' for the
TS. Few of us have the space needed for either one and must overlap space.
The RAS is much easier to use for cross cuts and miter cuts while the TS is
by far the best for ripcuts, and sheet goods. The TS is easier to adjust
(even with a loggy fence) then the RAS and the TS tends to stay in
adjustment better then the RAS. The RAS has more of a tendency to climb the
blade over the stock being cut and come after the cutter then the TS does,
this is scary to most people, but with proper handling can be avoided. Most
RAS units are underpowered and will jam and lock if not used properly, this
is also scary to most wood workers, but can be avoided if the saw is use
properly. The RAS has more of a tendency to Kickback when ripping then the
TS, this can be avoided by proper adjustment of the sawhead, (I have used
this tendency to clear the table when making large numbers of narrow rips,
scares the bejabbers out of passersby). The RAS is a little harder to use
for the average weekend woodworker, because it takes more skill to learn to
use and keep in good adjustment then the TS. Both are good tools and can
slice wood up real well. What are you doing and which will do you the better
job is the question. I like the RAS better then the TS but find the TS to
be used far more then the RAS in my shop. Just my opinion.
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a really crappy table saw. It takes 5 minutes to adjust the fence
> and then it is adequate for ripping; but it is completely worthless for
> crosscutting. I need something better than I have, and am willing to
invest
> $500. (yes, I can hear you all laughing about buying something good for
> $500, but that's my budget)
>
> If I didn't have any table saw, it would be an easy choice, but since I
> do... What do you recommend, and why?
>
> I just finished a bookcase to hold an antique clock in our entryway. My
> next projects are a towel cabinet and an over the toilet cabinet for the
> bathroom. Thanks.
>
>
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > The RAS has more of a tendency to Kickback when ripping then the
> TS, this can be avoided by proper adjustment of the sawhead, (I have used
> this tendency to clear the table when making large numbers of narrow rips,
> scares the bejabbers out of passersby).
>
> Use of a push board eliminates any sort of kick back when ripping narrow
> pieces. It's easy to make, safe to use and does the job.
>
> > The RAS has more of a tendency to climb the
> > blade over the stock being cut and come after the cutter then the TS
does,
> > this is scary to most people, but with proper handling can be avoided.
>
> Use of a proper blade in diameter and profile virtually eliminates any
sort
> of climb, i.e. the Forrest WW1 blade with triple chip profile with
diameter
> matched to the amp rating of the saw.
>
> A quality RAS (DeWalt) is pleasure to use.
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
I pray you never get hurt ripping on the RAS. A board with some wild grain
and internal stresses can cause some big problems.
I teach my students to pick up a skill saw and rip something before they rip
with a RAS, and I tell them why.
Flame away if you wish, but IMHO, ripping with a RAS should be avoided, and
then avoided some more.
--
Jim in NC
Ripping with a RAS can be as safe as with a TS and safer then with a skill
saw (those things scare me). Maybe with kids in a classroom setting I would
avoid it too, but 30 years ago I taught the technique to HS kids, and then
let them use the TS to rip with.
> I pray you never get hurt ripping on the RAS. A board with some wild
grain
> and internal stresses can cause some big problems.
Let me tell you about the stressed, twisted and simirotten board I ripped
with a RAS if you want to hear a wild tale. It can be "fun" sometime.
>
> I teach my students to pick up a skill saw and rip something before they
rip
> with a RAS, and I tell them why.
>
> Flame away if you wish, but IMHO, ripping with a RAS should be avoided,
and
> then avoided some more.
> --
> Jim in NC
>
>