Yeah, the 45 get smaller as you come up out of horizontal. I have a
chart I use (not handy at the moment) but the change is pretty slight,
just a few degrees, maybe less than 2 for a 15 degree lift.
Maybe you can find a chart online.
william kossack wrote:
> I've made a few simple picture frames. My miter saw seems adjusted
> well. Today I tried cutting a bevel on a picture frame in order to try
> to create a frame with the wood angled out.
>
> What is the trick? I set my bevel to say 15 degrees and then cut the
> miters at 45 and it did not fit.
william kossack wrote:
> I've made a few simple picture frames. My miter saw seems adjusted
> well. Today I tried cutting a bevel on a picture frame in order to try
> to create a frame with the wood angled out.
>
> What is the trick? I set my bevel to say 15 degrees and then cut the
> miters at 45 and it did not fit.
Firstly forget angles, put your bevel away. secondly dont forget that
your rebates in the back of the frame moulding also need to be
adjusted.
Thirdly to cut the correct angle, set your saw on a straight mitre cut,
but block up the back of the moulding to the height you want. I fix a
piece of 1/4 x 1/4 on the back of a 2" frame, or on the saw bed and
then cut your normal mitre. Except I cut mine by hand and eye with a
tenon saw...but I'm old and doddery!!!!!!!!!..but they fit perfectly.
Give it a try and best of luck.
Nice. Yeah, ,I was thinking too hard. Now that I think of it I do the
same thing for molding. I was thinking back to a waste basket I made up
of mitered Ply on the TS but anything small enough for the miter saw is
lots easier.
phil wrote:
> william kossack wrote:
> > I've made a few simple picture frames. My miter saw seems adjusted
> > well. Today I tried cutting a bevel on a picture frame in order to try
> > to create a frame with the wood angled out.
> >
> > What is the trick? I set my bevel to say 15 degrees and then cut the
> > miters at 45 and it did not fit.
>
> Firstly forget angles, put your bevel away. secondly dont forget that
> your rebates in the back of the frame moulding also need to be
> adjusted.
>
> Thirdly to cut the correct angle, set your saw on a straight mitre cut,
> but block up the back of the moulding to the height you want. I fix a
> piece of 1/4 x 1/4 on the back of a 2" frame, or on the saw bed and
> then cut your normal mitre. Except I cut mine by hand and eye with a
> tenon saw...but I'm old and doddery!!!!!!!!!..but they fit perfectly.
>
> Give it a try and best of luck.