LA

Limp Arbor

11/04/2008 5:27 AM

Questions: Bosch 1132VSR, Makita DA3000R

I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle
drill.

Bosch 1132VSR:
Is the on-off switch a slide type switch?
Does the switch turn off when you let go or do you have to pull it
back?
(you could really get jammed up if it is not a momentary on switch)
Is there a second handle or a threaded hole to add one?
(doesn't look like it from the picture)


Makita DA3000R:
Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away?
(the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does)
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-DA3000R-8-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00002269W
http://www.tylertool.com/makda338vsra.html
(different model number at Tyler DA3010F)

Dewalt 960:
Is this a 'real' DeWalt tool or the crappy 18V drill I bought at
Lowes for $99

Others:
I can't use the Milwaukee or other 1/2 r-angle drills because I only
have 7" to work in
recommendations?


This topic has 10 replies

Sk

"Swingman"

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 9:06 AM


"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Swingman" showed us a picture of his drill


> Tell us about it. How powerful is it? I presume it is only for small
jobs.

More power than a cordless ... I've never come even close to bogging it
down, if that's what you mean.

> Does that monsterous trigger ever go off before you want it to?

Never been a problem ...the trigger/paddle is a variable speed control, so
the more you squeeze down, the faster it goes.

> How is it anglewise in terms of reaching back into a cabinet and using it?

Works like you'd expect it too ... IOW, it does what I bought it for. :)

That said, if you put a 8" drill bit on it, expect that will need more
clearance. ;)

> Does the cord get in the way?

Never been a problem with the "close quarter" part, by design.

> Etc, etc!!

It's like any other" specialty" tool ... when you really need it, it saves a
lot of cussing/blue air, other than that, you may forget you have it.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Sk

"Swingman"

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 8:23 AM


"Limp Arbor" wrote

> Others:
> I can't use the Milwaukee or other 1/2 r-angle drills because I only
> have 7" to work in
> recommendations?

Which Milwaukee? If the Milwaukee "close quarter" is too big, then the
Makita and Bosch you mention, which are all almost identical in size, may be
also.

http://www.tylertool.com/milwaukee55.html

I own the above and use it when installing slides in kitchen cabinets and
other tight spots.

If it helps, the head of the drill, from the top to the mouth of the chuck,
is a bit less than 3 3/4".

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

LA

Limp Arbor

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 7:56 AM

On Apr 11, 9:23=A0am, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Limp Arbor" wrote
>
> > Others:
> > =A0I can't use the Milwaukee or other 1/2 r-angle drills because I only
> > have 7" to work in
> > =A0recommendations?
>
> Which Milwaukee? If the Milwaukee "close quarter" is too big, then the
> Makita and Bosch you mention, which are all almost identical in size, may =
be
> also.

this milwaukee is too big
http://www.mytoolstore.com/milwauke/3107-6.html
A little over 5"

>
> http://www.tylertool.com/milwaukee55.html

Looks like a nice tool but I am drilling down and will backing up
against the subfloor so the angle of the tool and cord placement will
be a problem. If I did a lot of cabinetry work I would definitley own
one.

This might be a possibility. I e-mailed Milwaukee to get the specs
http://www.tools-plus.com/milwaukee-1680-21.html
but it doesn't look much smaller than the 3107

I think I can get by with the Makita or Bosch 3/8 because I only need
to drill 1/2 holes into cinder block. I did a test hole in the garage
and the 1/2" bit went in fairly easily with a non-hammer drill and a
new bit. The DW 18V cordless RA might also work but it has no side
handle to help me pull it down

Rental is out because the places I chack all have the bigger Milwaukee
or the gargantuan Hilti


As an aside why don't any of the manufacturers post the size of these
drills? For a regular dril I could see it is not that important, but
for a R-angle drill wouldn't the chuck tip to end of tool be something
a potential buyer would want to know?
I know I want to know.

LA

Limp Arbor

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 12:06 PM

On Apr 11, 11:32=A0am, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Limp Arbor" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> > I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle
> > drill.
> > Makita DA3000R:
> > Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away?
> > =A0(the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does)
> > =A0http://www.amazon.com/Makita-DA3000R-8-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B000022=
69W
> > =A0http://www.tylertool.com/makda338vsra.html
> > =A0(different model number at Tyler DA3010F)
> > recommendations?
>
> My Makita DA3000R does not have the hole for a handle but it's about ten
> years old so I'm inclined to believe that the model from Tyler is a newer
> edition.
>
> Max

Amazon has the 3010 also and of course cheaper than anywhere else (I
hope) and free shipping. I just ordered it for $171.

Now I need some 1/2" reduced shank Masonry bits...

En

"EXT"

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 11:10 AM


"Limp Arbor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle
> drill.
>
> Bosch 1132VSR:
> Is the on-off switch a slide type switch?

The paddle slides from a lock position to a press in position, the more you
press the faster it goes, release it and it returns to the lock position. On
the back end is a speed dial that controls the maximum speed. On the top is
the forward/reverse switch.

> Does the switch turn off when you let go or do you have to pull it
> back?
> (you could really get jammed up if it is not a momentary on switch)
> Is there a second handle or a threaded hole to add one?

There is no place to add a handle however the body is at 90 degrees to the
drill shank and is long enough that it has been no problem holding on to it.

It worked for me in a very difficult location, trying to feed some wires
above the basement wall, between two close joists and drilling up behind the
drywall, while trying to reach over a cabinet installed on the wall flush
with the ceiling with very little room to see what I was doing.

> (doesn't look like it from the picture)
>
>
> Makita DA3000R:
> Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away?
> (the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does)
> http://www.amazon.com/Makita-DA3000R-8-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00002269W
> http://www.tylertool.com/makda338vsra.html
> (different model number at Tyler DA3010F)
>
> Dewalt 960:
> Is this a 'real' DeWalt tool or the crappy 18V drill I bought at
> Lowes for $99
>
> Others:
> I can't use the Milwaukee or other 1/2 r-angle drills because I only
> have 7" to work in
> recommendations?

Mt

"Max"

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 3:32 PM

"Limp Arbor" <[email protected]> wrote

> I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle
> drill.


> Makita DA3000R:
> Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away?
> (the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does)
> http://www.amazon.com/Makita-DA3000R-8-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00002269W
> http://www.tylertool.com/makda338vsra.html
> (different model number at Tyler DA3010F)

> recommendations?

My Makita DA3000R does not have the hole for a handle but it's about ten
years old so I'm inclined to believe that the model from Tyler is a newer
edition.

Max

LM

"Lee Michaels"

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 9:36 AM


"Swingman" showed us a picture of his drill
>
> Which Milwaukee? If the Milwaukee "close quarter" is too big, then the
> Makita and Bosch you mention, which are all almost identical in size, may
> be
> also.
>
> http://www.tylertool.com/milwaukee55.html
>
> I own the above and use it when installing slides in kitchen cabinets and
> other tight spots.
>
That looks like a good ergonomic design, especially for a corded drill.

Tell us about it. How powerful is it? I presume it is only for small jobs.

Does that monsterous trigger ever go off before you want it to?

How is it anglewise in terms of reaching back into a cabinet and using it?

Does the cord get in the way?

Etc, etc!!


Lr

"Leon"

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 12:42 PM


"Limp Arbor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle
> drill.
>
> Bosch 1132VSR:
> Is the on-off switch a slide type switch?
> Does the switch turn off when you let go or do you have to pull it
> back?
> (you could really get jammed up if it is not a momentary on switch)
> Is there a second handle or a threaded hole to add one?
> (doesn't look like it from the picture)
>
>
> Makita DA3000R:
> Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away?
> (the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does)
> http://www.amazon.com/Makita-DA3000R-8-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00002269W
> http://www.tylertool.com/makda338vsra.html
> (different model number at Tyler DA3010F)
>
> Dewalt 960:
> Is this a 'real' DeWalt tool or the crappy 18V drill I bought at
> Lowes for $99
>
> Others:
> I can't use the Milwaukee or other 1/2 r-angle drills because I only
> have 7" to work in
> recommendations?

Get a right angle adapter, they usually cost around $40.



LA

Limp Arbor

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 10:48 AM

On Apr 11, 11:32=A0am, "Max" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Limp Arbor" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> > I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle
> > drill.
> > Makita DA3000R:
> > Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away?
> > =A0(the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does)
> > =A0http://www.amazon.com/Makita-DA3000R-8-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B000022=
69W
> > =A0http://www.tylertool.com/makda338vsra.html
> > =A0(different model number at Tyler DA3010F)
> > recommendations?
>
> My Makita DA3000R does not have the hole for a handle but it's about ten
> years old so I'm inclined to believe that the model from Tyler is a newer
> edition.
>
> Max

They are different and surprisingly they list 2 5/8" as the head
height for the 3010, but no spec for the 3000
http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=3Dproduct_det&tag=3DDA3010F

ee

evodawg

in reply to Limp Arbor on 11/04/2008 5:27 AM

11/04/2008 1:42 PM

Limp Arbor wrote:

> I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle
> drill.
>
> Bosch 1132VSR:
> Is the on-off switch a slide type switch?
> Does the switch turn off when you let go or do you have to pull it
> back?
> (you could really get jammed up if it is not a momentary on switch)
> Is there a second handle or a threaded hole to add one?
> (doesn't look like it from the picture)
>
>
> Makita DA3000R:
> Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away?
> (the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does)
> http://www.amazon.com/Makita-DA3000R-8-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00002269W
> http://www.tylertool.com/makda338vsra.html
> (different model number at Tyler DA3010F)
>
> Dewalt 960:
> Is this a 'real' DeWalt tool or the crappy 18V drill I bought at
> Lowes for $99
>
> Others:
> I can't use the Milwaukee or other 1/2 r-angle drills because I only
> have 7" to work in
> recommendations?
I use a right angle attachment for my old 14.4 Porter Cable and it works
great! It's a cheap fix.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"


You’ve reached the end of replies