A DAGS indicates this subject has not been discussed recently, and I would
like to request current thinking.
I am about to pull the trigger on a General 650 CS, which will find its home
in my garage shop. I am faced with the option of paying less than $200 more
(plus additional wiring costs) for a 5HP motor over the 3HP version.
I am most certainly a hobbyist (and a fairly new one at that), but I would
like this purchase to be the last in the category.
Thoughts/recommendations?
(Gratuitous jockstrap-size like claims already assumed <g>).
/rick
"RickS" <rick --dot-- s --at-- comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A DAGS indicates this subject has not been discussed recently, and I would
> like to request current thinking.
>
> I am about to pull the trigger on a General 650 CS, which will find its
home
> in my garage shop. I am faced with the option of paying less than $200
more
> (plus additional wiring costs) for a 5HP motor over the 3HP version.
>
> I am most certainly a hobbyist (and a fairly new one at that), but I would
> like this purchase to be the last in the category.
>
> Thoughts/recommendations?
>
> (Gratuitous jockstrap-size like claims already assumed <g>).
>
> /rick
>
>
Don't really understand the obsession with power. I run a professional 12"
Wadkin with a 3 HP, I normally cut 8/4 hard maple, but occasionally rip 12/4
teak, all no problem. It has been suggested that if were ripping 8 hours a
day with a stock feeder the 5HP might be beneficial, maybe, but if I had
that need I'd be doing it on a bandsaw. I do know that the 12" 3 HP Wadkins
were the main workhorse in UK shops for years, I don't think they even
offered a 5 HP and don't forget these machines were designed when carbide
blades were as rare as hens teeth.
Bernard R
charlie b wrote:
> (I still don't know why you can buy a car that'll do
> 200+ mph when the max speed limit is about
> 1/3rd that speed. Maybe being able to actually
> see your gas gauge drop as you drive?)
About once every 2.5 years I *need* the acceleration of my
1995 Viagra^H^H^H^H^H^HFirebird for a brief instant.
Its near-Corvette-class handling and braking has kept me from two accidents
on the beloved Washington DC beltway. It just turned over 140,000 miles so
the time is coming when I'll have to take it out and shoot it. But for the
next car I refuse to step down in terms of performance. My commute with the
idiots is 37 miles each way... <sigh> (Maybe I *can* build kitchen
cabinets for sale in my one car garage shop... ;-)
-- Mark
>I am about to pull the trigger on a General 650 CS, which will find its home
>in my garage shop. I am faced with the option of paying less than $200 more
>(plus additional wiring costs) for a 5HP motor over the 3HP version.
Yes it's probably overkill. If you are a beginner, there is nothing wrong with
getting a nice precision piece of equipment (I hae a 3HP Unisaw, and nhave
never needed even more power). A sugestion though. After doing this for a long
time, I had the tablesaw, and then, years later, got the MiniMax 16 bandsaw. If
I had to do it again, I would get, in this order:
Bandaw, Jointer and Planer, radial arm or chop saw, then a tablesaw.
i just purchased the general 650 with a 5HP motor - no regrets. for the
price difference, i don't know why you wouldn't do it.
one warning -- if you get the left tilt model, and plan on getting an
excalibur sliding table, know that you won't be able to open the motor
cover with the table installed.
good luck.
--- dz
RickS wrote:
> A DAGS indicates this subject has not been discussed recently, and I would
> like to request current thinking.
>
> I am about to pull the trigger on a General 650 CS, which will find its home
> in my garage shop. I am faced with the option of paying less than $200 more
> (plus additional wiring costs) for a 5HP motor over the 3HP version.
>
> I am most certainly a hobbyist (and a fairly new one at that), but I would
> like this purchase to be the last in the category.
>
> Thoughts/recommendations?
>
> (Gratuitous jockstrap-size like claims already assumed <g>).
>
> /rick
>
>
A 283 in an old MG is pushin' things a bit. Adding a
blower or an NO2 set up is ...
Spend the extra bucks on a few really good saw blades
and/or some finger boards/ push stick and maybe
some wood.
charlie b
(I still don't know why you can buy a car that'll do
200+ mph when the max speed limit is about
1/3rd that speed. Maybe being able to actually
see your gas gauge drop as you drive?)
"Chris Melanson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:XGvmc.27221$U75.19818@edtnps89...
> I personally would get the 5 HP model. Even if you never use the full
> capacity of the saw the more power is better. Think about this with the 5
HP
> you are not running the motor as close to peak output as if you were a 3HP
> at any time thus reducing overall stress and wear on the motor and in turn
> the larger motor should last longer. It is like the difference between a
V6
> pulling a trailor and a V8. They can both do it but which reeives more
wear
> and tear. Less stress = longer life. The harder you work something the
> shorter the lifespan in general. But if short term economics are a factor
go
> with the 3 HP model.
>
> CHRIS
With all due respect, I resaw 5.5" wide Ipe, an iron wood, with the blade
all the way up. With 3hp I don't ever hear a change in speed as I make the
complete cut. 1.5 to 2 hp is plenty, 3hp is bordering on over kill. I
never use the full capacity of the motor.
"charlie b" <[email protected]> wrote...
> A 283 in an old MG is pushin' things a bit. Adding a
> blower or an NO2 set up is ...
> [snip]
> (I still don't know why you can buy a car that'll do
> 200+ mph when the max speed limit is about
> 1/3rd that speed. Maybe being able to actually
> see your gas gauge drop as you drive?)
Ya means ya never had yer MG over 180 MP freakin' H yet?
Ya doh know whature missin' mister! Yeeeeee Haaaaaawwww.
I personally would get the 5 HP model. Even if you never use the full
capacity of the saw the more power is better. Think about this with the 5 HP
you are not running the motor as close to peak output as if you were a 3HP
at any time thus reducing overall stress and wear on the motor and in turn
the larger motor should last longer. It is like the difference between a V6
pulling a trailor and a V8. They can both do it but which reeives more wear
and tear. Less stress = longer life. The harder you work something the
shorter the lifespan in general. But if short term economics are a factor go
with the 3 HP model.
CHRIS
"RickS" <rick --dot-- s --at-- comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A DAGS indicates this subject has not been discussed recently, and I would
> like to request current thinking.
>
> I am about to pull the trigger on a General 650 CS, which will find its
home
> in my garage shop. I am faced with the option of paying less than $200
more
> (plus additional wiring costs) for a 5HP motor over the 3HP version.
>
> I am most certainly a hobbyist (and a fairly new one at that), but I would
> like this purchase to be the last in the category.
>
> Thoughts/recommendations?
>
> (Gratuitous jockstrap-size like claims already assumed <g>).
>
> /rick
>
>
> Don't really understand the obsession with power. I run a professional
12"
> Wadkin with a 3 HP, I normally cut 8/4 hard maple, but occasionally rip
12/4
> teak, all no problem. It has been suggested that if were ripping 8 hours
a
> day with a stock feeder the 5HP might be beneficial, maybe, but if I had
> that need I'd be doing it on a bandsaw. I do know that the 12" 3 HP
Wadkins
> were the main workhorse in UK shops for years, I don't think they even
> offered a 5 HP and don't forget these machines were designed when carbide
> blades were as rare as hens teeth.
>
> Bernard R
It is a little known fact that back in the day, carbide blades were MADE out
of hens teeth.
Thus the scarcity of both.
Jack
"RickS" wrote in message
> I am most certainly a hobbyist (and a fairly new one at that), but I would
> like this purchase to be the last in the category.
>
> Thoughts/recommendations?
Forego the extra HP and put the money into a good dado set, a top notch
blade, or wood for a project. It is highly unlikely that you will ever miss
the extra hp in a personal workshop, or even in a "pro" shop for that
matter.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/13/04
In article <w%[email protected]>,
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "RickS" <rick --dot-- s --at-- comcast.net> wrote in message
> >
> > I am about to pull the trigger on a General 650 CS, which will find its
> home
> > in my garage shop. I am faced with the option of paying less than $200
> more
> > (plus additional wiring costs) for a 5HP motor over the 3HP version.
>
> Many of use a 1.5 HP with no problems so 3 HP would be a dream. Can't think
> if a single reason a guy in your position would ever need 5HP. I'd use the
> difference to buy a router or blades. Unless your hobby is cutting up old
> railroad ties.
> Ed
Not to mention the electrical draw. I've got 200 amp service and I
still dim the lights for a moment when my 220V 3HP saw spins up. My
wife says when she's in the bedroom and I'm in the shop, she can't hear
the saw but she knows when I'm using because the lights flicker. I
can't imagine what a 5 HP motor would do. Does it come with soft-start?
Roy Smith responds:
>
>Not to mention the electrical draw. I've got 200 amp service and I
>still dim the lights for a moment when my 220V 3HP saw spins up. My
>wife says when she's in the bedroom and I'm in the shop, she can't hear
>the saw but she knows when I'm using because the lights flicker. I
>can't imagine what a 5 HP motor would do. Does it come with soft-start?
>
You'd better get that wiring checked. I ran a 3 horse Unisaw for years without
any diminution in lighting, AC or anything else, including a running compressor
while the AC units were on. That was on a 200 amp box that was for the shop
alone, but the idea holds true. If you have that saw on a separate circuit, and
the box isn't overloaded already, there should be no dimming.
Charlie Self
"Don't let yesterday use up too much of today." Will Rogers
[email protected] (Charlie Self) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Roy Smith responds:
> You'd better get that wiring checked. I ran a 3 horse Unisaw for years without
> any diminution in lighting, AC or anything else, including a running compressor
> while the AC units were on.
I just started up my 3 hp Unisaw and saw absolutely no dimming of the
lights, and that is on a circuit box that is already at the limit. I
have an upgrade planned, but need to know how much I might need when I
get A/C installed first.
If a 20amp max load appliance is dimming the lights you have a
problem...
When I was looking into saws I found that there is actually quite a
kick up in complexity when you go to 5hp. According to the building
codes a 5hp saw should be permanently wired rather than on a plug -
personally I would ignore this since the risk of chopping your hand
off during a blade change is much greater than any risk that might
come from that plug (and in any case the saw won't take any more than
an electric stove).
5 HP is way overkill for anyone but a production shop. And they may not
need it either.
I have a 3 HP Unisaw and it never bogs down. Ever.
Spend the $200 on something else.
Rob
"RickS" <rick --dot-- s --at-- comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A DAGS indicates this subject has not been discussed recently, and I would
> like to request current thinking.
>
> I am about to pull the trigger on a General 650 CS, which will find its
home
> in my garage shop. I am faced with the option of paying less than $200
more
> (plus additional wiring costs) for a 5HP motor over the 3HP version.
>
> I am most certainly a hobbyist (and a fairly new one at that), but I would
> like this purchase to be the last in the category.
>
> Thoughts/recommendations?
>
> (Gratuitous jockstrap-size like claims already assumed <g>).
>
> /rick
>
>
"RickS" <rick --dot-- s --at-- comcast.net> wrote in message
>
> I am about to pull the trigger on a General 650 CS, which will find its
home
> in my garage shop. I am faced with the option of paying less than $200
more
> (plus additional wiring costs) for a 5HP motor over the 3HP version.
Many of use a 1.5 HP with no problems so 3 HP would be a dream. Can't think
if a single reason a guy in your position would ever need 5HP. I'd use the
difference to buy a router or blades. Unless your hobby is cutting up old
railroad ties.
Ed