Hi, folks,
All of a sudden my Grizzly tablesaw is all out of alignment. I've done
my best to measure the squareness of the blade to the miter slot in
the table and it seems to be WAY off--like almost 1/4 difference at
the front of the blade and the back.
I've never had to do this adjustment before, so everything I know
about it is what I've read here. The thing is, mostly people seem to
be talking about TINY adjustments, in the thousandths of an inch.
If I'm this far out of square, am I still looking at loosening the
trunnions and whacking with a hammer? Or is there something else going
on?
Thanks for any advice!
DS
That seems like a very good suggestion. It's a pretty new saw and
maybe something came loose... If anyone has suggestions on what
specifically I might be looking for, I could sure use the help! (I
wish it were as simple as a wobble blade!)
DS
On Apr 15, 1:18 pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
>
> Is that a 1/4 inch? Would sure seem to indicate that something loosened up
> dramatically. (You didn't forget to remove a wobble dado, did you?)
>
> If the saw got out of adjustment by that much suddenly, it is possible
> something else came loose or even broke, I would give everything
> a good visual inspection before adjusting the trunions. On my saw, there
> is a C-clip that retains the arbor. It popped off once and had me
> rally scratching my head until I noticed it was missing.
>
> --
> Often wrong, never in doubt.
>
> Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
I noticed the problem when I re-adjusted the blad to make a 45 degree
cut. I couldn't turn the blade to full 45 without it hitting the
throat plate. That alone made me think something was off.
I have been measuring to a marked point on the blade using a stick
with a screw in the end clamped to the miter bar. Not the height of
accuracy I know, but accurate enough for the distance I'm seeing,
close enough?
DS
On Apr 25, 7:34 pm, "DanG" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm sorry for your difficulties.
>
> If you have a zero clearance throat plate, it will not work when
> you lean the saw over on a 45=B0. You need a plate with a wider
> throat.
>
No, this was the regular throat plate, so I should be able to make
that 45 degree cut.
> I have known saws that needed to have the hole(s) in the trunnion
> enlarged to allow adjustment. I assume you have loosened the
> trunnion bolt to the point of coming out to make sure the front is
> loose, though it should only need to be loosened so a heavy blow
> will move the end.
Right, I had made them super loose to make sure I can make any
adjustment at all. I asked this question, stated differently, again,
and someone suggested making sure that wheel to adjust the blade angle
was loose from the cabinet--that this could keep the front trunnion
from adjusting. I'm going to try that later today.
I sure hope I don't have to drill out the holes or something!
"VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, folks,
> All of a sudden my Grizzly tablesaw is all out of alignment. I've done
> my best to measure the squareness of the blade to the miter slot in
> the table and it seems to be WAY off--like almost 1/4 difference at
> the front of the blade and the back.
>
> I've never had to do this adjustment before, so everything I know
> about it is what I've read here. The thing is, mostly people seem to
> be talking about TINY adjustments, in the thousandths of an inch.
>
> If I'm this far out of square, am I still looking at loosening the
> trunnions and whacking with a hammer? Or is there something else going
> on?
>
> Thanks for any advice!
>
> DS
>
How are you checking for alignment? If you are checking for alignment
parallel with the miter slot, make sure you use the SAME spot on the blade
for the front and back measurement. This could have a BIG effect. Mark
the blade with a sharpie and take a measurement in the front then spin the
blade positioning the sharpie spot in the back and remeasure.
What are you using to make these measurements?
--
Stoutman
www.garagewoodworks.com
> How are you checking for alignment? If you are checking for alignment
> parallel with the miter slot, make sure you use the SAME spot on the blade
> for the front and back measurement. This could have a BIG effect.
I should state that this will have a big effect if your blade is warped or
has low and hi spots on it. Not sure if it will account for 1/4" but it
might account for some of your error.
That is a fairly tricky procedure...
Loose bolts will not work.
I would read this procedure:
http://support.dewalt.com/cgi-bin/dewalt.cfg/php/enduser/std_alp.php?p_sid=1L7TC4Ai&p_lva=&p_li=&p_new_search=1&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_srch=1&p_sort_by=&p_gridsort=&p_row_cnt=209&p_prods=0&p_cats=1459&p_pv=&p_cv=1.1459&p_search_text=&p_nav=foot&p_li=&p_page_head=1&p_page=1&p_page_foot=1
Search on "contractor saw"....
You want the PDF that is titled "Contractor Saw with 2 Tie Bars --
Blade Alignment".
VeryLargeCorp wrote:
>
> Right, I had made them super loose to make sure I can make any
> adjustment at all. I asked this question, stated differently, again,
> and someone suggested making sure that wheel to adjust the blade angle
> was loose from the cabinet--that this could keep the front trunnion
> from adjusting. I'm going to try that later today.
>
> I sure hope I don't have to drill out the holes or something!
>
I'm sorry for your difficulties.
If you have a zero clearance throat plate, it will not work when
you lean the saw over on a 45°. You need a plate with a wider
throat.
Your alignment tool sound plenty accurate enough. You should mark
some one tooth on the blade (felt tip) and check the same place on
the blade. Your blade would be really warped for this to make a
difference.
I have known saws that needed to have the hole(s) in the trunnion
enlarged to allow adjustment. I assume you have loosened the
trunnion bolt to the point of coming out to make sure the front is
loose, though it should only need to be loosened so a heavy blow
will move the end.
There is a set of alignment clips called PALS that make your task
easier: <http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html>
Here is one the best descriptions of what you are trying to do:
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/alineit-test3.html
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I noticed the problem when I re-adjusted the blad to make a 45
>degree
> cut. I couldn't turn the blade to full 45 without it hitting
> the
> throat plate. That alone made me think something was off.
>
> I have been measuring to a marked point on the blade using a
> stick
> with a screw in the end clamped to the miter bar. Not the height
> of
> accuracy I know, but accurate enough for the distance I'm
> seeing,
> close enough?
>
> DS
>
"VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You're right, I should have said it's a contractor saw (Grizzly
> G044). I'll definitely check the arbor, but I haven't been aware of
> any slop. I have time this afternoon to give it a good once-over. I'm
> hoping it's something obvious that I can find...
>
> ds
>
I have the G0444Z too and I had the same problem 1/4" off after using a
while. I fixed it by adjusting the trunions to bring it in. I put a dial
gauge on mine and got it in to 2000th off. I heard that was good enough. I
had to put a large clamp on my rear trunion to move it and then I tightened
the bolts down before removing the clamp. I been toying with the idea of
removing the rear trunion and elongating the holes so that I can bring it in
even closer. Do any of you think this is a good idea before I do it?
If I had it to do all over again no matter what brand of saw, I think that
after one puts a saw together it would be a good idea to first check the
blade before using because the bolts and screws probably are not fully
tightened and before long come loose.
In article <[email protected]>,
VeryLargeCorp <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi, folks,
>All of a sudden my Grizzly tablesaw is all out of alignment. I've done
>my best to measure the squareness of the blade to the miter slot in
>the table and it seems to be WAY off--like almost 1/4 difference at
>the front of the blade and the back.
>
>I've never had to do this adjustment before, so everything I know
>about it is what I've read here. The thing is, mostly people seem to
>be talking about TINY adjustments, in the thousandths of an inch.
>
>If I'm this far out of square, am I still looking at loosening the
>trunnions and whacking with a hammer? Or is there something else going
>on?
>
>Thanks for any advice!
>
>DS
>
Is that a 1/4 inch? Would sure seem to indicate that something loosened up
dramatically. (You didn't forget to remove a wobble dado, did you?)
If the saw got out of adjustment by that much suddenly, it is possible
something else came loose or even broke, I would give everything
a good visual inspection before adjusting the trunions. On my saw, there
is a C-clip that retains the arbor. It popped off once and had me
rally scratching my head until I noticed it was missing.
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
DS,
Guess I'll be the first one to say it - Are you sure that you measured
things properly? I don't have a Grizzly saw - mine is a Jet Contractor's
Saw; but even if I loosened all of the trunnion bolts and moved them as far
as they would go to one side I would only get about 1/16 to 3/32 inch of
total mis-alignment. That is as far as my trunnions will move. If you
really have 1/4 inch of mis-alignment in your saw; then I believe something
must be broken - especially if it happened suddenly.
Jim Seelye
"VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi, folks,
> All of a sudden my Grizzly tablesaw is all out of alignment. I've done
> my best to measure the squareness of the blade to the miter slot in
> the table and it seems to be WAY off--like almost 1/4 difference at
> the front of the blade and the back.
>
> I've never had to do this adjustment before, so everything I know
> about it is what I've read here. The thing is, mostly people seem to
> be talking about TINY adjustments, in the thousandths of an inch.
>
> If I'm this far out of square, am I still looking at loosening the
> trunnions and whacking with a hammer? Or is there something else going
> on?
>
> Thanks for any advice!
>
> DS
>
On 15 Apr 2007 13:43:43 -0700, "VeryLargeCorp" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>That seems like a very good suggestion. It's a pretty new saw and
>maybe something came loose... If anyone has suggestions on what
>specifically I might be looking for, I could sure use the help! (I
>wish it were as simple as a wobble blade!)
[...snip...]
You don't say if it is a cabinet saw or a contractor style. Either
way, if it is fairly new and off that much, you should try out the
Grizzly support folks.
I think you can find some guides to aligning a table saw on the
Internet. One of the first steps in aligning a table saw is to take
the blade off, grab the arbor, and see if there is any slop in it. If
there is, there's no point in adjusting it until that is fixed.
Will,
I had the same problem but to a much lesser degree on my Delta
contractor's saw. I elongated the mounting holes and still couldn't
get it right-on. That's when I noticed the problem wasn't the I.D. of
the hole but there was an interference between the O.D of the boss and
a rib on the bottom of the table. After I ground the interfering
areas I was able to make all adjustments easily.
G.S.
On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 18:45:29 -0500, "Will" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I been toying with the idea of
>removing the rear trunion and elongating the holes so that I can bring it in
>even closer. Do any of you think this is a good idea before I do it?