An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
In article <[email protected]>, Tim west
<timedream95(remoove)@gmail.com> wrote:
> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
I'd rip it along the seam, lose 1/8" of width, and re-glue it rather
than trying to fill the gap.
djb
--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx
On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 19:27:30 -0500, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "jmcquown" wrote:
>>
>>> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
>>> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
>> ----------------------------------------------
>> That's just to simple and low cost.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>>
>>
>
>My mother is still using the Mahogany and Maple one I made in the late
>70's. I think it's a full inch thick. She doesn't even remember or care
>that I made it, but I enjoy seeing it still in use when I visit.
I'll bet she remembers. I'm using a board my dad cut for my sister
who painted a design on the back. It was a mother's day present in
the early 60's. The design is nearly gone-- but sis burned her
initials in it. I should probably wrap it up and give it one of her
grandchildren. Nah-- I like it.
Jim
On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 19:36:03 -0800, sf <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:58:42 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
>wrote:
>
>> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
>> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.
>
>Get real. No matter how he repairs it, he needs a vise. Most
>ordinary people who don't have "equipment" are lucky to have a hammer
>and a set of screwdrivers.
Most folks can find a piece of rope and a stick, and use a tourniquet
as a clamp... that's how I reglue chairs. Most woodworkers wouldn't
use a bench vise for gluing anyway, they'd much more likely use
parallel clamps rather than tie up the vise for many hours.
George M. Middius wrote:
>Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>> > Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
>> > sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
>>
>> That's just to[sic] simple and low cost.
>
>Maybe the board in question is large and would be expensive to
>replace.
The average home wood kitchen board costs like $10... but I'd attempt
to repair even a small board if only for the challenge... a couple
dabs of glue is no big investment. And if not used within its
relatively short shelf life glues become unusable so if ya got it may
as well use it before it goes bad.
isw wrote:
>
>If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>work that into the cracks.
Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
wood filler:
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
On 12/02/2012 04:32 AM, Tim west wrote:
> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>
>
I'd run each edge surface over the jointer until flat, then re-glue with
TB3.
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
On 12/03/2012 03:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>>
>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:
>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>>
>>
> because wood filler will not work.
>
> it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
> and has other downsides.
>
> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
> for advice.
>
>
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
On 12/03/2012 03:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>>
>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:
>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>>
>>
> because wood filler will not work.
>
> it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
> and has other downsides.
>
> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
> for advice.
>
>
All he needs to do is rip it down the center of the glue line on a
tablesaw (or with a guide and a circular saw) and re-glue it.
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
> isw wrote:
>
> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
> and
> work that into the cracks.
---------------------------------------------------------
Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?
Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.
They fill without reducing strength.
--------------------------------------------------
"Doug Winterburn" wrote:
> All he needs to do is rip it down the center of the glue line on a
> tablesaw (or with a guide and a circular saw) and re-glue it.
---------------------------------------------------
Mix some epoxy and micro-balloons to the consistancy of mayo,
then butter both cut surfaces, mush together with hand pressure,
hold in place with spring clmps for 24-48 hours, the remove excess
epoxy and sand flush.
When the board returns to compost, the epoxy will still be in service.
Lew
On 12/03/2012 03:58 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 5:44 PM, jmcquown wrote:
>> On 12/3/2012 5:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>>> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>>>> isw wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>>>> work that into the cracks.
>>>>
>>>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>>>> wood filler:
>>>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>>>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
>>> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
>>> for advice.
>>>
>>
>> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
>> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
>>
>> Jill
>>
> Why not repair it. I repaired my wifes, just like Doug said, I ripped it
> down the joint, then jointed.
>
> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and
> gluing.
If he has a good tablesaw or circular saw blade, he shouldn't need to
joint the edges.
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
Lew Hodgett wrote:
---------------------------------------------------------
> Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?
>
> Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.
>
> They fill without reducing strength.
---------------------------------------------------------
isw wrote:
> Not only do they fill, but they also *fill up* -- at least, the ones
> where their tops wear off do, because they are hollow. How do you
> clean
> out the food residue (and resulting live stuff) that then gets in
> there?
--------------------------------------------------------
Those must be some very LARGE balloons you are using.
What did you have in mind?
Might want to consider soap and water.
BTW, what are the particle sizes of the saw dust you suggest using.
Think you might have a real sanitary issue as compared to
micro-balloons.
Lew
"Brooklyn1" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 19:36:03 -0800, sf <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:58:42 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
>wrote:
>
>> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an
>> option.
>> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and
>> gluing.
>
>Get real. No matter how he repairs it, he needs a vise. Most
>ordinary people who don't have "equipment" are lucky to have a hammer
>and a set of screwdrivers.
Most folks can find a piece of rope and a stick, and use a tourniquet
as a clamp... that's how I reglue chairs. Most woodworkers wouldn't
use a bench vise for gluing anyway, they'd much more likely use
parallel clamps rather than tie up the vise for many hours.
===================================================================================
Two boards as fences and wedges work well also.
On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
> isw wrote:
>>
>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>> work that into the cracks.
>
> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> wood filler:
> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>
because wood filler will not work.
it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
and has other downsides.
As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
for advice.
On Monday, December 3, 2012 6:19:20 AM UTC-8, Doug Winterburn wrote:
> On 12/02/2012 04:32 AM, Tim west wrote: > An old favourite wooden choppin=
g board has just come apart at a glued seam. > > I've glued it together usi=
ng white PVA glue, simply because I have some and > I've never heard about =
it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of > the seam which I wa=
nt to fill in for Hygiene reasons. > > What fairly inoffensive and easy to =
use substance might I use for this? I > did think of using a nail varnish w=
hich I guess is just a quick drying > cellulose paint? Any other suggestion=
s please? > > I'd run each edge surface over the jointer until flat, then r=
e-glue with TB3. -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of igno=
rance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of =
misery" -Winston Churchill
Winner!!
Yes, recut the wood so you don't have a gap. Water will infiltrate and brea=
l the joint pretty quickly no matter what you "try"
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> > isw wrote:
> >
> > If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> > that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> > resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
> > and
> > work that into the cracks.
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?
>
> Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.
>
> They fill without reducing strength.
Do they match the color of the wood like dust from the same piece does?
On 12/2/2012 8:17 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
> <timedream95(remoove)@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>>
>> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>>
>> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>>
>
> Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
> coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
> choice.
>
Yep, agreed, epoxy is the best gap filler for this
On 12/3/2012 5:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>>
>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:
>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>>
>>
> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
> for advice.
>
Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
Jill
On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
<timedream95(remoove)@gmail.com> wrote:
>An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued seam.
>
>I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some and
>I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most of
>the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
>
>What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
>did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
>cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
>
Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
choice.
On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:58:42 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
wrote:
> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.
Get real. No matter how he repairs it, he needs a vise. Most
ordinary people who don't have "equipment" are lucky to have a hammer
and a set of screwdrivers.
--
Food is an important part of a balanced diet.
On Mon, 3 Dec 2012 21:30:14 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>"Brooklyn1" wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 19:36:03 -0800, sf <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 17:58:42 -0500, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>> But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an
>>> option.
>>> But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and
>>> gluing.
>>
>>Get real. No matter how he repairs it, he needs a vise. Most
>>ordinary people who don't have "equipment" are lucky to have a hammer
>>and a set of screwdrivers.
>
>Most folks can find a piece of rope and a stick, and use a tourniquet
>as a clamp... that's how I reglue chairs. Most woodworkers wouldn't
>use a bench vise for gluing anyway, they'd much more likely use
>parallel clamps rather than tie up the vise for many hours.
>===================================================================================
>Two boards as fences and wedges work well also.
So does the weight of a cement block. There are many ways to apply
pressure for gluing, with small odd shaped items rubberbands work very
well... spring clothespins work in many instances too. The point is
that serious wood workers don't do any gluing on their workbench or
with their carpenter's bench vise... invariably glue oozes and makes a
difficult to remove mess. I still remember back in JHS woodworking
class one wise ass glued all the wood jawed bench vises shut.
In article <[email protected]>,
Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 20:29:33 -0800, isw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >In article <[email protected]>,
> > Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> >
> >> isw wrote:
> >> >
> >> >If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> >> >that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> >> >resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
> >> >work that into the cracks.
> >>
> >> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> >> wood filler:
> >
> >Because I've used both, and I know which one is both easier and more
> >durable.
>
> Yeah, all those huge corporations make wood filler by the freight
> train car loads as a joke... and all you can do is flap your lying
> gums... next you're at the big box hardware stores check out the wood
> filler, from two ounce tubes to five gallon buckets... professional
> cabinet making shops buy those buckets by the pallet, and naturally
> they have money and labor to waste, according you idiots like you.
> Plastic Wood and other commercial wood fillers IS sawdust with epoxy,
> dummy!
A few of them use a polyester material (very characteristic smell -- not
like epoxy), and you can recognize them because they come with a
catalyst you have to mix in. Most wood fillers just use a solvent-based
glue (another very characteristic odor), and don't adhere as well to
wood as epoxies do, plus, they shrink as the solvent evaporates.
Isaac
In article <[email protected]>,
tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> On 12/2/2012 8:17 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> > On Sun, 2 Dec 2012 11:32:29 -0000, "Tim west"
> > <timedream95(remoove)@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> An old favourite wooden chopping board has just come apart at a glued
> >> seam.
> >>
> >> I've glued it together using white PVA glue, simply because I have some
> >> and
> >> I've never heard about it being toxic. There is still a small gap on most
> >> of
> >> the seam which I want to fill in for Hygiene reasons.
> >>
> >> What fairly inoffensive and easy to use substance might I use for this? I
> >> did think of using a nail varnish which I guess is just a quick drying
> >> cellulose paint? Any other suggestions please?
> >>
> >
> > Nail varnish may work, but it has little solids and could take many
> > coats, depending on the size of the crack. I'd make epoxy my first
> > choice.
> >
> Yep, agreed, epoxy is the best gap filler for this
If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
work that into the cracks.
Isaac
In article <[email protected]>,
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > isw wrote:
> >
> > If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> > that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> > resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
> > and
> > work that into the cracks.
> ---------------------------------------------------------
> Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?
>
> Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.
>
> They fill without reducing strength.
Not only do they fill, but they also *fill up* -- at least, the ones
where their tops wear off do, because they are hollow. How do you clean
out the food residue (and resulting live stuff) that then gets in there?
Isaac
In article <[email protected]>,
Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
> isw wrote:
> >
> >If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
> >that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
> >resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
> >work that into the cracks.
>
> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> wood filler:
Because I've used both, and I know which one is both easier and more
durable.
Isaac
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "jmcquown" wrote:
>
>> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
>> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
> ----------------------------------------------
> That's just to simple and low cost.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
My mother is still using the Mahogany and Maple one I made in the late
70's. I think it's a full inch thick. She doesn't even remember or care
that I made it, but I enjoy seeing it still in use when I visit.
Brooklyn1 wrote:
> isw wrote:
>>
>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
>> and work that into the cracks.
>
> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> wood filler:
> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
Because that stuff is just junk.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
isw wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> isw wrote:
>>>
>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste,
>>> and
>>> work that into the cracks.
>> ---------------------------------------------------------
>> Why waste good epoxy by using garbage fillers?
>>
>> Micro-balloons are the low cost filler of choice.
>>
>> They fill without reducing strength.
>
> Not only do they fill, but they also *fill up* -- at least, the ones
> where their tops wear off do, because they are hollow. How do you
> clean out the food residue (and resulting live stuff) that then gets
> in there?
>
Soap and water.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
tiredofspam wrote:
> >> Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and work that into the cracks.
> > Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
> > wood filler:
> > http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
> > http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
> because wood filler will not work.
> it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
> and has other downsides.
Quite right. Epoxy is the obvious choice -- just give it time to cure.
If, for some reason, you can't find epoxy, go in search of a
polyurethane resin. It's an industrial product and its fumes will kill
your children and pets.
On 12/3/2012 5:44 PM, jmcquown wrote:
> On 12/3/2012 5:04 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
>> On 12/3/2012 4:43 PM, Brooklyn1 wrote:
>>> isw wrote:
>>>>
>>>> If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>>>> that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>>>> resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>>>> work that into the cracks.
>>>
>>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>>> wood filler:
>>> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>>> http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> As far as rejointing it, we don't know if this person even has the
>> equipment to do that. I think this was someone outside the group asking
>> for advice.
>>
>
> Why not just buy a new cutting board? I don't see any reason or
> sentimentality to become overly attached to one.
>
> Jill
>
Why not repair it. I repaired my wifes, just like Doug said, I ripped it
down the joint, then jointed.
But if this guy has no equipment then re-gluing then filling is an option.
But if he has equipment, then the best fix is ripping , jointing and gluing.
On Mon, 03 Dec 2012 20:29:33 -0800, isw <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> Brooklyn1 <Gravesend1> wrote:
>
>> isw wrote:
>> >
>> >If you have some way to make a lot of sawdust (power sander) then do
>> >that, using the cutting board as a source -- it probably could use a
>> >resurfacing anyhow. Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and
>> >work that into the cracks.
>>
>> Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> wood filler:
>
>Because I've used both, and I know which one is both easier and more
>durable.
Yeah, all those huge corporations make wood filler by the freight
train car loads as a joke... and all you can do is flap your lying
gums... next you're at the big box hardware stores check out the wood
filler, from two ounce tubes to five gallon buckets... professional
cabinet making shops buy those buckets by the pallet, and naturally
they have money and labor to waste, according you idiots like you.
Plastic Wood and other commercial wood fillers IS sawdust with epoxy,
dummy!
On Thu, 06 Dec 2012 13:20:34 -0500, George M. Middius
<[email protected]> wrote:
>tiredofspam wrote:
>
>> >> Mix the dust with epoxy to make a thick paste, and work that into the cracks.
>
>> > Why micky mouse around when for a couple three dollars you can buy
>> > wood filler:
>> > http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69
>> > http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler?WT.srch=1&gclid=CJeD7aSZ_7MCFedxOgod1w4AIg
>
>> because wood filler will not work.
>> it shrinks, does not stick as well as epoxy...
>> and has other downsides.
>
>Quite right. Epoxy is the obvious choice -- just give it time to cure.
>If, for some reason, you can't find epoxy, go in search of a
>polyurethane resin. It's an industrial product and its fumes will kill
>your children and pets.
Making ones own wood filler is a waste of time and effort. The only
reason commercial wood fillers fail is because people do not properly
prepare the surface... home made will fail as well. Using wood filler
is is like welding metal, if the surfaces are properly prepped and the
rest of the directions are followed the joint becomes the strongest
part. People who say commercial wood filler fails it's only because
they don't know what they are doing, most likely illiterates who can't
read the directions. Making ones own wood filler when commercial wood
fillers are readily available is tantamount to making ones own house
paint.