In article <[email protected]>, Roy Smith
<[email protected]> wrote:
> "R. Pierce Butler" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Lee Valley has two 4" sawtooth forstner bits. One is $27.00 and the other
> > is $40.00
> >
> > http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42245&cat=1,180,42240
>
> They've also got a 4" hole saw:
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32276&cat=1,180,42316
>
> for $22 ($34 if you don't already have the mandril). So, the question is,
> given these prices, is there any reason you would want the hole saw in
> preference to the saw-tooth bit? I would think the bit would be superior
> in just about every way; stronger, heavier so less heat buildup, less
> likely to bind in a deep hole. Is there any task the hole saw would be
> better at?
I wouldn't want to use a 4" bit in a hand held drill if I wanted a
precise hole.
I'd use a saw to rough out the hole, then a router with a guide bushing
and template.
In article <[email protected]>, CW
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I'd use the router for the whole job. Save making the template.
Good point.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
> > desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
> As others have mentioned, a 4" hole saw will do the job and if you go
> at it the right way, can give you a reasonably clean cut.
>
> A word of WARNING.
>
> Let me repeat that:
>
> W A R N I N G
>
> Don't attempt to use a 4" hole saw with anything but a right angle drill.
>
> Get a 1/2", 2 speed (low speed about 200 RPM) right angle drill.
>
> Try some practice cuts.
>
> That way when the saw grabs the material you're trying to cut, and it
> will, you will learn how to react to it without hurting yourself.
>
> Trying to use a straight drill with that large a hole saw is a recipe
> for disaster.
>
> You can hurt yourself, especially your wrists and hands.
>
> Lew
Use a plunge router with a home made circle jig and a top bearing
router bit is one way. Another way would be: Cutting a smaller
hole...let's say you have a two inch drill bit....drill the
hole....chase with 1/2" rabbet bit....chase with top bearing bit
removing the rabbet ledge....then chase with rabbet bit and....till you
get the diameter you need....Hope this is clear...any questions just
let me know.
Good luck:
Mike from American Syacmore
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi.
>
> Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
> desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32276&cat=1,180,42316&ap=1
[email protected] wrote:
> Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
> desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
As others have mentioned, a 4" hole saw will do the job and if you go
at it the right way, can give you a reasonably clean cut.
A word of WARNING.
Let me repeat that:
W A R N I N G
Don't attempt to use a 4" hole saw with anything but a right angle drill.
Get a 1/2", 2 speed (low speed about 200 RPM) right angle drill.
Try some practice cuts.
That way when the saw grabs the material you're trying to cut, and it
will, you will learn how to react to it without hurting yourself.
Trying to use a straight drill with that large a hole saw is a recipe
for disaster.
You can hurt yourself, especially your wrists and hands.
Lew
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Hi.
>
> Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
> desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
You could use a 4" Forstner, but there're a couple of problems: (1) a
Forstner that size is going to run upwards of $200, maybe closer to
$300; and (2) I wouldn't want to be on the end of a hand drill trying to
hold on if one of those suckers got stuck. (I assume here that you're
going to have to use a hand drill rather than be able to position the
cut for a drill press.)
Another solution is to use a 4" hole saw. It won't make as clean a cut
as a Forstner but it's a BUNCH cheaper, but it can wrestle you around if
you're not careful. If you drill a pilot hole and carefully and
squarely begin the cut (LIGHTLY) you oughta be able to pull it off OK --
maybe practice a couple of times on scrap.
R. Pierce Butler wrote:
>> I wouldn't want to use a 4" bit in a hand held drill if I wanted a
>> precise hole.
>>
>> I'd use a saw to rough out the hole, then a router with a guide bushing
>> and template.
>
> I used a 3" bit in a hand held drill and the holes were quite accutate. I
> think I will post a picture of what I was drilling.
>
I used upto a 6" hole saw for such things, clamp a sheet of metal top
and bottom to help guide (pilot the top one) and support edges, worked a
treat everytime.
Tex <tex@my_isp.net> wrote in news:K%_pg.78720$4L1.72021
@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> [email protected] says...
>> Hi.
>>
>> Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
>> desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
> You could use a 4" Forstner, but there're a couple of problems: (1) a
> Forstner that size is going to run upwards of $200, maybe closer to
> $300; and (2) I wouldn't want to be on the end of a hand drill trying to
> hold on if one of those suckers got stuck. (I assume here that you're
> going to have to use a hand drill rather than be able to position the
> cut for a drill press.)
>
> Another solution is to use a 4" hole saw. It won't make as clean a cut
> as a Forstner but it's a BUNCH cheaper, but it can wrestle you around if
> you're not careful. If you drill a pilot hole and carefully and
> squarely begin the cut (LIGHTLY) you oughta be able to pull it off OK --
> maybe practice a couple of times on scrap.
>
Lee Valley has two 4" sawtooth forstner bits. One is $27.00 and the other
is $40.00
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42245&cat=1,180,42240
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote in news:8A%pg.1983$cd3.1262
@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
> > desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
> As others have mentioned, a 4" hole saw will do the job and if you go
> at it the right way, can give you a reasonably clean cut.
>
> A word of WARNING.
>
> Let me repeat that:
>
> W A R N I N G
>
> Don't attempt to use a 4" hole saw with anything but a right angle drill.
>
> Get a 1/2", 2 speed (low speed about 200 RPM) right angle drill.
>
> Try some practice cuts.
>
> That way when the saw grabs the material you're trying to cut, and it
> will, you will learn how to react to it without hurting yourself.
>
> Trying to use a straight drill with that large a hole saw is a recipe
> for disaster.
>
> You can hurt yourself, especially your wrists and hands.
>
> Lew
>
I cut fifty 3" holes in 3/4" venerred MDF using a straight 1/2" drill. It
never grabbed. Then I cut thirty 2 1/2" holes in 1/2' MDF without issue.
I think it is all in how you approach the issue.
"badger.badger" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> R. Pierce Butler wrote:
>
>>> I wouldn't want to use a 4" bit in a hand held drill if I wanted a
>>> precise hole.
>>>
>>> I'd use a saw to rough out the hole, then a router with a guide
>>> bushing and template.
>>
>> I used a 3" bit in a hand held drill and the holes were quite accutate.
>> I think I will post a picture of what I was drilling.
>>
>
> I used upto a 6" hole saw for such things, clamp a sheet of metal top
> and bottom to help guide (pilot the top one) and support edges, worked a
> treat everytime.
>
I cut mine without such things. I do have to admit that the bit from Lee
Valley was excellent. Slised thru that venerred MDF like a rotary plane.
It sliced the veneer so cleanly I was amazed. I expected the veneer to
break and chip. It did neither. There was some breakage of the veneer on
the exit side wut without a drill press it is to be expected. I am not
sure about running a 4" bit in a hand drill as I have not tried it. 3" was
so easy that I expect that the 4" would be no issue.
Dave Balderstone <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote in
news:030720061750384512%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca:
> In article <[email protected]>, Roy Smith
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> "R. Pierce Butler" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > Lee Valley has two 4" sawtooth forstner bits. One is $27.00 and the
>> > other is $40.00
>> >
>> > http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42245&cat=1,180,42240
>>
>> They've also got a 4" hole saw:
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32276&cat=1,180,42316
>>
>> for $22 ($34 if you don't already have the mandril). So, the question
>> is, given these prices, is there any reason you would want the hole saw
>> in preference to the saw-tooth bit? I would think the bit would be
>> superior in just about every way; stronger, heavier so less heat
>> buildup, less likely to bind in a deep hole. Is there any task the
>> hole saw would be better at?
>
> I wouldn't want to use a 4" bit in a hand held drill if I wanted a
> precise hole.
>
> I'd use a saw to rough out the hole, then a router with a guide bushing
> and template.
I used a 3" bit in a hand held drill and the holes were quite accutate. I
think I will post a picture of what I was drilling.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi.
>
> Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
> desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
drill 4 1" holes
On 2 Jul 2006 18:52:33 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Hi.
>
>Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
>desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
>Thanks.
That's a pretty big hole. What's it for? Is there some chance that a
smaller, less unsightly hole might do the trick? Maybe two 1" holes a
few inches apart, joined with a sabre saw to make an oval?
Several companies sell plastic trim that dresses up wire holes. They
come in various sizes and shapes.
Greg Guarino
Now that everyone has told you about the dangers of a drill (I agree
completely. Can be done but ...), I would do it with a router. Use a circle
cutting attachment (easily made) and a half inch bit, Cut through in small
bites. Double sided tape a board across the bottom before cutting so the
middle won't flop around when free. Smooth cut and quite safe.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi.
>
> Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
> desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
> Thanks.
>
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi.
>>
>> Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
>> desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32276&cat=1,180,42316&ap=1
>
You better have one helluva drill for that 4" hole saw!
Here's a ready made opportunity for the infamous Roto-Zip with it's circle
cutter attachment.
--
Nahmie
The only road to success is always under construction.
"Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:030720061750384512%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderstone.ca...
>
> I wouldn't want to use a 4" bit in a hand held drill if I wanted a
> precise hole.
Agreed
>
> I'd use a saw to rough out the hole, then a router with a guide bushing
> and template.
I'd use the router for the whole job. Save making the template.
On 2 Jul 2006 18:52:33 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
>desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
How good does the hole have to be? Is it buried in the back behind the
monitor? Is it going to be trimmed out with an escutcheon plate? If
either of those is the case, I say just cut it with a jig...oops,
saber saw and be done with it. One of the modern saws (particularly
the Bosch), when handled carefully with a straight (as opposed to
oscillating) cut and a fine tooth blade should be able to render a
hole as nice as you can follow a line. Plenty good enough if one of
the above conditions applies.
If it needs to be purty, use a well crafted template and a router.
--
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997
email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.
You've already got several good suggestions. Here's how I'd do it if I wanted a good looking edge.
1. Using fly cutter, make a 4 inch diameter hole in a piece of 1/4 hardboard to make a pattern.
2. Trace hole where you want it on the wood using said pattern
3 Drill a starter hole and cut out the circle INSIDE the line using a saber saw (I'm working on my
geezerhood - a good jig saw can't be held in one hand, but a saber saw can.)
4. Align hardboard pattern back over traced line and hold it in place using double sided tape.
5. Use flush trim bit in router with the hardboard as a pattern to smooth up the cut edges. Maybe
come back with a round-over or chamfer bit to take the sharp edge off the top of the hole.
YMMV, especially if you don't have much experience climb cutting with a router, or leave the amount
of wood to clean up too thick. DAMHIKT.
Regards,
Roy
On 2 Jul 2006 18:52:33 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Hi.
>
>Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
>desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
>Thanks.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
> Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
> desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
From practical experience, and if you have a drill press, the adjustable
circle/wheel cutter that Greg D mentions cuts a very clean, furniture
quality hole.
I used a similar one to cut the many holes you see in this plan rack:
http://www.e-woodshop.net/Projects9.htm
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 6/21/06
On 2 Jul 2006 18:52:33 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Hi.
>
>Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
>desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
>Thanks.
A circle cutter, hole saw, or router fitted with a circle cutter jig.
The circle cutter requires a drill press running at slow speed. If
you are using a circle cutter or hole saw, drill just until the center
bit pokes through, flip the desktop, and drill from the other side to
prevent splintering.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32275&cat=1,180,42316&ap=1
On 2 Jul 2006 18:52:33 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Hi.
>
>Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
>desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
>Thanks.
"R. Pierce Butler" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Lee Valley has two 4" sawtooth forstner bits. One is $27.00 and the other
> is $40.00
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42245&cat=1,180,42240
They've also got a 4" hole saw:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32276&cat=1,180,42316
for $22 ($34 if you don't already have the mandril). So, the question is,
given these prices, is there any reason you would want the hole saw in
preference to the saw-tooth bit? I would think the bit would be superior
in just about every way; stronger, heavier so less heat buildup, less
likely to bind in a deep hole. Is there any task the hole saw would be
better at?
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi.
>
>Any recommendations on how to drill a 4" hole in a 1" thick wood
>desktop? I havent been able to find any 4" drill bits out there.
>
>Thanks.
>
I would use a holesaw, though they are not known for leaving a fine
finish. If I was feeling particularly manly, I have an old Irwin
expansive bit and brace I could use also.
Perhaps another viable alternative would be to use a jigsaw and cut
the hole.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]