SystiMatic or Forest?

Tight setup on your fence to miter slot to blade alignment is critical
for the best cuts with either blade. My Jet CS took a set of PALS to
get it to settle down and stay put. Well worth the $20.00, but you
could make them for under $10 if you have more time than money.

A local saw shop to me who sells Systimatic shares your other posters
feelings that they are an outstanding blade. I can vouch for the WWII
I have on my saw as being awesome. With exotic hardwoods they are
polished after a cross cut.

Most of the time I am cutting baltic birch veneer, if I raise the blade
to put the bottom of the gullets just at the top of the board, I get
extremely little tearout of the top layer. With a piece of painters
tape I have even cut particle board laminate with no tear out
consistantly.

The ATB are important to plywood, but I toy with a flat top grind
because I always use my TS for 1/4 or 1/8 slots vs setting up the
router. With the ATB you can never quite get it flat.

Alan

Copied from an earlier post

The SystiMatic 37102 50T blade cuts every bit as smooth as my WWII.
Both blades are very sharp, hold up well and have sufficient carbide to
allow for several sharpenings. In fact the SystiMatic has less runout on
the plate than the Forrest. (SM 0.001 - FWW 0.0015) However, both blades
produce identical finishes when ripping, the SM produces a slightly better
finish when cross cutting hardwoods.

IMHO (well not really so humble!) both blades are of equal quality.

Dave

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<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My old Amana needs replacing or a pal in the blade drawer, so I'm
> looking to buy a new 10" blade for my TS, and have never owned either
> one of these blades, but I've read volumes of praise on the Forest
> line. (snip) but I keep hearing about how
> smooth the cut is on a Forest WWII and I'm wondering if its worth the
> extra bucks. (more snippage).
>
>
> Mike

When I first installed my WWII, I was amazed how quiet the blade was.
Crosscuts AND rips were glassy smooth. BTW www.forrestblades.com has the
WWII on sale for $89.00. (usual disclaimer..not affiliated, etc. I also
have never bought from there.)

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My old Amana needs replacing or a pal in the blade drawer, so I'm
> looking to buy a new 10" blade for my TS, and have never owned either
> one of these blades, but I've read volumes of praise on the Forest
> line. Most of my work is with birch or sometimes oak plywood and
> solids run from maple to beech to oak when that's part of the project.
> I rarely cut anything thicker than 2", but I keep hearing about how
> smooth the cut is on a Forest WWII and I'm wondering if its worth the
> extra bucks. My FIL was a professional furniture manufacturer in
> North Jersey and he used to have his SystiMatics sharpened at Forest
> over in Clifton... so his vote is obvious.
>
> Also wondering if tooth wise, is a 10/50T a better choice (considering
> my normal use) than a 10/40T?

PROVIDING your saw is set up properly and to tight specs, the WWII will give
you superior results. I owned and used a 50 tooth Systematic Combo reg kerf
blade for about 12 years and thought it was great. I replaced it with the
Forrest WWII when I graduated up to a cabinet saw. I recommend the WWII 40
tooth regular kerf for the type cutting you will be doing although it does a
pretty good job cutting thicker material also. I also recommend that you
let Forrest do the maintenance on it.