Yes, Rigid power tools are a good value at that price point. In fact, if I
was going to spend $550 or so on a tablesaw, I'd buy a Rigid... They appear
to be solidly built and do well(in particular "best value" type ratings) in
many tool comparisons.
KB
"roger garber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> are rigid table saws any good. keep in mind i just use this for making
> furniture around the house. i am not looking to spend a fortune on a saw
>
>
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 17:55:16 GMT, "roger garber" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>are rigid table saws any good. keep in mind i just use this for making
>furniture around the house. i am not looking to spend a fortune on a saw
I had a Rigid 6" jointer that I liked a lot. It was a good value,
perfectly behaved, and easy to obtain. Another 'wrecker bought it,
and AFAIK, is happy with it.
The saws I've seen at the BORG looked like good values. You should
make sure whatever saw you buy has standard 3/8" x 3/4" miter slots,
belt drive (not direct), and ways to adjust the blade to table and
fence alignments.
Barry
In article <iLbod.121736$bk1.95906@fed1read05>, AAvK <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> > Direct drive is cheaper, lighter, has fewer parts, and is usually found on
>> > lower power and cheaper saws. Belt drive table saws usually have much less
>> > vibration than direct drive. They also have somewhat higher torque. They
>> > are also interchangible so if you fry a motor you can swap it without
>> > worrying about whether the saw manufacturer still has yours. And you can
>> > swap for a higher hp motor (within reason) if you need more power.
>>
>> And the direct drive generally use a universal motor, and they are much
>> noiser than the induction motors found on belt drive units.
>> Darrell
>>
>>
>Now both you guys make sense, all seems logical, and thanks for the info.
>I am / was considering buying a small benchtop saw like the little Ryobi.
>I also do not like the aluminum table and miter gauge, light weight and
>cheap quality, rickety. It is nothing compared to steel or cast iron.
Ryobi _does_ make a good tablesaw, the BT3100 (and it's predecessor the 3000).
It is *THE* exception in their tablesaw line.
And boy, is it! Real difficult to touch it until you get up around twice
the price, or more.
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 16:03:24 -0800, "AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Barry may I ask, what is wrong with direct drive compared to belt drive?
>
>Alex
What the others said... <G>
Barry
> I had a Rigid 6" jointer that I liked a lot. It was a good value,
> perfectly behaved, and easy to obtain. Another 'wrecker bought it,
> and AFAIK, is happy with it.
> The saws I've seen at the BORG looked like good values. You should
> make sure whatever saw you buy has standard 3/8" x 3/4" miter slots,
> belt drive (not direct), and ways to adjust the blade to table and
> fence alignments.
>
>
Barry may I ask, what is wrong with direct drive compared to belt drive?
Alex
From what I have seen the Ridgid brand seems very good. I am saying they are
worth it but the reviews have been very favorable from friends that have
bought their tools. I am considering their Random Orbit Sander which is made
by Metabo.
The only problem is that I hear they are getting out of the woodworking tool
business.
max
> are rigid table saws any good. keep in mind i just use this for making
> furniture around the house. i am not looking to spend a fortune on a saw
>
>
On 2004/11/23 5:39 PM, "Norman D. Crow" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Was in Home Despot the other night, got what I needed, but then was just
> taking the usual gander through the Tool Dept. There had been some recent
> talk on here about a Griz extension block fitting the Rigid band saw, so I
> was just taking a look . . . . Well, the top frame does look very similar to
> my G0555, so maybe. What tickled me though, is that whoever put the display
> model together apparently didn't read all the instructions. The blade guard
> between the top & bottom wheels, where the blade goes "up", was on
> backwards! They put the blade on first, then put the blade guard on OVER it,
> so you would have to remove the guard to change the blade. DUH!
I have the Ridgid BS1400 bandsaw from HD and that seems to be the correct
assembly. In fact, mine arrived with the blade installed and that cover
already in place as you described. The instructions for changing the blade
include a step for removing the rear blade guard. While you may disagree
with the design, it is not the fault of someone at the HD store putting it
together wrong.
BTW, the brand name is Ridgid, not Rigid.
> I've got the big Rigid table saw you see at H.D. Nice saw, suits me well
> for all me uses thus-far. I got lured in with a lifetime warranty which was
> offerred by H.D. a year ago. The Rigid is solid, quiet, and to easy move
> with the mobil lift included.
> Today if I were looking, I'd still consider the Rigid, but also entertain
> other opinions such Grizzly for example. But I have no regrets on my
> purchase.
I examined one at HD a couple days ago, it is nice with that iron table and
mobile lift, the cranks turn easy, nice price for all that. But ripping 8/4
maple will still be one serious slow hot bitch I bet. I just ripped 32 b/f of
it two weeks ago on a large and powerful 12" saw (adult ed.), it was all
that. 3 cuts to rip off one board, saw blade going "up" 1/3 at a time. Do
you have a dust bag attached underneath?
Alex
I've got the big Rigid table saw you see at H.D. Nice saw, suits me well
for all me uses thus-far. I got lured in with a lifetime warranty which was
offerred by H.D. a year ago. The Rigid is solid, quiet, and to easy move
with the mobil lift included.
Today if I were looking, I'd still consider the Rigid, but also entertain
other opinions such Grizzly for example. But I have no regrets on my
purchase.
Dave
"roger garber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> are rigid table saws any good. keep in mind i just use this for making
> furniture around the house. i am not looking to spend a fortune on a saw
>
>
I am happy enough with mine. I bought it a year ago and it is enough saw
for most work. I needed one, it was a great deal with some HD discounts
that I had, and I got it under the lifetime warrenty deal that they were
running. I like the 36" rip capacity, the Herculift works well, the
table and cast iron wings are flat, and it is as vibe free as any
contractor saw.
That being said, if I had to do over I would buy Jet or Grizzly for my
contractor saw. The Jet is $200 more with iron wings, the Grizzly, a few
bucks less with a 2hp motor.
Ridgid is a pain when it comes to parts, customer service for HD and
Ridgid is awful. The arbor is a bit short and will not accommodate some
dado set ups, it has a 2.5" dust port (I would like a 4", ideally),
second source accessories are not as available as they are for Jet,
Delta, etc. The trunions seem to be holding up, but they are made of
some kind of alloy that is much lighter than I am used to and I worry
about whether they will hold up for the next decade or two. The fence is
fine, but is also pretty light and I wonder if it will still be working
well in years to come.
All in all, I am happy enough with it to keep it and, as I said, it was
a deal, but would I make a different decision today, I think.
Kyle Boatright wrote:
> Yes, Rigid power tools are a good value at that price point. In fact, if I
> was going to spend $550 or so on a tablesaw, I'd buy a Rigid... They appear
> to be solidly built and do well(in particular "best value" type ratings) in
> many tool comparisons.
>
> KB
>
> "roger garber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>are rigid table saws any good. keep in mind i just use this for making
>>furniture around the house. i am not looking to spend a fortune on a saw
>>
>>
>
>
>
> 8X4 maple on it is an unknown for me.
Call it "eight-quarter" stock, thicknesses in quarters of an inch. Usually planed
down 1/8" of each side to 1-3/4", still sold as 8/4 in price (I bet you knew that!).
I dare you to put the saw to that test, saw blade 1/3 up through the stock per pass
'til complete rip, without burning the wood or the motor. With the monster I was
using, I still got burn (darkness) patches.
> I use a shopvac connected to the exhaust port, which seems to work fine. I
> expect mess from a table saw, and if I can keep it down, I'm happy. The
> shopvac is a blower vac, and the table saw has it's rear at the garage door.
> Simple matter to donate organic matter to the driveway/lawn afterwards. I
> going to order a band saw soon, so ripping thicker stock (once in a blue
> moon anyway) with likely shift to that.
>
>
I like the bag idea because of the noise factor, too much is a screaming to me.
Alex
"tzipple" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Direct drive is cheaper, lighter, has fewer parts, and is usually found on
> lower power and cheaper saws. Belt drive table saws usually have much less
> vibration than direct drive. They also have somewhat higher torque. They
> are also interchangible so if you fry a motor you can swap it without
> worrying about whether the saw manufacturer still has yours. And you can
> swap for a higher hp motor (within reason) if you need more power.
And the direct drive generally use a universal motor, and they are much
noiser than the induction motors found on belt drive units.
Darrell
roger garber wrote:
> are rigid table saws any good. keep in mind i just use this for making
> furniture around the house. i am not looking to spend a fortune on a saw
I've got one that I'm happy with. I've jazzed it up quite a bit: Incra 5000
sliding table, added a router wing with a Mast-R-Lift, an overhead guard / dust
collector, zero clearance insert with Micro Jig splitter, and I built an outfeed
table for it.
It's been my experience those that don't like Ridgid (note the spelling) haven't
used one. Are there nicer saws? Of course, and you'll pay for the privilege.
--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
[email protected]
"Cox West" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:iyGod.340257$a85.317335@fed1read04...
> 8X4 maple on it is an unknown for me.
<snippage>
Was in Home Despot the other night, got what I needed, but then was just
taking the usual gander through the Tool Dept. There had been some recent
talk on here about a Griz extension block fitting the Rigid band saw, so I
was just taking a look . . . . Well, the top frame does look very similar to
my G0555, so maybe. What tickled me though, is that whoever put the display
model together apparently didn't read all the instructions. The blade guard
between the top & bottom wheels, where the blade goes "up", was on
backwards! They put the blade on first, then put the blade guard on OVER it,
so you would have to remove the guard to change the blade. DUH!
--
Nahmie
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.
"Bob Haar" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:BDCA54F5.159B33%[email protected]...
> On 2004/11/23 5:39 PM, "Norman D. Crow" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> > Was in Home Despot the other night, got what I needed, but then was just
> > taking the usual gander through the Tool Dept. There had been some
recent
> > talk on here about a Griz extension block fitting the Rigid band saw, so
I
> > was just taking a look . . . . Well, the top frame does look very
similar to
> > my G0555, so maybe. What tickled me though, is that whoever put the
display
> > model together apparently didn't read all the instructions. The blade
guard
> > between the top & bottom wheels, where the blade goes "up", was on
> > backwards! They put the blade on first, then put the blade guard on OVER
it,
> > so you would have to remove the guard to change the blade. DUH!
>
> I have the Ridgid BS1400 bandsaw from HD and that seems to be the correct
> assembly. In fact, mine arrived with the blade installed and that cover
> already in place as you described. The instructions for changing the blade
> include a step for removing the rear blade guard. While you may disagree
> with the design, it is not the fault of someone at the HD store putting it
> together wrong.
>
> BTW, the brand name is Ridgid, not Rigid.
>
I knew that, just stayed with "Rigid" to follow the OP.
Seems like an unnecessary step. I'm going to go back & check my G0555, but
seems it came with the open side out on the *back* blade guard. I know
that's the way the directions said to install the new guard when adding the
riser kit. The guard is deep enough to prevent accidentally touching the
blade under normal circumstances, and if the blade was in danger of coming
out of the guard, then there's *other* problems to worry about.
--
Nahmie
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.
In article <[email protected]>, "roger garber"
<[email protected]> wrote:
I have the Rigid table saw and am very happy with it. The saw went
together and everything was accurately positioned without fuss. The
fence is solid and accurate. As with any saw, you need to add a couple
things. Get a couple table inserts. Construct a sled for crosscut
work.
Dick
> are rigid table saws any good. keep in mind i just use this for making
> furniture around the house. i am not looking to spend a fortune on a saw
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
"Darrell Dorsey" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "tzipple" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Direct drive is cheaper, lighter, has fewer parts, and is usually found on
> > lower power and cheaper saws. Belt drive table saws usually have much less
> > vibration than direct drive. They also have somewhat higher torque. They
> > are also interchangible so if you fry a motor you can swap it without
> > worrying about whether the saw manufacturer still has yours. And you can
> > swap for a higher hp motor (within reason) if you need more power.
>
> And the direct drive generally use a universal motor, and they are much
> noiser than the induction motors found on belt drive units.
> Darrell
>
>
Not to mention, (and I said NOT to mention it), that the diameter of a
belt-drive arbour is smaller and henceforth allows the blade to be
elevated higher than a direct drive motor which will bump its little
housing against the bottom of the tabletop far sooner.
> > Direct drive is cheaper, lighter, has fewer parts, and is usually found on
> > lower power and cheaper saws. Belt drive table saws usually have much less
> > vibration than direct drive. They also have somewhat higher torque. They
> > are also interchangible so if you fry a motor you can swap it without
> > worrying about whether the saw manufacturer still has yours. And you can
> > swap for a higher hp motor (within reason) if you need more power.
>
> And the direct drive generally use a universal motor, and they are much
> noiser than the induction motors found on belt drive units.
> Darrell
>
>
Now both you guys make sense, all seems logical, and thanks for the info.
I am / was considering buying a small benchtop saw like the little Ryobi.
I also do not like the aluminum table and miter gauge, light weight and
cheap quality, rickety. It is nothing compared to steel or cast iron.
Alex
8X4 maple on it is an unknown for me.
I use a shopvac connected to the exhaust port, which seems to work fine. I
expect mess from a table saw, and if I can keep it down, I'm happy. The
shopvac is a blower vac, and the table saw has it's rear at the garage door.
Simple matter to donate organic matter to the driveway/lawn afterwards. I
going to order a band saw soon, so ripping thicker stock (once in a blue
moon anyway) with likely shift to that.
Dave
"AAvK" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:IAwod.131659$bk1.104537@fed1read05...
>
>> I've got the big Rigid table saw you see at H.D. Nice saw, suits me well
>> for all me uses thus-far. I got lured in with a lifetime warranty which
>> was
>> offerred by H.D. a year ago. The Rigid is solid, quiet, and to easy move
>> with the mobil lift included.
>> Today if I were looking, I'd still consider the Rigid, but also entertain
>> other opinions such Grizzly for example. But I have no regrets on my
>> purchase.
>
>
> I examined one at HD a couple days ago, it is nice with that iron table
> and
> mobile lift, the cranks turn easy, nice price for all that. But ripping
> 8/4
> maple will still be one serious slow hot bitch I bet. I just ripped 32 b/f
> of
> it two weeks ago on a large and powerful 12" saw (adult ed.), it was all
> that. 3 cuts to rip off one board, saw blade going "up" 1/3 at a time. Do
> you have a dust bag attached underneath?
>
> Alex
>
>
Direct drive is cheaper, lighter, has fewer parts, and is usually found
on lower power and cheaper saws. Belt drive table saws usually have much
less vibration than direct drive. They also have somewhat higher torque.
They are also interchangible so if you fry a motor you can swap it
without worrying about whether the saw manufacturer still has yours. And
you can swap for a higher hp motor (within reason) if you need more power.
AAvK wrote:
>>I had a Rigid 6" jointer that I liked a lot. It was a good value,
>>perfectly behaved, and easy to obtain. Another 'wrecker bought it,
>>and AFAIK, is happy with it.
>>The saws I've seen at the BORG looked like good values. You should
>>make sure whatever saw you buy has standard 3/8" x 3/4" miter slots,
>>belt drive (not direct), and ways to adjust the blade to table and
>>fence alignments.
>>
>>
>
> Barry may I ask, what is wrong with direct drive compared to belt drive?
>
> Alex
>
>