This might be a really dumb question ..
but ..
lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
blade and the fence ..
historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
it I should be doing it that way.
mike
"Mike_in_SD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This might be a really dumb question ..
>
> but ..
>
> lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
> half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
You don't cut it. A 1 x 12 is only 11 1/2".
"Mike_in_SD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This might be a really dumb question ..
>
> but ..
>
> lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
> half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>
> now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
> blade and the fence ..
>
> historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
> blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
> it I should be doing it that way.
>
>
> mike
>
Is this a board 1" thick x 12" wide by ??? long?
or is this a 3/4" thick x 12" long x 1" wide?
Just a few questions before an accurate answer can be made.
For time sake:
Assumption 1
This board is 1" thick x 12" wide by GT 12" long. AND you want a 11 -1/2"
wide board.
Set the fence at 11-1/2" and rip it.
Assumption 2
3/4" thick x 12" long x 1" wide.
Use a miter saw or a table saw sled.
Dave
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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Personally, I'd just set the fence at 11-1/2" and rip off the extra 1/2".
Or, just a little over 11-1/2" then run the cut edge over the jointer to
give it a cleaner edge (if your TS blade is less than perfect).
--
Regards,
Dean Bielanowski
Editor, OnlineToolReviews.com
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 110+ woodworking product reviews online!
-----------------------------------------------
Latest 6 Reviews:
- PowerTwist Link Belts
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=========================
On Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:50:28 GMT, [email protected] (Mike_in_SD)
wrote:
>
>This might be a really dumb question ..
>
>but ..
>
>lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
>half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>
>now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
>blade and the fence ..
>
>historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
>blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
>it I should be doing it that way.
>
>
>mike
Well, it depends-
If I want a board 11 1/2 inch wide then I set the fence for 11 1/2
inch and make the cut. Of course, the piece that comes off will be
about 3/8 inch as the blade will take 1/8 inch or so.
However, if I wanted multiple 1/2 inch pieces then I would set the
fence for 1/2 inch and let it rip (pun intended).
>"Mike_in_SD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
>> blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
>> it I should be doing it that way.
>
>
>Hi Mike,
>
>Think if it this way, Which is less trouble and easier, to simply set
>the fence to the width you need or to take the width you have, subtract
>the amount that you want to end up with, and then subtract the amount
>that the blade is going to remove and set the fence at that number?
>
Sorry for the confusion .. yes it is a rip cut.
I love the advice of letting the fence do the math, thanks .. that is
so cool and should have been obvious.
My problem has always been .. at the very end of the cut .. as the
board is leaving the area between the fence and blade, the blade will
gouge my piece.
Yes .. I know I am going to (rightfully) get comments of "you have
to insure you push the piece straight thru till it clears the blade."
I just seem to have a problem doing that. Im sure its a newbie thing.
mike
>Mike_in_SD wrote:
>>
>> Yes .. I know I am going to (rightfully) get comments of "you have
>> to insure you push the piece straight thru till it clears the blade."
>> I just seem to have a problem doing that. Im sure its a newbie thing.
>>
>> mike
>
>Ahh - maybe to the real heart of the question. You should be pushing the
>piece not only forward into the blade, but also a little sideways, into
>the fence. This keeps the piece from wandering into the blade, with
>possibly worse consequences than a little gouging. As other have
>mentioned, make sure the blade is parallel to the fence. And you also
>have a splitter (or riving knife) behind that blade, right?
ahh .. actually I didnt have a splitter .. this was on a little
ryobi ts.
the other day, I bought an older delta/rockwell contractor ts and
didnt want to repeat my old mistakes with this saw.
After your suggestion, I did some research on splitters .. and
will definately be adding one to the delta.
I have a thousand questions about restoring my new saw . but .. I will
start a new appropriate thread
thanks for all the replys
mike
On Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:31:12 -0400, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:50:28 GMT, [email protected] (Mike_in_SD)
>> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >This might be a really dumb question ..
>> >
>> >but ..
>> >
>> >lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
>> >half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>> >
>> >now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
>> >blade and the fence ..
>>
>> The piece may get jammed between the blade and the fence. Use a cut
>> off sled that rides in the miter slot or clamp a stand off on the
>> fence. This is an awkward cut for a table saw if the board is
>> long--use a circular saw and clamp a straightedge as a guide. A
>> radial arm saw is probably the best tool if you have one.
>>
>
>I'm curious why you say this. The table saw is ideally suited for this cut.
>I would certainly recommend placing the board between the fence and the
>blade for this cut though. The alternative is more likely to create
>kickback but even that can be mitigated with a simple hold-down and push
>stick. My preference for putting the stock against the fence is that I'm
>pushing against the work piece with no tendency to pinch or to flex along
>the kerf this way, while still able to keep a gentle pressure against the
>fence.
I may have misunderstood the OP in thinking this is a crosscut. If it
is indeed a rip cut, the preferred way it to put the bulk of the wood
between the fence and blade. Kickback becomes an issue with short
boards, either ripping or crosscutting.
Mike_in_SD wrote:
> My problem has always been .. at the very end of the cut .. as the
> board is leaving the area between the fence and blade, the blade
> will gouge my piece.
>
> Yes .. I know I am going to (rightfully) get comments of "you have
> to insure you push the piece straight thru till it clears the
> blade." I just seem to have a problem doing that. Im sure its a
> newbie thing.
Not necessarily, your fence and blade may not be parallel. Are your
cuts rough and/or burned?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Mike_in_SD" wrote in message
>
> This might be a really dumb question ..
Not really, but poorly worded enough as to cause confusion in the answers
you will get.
Is this a rip, or a crosscut?
The assumption appears to be that it is a rip, therefore:
> now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
> blade and the fence ..
In your example _as stated_ in your post, NO!
In that example _as stated_, the piece you want to keep will be narrower
than intended by the width of your saw kerf, you are missing out on the
accuracy and convenience built-into the design of the fence system, and you
unnecessarily introduce a safety issue inherent in ripping narrow stock.
When ripping stock on the table saw, and although there are a few
exceptions, in almost all instances you will be better served by setting the
distance between the fence and the saw blade to the desired dimension of
your workpiece.
That said, then what about ripping narrow stock?
Should you want to rip a 1/2" wide piece off the stated board, then the
answer could be yes (there are other ways to rip narrow stock) ... but be
prepared to take some safety precautions for ripping narrow stock.
Sounds like a good book on table saw use is in order. Kelly Mehler has an
excellent one. DAGS
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/19/06
In article <[email protected]>,
Mike_in_SD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>This might be a really dumb question ..
>
>but ..
>
>lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
>half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>
>now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
>blade and the fence ..
>
>historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
>blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
>it I should be doing it that way.
>
>
>mike
I'm not going to address the question of whether 1/2" is too narrow to
cut next to the fence. That's another discussion. For myself, I have no
problem cutting 1/2" between fence and blade when proper precautions
are taken...
So, to answer your question, if I need a 11 1/2" board I set my fence
to 11 1/2". If I need a 1/2" strip, I set the fence to 1/2"
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:50:28 GMT, [email protected] (Mike_in_SD)
> wrote:
>
> >
> >This might be a really dumb question ..
> >
> >but ..
> >
> >lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
> >half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
> >
> >now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
> >blade and the fence ..
>
> The piece may get jammed between the blade and the fence. Use a cut
> off sled that rides in the miter slot or clamp a stand off on the
> fence. This is an awkward cut for a table saw if the board is
> long--use a circular saw and clamp a straightedge as a guide. A
> radial arm saw is probably the best tool if you have one.
>
I'm curious why you say this. The table saw is ideally suited for this cut.
I would certainly recommend placing the board between the fence and the
blade for this cut though. The alternative is more likely to create
kickback but even that can be mitigated with a simple hold-down and push
stick. My preference for putting the stock against the fence is that I'm
pushing against the work piece with no tendency to pinch or to flex along
the kerf this way, while still able to keep a gentle pressure against the
fence.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Mike_in_SD wrote:
>
> Yes .. I know I am going to (rightfully) get comments of "you have
> to insure you push the piece straight thru till it clears the blade."
> I just seem to have a problem doing that. Im sure its a newbie thing.
>
> mike
Ahh - maybe to the real heart of the question. You should be pushing the piece
not only forward into the blade, but also a little sideways, into the fence.
This keeps the piece from wandering into the blade, with possibly worse
consequences than a little gouging. As other have mentioned, make sure the blade
is parallel to the fence. And you also have a splitter (or riving knife) behind
that blade, right?
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:50:28 GMT, [email protected] (Mike_in_SD)
> wrote:
>
> The piece may get jammed between the blade and the fence. Use a cut
> off sled that rides in the miter slot or clamp a stand off on the
> fence. This is an awkward cut for a table saw if the board is
> long--use a circular saw and clamp a straightedge as a guide. A
> radial arm saw is probably the best tool if you have one.
Ok, you want to rethink your answer. He is describing ripping and using a
fence, not cross cutting using a miter gauge.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Mike_in_SD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> This might be a really dumb question ..
>>
>> but ..
>>
>> lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
>> half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>
>You don't cut it. A 1 x 12 is only 11 1/2".
>
ROTFL! Dang, I hate it when I miss a trick question like that!
Congrats on being the first to get the right answer!
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Simple rule of thumb. The important dimension goes between the blade and
fence.
"Mike_in_SD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This might be a really dumb question ..
>
> but ..
>
> lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
> half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>
> now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
> blade and the fence ..
>
> historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
> blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
> it I should be doing it that way.
>
>
> mike
Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:50:28 GMT, [email protected] (Mike_in_SD)
>wrote:
>
>>
>>This might be a really dumb question ..
>>
>>but ..
>>
>>lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
>>half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>>
>>now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
>>blade and the fence ..
>
>The piece may get jammed between the blade and the fence. Use a cut
>off sled that rides in the miter slot or clamp a stand off on the
>fence. This is an awkward cut for a table saw if the board is
>long--use a circular saw and clamp a straightedge as a guide. A
>radial arm saw is probably the best tool if you have one.
Interesting. I haD read the question as a 1x12 of indeterminate length
that He wanted to rip to 11.5" wide. And I was wondering where in the
heck your advice was coming from! Then I reread the question and
realized that you were probably reading it as a 1" wide and 12" long
board of unstated thickness (presumably less than 1"), in Which case I
agree with your comments.
>>
>>historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
>>blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
>>it I should be doing it that way.
>>
>>
>>mike
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
On Mon, 21 Aug 2006 07:50:28 GMT, [email protected] (Mike_in_SD)
wrote:
>
>This might be a really dumb question ..
>
>but ..
>
>lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
>half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>
>now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
>blade and the fence ..
The piece may get jammed between the blade and the fence. Use a cut
off sled that rides in the miter slot or clamp a stand off on the
fence. This is an awkward cut for a table saw if the board is
long--use a circular saw and clamp a straightedge as a guide. A
radial arm saw is probably the best tool if you have one.
>
>historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
>blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
>it I should be doing it that way.
>
>
>mike
"Mike_in_SD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This might be a really dumb question ..
>
> but ..
>
> lets say you have a 1x12 board .. and you wanted to take a
> half inch off the board (making it 1 x 11 1/2)
>
> now .. do I put it in the saw where the half inch is between the
> blade and the fence ..
>
> historically, I have always put the fence a sliver away from the
> blade and ran it through that way .. but .. have always wondered
> it I should be doing it that way.
Hi Mike,
Think if it this way, Which is less trouble and easier, to simply set the
fence to the width you need or to take the width you have, subtract the
amount that you want to end up with, and then subtract the amount that the
blade is going to remove and set the fence at that number?
Hint, there should be no math needed to cut the piece to the correct width
correctly.
The piece that you want to end up with should be and will more often end up
being the correct size it you adjust the fence for the exact size that you
want to end up with.
Now that you know, when you want to end up with narrower pieces, always use
a push stick to push the work past the blade. Its OK to cut into your push
stick.