Would they be the easiest way to build doors. What is the common home method
to build 6 panel doors with no shaper?
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CMT makes a door set for the router. Works great.
> Check with your local CMT vendor.
> Dave
>
> "habbi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
> > thick
> > 80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors?
> > Thanks
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> http://www.usenet.com
CMT makes a door set for the router. Works great.
Check with your local CMT vendor.
Dave
"habbi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
> thick
> 80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors?
> Thanks
>
>
Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com
"habbi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What is ABPW?
>
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 02:06:09 GMT, the inscrutable "dadiOH"
<[email protected]> spake:
>habbi wrote:
>> A 1.5" thick door is basically 2 3/4" cupboard doors back to back.
>> Couldn't you just do one side of all the styles and rails and then
>> flip them over and do the other? And the same for the raised panels?
>
>Sure can. To both.
Wouldn't that leave double grooves for panels?
--
A lot of folks can't understand how we came
to have an oil shortage here in America.
Well, there's a very simple answer...nobody
bothered to check the oil; We just didn't
know we were getting low.
The reason for that is purely geographical
- our OIL is located in Alaska, California,
Oklahoma and Texas.
Our DIPSTICKS are located in Washington, DC.
No! Think where the groove is, for one thing. Think about the scale of
the profile on a kitchen cabinet with a rail/stile about 2-1/2" wide, vs
the width of rails on a door.
Dave
habbi wrote:
> A 1.5" thick door is basically 2 3/4" cupboard doors back to back. Couldn't
> you just do one side of all the styles and rails and then flip them over and
> do the other? And the same for the raised panels?
>
> "David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Is your question, "can I use router bits instead of shaper bits to make
>>1 1/2" panel doors"? I've not seen any router bits for rails and stiles
>>that cover 1.5", but maybe they are out there somewhere. Sounds like a
>>shaper kinda task.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>habbi wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
>
> thick
>
>>>80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors?
>
> Thanks
>
>>>
>
>
What is ABPW?
"Edward LeBlanc" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As others have pointed out, there are bit sets for doors. However, you do
> not need a specialized set.
>
> If you are willing to do a little extra hand work, you can use a router
> table to create the profile on the stiles and rails with a quater round
bit
> of the appropriate size. A groove can then be cut using a straight bit (I
> suggest using a spiral bit for this).
>
> Cut mortise and tenons on the appropriate parts. A few things to think
> about:
>
> 1. There are more mortises than you think on a door like this. Count
them
> before you decide to cut them by hand then see if you know someone with a
> mortiser.
>
> 2. If you use a 3/8" router bit to cut the groove and have a metric
mortise
> chisel, they mayl not quite match. Check to see that they are the same
> size. Even though the chisel may be marked 3/8", it may be 10 mm.
>
> 3. Don't forget to leave enough length for the tenons. Also leave the
ends
> of the stiles a little long if you are going to hand chop mortises to
> minimize any chance of breaking the end out.
>
> Where stile and rail meet, the quarter round on the stile is carefully
> trimmed flat with a chisel. The quarter round is either coped or mitered
to
> meet the adjoining piece. This is easier than it sounds because you
should
> have a shoulder to show you exactly where to trim. Use a gauge block cut
at
> 45 degrees to guide the chisel to cut a miter on the quarter round. You
can
> either cut a matching miter on the rail or cope the joint. I prefer to
cope
> the joint.
>
> For the raised panels I used a vertical raising bit because I was able to
> get a little more reveal using a vertical raising bit. IMO, a horizontal
> router bit is not large enough for sufficient reveal--you really need a
> shaper to raise the panel horizontally. Draw a scale drawing and see what
> looks right to you.
>
> I will post a picture to ABPW of an exterior door that I built using these
> methods. The door is only 1-1/8" thick since it is a screen door, but the
> same methods apply.
>
> Ed
>
>
> "habbi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
> > thick
> > 80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors?
> > Thanks
> >
> >
>
>
David wrote:
> Is your question, "can I use router bits instead of shaper bits to make
> 1 1/2" panel doors"? I've not seen any router bits for rails and stiles
> that cover 1.5", but maybe they are out there somewhere. Sounds like a
> shaper kinda task.
>
> Dave
MLCS has passage and entry door router bit sets. Check about 2/3 of the
page down at:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_stack.html
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 02:06:09 GMT, the inscrutable "dadiOH"
> <[email protected]> spake:
>
>> habbi wrote:
>>> A 1.5" thick door is basically 2 3/4" cupboard doors back to back.
>>> Couldn't you just do one side of all the styles and rails and then
>>> flip them over and do the other? And the same for the raised panels?
>>
>> Sure can. To both.
>
> Wouldn't that leave double grooves for panels?
No, the goal is one 1/2" (or a smidge less) groove and that is what you
get if the cutting depth is set properly. As I said in another post,
one has to consider the geometry of the bit and how one is going to use
them prior to starting.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
As others have pointed out, there are bit sets for doors. However, you do
not need a specialized set.
If you are willing to do a little extra hand work, you can use a router
table to create the profile on the stiles and rails with a quater round bit
of the appropriate size. A groove can then be cut using a straight bit (I
suggest using a spiral bit for this).
Cut mortise and tenons on the appropriate parts. A few things to think
about:
1. There are more mortises than you think on a door like this. Count them
before you decide to cut them by hand then see if you know someone with a
mortiser.
2. If you use a 3/8" router bit to cut the groove and have a metric mortise
chisel, they mayl not quite match. Check to see that they are the same
size. Even though the chisel may be marked 3/8", it may be 10 mm.
3. Don't forget to leave enough length for the tenons. Also leave the ends
of the stiles a little long if you are going to hand chop mortises to
minimize any chance of breaking the end out.
Where stile and rail meet, the quarter round on the stile is carefully
trimmed flat with a chisel. The quarter round is either coped or mitered to
meet the adjoining piece. This is easier than it sounds because you should
have a shoulder to show you exactly where to trim. Use a gauge block cut at
45 degrees to guide the chisel to cut a miter on the quarter round. You can
either cut a matching miter on the rail or cope the joint. I prefer to cope
the joint.
For the raised panels I used a vertical raising bit because I was able to
get a little more reveal using a vertical raising bit. IMO, a horizontal
router bit is not large enough for sufficient reveal--you really need a
shaper to raise the panel horizontally. Draw a scale drawing and see what
looks right to you.
I will post a picture to ABPW of an exterior door that I built using these
methods. The door is only 1-1/8" thick since it is a screen door, but the
same methods apply.
Ed
"habbi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
> thick
> 80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors?
> Thanks
>
>
"Lenny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've built many large doors using several methods , ...
> I'd suggest starting with square edged stock, using mortise and tenon
> joinery and then apply the sticking (which can easily be made on a
> router table) and panels later after the door has been glued up.
> just my 2 cents
> Lenny
Interesting. There was an article in, I think Fine Woodworking, maybe FHB a
couple issues back dealing with door construction in a laminated fashion.
It intrigued me enough that I'm thinking of tackling the front door for the
house we're gonna build next year.
Basically you make a sandwich of your chosen wood, using pocket-hole joinery
to do the rails and stiles in three layers. Looked pretty easy compared to
the alternative. Besides, it gives you an excuse to buy a Kreg jig (if you
need an excuse that is)... : )
Jason
That would be a good method for him to build the door if he doesn't have
the proper tools to cut the large profiles (shaper).
Dave
Lenny wrote:
> I've built many large doors using several methods , ...
> I'd suggest starting with square edged stock, using mortise and tenon
> joinery and then apply the sticking (which can easily be made on a
> router table) and panels later after the door has been glued up.
> just my 2 cents
> Lenny
>
> On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 23:55:42 GMT, "habbi" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Would they be the easiest way to build doors. What is the common home method
>>to build 6 panel doors with no shaper?
>>
>>"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>CMT makes a door set for the router. Works great.
>>>Check with your local CMT vendor.
>>>Dave
>>>
>>>"habbi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>>Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
>>>>thick
>>>>80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors?
>>>>Thanks
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
>>>----------------------------------------------------------
>>> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
>>>----------------------------------------------------------
>>> http://www.usenet.com
>>
>
I've built many large doors using several methods , ...
I'd suggest starting with square edged stock, using mortise and tenon
joinery and then apply the sticking (which can easily be made on a
router table) and panels later after the door has been glued up.
just my 2 cents
Lenny
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 23:55:42 GMT, "habbi" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Would they be the easiest way to build doors. What is the common home method
>to build 6 panel doors with no shaper?
>
>"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> CMT makes a door set for the router. Works great.
>> Check with your local CMT vendor.
>> Dave
>>
>> "habbi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
>> > thick
>> > 80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors?
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
>> ----------------------------------------------------------
>> http://www.usenet.com
>
habbi wrote:
> A 1.5" thick door is basically 2 3/4" cupboard doors back to back.
> Couldn't you just do one side of all the styles and rails and then
> flip them over and do the other? And the same for the raised panels?
Sure can. To both.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
A 1.5" thick door is basically 2 3/4" cupboard doors back to back. Couldn't
you just do one side of all the styles and rails and then flip them over and
do the other? And the same for the raised panels?
"David" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is your question, "can I use router bits instead of shaper bits to make
> 1 1/2" panel doors"? I've not seen any router bits for rails and stiles
> that cover 1.5", but maybe they are out there somewhere. Sounds like a
> shaper kinda task.
>
> Dave
>
> habbi wrote:
>
> > Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
thick
> > 80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors?
Thanks
> >
> >
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 21:11:52 GMT, "habbi" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5" thick
>80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors? Thanks
>
I havn'ty tried it but with some figureing you probly can. However----
are you also making the jambs as well? most interior doors are 1 3/8"
thick and exterior doors are 1 3/4" thick. so 1 1/2" doors aint gonna
fit standard jambs. you will need jambs that you can apply your own
stops to. YMMV
skeez
Is your question, "can I use router bits instead of shaper bits to make
1 1/2" panel doors"? I've not seen any router bits for rails and stiles
that cover 1.5", but maybe they are out there somewhere. Sounds like a
shaper kinda task.
Dave
habbi wrote:
> Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5" thick
> 80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size doors? Thanks
>
>
habbi wrote:
> Can a bit set for making cabinet doors be used to make full size 1.5"
> thick 80" tall) panel doors. What are some tips on making full size
> doors? Thanks
Sure. And all the passage doors in my house prove it.
Depends a bit on the geometry of the bit though. And do some figuring
as to how the bits are going to effect things; for example, you will
probably need to plan on a 1/2" tongue on the panels.
One thing you *can't* do (IMO) is to expect gluing the coping to hold
the rails and stiles together...need more glue surface and a mechanical
joining as well. In my case, I used loose tenons 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 5"-
half the length in the rail, half in the stile.
Tips? keep things square, keep them flat and finsh as much as possible
before joining.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico