I'm helping someone refurbish sliding closet doors. The doors
themselves have a simple groove routed top and bottom to
accomodate the guide strips which are nailed into recesses in
the closet frame.
Questions:
1. Would it be best to fabricate the new guide strips of
a hardwood like red oak or is a softer wood the better
option?
Note: the doors themselves are faced with ply. I have
not determined what wood composes the gooved
portion of the doors. If that determination is necessary,
please let me know. If it comes to speciating the slotted
wood in the doors, more guidance may be needed.
2. As I'll be making new ones, are there any suggested
fractional clearance intervals between sides and top
of the guide strips and the door slots?
3. Should the strips or slots be left denuded of paint?
If paint is wise, a list of kinds and names would be
welcome. What can be had here under air-quality
regulations is another thing.
Would another coating or impregnation of the strips
or slots be advisable?
4. Along its inmost contact surface with the slots, the old
molding has a low, roughly convex profile. How much of that
owes to wear, only 70 years could say. To be honest, my
hasty look at the doors didn't leave me with a memory of the
slot profile, although presumption would think it rectilinear.
If there is a default profile for the inmost surface on the
new molding--or there are outstanding questions for me
to resolve--I'd appreciate direction.
Lastly, I'm happy to chase down the answer on the net--
and will. However, if someone has actual knowledge ready to
leap from their brains to the keyboard, I'm all ears in the lotus
position.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
On Feb 18, 12:42=A0am, "Edward Hennessey" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> I'm helping someone refurbish sliding closet doors. The doors
> themselves have a simple groove routed top and bottom to
> accomodate the guide strips which are nailed into recesses in
> the closet frame.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Would it be best to fabricate the new guide strips of
> =A0 =A0 =A0a hardwood like red oak or is a softer wood the better
> =A0 =A0 =A0option?
>
> =A0 =A0 Note: the doors themselves are faced with ply. I have
> =A0 =A0 not =A0determined what wood composes the gooved
> =A0 =A0 portion of the doors. If that determination is necessary,
> =A0 =A0 please let me know. If it comes to speciating the slotted
> =A0 =A0 wood in the doors, more guidance may be needed.
>
> 2. =A0As I'll be making new ones, are there any suggested
> =A0 =A0 =A0fractional clearance intervals between sides and top
> =A0 =A0 =A0of the guide strips and the door slots?
>
> 3. =A0Should the strips or slots be left denuded of paint?
> =A0 =A0 =A0If paint is wise, a list of kinds and names would be
> =A0 =A0 =A0welcome. What can be had here under air-quality
> =A0 =A0 =A0regulations is another thing.
> =A0 =A0 =A0Would another coating or impregnation of the strips
> =A0 =A0 =A0or slots be advisable?
>
> 4. Along its inmost contact surface with the slots, the old
> =A0 =A0 molding has a =A0low, =A0roughly convex profile. How much of that
> =A0 =A0 owes to wear, only 70 years could say. To be honest, my
> =A0 =A0 hasty look at the doors didn't leave me with a memory of the
> =A0 =A0 slot profile, although presumption would think it rectilinear.
>
> =A0 =A0 If there is a default profile for the inmost surface on the
> =A0 =A0 new molding--or there are outstanding questions for me
> =A0 =A0 to resolve--I'd appreciate direction.
>
> Lastly, I'm happy to chase down the answer on the net--
> and will. However, if someone has actual knowledge ready to
> leap from their brains to the keyboard, I'm all ears in the lotus
> position.
See if one of these works for you.
http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2010_master_catalog/=
page/54
R
Edward Hennessey wrote:
> I'm helping someone refurbish sliding closet doors. The doors
> themselves have a simple groove routed top and bottom to
> accomodate the guide strips which are nailed into recesses in
> the closet frame.
>
> Questions:
More options (in addition to RicodJour's)
http://johnsonhardware.com/sdindex.htm
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
> Lastly, I'm happy to chase down the answer on the net--
> and will. However, if someone has actual knowledge ready to
> leap from their brains to the keyboard, I'm all ears in the lotus
> position.
>
> Regards,
>
> Edward Hennessey
I would use the hardest and smoothest wood you can find. I wouldn't
use Oak because it has pronounced grain. Use hard maple. Physics
instruct that you should minimize the contact surface area for the
smoothest ride. So shape it to have a bit of an acute radius if
possible. However you need to keep wear in the equation so you do need
something wider than a knife poiint edge. Then wax it, no paint.
"RicodJour" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:d41c57e0-f765-4113-a622-36b92875fa7b@r19g2000prm.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 18, 8:01 am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> More options (in addition to RicodJour's)
> http://johnsonhardware.com/sdindex.htm
My favorite hardware for sliding doors is sheaves on a track. Old
school, but pretty bulletproof.
http://www.cabinetmakerssupply.com/sheave_track_18_cabinet_sheaves_and_track_3471_prd1.htm
Hettich is one brand, and in selecting the sheaves I'd suggest bumping
up the load rating to ~150% of the door weight.
R
R:
Thank you for both URLs. I'll relay the modernization options from you
and DadiOH
upstairs.
BTW, I hope RicodNuit remains an option in your toolkit.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:7c6725d2-789c-41d4-b934-bfa054fe9cff@a28g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
>> Lastly, I'm happy to chase down the answer on the net--
>> and will. However, if someone has actual knowledge ready to
>> leap from their brains to the keyboard, I'm all ears in the lotus
>> position.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Edward Hennessey
>
> I would use the hardest and smoothest wood you can find. I wouldn't
> use Oak because it has pronounced grain. Use hard maple. Physics
> instruct that you should minimize the contact surface area for the
> smoothest ride. So shape it to have a bit of an acute radius if
> possible. However you need to keep wear in the equation so you do
> need
> something wider than a knife poiint edge. Then wax it, no paint.
SP:
Your points on waxing and desirable wood characteristics are well
taken. I'll forward the options for a roller system versus the
original
wood-to-wood setup.
Thanks and regards,
Edward Hennessey
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Edward Hennessey wrote:
>> I'm helping someone refurbish sliding closet doors. The doors
>> themselves have a simple groove routed top and bottom to
>> accomodate the guide strips which are nailed into recesses in
>> the closet frame.
>>
>> Questions:
>
> More options (in addition to RicodJour's)
> http://johnsonhardware.com/sdindex.htm
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
>
>
>
D:
Thanks for the pointer.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
On Feb 18, 8:01=A0am, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> More options (in addition to RicodJour's)
> http://johnsonhardware.com/sdindex.htm
My favorite hardware for sliding doors is sheaves on a track. Old
school, but pretty bulletproof.
http://www.cabinetmakerssupply.com/sheave_track_18_cabinet_sheaves_and_trac=
k_3471_prd1.htm
Hettich is one brand, and in selecting the sheaves I'd suggest bumping
up the load rating to ~150% of the door weight.
R