I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out the
washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff (like maybe
a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated
"convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat a
1" screw
in a 4 by 4).
I'm think that a good wired drill will last me a good long time, longer than
the battery in any battery operated model. The Milwaukee 0234-6 received
very good reviews
at amazon.com. I lack the experience to know whether this is possibly "too
much" drill. Is this a decent drill to use for simple woodworking and
household use? I noticed a reviewer faulted it for not having high enough
RPM (0-850). Is this drill much heavier than a 3/8" model? Should I
possibly choose a 3/8" drill instead because it would probably be
sufficient? For the marginal difference in the price of this tool, I'd
rather have "good" than "good enough".
Thank you for any comments/suggestions,
Bill
On Jun 13, 9:27=A0pm, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out t=
he
> washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff (like ma=
ybe
> a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
>
> Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
> household drill? =A0I already have a lightweight, battery operated
> "convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat=
a
> 1" screw
> in a 4 by 4).
>
> I'm think that a good wired drill will last me a good long time, longer t=
han
> the battery in any battery operated model. =A0The Milwaukee 0234-6 receiv=
ed
> very good reviews
> at amazon.com. =A0I lack the experience to know whether this is possibly =
"too
> much" drill. =A0Is this a decent drill to use for simple woodworking and
> household use? =A0I noticed a reviewer faulted it for not having high eno=
ugh
> RPM (0-850). =A0Is this drill much heavier than a 3/8" model? =A0Should I
> possibly choose a 3/8" drill instead because it would probably be
> sufficient? =A0For the marginal difference in the price of this tool, I'd
> rather have "good" than "good enough".
>
> Thank you for any comments/suggestions,
> Bill
Sorry, a bit late to the party, but that is waaay too much drill.
Great to have around for them large hole-saw jobs or that shoulder
dislocation that seems to be so popular these days. I have a 5370 5.5
amp, and I think it might have the same motor although that model has
a 2-speed gearbox and hammer function.
I love my little Makita 9/16" chuck 1501 HP. I use it all the time
when there is an outlet nearby.
On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 02:46:42 -0400, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Reviews of Bostik Top-Coat (sealent) at amazon.com seem to be quite mixed.
>Ordinary car wax seems to be a popular alternative. Well, I know a lot more
>than I did yesterday...
>
>Hope everyone is protecting their garage-bound tools (from rust)!
>I'll keep reading!
>
>Bill
>
I use plain old Johnson's Paste Wax on the cast iron surfaces of my
TS, Jointer, etc. Ordinary car wax might work ok, but there's been a
lot of cautionary tales about being sure there's no silicones in the
wax. Never experienced it myself, but reports are, silicone transfer
to the wood causes fisheye problems in the finish.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
On Sun, 14 Jun 2009 11:22:20 -0400, "C & S"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
>> household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated
>> "convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat
>> a 1" screw
>> in a 4 by 4).
>>
>> I'm think that a good wired drill will last me a good long time, longer
>> than the battery in any battery operated model. The Milwaukee 0234-6
>> received very good reviews
>
>...Snipped.
>
>The 0234-6 is too much drill.
>
>I have 3 main (hand) drills and the 0234-6 is one of them. The reason why I
>bought this drill is for the 1/2" chuck, low RPM and high torque. The same
>reasons that make it a poor choice as all-around household drill. You want
>something with less weight and higher RPM. And BTW you don't have to pay
>north of C-note to get a decent all-purpose corded drill. $50-$75 will get
>you a 3/8" keyless chucked drill from a quality manufacturer.
>
>The day may come that you need that big boy, save your pennies until then.
>
>If you have a good cordless drill (which, by your description of it's power,
>you do not) you will reach for it 90% of the time.
I agree. However, he has a point about batteries. They are
outlandishly expensive. That said, I currently have seven cordless
drills (a couple because a new drill is often cheaper than a new set
of batteries). My only corded drill is a Bosch hammer-drill I bought
specifically for drilling into concrete walls and mixing thinset.
>Happy drill buying
A trip to the toy store is always fun.
Bill wrote:
> Lew, I live closer to Indianapolis. Thank you for your suggestions!
> After reading them
> I think I'll be storing my smaller tools in sealed plastic
> containers resting on
> milk crates or plastic shelves.
Along that stretch of 24, my guess is that I have a relative living in
about every 10th house, most of whom I've never met.
Get some desiccant packs and you are good to go.
Have fun.
Lew
Bill wrote:
> Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general
> purpose" household drill?
IMHO, no.
That drill is a real "Hoss".
If you want a heavy duty 1/2" drill, consider a right angle unit.
At least that way you won't jam your wrists when that big hole saw
jams or some other large load doesn't want to cooperate.
Lew
"Bill" <[email protected]> writes:
> 1. I don't wish to enflame anyone, but does Craftsman (Sears) make a good
> "general purpose"
> household drill, or should I avoid them?
I'll answer with four craftsman stories.
1. I worked at the Museum of Erotic Art in SF back in early 70s. The
in house carpentry shop was outfitted with all new Craftsman tools.
Table saws, band saws, planers, etc. Within 5-6 weeks the carpenters
(not me) were complaining and bearings were being replaced.
2. When I worked as a motorcycle mechanic, had some Craftsman hand
tools. Two open end wrenches broke. "Sears will replace them for
free", you say. I lived 100 miles from nearest Sears.
3. I bought a brand new Craftsman electric weed cutter. The design
was such that the cutter line would eventually destroy the blade
holder that trimmed the line, which it did in short order.
4. Had a friend who bought a Sears floor stand drill press (1/2").
Pure junk! Bearings were shot within a year and the quill was rough
and jerky.
Craftsman does make some good tools. Screw/nut drivers come to mind.
Their deep sockets are unbeatable for the price (on sale) and if
you're not using them at home. I'll testify before gawd their
older roll away tool boxes are indestructable. But, on the whole,
most of their stuff is a crap shoot and if you have the money, spend
it on something better. If you're working to make a living, avoid it
like the plague.
my 2¢...
nb
Jack Stein <[email protected]> writes:
> The mixer I use needs a lot of speed.
> other styles of mixers but none work as well as this one. 900 rpm is
> too slow for this one, 2600 is fine.
Most ppl don't realize small drills (< 1/4") require higher rpms, so
look for a corded 1/4" drill motor. Makita makes a corded drill motor
that's 1/4" chuck and variable speed to 4500rmp.
http://www.toolsforless.com/product/3703/productSpecifications
If your paint mixer shaft is larger than 1/4", you may hafta change
the chuck.
nb
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> writes:
> At least that way you won't jam your wrists when that big hole saw
> jams or some other large load doesn't want to cooperate.
So, that's why right angle drills are so popular with you guys.
Problem is, that right angle gear set robs a lot of power. They're
very inefficient. Besides, many 1/2" drills have large double handles
perpendicular to the drill axis just to control all that torque. My
only Mikita is a 1/2" drill motor. Got more handles than a usenet
troll! ;)
nb
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> writes:
> Try standing on your head drilling a 4" hole thru a set of floors, 16"
> on centers, in a boat hull.
Agreed. That's a tuffy.
> It's all ass holes and elbows, no room for handles.
I'll learn. ;)
nb
<[email protected]> wrote:
> So, that's why right angle drills are so popular with you guys.
After the first time a 4" hole saw jams and twists your wristsn with a
straight drive, nobody has to smack you up side your head to get your
attention next time.
> Problem is, that right angle gear set robs a lot of power. They're
> very inefficient.
So?
They have torque to burn.
> Besides, many 1/2" drills have large double handles
> perpendicular to the drill axis just to control all that torque.
Try standing on your head drilling a 4" hole thru a set of floors, 16"
on centers, in a boat hull.
It's all ass holes and elbows, no room for handles.
Lew
Might want to give this some more thought. I own two 14.4 volt Makita
portables, a 14.4 volt impact driver and a wired Bosch. The Bosch is
about 5-6 years old and sits in its box looking like new. One of the
Makita's looks like a well-worn stock car and the other two are
heading that way. Message-the wired drill gets to be a hassle. Always
looking for an extension cord or plug in. Also, it causes the same
problem that Ignoramus mentioned - a whole lot of torque. On
occasions when I need more time that the battery will provide; or I
need the power it usually tries to twist my wrist or slam my fingers
against an adjacent object before I remember what I'm doing. If you
are going corded, I would suggest a low end, lower powered machine.
You might not use it as much as you think.
BTW - I have owned a 1023S for about seven years and love it. Great
machine.
RonB
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:Tr-
>
>> You need to decide what you will do with a drill press before deciding on
>> a particular type.
>
> I wish to drill an accurate 5/8" hole, about 2 inches deep, in the bottom
> end of a maple banjo neck to hold the dowel stick. Here are some nice
> pics of what I have in mind:
>
> http://www.flesherbanjo.com/minstrel2.html
I used a Rockwell 32" radial bench top for 30 years and pretty much knew
what I wanted when I upgraded a couple of months ago. I bought a Delta
17-959L, this one
http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15685.
The big selling feature for me was that the spindle travel is just short of
5", spindle speed could be adjusted lower than 300 rpm. The slower speeds
are better for large bits. Additionally the feature that won my decision
was that the table tilts left and right 90 degrees and towards you 45
degrees which makes drilling compound angles a little easier. The table
has T-Slots to attach fences or hold downs easily. I got mine for about
$529.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote
> 1. I don't wish to enflame anyone, but does Craftsman (Sears) make a good
> "general purpose"
> household drill, or should I avoid them?
>
> 2. Same question as above, but for drill press.
> Thank you for any comments,
> Bill
Here is a stout little drill that I bought a few years ago to replace a
DeWalt that had been worked to death.
http://tinyurl.com/6lf8x2
At Lowes and very reasonably priced.
Max
"David G. Nagel" wrote:
> Where along US24? I used to live in Wabash from '58 to '83.
Have an aunt & uncle who lived in Peru until death.
Have an uncle who was the farm mgr at White's Institute in Wabash for
many years before his death.
My parents met at the Long Cliff hospital in Wabash where they both
worked.
My grand parents and several uncles are buried in Logansport.
Have some cousins around Burnetsville.
There's more, those are just the ones that come quickly to mind.
Lew
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> Thank you for all of the replies to my question. They confirmed my
> concern
> that the drill is unnecessarily powerful than I have a use for at this
> time, and provided
> me with other helpful information.
>
> 1. I don't wish to enflame anyone, but does Craftsman (Sears) make a good
> "general purpose"
> household drill, or should I avoid them?
You can do much better, http://www.tylertool.com/mi023vsrmadr.html
> 2. Same question as above, but for drill press.
You need to decide what you will do with a drill press before deciding on a
particular type.
> I have another question. I'll live in central Indiana and I'll have an
> attached garage (brick if that matters).
> Would large and small tools left in an environment like that generally be
> safe from corrosion (rust)?
I live in Houston and it has very humid climate along with salt in the air
when we get a southerly breeze. I have no real problem with rust at all.
The rust potential will be more of a problem if you work in an air
conditioned shop and let the shop warm up with humid air at night.
Condensation on cool surfaces will cause rust. As long as your equipment
does not experience sudden temperature changes it should do fine.
> When I grew up near Detroit, my dad told me not to make the mistake he did
> of leaving his tools (wrenches) out
> in his external garage as they all became quite rusty. Of course, they
> were not plated like those you
> would buy today.
>
> Will I need to do something "extra" to protect a tool like a table saw or
> a drill from corrosion? Or should I leave
> the drills, and maybe especially the batteries, in the house?
Exposed iron surfaces can be protected with TopCote.
> Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
> household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated
> "convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat
> a 1" screw
> in a 4 by 4).
>
> I'm think that a good wired drill will last me a good long time, longer
> than the battery in any battery operated model. The Milwaukee 0234-6
> received very good reviews
...Snipped.
The 0234-6 is too much drill.
I have 3 main (hand) drills and the 0234-6 is one of them. The reason why I
bought this drill is for the 1/2" chuck, low RPM and high torque. The same
reasons that make it a poor choice as all-around household drill. You want
something with less weight and higher RPM. And BTW you don't have to pay
north of C-note to get a decent all-purpose corded drill. $50-$75 will get
you a 3/8" keyless chucked drill from a quality manufacturer.
The day may come that you need that big boy, save your pennies until then.
If you have a good cordless drill (which, by your description of it's power,
you do not) you will reach for it 90% of the time.
Happy drill buying
-Steve
On 2009-06-14, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out the
> washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff (like maybe
> a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
>
> Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
> household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated
> "convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat a
> 1" screw
> in a 4 by 4).
I think that it is a good drill for drilling large holes, deck screws
etc where a lot of torque is required. It may not be so good for
general purpose use, as it may be "too strong" and could cause you to
sprain your wrist if something binds. I use a smaller drill (Black and
Decker) for general purpose stuff. I have a similar (to what you
mention) DeWalt drill and try to use it only when really necessary. If
possible, I would have two drills, one for general drilling, and
another, stronger one like this Milwaukee, for more rare cases like
driving long deck screws, etc. If you do go that route and buy a
smaller general purpose drill, you may find that a keyless chuck is a
big time saver.
i
On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 10:08:15 -0500, Jack Stein <[email protected]>
wrote:
>krw wrote:
>
> My only corded drill is a Bosch hammer-drill I bought
>> specifically for drilling into concrete walls and mixing thinset.
>
>>> Happy drill buying
>
>Yes, I also have a corded 3/8 Makita hammer drill. I only use it for
>drilling in concrete, but it would be good for a general purpose drill
>also, as it is speedy enough to mix paint:-) I don't use it for mixing
>paint because I have a corded 3/8 Sears (Dewalt) drill for that:-) I
>guess if I were only allowed to own one corded drill, the hammer drill
>would probably be it.
"Speedy enough for paint"???? You're not supposed to whip it.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>> 1. I don't wish to enflame anyone, but does Craftsman (Sears) make
>> a good "general purpose"
>> household drill, or should I avoid them?
>>
>> 2. Same question as above, but for drill press.
>
> S&R may get back to where they were 60 years ago, but why wait?
>
> Milwaukee, Bosch, DeWalt all have decent equipment at a fair price.
>
>> I have another question. I'll live in central Indiana and I'll have
>> an attached garage (brick if that matters).
>> Would large and small tools left in an environment like that
>> generally be safe from corrosion (rust)?
>
> RE: Indiana
>
> Somewhere along 24 (Peru, Wabash, Logansport)?
>
> Properly stored tools are not a problem; however, I'd keep batteries
> inside.
>
> Winter weather is low humidity, so store up off the ground in
> containers that won't sweat.
>
> Cast iron surfaces, T/S, drill press, etc, need to be coated and then
> DO NOT store things on top of these surfaces.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>
Lew
Where along US24? I used to live in Wabash from '58 to '83.
Dave Nagel
"Bill" wrote:
> I wish to drill an accurate 5/8" hole, about 2 inches deep, in the
> bottom end of a maple banjo neck to hold the dowel stick.
A drill press, a carbide tipped forstner bit, and some jigs gets the
job done.
> Here are some nice pics of what I have in mind:
>
> http://www.flesherbanjo.com/minstrel2.html
I'm confused, are you working with this guy or competing against him?
He's here in SoCal maybe 30 miles from me and you're 2,000+ miles away
in Indiana.
Lew
On Jun 15, 12:32=A0pm, Jack Stein <[email protected]> wrote:
> Car wax is just wax, unless it has silicone in it. =A0Silicone seems to
> help wax a lot when it comes to rust prevention and slickness.
> Woodworkers generally avoid it (silicone) like the plague. =A0Johnsons wa=
x
> is what many use, it has no silicone. =A0I personally like Topcote. =A0I
> never tried the other products like Boeshield T9 or Empire TopSaver and
> they are likely just as good as Topcote or better. For my use, I don't
> need anything better than Topcote.
<Snip>
I have only had my Unisaw for four months or so but so far Boeshield
is working fine. I live in E. Alabama and the saw lives in the
garage, so it's not in a very kind environment. Boeshield is not as
slick as I'd like it to be, though. It also seems to take some care
to keep it up. It's pretty soft (like a wax) so the miter gauge
scratches through the "waxy" surface to what appears to be bare
metal. I may try Topcote if I can find it somewhere (I have to buy
most everything over the Internet and shipping gets to be a
killer).
You need two drills...
A 1/2" for the heavy stuff
and a 3/8" for the regular stuff.
Look at the corded Makita for both.
The Makita is quite light and very
powerful.
http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=412
http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=345
In fairness to the other folks, most corded drills are very
similar in price and performance. I normally recommend Porter Cable
but my Makita seems to be a good bit lighter.
Bill wrote:
> I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out the
> washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff (like maybe
> a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
Bill wrote:
> I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out the
> washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff (like maybe
> a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
>
> Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
> household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated
> "convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat a
> 1" screw
> in a 4 by 4).
>
> I'm think that a good wired drill will last me a good long time, longer than
> the battery in any battery operated model. The Milwaukee 0234-6 received
> very good reviews
> at amazon.com. I lack the experience to know whether this is possibly "too
> much" drill. Is this a decent drill to use for simple woodworking and
> household use? I noticed a reviewer faulted it for not having high enough
> RPM (0-850). Is this drill much heavier than a 3/8" model? Should I
> possibly choose a 3/8" drill instead because it would probably be
> sufficient? For the marginal difference in the price of this tool, I'd
> rather have "good" than "good enough".
>
>
> Thank you for any comments/suggestions,
> Bill
I have this drill. It's built like a tank, and it's quite heavy
relative to your standard cordless unit. The quality is typical
American-made Milwaukee; nearly flawless and built to last a lifetime
(and beyond). That said, I rarely use it if my cordless (14V Porter
Cable) can do the job. Unless I need to bore a hole clear through a 4x4
with a 1" auger bit (which this drill can *easily* handle) it's very
often just too much drill for the job. That's not to say I'd recommend
the 3/8" model instead; if you're going to get a corded drill don't cut
yourself short - by all means get the 1/2" model (and Amazon's current
price of $109 is a great deal). Just don't fool yourself into thinking
you're going to use it all the time.
Sounds to me like the lightweight drill you have is not enough, and if
you get this one you'll have "too much" AND "not enough". You might
first consider a good, strong, reliable 3/8" cordless drill to cover the
majority of your general purpose needs, then come back and get the 1/2"
Milwaukee later on (unless you can afford both now, then by all means!).
Others can probably do a better job of recommending a cordless; I may
be in the market for one myself pretty soon and I haven't been keeping
on what the best choices are...
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>> I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out
>> the washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff
>> (like maybe a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
>>
>> Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
>> household drill?
Thank you for all of the replies to my question. They confirmed my concern
that the drill is unnecessarily powerful than I have a use for at this time,
and provided
me with other helpful information.
1. I don't wish to enflame anyone, but does Craftsman (Sears) make a good
"general purpose"
household drill, or should I avoid them?
2. Same question as above, but for drill press.
As I haven't had access to a garage in 30 years, I'm virtually starting from
scratch in power tools.
I have another question. I'll live in central Indiana and I'll have an
attached garage (brick if that matters).
Would large and small tools left in an environment like that generally be
safe from corrosion (rust)?
When I grew up near Detroit, my dad told me not to make the mistake he did
of leaving his tools (wrenches) out
in his external garage as they all became quite rusty. Of course, they were
not plated like those you
would buy today.
Will I need to do something "extra" to protect a tool like a table saw or a
drill from corrosion? Or should I leave
the drills, and maybe especially the batteries, in the house?
Thank you for any comments,
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:lE%[email protected]...
> Bill wrote:
>
>> 1. I don't wish to enflame anyone, but does Craftsman (Sears) make a
>> good "general purpose"
>> household drill, or should I avoid them?
>>
>> 2. Same question as above, but for drill press.
>
> S&R may get back to where they were 60 years ago, but why wait?
>
> Milwaukee, Bosch, DeWalt all have decent equipment at a fair price.
>
>> I have another question. I'll live in central Indiana and I'll have an
>> attached garage (brick if that matters).
>> Would large and small tools left in an environment like that generally be
>> safe from corrosion (rust)?
>
> RE: Indiana
>
> Somewhere along 24 (Peru, Wabash, Logansport)?
>
> Properly stored tools are not a problem; however, I'd keep batteries
> inside.
>
> Winter weather is low humidity, so store up off the ground in containers
> that won't sweat.
>
> Cast iron surfaces, T/S, drill press, etc, need to be coated and then DO
> NOT store things on top of these surfaces.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
Lew, I live closer to Indianapolis. Thank you for your suggestions! After
reading them
I think I'll be storing my smaller tools in sealed plastic containers
resting on
milk crates or plastic shelves.
I wish to thank all of you for the tool suggestions too--I've got a lot of
"pent-up" wood
cutting to do! I'll start off with a few bird feeders (which is certain to
please my
wife) and work towards a few luthery (instrument) projects I've been reading
about for a few years.
The current owner of the house has truly the biggest (machinists) vise I
have ever
seen, bolted to a workbench (maybe it's for working on his RV?). I just
hope that he
leaves the bench!
Bill
Bill wrote:
> I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked
> out the washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important
> stuff (like maybe a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
>
> Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
> household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated
> "convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully
> seat a 1" screw
> in a 4 by 4).
>
> I'm think that a good wired drill will last me a good long time,
> longer than the battery in any battery operated model. The Milwaukee
> 0234-6 received very good reviews
> at amazon.com. I lack the experience to know whether this is
> possibly "too much" drill. Is this a decent drill to use for simple
> woodworking and household use? I noticed a reviewer faulted it for
> not having high enough RPM (0-850). Is this drill much heavier than
> a 3/8" model? Should I possibly choose a 3/8" drill instead because
> it would probably be sufficient? For the marginal difference in the
> price of this tool, I'd rather have "good" than "good enough".
In answer to your question, no, it's not a good household drill due to the
low RPM--it's fine for drilling steel with big twist drills but you're not
going to be doing that very often if at all. The 5378-20 (or the
equivalent from one of the other vendors) would be a far better bet for a
general purpose household drill due to the dual speed range and the ability
to easily sink a hole in concrete.
In all honesty, though, a good cordless would be a better bet. My 18v
dewalt has over the past 15 years or so drilled everything I've thrown at
it, and the newer ones have features that make me wish it would die and give
me an excuse to upgrade. Yeah, eventually the batteries go but it's a small
price to pay for the convenience. I finally gave away my corded Milwaukee
because it never got used anymore and I hated to see a good tool gathering
dust.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:Tr-
> You need to decide what you will do with a drill press before deciding on
> a particular type.
I wish to drill an accurate 5/8" hole, about 2 inches deep, in the bottom
end of a maple banjo neck to hold the dowel stick. Here are some nice pics
of what I have in mind:
http://www.flesherbanjo.com/minstrel2.html
I already have the calf's skin for the top, the hoop, the stock to make the
metal parts, some fine rasps to carve a neck, etc.
I could probably "jury-rig" something to get the job done with a hand drill,
and maybe that makes cents, but I thought a drill press was probably the
right tool for this job and it seems like it may be "nearly indispensible"
for the peg holes [and for those on a mountain ducimer (easier project) and
a violin (harder project)].
So that is an overview of my most adventuresome woodworking ideas. What
type of drill press would you suggest, if any?
i appreciate all of the comments that folks have contributed to this thread.
I have learned a great deal from your replies to this thread and from all of
your posts during the past several years!
Thank you,
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> I wish to drill an accurate 5/8" hole, about 2 inches deep, in the bottom
>> end of a maple banjo neck to hold the dowel stick.
>
> A drill press, a carbide tipped forstner bit, and some jigs gets the job
> done.
>
>> Here are some nice pics of what I have in mind:
>>
>> http://www.flesherbanjo.com/minstrel2.html
>
> I'm confused, are you working with this guy or competing against him?
>
> He's here in SoCal maybe 30 miles from me and you're 2,000+ miles away in
> Indiana.
>
> Lew
>
It's a small world. I'm not working with him nor competing against him, of
course.
Apparently we both appreciate "folk music". I enjoy listening to and
playing music
from yesteryear--and I find it a very short jump to be interested in
building the instruments,
or tinkering with them in the case of fiddle/violin.
"Art" takes many forms, as probably most of the people in this newsgroup
magazine
may agree. The more I look, listen, and think, the more that I feel that
art is art is art.
Maybe the sameness is a result of it all being a product of the human
spirit.
I seem to have drifted from the Milwaukee -234-6, so I'll stop there.
> He's here in SoCal maybe 30 miles from me and you're 2,000+ miles away in
> Indiana.
Lou, I'm in Indiana and your 2000+ miles away in SoCal--I'm rather amazed
that we're having
this conversation at all! If you want to have some fun, download the free
"GoogleEarth"
program (if you haven't already tried it).
Bill
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:4P2Zl.929
>
> Get some desiccant packs and you are good to go.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
How about these dessicant packets? This seems like quite a supply. Does a
gram of dessicant per cubic-foot seem about right? Is there a better place
to buy it--I didn't see it at Woodcraft's or Rockler's website. Sorry for
all the questions.
http://www.amazon.com/Pack-Moisture-Control-Gram-Packets/dp/B001OXP1VA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=miscellaneous&qid=1245045328&sr=8-8
krw wrote:
My only corded drill is a Bosch hammer-drill I bought
> specifically for drilling into concrete walls and mixing thinset.
>> Happy drill buying
Yes, I also have a corded 3/8 Makita hammer drill. I only use it for
drilling in concrete, but it would be good for a general purpose drill
also, as it is speedy enough to mix paint:-) I don't use it for mixing
paint because I have a corded 3/8 Sears (Dewalt) drill for that:-) I
guess if I were only allowed to own one corded drill, the hammer drill
would probably be it.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
J. Clarke wrote:
The 5378-20 (or the
> equivalent from one of the other vendors) would be a far better bet for a
> general purpose household drill due to the dual speed range and the ability
> to easily sink a hole in concrete.
I agree, 100%. If your garage is block, sooner or later you will be
adding electrical boxes, wood racks and that sort of stuff and a hammer
drill with good bits will be a god send.
> In all honesty, though, a good cordless would be a better bet. My 18v
> dewalt has over the past 15 years or so drilled everything I've thrown at
> it, and the newer ones have features that make me wish it would die and give
> me an excuse to upgrade. Yeah, eventually the batteries go but it's a small
> price to pay for the convenience. I finally gave away my corded Milwaukee
> because it never got used anymore and I hated to see a good tool gathering
> dust.
I agree, 100%. A small cordless, a large cordless and a corded hammer
drill. I'd go for the 3/8" hammer drill so you can use it to mix paint.
I use corded drill for mixing paint, and drilling concrete, not much
else. Cordless drills are all low rpm, and so are 1/2" drills I think.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
Bill wrote:
> Reviews of Bostik Top-Coat (sealent) at amazon.com seem to be quite mixed.
I just went and read some of those. The 4 & 5 star reports were
accurate. The 1 star I read was silly, and could only be true if the
guy got hold of a can of water instead of topcote. I used wax in my old
shop that had a major water problem, and it didn't work. I used a
product from 3M that is no longer sold, but I think Topcote is about the
same thing, but I can't test it in my old shop, but can tell you in my
new shop, (less wet) it is behaving the same as the old 3m product.
Anyone that says it is not slick is either lying or doing something very
wrong.
I always clean my tops with lacquer thinner just before coating, to
insure it is clean and dry. I don't use my shop as much as I used to,
but the old 3M stuff lasted about 6 months or more with daily use of my
tools, but no where near production use. Now, I use them very little,
so can't tell you how durable Topcote is under heavy use, but, it is
still perfect after a year of light use, no rust, still slick as sh*t!
> Ordinary car wax seems to be a popular alternative. Well, I know a lot more
> than I did yesterday...
Car wax is just wax, unless it has silicone in it. Silicone seems to
help wax a lot when it comes to rust prevention and slickness.
Woodworkers generally avoid it (silicone) like the plague. Johnsons wax
is what many use, it has no silicone. I personally like Topcote. I
never tried the other products like Boeshield T9 or Empire TopSaver and
they are likely just as good as Topcote or better. For my use, I don't
need anything better than Topcote.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
krw wrote:
> On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 10:08:15 -0500, Jack Stein <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> krw wrote:
>>
>> My only corded drill is a Bosch hammer-drill I bought
>>> specifically for drilling into concrete walls and mixing thinset.
>>>> Happy drill buying
>> Yes, I also have a corded 3/8 Makita hammer drill. I only use it for
>> drilling in concrete, but it would be good for a general purpose drill
>> also, as it is speedy enough to mix paint:-) I don't use it for mixing
>> paint because I have a corded 3/8 Sears (Dewalt) drill for that:-) I
>> guess if I were only allowed to own one corded drill, the hammer drill
>> would probably be it.
> "Speedy enough for paint"???? You're not supposed to whip it.
The mixer I use needs a lot of speed. It's a flat round disk about 2"
in diameter with slots/fins cut in the disk. I went on the internet to
find one to show you but seems it's not made anymore. It is very old,
but works really well at high speeds. Obviously there are many designs,
most from what I saw don't require high speeds. I have 2 other styles
of mixers but none work as well as this one. 900 rpm is too slow for
this one, 2600 is fine. None of my cordless drills are fast enough for
this mixer.
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You need two drills...
>
> A 1/2" for the heavy stuff
> and a 3/8" for the regular stuff.
>
> Look at the corded Makita for both.
>
> The Makita is quite light and very
> powerful.
>
> http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=412
> http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=345
Yes, I'm still "shopping". At first, I was impressed by someones remark
that a corded drill will probably outlive the batteries in it's cordless
cousin--but it's hard to overlook the convenience of a cordless drill. My
next one will probably be a 3/8" cordless drill in the 12 to 14.4 volt
range, keyless chuck.
Besides the cheap 3/8" cordless underdog I admitted to owning earlier, I
also have a 35+ year old Craftsman 3/8" my dad gave me 12 years ago. I'll
save up for the good 1/2" drill for when my requirments call for it.
Still waiting to close the deal on the house...the inspection didn't go as
well as it could have. After that, I will buy ladders and rakes and all
sorts of implements of construction!
Bill
Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
: I'm about to move into my first house--my wife and I already picked out the
: washer and dryer so I"m starting to shop for the important stuff (like maybe
: a Grizzly 1023 Table saw).
: Is the drill I mentioned in the subject line a good "general purpose"
: household drill? I already have a lightweight, battery operated
: "convenience" drill (which doesn't quite have enough torque to fully seat a
: 1" screw
: in a 4 by 4).
I'm coming late to this thread. I have a Milwaukee 3/8" holeshooter:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-0233-20-Magnum-8-Inch-Keyless/dp/B0000223HD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1245521150&sr=8-1
It's a fantastic drill. I would not pick the one you have, as I think the
850RPM maximum speed isn;t appropriate for a lot of household stuff.
I use the Milwaukee, and a cordless Bosch Lithium-Ion drill
which is also fantastic. The combination can't be beat.
The Bosch is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS20-2-10-8-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B000F4GITI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1245521427&sr=1-11
It weighs under two pounds, and is very strong for its size.
I added a keyless chuck for convenience.
-- Andy Barss
Bill wrote:
> 1. I don't wish to enflame anyone, but does Craftsman (Sears) make
> a good "general purpose"
> household drill, or should I avoid them?
>
> 2. Same question as above, but for drill press.
S&R may get back to where they were 60 years ago, but why wait?
Milwaukee, Bosch, DeWalt all have decent equipment at a fair price.
> I have another question. I'll live in central Indiana and I'll have
> an attached garage (brick if that matters).
> Would large and small tools left in an environment like that
> generally be safe from corrosion (rust)?
RE: Indiana
Somewhere along 24 (Peru, Wabash, Logansport)?
Properly stored tools are not a problem; however, I'd keep batteries
inside.
Winter weather is low humidity, so store up off the ground in
containers that won't sweat.
Cast iron surfaces, T/S, drill press, etc, need to be coated and then
DO NOT store things on top of these surfaces.
Have fun.
Lew