Finishing question

On Jan 22, 2:23=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Oops, my bad. I forgot you were going with water based for the
> clarity.
>
> I don't have experience with WB Poly over BLO. It seems that most
> folks suggest either a shellac coat in between or make sure the BLO
> dries at least a week.
>
> I think some full scale testing is required here. Sorry for the
> primrose path, I forgot you were doing WB.
>
> On Jan 22, 10:21=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Jan 22, 12:48=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > .
> > > Like Steve says, some folks have a bias against MinWax products but I
> > > find them mostly as good as any others (I like Microsoft too) and I
> > > have used their poly and it works well.
>
> > > Yes, adding some depth and color with BLO is a great idea. Thin it a
> > > bit with mineral spirits to help it penetrate and dry a little faster
> > > and let it dry a few days before you overcoat with poly.
>
> > > Steve was describing a sort of hybrid wiping poly approach. In fact,
> > > most of the poly work I do, I do a wiping application. Thin the poly
> > > by 50% or more with mineral spirits. Yes, the can may say don't thin
> > > more than 10 or 20% but you can ignore that. Flood the surface with a
> > > brush then immediately wipe it down with a saturated rag. Not so
> > > saturated that it won't pickup the extra but not so dry that it
> > > totally removes the material. Leave a super fine and smmoth suface
> > > film using really precise strokes with a smooth face on the rag.
>
> > > Don't touch it after you get it wiped down. Let dry 12-24 hours. On
> > > pourus woods the first coat or two will almost dissapear. Then it wil=
l
> > > start to build. Hand scuff and flatten after about 2 or 3 coats with
> > > 320 or 400 sand paper.. Then another coat or two or more (with satin
> > > in your case) to you liking depending on how much build up you want.
> > > Be careful in corners, molding seams, etc where you can get puddling
> > > and over build.
>
> > > Wait a week, then rub out with steel wool and wax.
>
> > > On Jan 21, 2:02=A0pm, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > On Jan 21, 12:37=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrot=
e:
>
> > > > > MinWax what?
>
> > > > > I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the inten=
ded
> > > > > use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
> > > > > shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly=
that
> > > > > is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and =
don't
> > > > > do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multip=
le
> > > > > coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a fina=
l
> > > > > coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effec=
t is
> > > > > created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
> > > > > multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
>
> > > > > On Jan 21, 7:09=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > > > I have just finished making a counter top out of birds eye mapl=
e with
> > > > > > 2 1/4" strips of paduk. =A0It is about 2 x 6 feet in size. =A0A=
nyway, it
> > > > > > will be used as a bar to sit at and eat or drink while in the
> > > > > > kitchen. =A0Thus there will be wet glasses and such on it. =A0I=
bought
> > > > > > some bush oil (to pop the grain) and some "rockhard table top f=
inish"
> > > > > > at Woodcraft, but I don't really like the looks of it when I ap=
plied
> > > > > > it to some scrap. =A0It just came out too glossy and commercial=
looking,
> > > > > > also darkened it too much. =A0I then tried just using boiled li=
nseed oil
> > > > > > on another sample and liked the shade it produced better. =A0So=
my
> > > > > > question is can I then just apply some MinWax over the BLO and =
still
> > > > > > get enough protection? =A0I think I'll start with a satin and m=
ove to
> > > > > > gloss if it doesn't look right.
>
> > > > > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. =A0Have you a better recommendation as =
far
> > > > as manufacturer? =A0 Your advice sounds good though. =A0Do you thin=
k it's
> > > > a good idea to apply it over the BLO? =A0There is a lot of figure i=
n
> > > > these boards and I really want to maximize it.
>
> > > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Thank you. =A0But I have been led to believe that water based poly will
> > preserve the color better then oil. =A0Assuming that is true, what I'm
> > trying to find out is can I apply this safely over BLO? =A0If I have
> > been led to believe the color part erroneously, please let me know.
>
> > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

No harm. I just didn't like amber shade that the bush oil / rockhard
produced. It made it look to "plasticy". I want it to have a sheen,
but not look commercial. Your advice will be noted though for other
projects..

Thanks,
Jim

Oops, my bad. I forgot you were going with water based for the
clarity.

I don't have experience with WB Poly over BLO. It seems that most
folks suggest either a shellac coat in between or make sure the BLO
dries at least a week.

I think some full scale testing is required here. Sorry for the
primrose path, I forgot you were doing WB.

On Jan 22, 10:21=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 22, 12:48=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > .
> > Like Steve says, some folks have a bias against MinWax products but I
> > find them mostly as good as any others (I like Microsoft too) and I
> > have used their poly and it works well.
>
> > Yes, adding some depth and color with BLO is a great idea. Thin it a
> > bit with mineral spirits to help it penetrate and dry a little faster
> > and let it dry a few days before you overcoat with poly.
>
> > Steve was describing a sort of hybrid wiping poly approach. In fact,
> > most of the poly work I do, I do a wiping application. Thin the poly
> > by 50% or more with mineral spirits. Yes, the can may say don't thin
> > more than 10 or 20% but you can ignore that. Flood the surface with a
> > brush then immediately wipe it down with a saturated rag. Not so
> > saturated that it won't pickup the extra but not so dry that it
> > totally removes the material. Leave a super fine and smmoth suface
> > film using really precise strokes with a smooth face on the rag.
>
> > Don't touch it after you get it wiped down. Let dry 12-24 hours. On
> > pourus woods the first coat or two will almost dissapear. Then it will
> > start to build. Hand scuff and flatten after about 2 or 3 coats with
> > 320 or 400 sand paper.. Then another coat or two or more (with satin
> > in your case) to you liking depending on how much build up you want.
> > Be careful in corners, molding seams, etc where you can get puddling
> > and over build.
>
> > Wait a week, then rub out with steel wool and wax.
>
> > On Jan 21, 2:02=A0pm, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > On Jan 21, 12:37=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > MinWax what?
>
> > > > I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the intende=
d
> > > > use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
> > > > shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly t=
hat
> > > > is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and do=
n't
> > > > do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multiple
> > > > coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a final
> > > > coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effect =
is
> > > > created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
> > > > multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
>
> > > > On Jan 21, 7:09=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > > I have just finished making a counter top out of birds eye maple =
with
> > > > > 2 1/4" strips of paduk. =A0It is about 2 x 6 feet in size. =A0Any=
way, it
> > > > > will be used as a bar to sit at and eat or drink while in the
> > > > > kitchen. =A0Thus there will be wet glasses and such on it. =A0I b=
ought
> > > > > some bush oil (to pop the grain) and some "rockhard table top fin=
ish"
> > > > > at Woodcraft, but I don't really like the looks of it when I appl=
ied
> > > > > it to some scrap. =A0It just came out too glossy and commercial l=
ooking,
> > > > > also darkened it too much. =A0I then tried just using boiled lins=
eed oil
> > > > > on another sample and liked the shade it produced better. =A0So m=
y
> > > > > question is can I then just apply some MinWax over the BLO and st=
ill
> > > > > get enough protection? =A0I think I'll start with a satin and mov=
e to
> > > > > gloss if it doesn't look right.
>
> > > > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. =A0Have you a better recommendation as fa=
r
> > > as manufacturer? =A0 Your advice sounds good though. =A0Do you think =
it's
> > > a good idea to apply it over the BLO? =A0There is a lot of figure in
> > > these boards and I really want to maximize it.
>
> > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Thank you. =A0But I have been led to believe that water based poly will
> preserve the color better then oil. =A0Assuming that is true, what I'm
> trying to find out is can I apply this safely over BLO? =A0If I have
> been led to believe the color part erroneously, please let me know.
>
> -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

On Jan 21, 12:37=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> MinWax what?
>
> I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the intended
> use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
> shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly that
> is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and don't
> do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multiple
> coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a final
> coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effect is
> created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
> multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
>
> On Jan 21, 7:09=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I have just finished making a counter top out of birds eye maple with
> > 2 1/4" strips of paduk. =A0It is about 2 x 6 feet in size. =A0Anyway, i=
t
> > will be used as a bar to sit at and eat or drink while in the
> > kitchen. =A0Thus there will be wet glasses and such on it. =A0I bought
> > some bush oil (to pop the grain) and some "rockhard table top finish"
> > at Woodcraft, but I don't really like the looks of it when I applied
> > it to some scrap. =A0It just came out too glossy and commercial looking=
,
> > also darkened it too much. =A0I then tried just using boiled linseed oi=
l
> > on another sample and liked the shade it produced better. =A0So my
> > question is can I then just apply some MinWax over the BLO and still
> > get enough protection? =A0I think I'll start with a satin and move to
> > gloss if it doesn't look right.
>
> > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. Have you a better recommendation as far
as manufacturer? Your advice sounds good though. Do you think it's
a good idea to apply it over the BLO? There is a lot of figure in
these boards and I really want to maximize it.

-Jim

.
Like Steve says, some folks have a bias against MinWax products but I
find them mostly as good as any others (I like Microsoft too) and I
have used their poly and it works well.

Yes, adding some depth and color with BLO is a great idea. Thin it a
bit with mineral spirits to help it penetrate and dry a little faster
and let it dry a few days before you overcoat with poly.

Steve was describing a sort of hybrid wiping poly approach. In fact,
most of the poly work I do, I do a wiping application. Thin the poly
by 50% or more with mineral spirits. Yes, the can may say don't thin
more than 10 or 20% but you can ignore that. Flood the surface with a
brush then immediately wipe it down with a saturated rag. Not so
saturated that it won't pickup the extra but not so dry that it
totally removes the material. Leave a super fine and smmoth suface
film using really precise strokes with a smooth face on the rag.

Don't touch it after you get it wiped down. Let dry 12-24 hours. On
pourus woods the first coat or two will almost dissapear. Then it will
start to build. Hand scuff and flatten after about 2 or 3 coats with
320 or 400 sand paper.. Then another coat or two or more (with satin
in your case) to you liking depending on how much build up you want.
Be careful in corners, molding seams, etc where you can get puddling
and over build.

Wait a week, then rub out with steel wool and wax.



On Jan 21, 2:02=A0pm, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 21, 12:37=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > MinWax what?
>
> > I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the intended
> > use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
> > shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly that
> > is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and don't
> > do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multiple
> > coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a final
> > coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effect is
> > created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
> > multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
>
> > On Jan 21, 7:09=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > I have just finished making a counter top out of birds eye maple with
> > > 2 1/4" strips of paduk. =A0It is about 2 x 6 feet in size. =A0Anyway,=
it
> > > will be used as a bar to sit at and eat or drink while in the
> > > kitchen. =A0Thus there will be wet glasses and such on it. =A0I bough=
t
> > > some bush oil (to pop the grain) and some "rockhard table top finish"
> > > at Woodcraft, but I don't really like the looks of it when I applied
> > > it to some scrap. =A0It just came out too glossy and commercial looki=
ng,
> > > also darkened it too much. =A0I then tried just using boiled linseed =
oil
> > > on another sample and liked the shade it produced better. =A0So my
> > > question is can I then just apply some MinWax over the BLO and still
> > > get enough protection? =A0I think I'll start with a satin and move to
> > > gloss if it doesn't look right.
>
> > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. =A0Have you a better recommendation as far
> as manufacturer? =A0 Your advice sounds good though. =A0Do you think it's
> a good idea to apply it over the BLO? =A0There is a lot of figure in
> these boards and I really want to maximize it.
>
> -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

jtpr wrote:
> On Jan 21, 12:37 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> MinWax what?
>>
>> I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the intended
>> use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
>> shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly that
>> is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and don't
>> do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multiple
>> coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a final
>> coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effect is
>> created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
>> multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
>>
>
> Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. Have you a better recommendation as far
> as manufacturer? Your advice sounds good though. Do you think it's
> a good idea to apply it over the BLO? There is a lot of figure in
> these boards and I really want to maximize it.
>
> -Jim

Using Minwax Poly can catch you a lot of flack in some circles, but in
this case I think it's the right thing to use (and I agree with pretty
much everything Mr. Anonymous from SonomaProducts.com said). I used it
on our kitchen table (red oak, two coats clear, one coat satin), and it
turned out beautifully and has taken one HELL of a lot of abuse with
virtually no problems whatsoever. For each coat I basically flooded it
on the surface rather rapidly, with no real regard for brushing it out
smoothly, then wiped it down with a dry blue shop towel to get full
coverage, soaking up the excess and leveling it out, then as it began to
tack I followed that with another wipedown using a blue shop towel
soaked in mineral spirits, leaving the entire surface glossy wet. That
last step levels out the poly to a glassy smooth finish that looks like
it was sprayed on. Same process for all three coats, but on the final
coat when the poly was *almost* dry to the touch, I gave it a final
rubdown with a dry blue shop towel. If you catch it at just the right
time (you don't want the finish tacky or it will grab the cloth and
cause a mess) you can rub it out as smooth as a baby's bottom. My
method might sound kinda wacky to some, but I've done it many times and
hey, it works. :-)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Jan 22, 12:48=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> .
> Like Steve says, some folks have a bias against MinWax products but I
> find them mostly as good as any others (I like Microsoft too) and I
> have used their poly and it works well.
>
> Yes, adding some depth and color with BLO is a great idea. Thin it a
> bit with mineral spirits to help it penetrate and dry a little faster
> and let it dry a few days before you overcoat with poly.
>
> Steve was describing a sort of hybrid wiping poly approach. In fact,
> most of the poly work I do, I do a wiping application. Thin the poly
> by 50% or more with mineral spirits. Yes, the can may say don't thin
> more than 10 or 20% but you can ignore that. Flood the surface with a
> brush then immediately wipe it down with a saturated rag. Not so
> saturated that it won't pickup the extra but not so dry that it
> totally removes the material. Leave a super fine and smmoth suface
> film using really precise strokes with a smooth face on the rag.
>
> Don't touch it after you get it wiped down. Let dry 12-24 hours. On
> pourus woods the first coat or two will almost dissapear. Then it will
> start to build. Hand scuff and flatten after about 2 or 3 coats with
> 320 or 400 sand paper.. Then another coat or two or more (with satin
> in your case) to you liking depending on how much build up you want.
> Be careful in corners, molding seams, etc where you can get puddling
> and over build.
>
> Wait a week, then rub out with steel wool and wax.
>
> On Jan 21, 2:02=A0pm, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Jan 21, 12:37=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > MinWax what?
>
> > > I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the intended
> > > use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
> > > shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly tha=
t
> > > is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and don'=
t
> > > do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multiple
> > > coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a final
> > > coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effect is
> > > created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
> > > multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
>
> > > On Jan 21, 7:09=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > I have just finished making a counter top out of birds eye maple wi=
th
> > > > 2 1/4" strips of paduk. =A0It is about 2 x 6 feet in size. =A0Anywa=
y, it
> > > > will be used as a bar to sit at and eat or drink while in the
> > > > kitchen. =A0Thus there will be wet glasses and such on it. =A0I bou=
ght
> > > > some bush oil (to pop the grain) and some "rockhard table top finis=
h"
> > > > at Woodcraft, but I don't really like the looks of it when I applie=
d
> > > > it to some scrap. =A0It just came out too glossy and commercial loo=
king,
> > > > also darkened it too much. =A0I then tried just using boiled linsee=
d oil
> > > > on another sample and liked the shade it produced better. =A0So my
> > > > question is can I then just apply some MinWax over the BLO and stil=
l
> > > > get enough protection? =A0I think I'll start with a satin and move =
to
> > > > gloss if it doesn't look right.
>
> > > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. =A0Have you a better recommendation as far
> > as manufacturer? =A0 Your advice sounds good though. =A0Do you think it=
's
> > a good idea to apply it over the BLO? =A0There is a lot of figure in
> > these boards and I really want to maximize it.
>
> > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thank you. But I have been led to believe that water based poly will
preserve the color better then oil. Assuming that is true, what I'm
trying to find out is can I apply this safely over BLO? If I have
been led to believe the color part erroneously, please let me know.

-Jim

MinWax what?

I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the intended
use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly that
is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and don't
do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multiple
coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a final
coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effect is
created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.


On Jan 21, 7:09=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have just finished making a counter top out of birds eye maple with
> 2 1/4" strips of paduk. =A0It is about 2 x 6 feet in size. =A0Anyway, it
> will be used as a bar to sit at and eat or drink while in the
> kitchen. =A0Thus there will be wet glasses and such on it. =A0I bought
> some bush oil (to pop the grain) and some "rockhard table top finish"
> at Woodcraft, but I don't really like the looks of it when I applied
> it to some scrap. =A0It just came out too glossy and commercial looking,
> also darkened it too much. =A0I then tried just using boiled linseed oil
> on another sample and liked the shade it produced better. =A0So my
> question is can I then just apply some MinWax over the BLO and still
> get enough protection? =A0I think I'll start with a satin and move to
> gloss if it doesn't look right.
>
> -Jim

On Jan 22, 3:19=A0pm, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jan 22, 2:23=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Oops, my bad. I forgot you were going with water based for the
> > clarity.
>
> > I don't have experience with WB Poly over BLO. It seems that most
> > folks suggest either a shellac coat in between or make sure the BLO
> > dries at least a week.
>
> > I think some full scale testing is required here. Sorry for the
> > primrose path, I forgot you were doing WB.
>
> > On Jan 22, 10:21=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > On Jan 22, 12:48=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > .
> > > > Like Steve says, some folks have a bias against MinWax products but=
I
> > > > find them mostly as good as any others (I like Microsoft too) and I
> > > > have used their poly and it works well.
>
> > > > Yes, adding some depth and color with BLO is a great idea. Thin it =
a
> > > > bit with mineral spirits to help it penetrate and dry a little fast=
er
> > > > and let it dry a few days before you overcoat with poly.
>
> > > > Steve was describing a sort of hybrid wiping poly approach. In fact=
,
> > > > most of the poly work I do, I do a wiping application. Thin the pol=
y
> > > > by 50% or more with mineral spirits. Yes, the can may say don't thi=
n
> > > > more than 10 or 20% but you can ignore that. Flood the surface with=
a
> > > > brush then immediately wipe it down with a saturated rag. Not so
> > > > saturated that it won't pickup the extra but not so dry that it
> > > > totally removes the material. Leave a super fine and smmoth suface
> > > > film using really precise strokes with a smooth face on the rag.
>
> > > > Don't touch it after you get it wiped down. Let dry 12-24 hours. On
> > > > pourus woods the first coat or two will almost dissapear. Then it w=
ill
> > > > start to build. Hand scuff and flatten after about 2 or 3 coats wit=
h
> > > > 320 or 400 sand paper.. Then another coat or two or more (with sati=
n
> > > > in your case) to you liking depending on how much build up you want=
.
> > > > Be careful in corners, molding seams, etc where you can get puddlin=
g
> > > > and over build.
>
> > > > Wait a week, then rub out with steel wool and wax.
>
> > > > On Jan 21, 2:02=A0pm, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > > On Jan 21, 12:37=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wr=
ote:
>
> > > > > > MinWax what?
>
> > > > > > I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the int=
ended
> > > > > > use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
> > > > > > shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with po=
ly that
> > > > > > is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish an=
d don't
> > > > > > do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want mult=
iple
> > > > > > coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a fi=
nal
> > > > > > coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss eff=
ect is
> > > > > > created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly =
so
> > > > > > multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
>
> > > > > > On Jan 21, 7:09=A0am, jtpr <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > > > > I have just finished making a counter top out of birds eye ma=
ple with
> > > > > > > 2 1/4" strips of paduk. =A0It is about 2 x 6 feet in size. =
=A0Anyway, it
> > > > > > > will be used as a bar to sit at and eat or drink while in the
> > > > > > > kitchen. =A0Thus there will be wet glasses and such on it. =
=A0I bought
> > > > > > > some bush oil (to pop the grain) and some "rockhard table top=
finish"
> > > > > > > at Woodcraft, but I don't really like the looks of it when I =
applied
> > > > > > > it to some scrap. =A0It just came out too glossy and commerci=
al looking,
> > > > > > > also darkened it too much. =A0I then tried just using boiled =
linseed oil
> > > > > > > on another sample and liked the shade it produced better. =A0=
So my
> > > > > > > question is can I then just apply some MinWax over the BLO an=
d still
> > > > > > > get enough protection? =A0I think I'll start with a satin and=
move to
> > > > > > > gloss if it doesn't look right.
>
> > > > > > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. =A0Have you a better recommendation a=
s far
> > > > > as manufacturer? =A0 Your advice sounds good though. =A0Do you th=
ink it's
> > > > > a good idea to apply it over the BLO? =A0There is a lot of figure=
in
> > > > > these boards and I really want to maximize it.
>
> > > > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > Thank you. =A0But I have been led to believe that water based poly wi=
ll
> > > preserve the color better then oil. =A0Assuming that is true, what I'=
m
> > > trying to find out is can I apply this safely over BLO? =A0If I have
> > > been led to believe the color part erroneously, please let me know.
>
> > > -Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> No harm. =A0I just didn't like amber shade that the bush oil / rockhard
> produced. =A0It made it look to "plasticy". =A0I want it to have a sheen,
> but not look commercial. =A0Your advice will be noted though for other
> projects..
>
> Thanks,
> Jim- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thanks for all the advice. This is how it turned out...

http://picasaweb.google.com/jtpryan/BarTop?feat=3Ddirectlink

-Jim

On Jan 21, 6:08=A0pm, Steve Turner <[email protected]> wrote:
> jtpr wrote:
> > On Jan 21, 12:37 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> MinWax what?
>
> >> I think you do need a ployurethane finish to hold up to the intended
> >> use. You can get water based crystal clear poly so coloration
> >> shouldn't be an issue. You can poilsh out the gloss but with poly that
> >> is really hard to do so just use a satin or semigloss finish and don't
> >> do to many coats. For the best grain clarity when you want multiple
> >> coats the suggestion is to do many coats of gloss and then a final
> >> coat or two of satin or semi gloss. The satin or semi gloss effect is
> >> created by adding a white paint like pigment to the clear poly so
> >> multiple coats can start to obscure the grain.
>
> > Sorry, I meant MinWax Poly. =A0Have you a better recommendation as far
> > as manufacturer? =A0 Your advice sounds good though. =A0Do you think it=
's
> > a good idea to apply it over the BLO? =A0There is a lot of figure in
> > these boards and I really want to maximize it.
>
> > -Jim
>
> Using Minwax Poly can catch you a lot of flack in some circles, but in
> this case I think it's the right thing to use (and I agree with pretty
> much everything Mr. Anonymous from SonomaProducts.com said). =A0I used it
> on our kitchen table (red oak, two coats clear, one coat satin), and it
> turned out beautifully and has taken one HELL of a lot of abuse with
> virtually no problems whatsoever. =A0For each coat I basically flooded it
> on the surface rather rapidly, with no real regard for brushing it out
> smoothly, then wiped it down with a dry blue shop towel to get full
> coverage, soaking up the excess and leveling it out, then as it began to
> tack I followed that with another wipedown using a blue shop towel
> soaked in mineral spirits, leaving the entire surface glossy wet. =A0That
> last step levels out the poly to a glassy smooth finish that looks like
> it was sprayed on. =A0Same process for all three coats, but on the final
> coat when the poly was *almost* dry to the touch, I gave it a final
> rubdown with a dry blue shop towel. =A0If you catch it at just the right
> time (you don't want the finish tacky or it will grab the cloth and
> cause a mess) you can rub it out as smooth as a baby's bottom. =A0My
> method might sound kinda wacky to some, but I've done it many times and
> hey, it works. =A0:-)
>
> --
> See Nad. =A0See Nad go. =A0Go Nad!
> To reply, eat the taco.http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/- Hide quote=
d text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I wanted to put a link to some pics as it might help illustrate what
I'm talking about:

http://picasaweb.google.com/jtpryan/BarTop?feat=3Ddirectlink

In the two pics of the scrap, the one on the right where they are
standing on end is more accurate to color. The one on the left is
Bush Oil and Rockhard. The one on the right is just BLO. I prefer
the color of the one on the right, this is what I would like to
achieve, but with a poly or protective coat on it. The other pics are
the place where it will go.

Thanks,

Jim