OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
could make an accurate guess and be safe.
For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you
use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
--
Jon Endres, PE
Reply To: wmengineer (at) adelphia (dot) net
"Rick Chamberlain" wrote in message
> Actually, Swingman, a wise old wRECk veteran recommended to me that you
> should allow for 1 1/16" total for the slides (17/32" per slide instead
> of 1/2"). That gives you 1/32" per side to adjust the slide or add
> shims should the carcase be off a little. I tried it, it works, and
> I'll never go back. :-)
Actually, Rick, I've heard that before, but have not needed to practice it.
providing you make your drawers accurately, a 1/32nd on either side is not
usually a problem as there is at least that much slop on most slides on each
side.
AAMOF, it might be just my luck, but I've yet to have to add shims by going
by what the specs on the drawer slide called for. More often, I've had to
shave a bit off the secondary wood, which would have made made matters worse
adding the 1/16th.
Just my experience. ;>)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Larry Jaques wrote:
> > >I downloaded the Accuride file 3832sc_std.zip.php (WTF?),
> > >viewed the raw header (PK for Zip file), stripped the .php
> > >off the end, and tried to get SoftCad3D, TurboCad Lite,
> > >PTC Pro/Desktop, and Intellicad2000 (all 4 freebies) to
> > >read it. None could. Sigh...
> >
> >
> > And God bless Al Gore for passing the legislation that
> > enabled Auto Desk to be invented.
> >
> > UA100
>
> Grrrrr.
>
> Take the very *worst* customer support and service you could possibly find
> in the computer software industry, add twice the bugs normally found in a
> Windoze product, mix in an "upgrade or die" policy along with one of the
> most aggressive anti-piracy campaigns known to man, a pricing structure
> GUARANTEED to encourage software piracy, a product that the industry is
> virtually crippled without (can you say monopoly?), and you have Autodesk.
>
> I use it every day, and my hatred of it grows with each click of the mouse,
> each press of a key, each Fatal Error, and each lost file.
>
> Jon E
>
>
>
Would Pro-E (PTC's Pro-Engineer) meet your needs? I suspect it is
considerably more expensive than AutoCad, but it might be less
frustrating.
"Jon Endres, PE" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
> could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
> For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
> drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
> kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you
> use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
> ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
>
> --
> Jon Endres, PE
> Reply To: wmengineer (at) adelphia (dot) net
>
>
I never built a kitchen cabinet, but I just finished a router table. The inside depth is 20.25 with 20" deep drawers and I bought
and installed 20" full extension slides. I assume that the proper length is approximately equal to the depth of the drawer.
When I get my digital camera back (SWMBO lent it to a friend) I will post some pics.
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> "Jon Endres, PE" wrote in message
> > OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
> > could make an accurate guess and be safe.
> >
> > For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
> > drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
> > kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet,
> you
> > use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
> > ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too
> long?
>
> The depth of your cabinet is the overriding consideration. You can put a
> longer, or shorter, slide on a drawer and it will work fine as long as the
> difference is not too great, but you are definitely limited by the cabinet
> depth, (less the face frame if you use them), for the slide length. ;>)
>
> I used 22" slides for all my 24" deep cabinets.
>
> Face frame cabinets with side mount slides? If so, take note of the
> following, if not disregard.
>
> Design the cabinets so that there is 1/2" between the cabinet sides and the
> sides of drawer opening as defined by the edge of the face frame.
>
> Then mount your drawer slides on a 1/2" thick secondary material (poplar
> works well), then attach that assembly to the cabinet sides, using precut
> spacers for vertical accuracy. This will insure that your drawer slides are
> flush with the drawer opening.
>
> Additionally, with most side mount drawer slides, you design your drawers
> exactly 1" narrower than the drawer opening, but be sure to check on this
> clearance dimension for your particular slides _before_ you make your
> drawers.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 1/16/04
>
>
Sounds like a good approach.
I did just as you suggested on a Secretary Desk I recently completed. I had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the
cabinet side and used 3/4" secondary material to mount the slides on.
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
Larry,
I downloaded their DXF's in the past without any problem and just did so. Did you click on the link and fill out the form? Perhaps
you just downloaded the form's php code.
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:23:05 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
> brought forth from the murky depths:
>
> >Tom Watson wrote:
> >>(It would be a nice idea if slide manufacturers provided a
> >>download of such a template).
> >
> >Accuride does but they have to be scaled. Some people
> >haven't caught on yet to AutoCAD and drawing full size in
> >model space. Anyway, I 'specially love the flipper door
> >hardware templates. Makes it look like you spent hours
> >drawing the thing.
> >
> >It's Hafele that I wish had downloadable dxf's.
>
> I downloaded the Accuride file 3832sc_std.zip.php (WTF?),
> viewed the raw header (PK for Zip file), stripped the .php
> off the end, and tried to get SoftCad3D, TurboCad Lite,
> PTC Pro/Desktop, and Intellicad2000 (all 4 freebies) to
> read it. None could. Sigh...
>
> No feedback has come from Accuride yet, but I'm willing to
> bet that their draftsmen use the most current copy of AutoCad
> and output files readable only to that. I wish more web folks
> knew to use copies of programs 1 or 2 versions back (or to save
> as a more generic version, readable to older programs) so the
> rest of the world could view their work. Sigh #2...
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> "Let's sing praise to Aphrodite || www.diversify.com
> She may seem a little flighty, || Full Service Websites
> but she wears a green gauze nighty, || PHP Applications
> And she's good enough for me." || SQL Database Development
Where I have trouble is the where to mount the slides so when I go to
install the drawer it's not to high or to low. I don't do a lot of them
because of that, I get agravated having to tweak them up or down. Any tips
on getting this part accurate?
Thanks
--
Mike S.
[email protected]
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 12:46:08 -0700, Bridger <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:39:37 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
>>could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>>
>>For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
>>drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
>>kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you
>>use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
>>ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
>
>
>depends on how your cabinet is constructed. the slide length number is
>the length of the slide, not the cabinet. I generally build 'em to
>loose 1" at the back (1/4" nailer + 1/4" panel)
oops. that should have been 3/4" nailer + 1/4" back panel.
sorry about that. carry on now....
>and 3/4" at the front
>(face frame) which would give 22-1/4" inside of a 24" cabinet. in that
>case I'd build 22" drawers and use 22" slides.
>
>it's not uncommon for the cabinets to be some size other than 24"
>though. get a tape measure and see what size the inside of your
>cabinets really are....
> Bridger
"Jon Endres, PE" wrote:
> OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
> could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
> For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
> drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
> kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you
> use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
> ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
>
> --
> Jon Endres, PE
> Reply To: wmengineer (at) adelphia (dot) net
I'm in the process of replacing the drawers in my kitchen cabinets. My
cabinets are face frame construction and are 24" deep. I bought the Accuride
(Series 3832) 22" slides. For face frame construction Accuride's use a "Face
Frame Kit" which consists for clip on mounting brackets for the front and back
of each slide. The rear bracket is length adjustable from approx. 0"- 2".
See:
http://www.accuride.com/products/woodworking/details.php?p=3832sc&c=mediumduty_wa
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Tom Watson wrote:
> I've always had good luck with the Accurides and the 3832's were my
> standard series. You can make a jig by printing out a full sized
> template in a CAD program. (It would be a nice idea if slide
> manufacturers provided a download of such a template).
It looks like Accuride took your suggestion to heart. Check:
http://www.accuride.com/products/woodworking/details.php?p=3832sc&c=mediumduty_wa
They have a link to a "CAD drawing (.dfx)" file
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
My problem is that I have AutoCad, TurboCad and a few others but I can
use AutoDesk in my sleep. The learning curve is the obstacle to change.
RB
Jon Endres, PE wrote:
> "Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>>>I downloaded the Accuride file 3832sc_std.zip.php (WTF?),
>>>viewed the raw header (PK for Zip file), stripped the .php
>>>off the end, and tried to get SoftCad3D, TurboCad Lite,
>>>PTC Pro/Desktop, and Intellicad2000 (all 4 freebies) to
>>>read it. None could. Sigh...
>>
>>
>>And God bless Al Gore for passing the legislation that
>>enabled Auto Desk to be invented.
>>
>>UA100
>
>
> Grrrrr.
>
> Take the very *worst* customer support and service you could possibly find
> in the computer software industry, add twice the bugs normally found in a
> Windoze product, mix in an "upgrade or die" policy along with one of the
> most aggressive anti-piracy campaigns known to man, a pricing structure
> GUARANTEED to encourage software piracy, a product that the industry is
> virtually crippled without (can you say monopoly?), and you have Autodesk.
>
> I use it every day, and my hatred of it grows with each click of the mouse,
> each press of a key, each Fatal Error, and each lost file.
>
> Jon E
>
>
I used 40, Accuride 2832, 22" full extension slides for the kitchen.
Wouldn't use any others.
RB
Jon Endres, PE wrote:
> OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
> could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
> For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
> drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
> kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you
> use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
> ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
>
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:39:37 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
>could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
>For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
>drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
>kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you
>use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
>ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
Jon:
I liked to spec 22" slides with a 1" overtravel. If you don't go for
the overtravel slide, you really don't have full access to the drawer
box.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
that's the way I do it too. 'course I'm not a woodworking veteran, but
it works for me. shooting for a drawer 1" narrower than the opening
when you are using prefinished baltic birch is cutting it too close. I
go shoot for 1-1/32 narrower so that I don't' have to shave anything
down. The KV slides I use barely have 1/16" leeway.
dave
Rick Chamberlain wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
>>Design the cabinets so that there is 1/2" between the cabinet sides and the
>>sides of drawer opening as defined by the edge of the face frame.
>>
>>Then mount your drawer slides on a 1/2" thick secondary material (poplar
>>works well), then attach that assembly to the cabinet sides, using precut
>>spacers for vertical accuracy. This will insure that your drawer slides are
>>flush with the drawer opening.
>
>
> Actually, Swingman, a wise old wRECk veteran recommended to me that you
> should allow for 1 1/16" total for the slides (17/32" per slide instead
> of 1/2"). That gives you 1/32" per side to adjust the slide or add
> shims should the carcase be off a little. I tried it, it works, and
> I'll never go back. :-)
>
> Thanks Keeter...
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 23:37:18 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>While I may not go the Grizzly approach another poster mentioned, I'll most
>likely get my slides either from eBay or from Rockler, and get Rockler's
>JIG-IT guide. I figure, for a whole kitchen (almost 50 feet of base
>cabinets, mostly drawers), a few extra bucks on materials and tools offsets
>the cost of buying the cabinets premade.
>
>FWIW, I am building my cabinets modular-style, 30" and 24" widths, I have an
>open plan that doesn't require odd sizes. They will all be face-frame,
>inset doors and drawers, modified shaker-style.
Jon:
I've always had good luck with the Accurides and the 3832's were my
standard series. You can make a jig by printing out a full sized
template in a CAD program. (It would be a nice idea if slide
manufacturers provided a download of such a template).
You will need to increase the size of your module at the sink base
to something more in line with the 36" standard, as 30" is too skimpy
for standard sinks.
I've had the best luck by packing out the insides of the cabinet to
the inside edge of the face frame, or (preferably), running the inside
edge of the face frame in the same plane as the inside edge of the
box. This, of course, means an applied drawer front.
This way you have an overhang of the face frame, which can be useful
as a scribe in the corners. The appearance, from the front elevation
is indistingusihable from an overhanging face frame and it saves you a
lot of time. If you are biscuiting on the frame, you simply reference
from the inside edge, rather than the outside.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 02:26:05 GMT, "Mike S." <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Where I have trouble is the where to mount the slides so when I go to
>install the drawer it's not to high or to low. I don't do a lot of them
>because of that, I get agravated having to tweak them up or down. Any tips
>on getting this part accurate?
>Thanks
When I only have to do a couple I simply mark out the centerlines and
match them up.
When I have to do something like an entire kitchen I cut out pieces of
ply or MDF to represent the spacing of the base unit, the middle
drawer and the top, or whatever configuration that you are using.
Sometimes you have a bunch of base units with doors on the bottom and
a drawer on the top. The template works well for this. Since I
standardized my drawer units, I had templates for three to six drawer
vertical layouts as well as the usual door/drawer setup. The nice
thing about this is that it works every time. A typical kitchen only
has about three configurations for base units.
This was before I switched to the 32mm system, where the holes are
laid out by the machinery that you use and the heights are adjustable
within the 32mm module, making vertical layout a snap.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
I'm working on 24" base cabinets right now (for the shop, not kitchen). I
chose to use 22" slides, but I will still build the drawers as long as I
can, probably about 23". So the full extension slides will actually not
quite expose all of the drawer. Doesn't bother me at all.
The answer to your question would also depend on whether you have face
frames or frameless cabinets. You cannot get a 24" slide into a face frame
carcase. In fact, my 24" frameless cabinets are only 23-3/4" deep.
BTW, I bought my slides from Grizzly. They have a ShopFox line of full
extension, 100 lb capacity, ball bearing, for ~$10 a pair. They seem
excellent so far.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H2915
--
********
Bill Pounds
http://www.bill.pounds.net/woodshop
"Jon Endres, PE" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
> could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
> For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
> drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
> kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet,
you
> use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
> ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too
long?
>
> --
> Jon Endres, PE
> Reply To: wmengineer (at) adelphia (dot) net
>
>
"Jon Endres, PE" wrote in message
> OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
> could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
> For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
> drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
> kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet,
you
> use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
> ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too
long?
The depth of your cabinet is the overriding consideration. You can put a
longer, or shorter, slide on a drawer and it will work fine as long as the
difference is not too great, but you are definitely limited by the cabinet
depth, (less the face frame if you use them), for the slide length. ;>)
I used 22" slides for all my 24" deep cabinets.
Face frame cabinets with side mount slides? If so, take note of the
following, if not disregard.
Design the cabinets so that there is 1/2" between the cabinet sides and the
sides of drawer opening as defined by the edge of the face frame.
Then mount your drawer slides on a 1/2" thick secondary material (poplar
works well), then attach that assembly to the cabinet sides, using precut
spacers for vertical accuracy. This will insure that your drawer slides are
flush with the drawer opening.
Additionally, with most side mount drawer slides, you design your drawers
exactly 1" narrower than the drawer opening, but be sure to check on this
clearance dimension for your particular slides _before_ you make your
drawers.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> Design the cabinets so that there is 1/2" between the cabinet sides and the
> sides of drawer opening as defined by the edge of the face frame.
>
> Then mount your drawer slides on a 1/2" thick secondary material (poplar
> works well), then attach that assembly to the cabinet sides, using precut
> spacers for vertical accuracy. This will insure that your drawer slides are
> flush with the drawer opening.
Actually, Swingman, a wise old wRECk veteran recommended to me that you
should allow for 1 1/16" total for the slides (17/32" per slide instead
of 1/2"). That gives you 1/32" per side to adjust the slide or add
shims should the carcase be off a little. I tried it, it works, and
I'll never go back. :-)
Thanks Keeter...
--
Regards,
Rick
(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > "Al Reid" wrote in message
> >
> > > Sounds like a good approach.
> > >
> > > I did just as you suggested on a Secretary Desk I recently completed. I
> > had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the
> > > cabinet side and used 3/4" secondary material to mount the slides on.
> >
> > That works ... as you well know, prior planning is the key to having an
> > _easy_ time of mounting drawers in kitchen cabinets ... and by the time
> you
> > get to that stage, EASY is what you're looking for. :)
> >
> > Doing 19 drawers in my own kitchen cabinets, and many more besides since
> > then, I made a little jig for mounting the drawer slides on the secondary
> > material ... it comes in handy for consistent placement of the drawer
> slide
> > with regard to the face frame, and for insuring they are square ... both
> > critical components of EASY installation.
> >
> > I will be glad to post a picture to ABPW if Jon requests it.
>
> Yes, I'd like to see it.
>
> While I may not go the Grizzly approach another poster mentioned, I'll most
> likely get my slides either from eBay or from Rockler, and get Rockler's
> JIG-IT guide. I figure, for a whole kitchen (almost 50 feet of base
> cabinets, mostly drawers), a few extra bucks on materials and tools offsets
> the cost of buying the cabinets premade.
>
> FWIW, I am building my cabinets modular-style, 30" and 24" widths, I have an
> open plan that doesn't require odd sizes. They will all be face-frame,
> inset doors and drawers, modified shaker-style.
>
> Thanks for all the replies.
Jon,
Another option is GlideRite. They're an import slide like Grizzly, but
quite inexpensive and really quite good for the money.
www.gliderite.com
--
Regards,
Rick
(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Al Reid" wrote in message
>
> > Sounds like a good approach.
> >
> > I did just as you suggested on a Secretary Desk I recently completed. I
> had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the
> > cabinet side and used 3/4" secondary material to mount the slides on.
>
> That works ... as you well know, prior planning is the key to having an
> _easy_ time of mounting drawers in kitchen cabinets ... and by the time
you
> get to that stage, EASY is what you're looking for. :)
>
> Doing 19 drawers in my own kitchen cabinets, and many more besides since
> then, I made a little jig for mounting the drawer slides on the secondary
> material ... it comes in handy for consistent placement of the drawer
slide
> with regard to the face frame, and for insuring they are square ... both
> critical components of EASY installation.
>
> I will be glad to post a picture to ABPW if Jon requests it.
Yes, I'd like to see it.
While I may not go the Grizzly approach another poster mentioned, I'll most
likely get my slides either from eBay or from Rockler, and get Rockler's
JIG-IT guide. I figure, for a whole kitchen (almost 50 feet of base
cabinets, mostly drawers), a few extra bucks on materials and tools offsets
the cost of buying the cabinets premade.
FWIW, I am building my cabinets modular-style, 30" and 24" widths, I have an
open plan that doesn't require odd sizes. They will all be face-frame,
inset doors and drawers, modified shaker-style.
Thanks for all the replies.
Jon
I for one, would love to see it (hanging drawers isn't second nature yet for
me).
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Al Reid" wrote in message
>
> > Sounds like a good approach.
> >
> > I did just as you suggested on a Secretary Desk I recently completed. I
> had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the
> > cabinet side and used 3/4" secondary material to mount the slides on.
>
> That works ... as you well know, prior planning is the key to having an
> _easy_ time of mounting drawers in kitchen cabinets ... and by the time
you
> get to that stage, EASY is what you're looking for. :)
>
> Doing 19 drawers in my own kitchen cabinets, and many more besides since
> then, I made a little jig for mounting the drawer slides on the secondary
> material ... it comes in handy for consistent placement of the drawer
slide
> with regard to the face frame, and for insuring they are square ... both
> critical components of EASY installation.
>
> I will be glad to post a picture to ABPW if Jon requests it.
>
> --
> www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 1/16/04
>
>
"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
> that's the way I do it too. 'course I'm not a woodworking veteran, but
> it works for me. shooting for a drawer 1" narrower than the opening
> when you are using prefinished baltic birch is cutting it too close. I
> go shoot for 1-1/32 narrower so that I don't' have to shave anything
> down. The KV slides I use barely have 1/16" leeway.
It's not a bad idea if you are NOT using face frame construction, to add the
1/16th and make your drawer slightly narrower than required.
However, on face frame cabinets, which is what I posted about, it is much
easier to me to 'shave' than to 'shim' ... particularly in 1/32" increments.
Therefore, I would prefer to go with the drawer slide manufacturer's
recommendation, and NOT make the drawer narrower.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
24" is the outside dimension of the cabinet; inside is 24" minus back
thickness. Use next shorter glide. Glides come in 2" increments; so use
the 22" glide in this case.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Recent Project Page: http://www.calanb.com/recent.html
Workbench project: http://www.calanb.com/wbench.html
"Jon Endres, PE" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
> could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
> For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
> drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
> kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet,
you
> use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
> ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too
long?
>
> --
> Jon Endres, PE
> Reply To: wmengineer (at) adelphia (dot) net
>
>
Jon,
Please rethink the 30" and 24" sizes. Your sink base really needs to be at
least 36" in order to get a sink in, especially if it is stainless with the
bottom clips. The "typical" sink is 32-33" wide. Also, if you make some
48" cabinets, you will eliminate two side pieces worth of material and labor
to make the cabinet (you can make the face frame for either three or four
doors).
Considering the size of modern refrigerators, you need at least 36" (should
be 40") of wall space , and the cabinet above if that is your plan.
--
Alan Bierbaum
Web Site: http://www.calanb.com
Recent Project Page: http://www.calanb.com/recent.html
Workbench project: http://www.calanb.com/wbench.html
"Jon Endres, PE" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
>
> FWIW, I am building my cabinets modular-style, 30" and 24" widths, I have
an
> open plan that doesn't require odd sizes. They will all be face-frame,
> inset doors and drawers, modified shaker-style.
>
> Thanks for all the replies.
>
> Jon
>
>
Hi Jon,
Since you index the install of the slide of the drawer opening, the only
thing you have to ensure is that the slide will fit from the front of the
opening backward (i.e. you can live with a short slide, but not a slide that
is too long).
I usually leave some room for error and get a slide that is one size shorter
than the nominal length of the drawer. So, for your situation I would
suggest the 22" drawer slide. You don't want to overdo it (i.e. get a 16"
drawer slide for a 24" drawer), as this is the entire support system for the
drawer. A few inches of unsupported drawer won't be a big deal.
Mike
"Jon Endres, PE" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news:[email protected]...
> OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
> could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
> For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
> drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
> kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet,
you
> use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
> ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too
long?
>
> --
> Jon Endres, PE
> Reply To: wmengineer (at) adelphia (dot) net
>
>
Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
Tom,
Nothing wrong with 3832's and they were my slide of choice for years.
However now the Blum Tandem full extension is my stock slide. True,
they are quite a bit more expensive but the expensive is not a large
part of the job. Considering the life of the cabinets I believe the
upgrade is well worth considering.
And no jig needed
Mike
>
> Jon:
>
> I've always had good luck with the Accurides and the 3832's were my
> standard series. You can make a jig by printing out a full sized
> template in a CAD program. (It would be a nice idea if slide
> manufacturers provided a download of such a template).
>
> You will need to increase the size of your module at the sink base
> to something more in line with the 36" standard, as 30" is too skimpy
> for standard sinks.
>
> I've had the best luck by packing out the insides of the cabinet to
> the inside edge of the face frame, or (preferably), running the inside
> edge of the face frame in the same plane as the inside edge of the
> box. This, of course, means an applied drawer front.
>
> This way you have an overhang of the face frame, which can be useful
> as a scribe in the corners. The appearance, from the front elevation
> is indistingusihable from an overhanging face frame and it saves you a
> lot of time. If you are biscuiting on the frame, you simply reference
> from the inside edge, rather than the outside.
>
>
> Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
> Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
> Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
"Al Reid" wrote in message
> Sounds like a good approach.
>
> I did just as you suggested on a Secretary Desk I recently completed. I
had 3/4" instead of 1/2" between the drawer opening and the
> cabinet side and used 3/4" secondary material to mount the slides on.
That works ... as you well know, prior planning is the key to having an
_easy_ time of mounting drawers in kitchen cabinets ... and by the time you
get to that stage, EASY is what you're looking for. :)
Doing 19 drawers in my own kitchen cabinets, and many more besides since
then, I made a little jig for mounting the drawer slides on the secondary
material ... it comes in handy for consistent placement of the drawer slide
with regard to the face frame, and for insuring they are square ... both
critical components of EASY installation.
I will be glad to post a picture to ABPW if Jon requests it.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 03:11:48 GMT, Nova <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>It looks like Accuride took your suggestion to heart. Check:
>
> http://www.accuride.com/products/woodworking/details.php?p=3832sc&c=mediumduty_wa
>
>They have a link to a "CAD drawing (.dfx)" file
Damn, that was fast!
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:23:05 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>Tom Watson wrote:
>>(It would be a nice idea if slide manufacturers provided a
>>download of such a template).
>
>Accuride does but they have to be scaled. Some people
>haven't caught on yet to AutoCAD and drawing full size in
>model space. Anyway, I 'specially love the flipper door
>hardware templates. Makes it look like you spent hours
>drawing the thing.
>
>It's Hafele that I wish had downloadable dxf's.
I downloaded the Accuride file 3832sc_std.zip.php (WTF?),
viewed the raw header (PK for Zip file), stripped the .php
off the end, and tried to get SoftCad3D, TurboCad Lite,
PTC Pro/Desktop, and Intellicad2000 (all 4 freebies) to
read it. None could. Sigh...
No feedback has come from Accuride yet, but I'm willing to
bet that their draftsmen use the most current copy of AutoCad
and output files readable only to that. I wish more web folks
knew to use copies of programs 1 or 2 versions back (or to save
as a more generic version, readable to older programs) so the
rest of the world could view their work. Sigh #2...
----------------------------------------------------------------
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"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Larry Jaques wrote:
> >I downloaded the Accuride file 3832sc_std.zip.php (WTF?),
> >viewed the raw header (PK for Zip file), stripped the .php
> >off the end, and tried to get SoftCad3D, TurboCad Lite,
> >PTC Pro/Desktop, and Intellicad2000 (all 4 freebies) to
> >read it. None could. Sigh...
>
>
> And God bless Al Gore for passing the legislation that
> enabled Auto Desk to be invented.
>
> UA100
Grrrrr.
Take the very *worst* customer support and service you could possibly find
in the computer software industry, add twice the bugs normally found in a
Windoze product, mix in an "upgrade or die" policy along with one of the
most aggressive anti-piracy campaigns known to man, a pricing structure
GUARANTEED to encourage software piracy, a product that the industry is
virtually crippled without (can you say monopoly?), and you have Autodesk.
I use it every day, and my hatred of it grows with each click of the mouse,
each press of a key, each Fatal Error, and each lost file.
Jon E
Tom Watson wrote:
>(It would be a nice idea if slide manufacturers provided a
>download of such a template).
Accuride does but they have to be scaled. Some people
haven't caught on yet to AutoCAD and drawing full size in
model space. Anyway, I 'specially love the flipper door
hardware templates. Makes it look like you spent hours
drawing the thing.
It's Hafele that I wish had downloadable dxf's.
UA100
"Jon Endres, PE" spoke thusly:
> Yes, I'd like to see it.
I'll dig them out tomorrow and get a shot of them to post.
>
> While I may not go the Grizzly approach another poster mentioned, I'll
most
> likely get my slides either from eBay or from Rockler, and get Rockler's
> JIG-IT guide. I figure, for a whole kitchen (almost 50 feet of base
> cabinets, mostly drawers), a few extra bucks on materials and tools
offsets
> the cost of buying the cabinets premade.
Accuride - 3832 is what I use, mostly.
> FWIW, I am building my cabinets modular-style, 30" and 24" widths, I have
an
> open plan that doesn't require odd sizes. They will all be face-frame,
> inset doors and drawers, modified shaker-style.
I did my latest kitchen modular, basically working in increments of 3" for
the different sizes. IIRC, I had about 36 linear feet of base cabinets, not
including the island.
Most of my wall units, and their corresponding base with drawers, are 27"
wide. The sink base is 51" wide. The wall unit above the fridge is 36", and
the wall unit above the range is 42". The two double sided base cabinets
under the Island are 42". I've got a couple more that were odd sizes and
shapes to conform to wall angles, including one 60" base cab that is only
12" deep as it goes into a hall way, and a pantry that is 24" wide, 24" deep
on one end and 12" on the other.
If you haven't already thought about it, standard height for wall units is
generally 30". In many cases, and if your ceiling allows it, making them
taller by 3 - 6" can improve the looks of the kitchen tremendously, as can
making some of them, perhaps in the center of a run, or on the ends, a
little taller than the others. By the time you get trim on these they are
stunning.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04
Larry Jaques wrote:
>I downloaded the Accuride file 3832sc_std.zip.php (WTF?),
>viewed the raw header (PK for Zip file), stripped the .php
>off the end, and tried to get SoftCad3D, TurboCad Lite,
>PTC Pro/Desktop, and Intellicad2000 (all 4 freebies) to
>read it. None could. Sigh...
And God bless Al Gore for passing the legislation that
enabled Auto Desk to be invented.
UA100
On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 23:30:56 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
brought forth from the murky depths:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>>I downloaded the Accuride file 3832sc_std.zip.php (WTF?),
>>viewed the raw header (PK for Zip file), stripped the .php
>>off the end, and tried to get SoftCad3D, TurboCad Lite,
>>PTC Pro/Desktop, and Intellicad2000 (all 4 freebies) to
>>read it. None could. Sigh...
>
>
>And God bless Al Gore for passing the legislation that
>enabled Auto Desk to be invented.
"Howdy, friends. This is your old pal Ralph Spoilsport of
Ralph Spoilsport Motors, here in the city of West Gomorrah
Junction. We've got some outtasite bargains for you. AutoCad
v927 for just 38 easy monthly payments of $1,436,719.23!"
--
STOP THE SLAUGHTER! || http://diversify.com
Boycott Baby Oil! || Programmed Websites
On Wed, 21 Jan 2004 17:39:37 GMT, "Jon Endres, PE"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>OK, this is one that has got me pretty much stumped, although I suppose I
>could make an accurate guess and be safe.
>
>For a standard kitchen cabinet installation, what length of full-extension
>drawer slide is commonly used? I don't have full extension slides in my
>kitchen, so I have no way to measure. I assume for a 24" deep cabinet, you
>use 22" slides? Or are the 24" designation slides for 24" cabinets? Any
>ideas before I buy a bunch of slides that are either too short or too long?
depends on how your cabinet is constructed. the slide length number is
the length of the slide, not the cabinet. I generally build 'em to
loose 1" at the back (1/4" nailer + 1/4" panel) and 3/4" at the front
(face frame) which would give 22-1/4" inside of a 24" cabinet. in that
case I'd build 22" drawers and use 22" slides.
it's not uncommon for the cabinets to be some size other than 24"
though. get a tape measure and see what size the inside of your
cabinets really are....
Bridger