I just cut some lacewood to make some "veneer" (it's not really, but that's
the best way to describe it). The problem I have is how to now sand out
the marks left by the band saw. The pieces are about 3/4" wide, 4 1/4"
long, and just under 1/16" thick. I've got a belt dander, a 1/4-sheet hand
sander and a 5" ROS. Final thickness is not really an issue. Pictures
posted on the binaries group. Any ideas?
--
sm@ug dot ichorfang
at gmail dot com
On Jun 30, 8:57 pm, RicodJour <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jun 30, 11:39 pm, Smaug Ichorfang <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > [email protected] wrote in news:d3d9b7d5-1636-4c3b-9f1a-1b4cf7955422
>
> > > card scraper.
>
> > How do you hold a 1/16 thick piece of wood to scrape it? And if you use
> > double-sided tape to hold it down, how do you get it back up again w/o
> > splitting or otherwise ruining the wood?
>
> One way to do it is to cut one piece of veneer on the bandsaw then run
> the stock through the jointer or thickness planer to smooth out the
> face before running the stock through the bandsaw again. Then you can
> glue the smooth face down and deal with the rough face later with a
> sander/scraper.
>
> R
with a fairly thick veneer like this it's easy enough to hold it with
one hand while scraping with the other, if you want to smooth it a bit
before gluing it down. as long as your bandsaw is tuned up well enough
that you are getting reasonably consistent thickness slices it
shouldn't be a problem to smooth them after glue up.
On Jun 30, 11:39 pm, Smaug Ichorfang <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote in news:d3d9b7d5-1636-4c3b-9f1a-1b4cf7955422
>
> > card scraper.
>
> How do you hold a 1/16 thick piece of wood to scrape it? And if you use
> double-sided tape to hold it down, how do you get it back up again w/o
> splitting or otherwise ruining the wood?
One way to do it is to cut one piece of veneer on the bandsaw then run
the stock through the jointer or thickness planer to smooth out the
face before running the stock through the bandsaw again. Then you can
glue the smooth face down and deal with the rough face later with a
sander/scraper.
R
Smaug Ichorfang wrote:
> [email protected] wrote in
> news:d3d9b7d5-1636-4c3b-9f1a-1b4cf7955422
> @s33g2000pri.googlegroups.com:
>
>> card scraper.
>
> How do you hold a 1/16 thick piece of wood to scrape it?
1. Put wood on flat surface
2. Hold one end with thumb
3. Scrape from thumb end to other end
4. Reverse
5. Sheesh!
> And if you
> use double-sided tape to hold it down, how do you get it back up
> again w/o splitting or otherwise ruining the wood?
_______________
All you need is a small piece of tape under either end so...
1. Pry it up
2. soften adhesive with naptha (lighter fluid)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
On Jul 2, 1:55 am, Smaug Ichorfang <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone that answered my question. Even though you were
> incapable of reading the original post where I listed the tools on-hand,
> which did not include a scraper, I appreciate the effort you made.* My
> birthday of Friday and I'm heading to my brother's in Dallas to celebrate.
> One stop along the way will be at the Woodcraft in Addison on Thursday to
> buy a new scraper. I may also have to stop at the drug store later for a
> box of band-aids (grin).
Easiest scraper substitute is a piece of glass with a straightedge.
http://books.google.com/books?id=RWg30Lf99MEC&pg=PA55&lpg=PA55&dq=cabinet+scraper+piece+of+glass&source=web&ots=JRT3kJnwn2&sig=QwSgwBcwwfsxCy-O-MemP9wK3RY&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=4&ct=result#PPA54,M1
Watch the wrap - I'm not in a TinyURL frame of mind. ;)
R
On Jul 1, 10:55 pm, Smaug Ichorfang <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone that answered my question. Even though you were
> incapable of reading the original post where I listed the tools on-hand,
> which did not include a scraper, I appreciate the effort you made.* My
> birthday of Friday and I'm heading to my brother's in Dallas to celebrate.
> One stop along the way will be at the Woodcraft in Addison on Thursday to
> buy a new scraper. I may also have to stop at the drug store later for a
> box of band-aids (grin).
I read your original post. the tools you had on hand were inadequate.
the tool you want is a card scraper. a thin flat piece of steel about
the size and shape of an index card. Woodcraft has them for $9:
<http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=259>
in order for it to work you'll have to learn to sharpen it. sharpening
of card scrapers is a bit different from sharpening most other things.
here's a pretty good write-up on the process: <http://
liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Scraper.htm>
Smaug Ichorfang <[email protected]> writes:
> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Depending on how thick the stock is a simple stop or double sided tape
>> can be used to hold the work.
>
> How do you hold a 1/16 thick piece of wood to plane it?
As John said, "Depending on how thick the stock is a simple stop or
double sided tape can be used to hold the work."
I haven't tried this, but if you had some rubber non-slip material you
can use underneath it - similar to the cloths you can put on a
dashboard so your cellphone won't slip.
My MIY had some rubber disks used as jar openers, and she placed it
underneath a cutting board so it doesn't slip.
Another idea - I made a simple jig to hold the Shapton GlassStones. It
might be adaptable to planing thin stock. It had two stops, but was
wider than the material. I then took another piece of wood and cut it
at a diagonal, making two triangle-shaped wedges. I then tapped the
triangles together on the sides to wedge the item to the stops.
On Jun 30, 11:37 pm, Smaug Ichorfang <[email protected]> wrote:
> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote innews:[email protected]:
>
>
>
> > I'd be inclined to use a hand plane to smooth one side, glue it down,
> > and then either use a plane or scraper to clean up the other side.
> > Depending on how thick the stock is a simple stop or double sided tape
> > can be used to hold the work.
>
> > I typically smooth the chunk of wood after each cut so that I have one
> > smooth side on each slice. That way there is only one rough side that
> > can be clean up after gluing...
>
> > John
>
> How do you hold a 1/16 thick piece of wood to plane it?
>
Holdfast.
Plane in one direction only, away from the holdfast of course.
"Maxwell Lol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I haven't tried this, but if you had some rubber non-slip material you
> can use underneath it - similar to the cloths you can put on a
> dashboard so your cellphone won't slip.
I bought this no-slip rubber for my router. It was much bigger than I needed
so I've used pieces of it for other applications where I don't want
something to slip.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30215&cat=1,43000
"Maxwell Lol" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Smaug Ichorfang <[email protected]> writes:
>
>> "John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Depending on how thick the stock is a simple stop or double sided tape
>>> can be used to hold the work.
>>
>> How do you hold a 1/16 thick piece of wood to plane it?
>
> As John said, "Depending on how thick the stock is a simple stop or
> double sided tape can be used to hold the work."
>
> I haven't tried this, but if you had some rubber non-slip material you
> can use underneath it - similar to the cloths you can put on a
> dashboard so your cellphone won't slip.
>
> My MIY had some rubber disks used as jar openers, and she placed it
> underneath a cutting board so it doesn't slip.
>
> Another idea - I made a simple jig to hold the Shapton GlassStones. It
> might be adaptable to planing thin stock. It had two stops, but was
> wider than the material. I then took another piece of wood and cut it
> at a diagonal, making two triangle-shaped wedges. I then tapped the
> triangles together on the sides to wedge the item to the stops.
As another writer suggested, you can also hold it down with your
fingers/thumb and plane/scrape one end at a time. For a while I thought I
was the only one to use "finger" clamps for planing and scraping until I
watched Garrett Hack do it at my club's shop. It's easier than you'd think!
John
"Smaug Ichorfang" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just cut some lacewood to make some "veneer" (it's not really, but that's
> the best way to describe it). The problem I have is how to now sand out
> the marks left by the band saw. The pieces are about 3/4" wide, 4 1/4"
> long, and just under 1/16" thick. I've got a belt dander, a 1/4-sheet
> hand
> sander and a 5" ROS. Final thickness is not really an issue. Pictures
> posted on the binaries group. Any ideas?
I'd be inclined to use a hand plane to smooth one side, glue it down, and
then either use a plane or scraper to clean up the other side. Depending on
how thick the stock is a simple stop or double sided tape can be used to
hold the work.
I typically smooth the chunk of wood after each cut so that I have one
smooth side on each slice. That way there is only one rough side that can be
clean up after gluing...
John
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> I'd be inclined to use a hand plane to smooth one side, glue it down,
> and then either use a plane or scraper to clean up the other side.
> Depending on how thick the stock is a simple stop or double sided tape
> can be used to hold the work.
>
> I typically smooth the chunk of wood after each cut so that I have one
> smooth side on each slice. That way there is only one rough side that
> can be clean up after gluing...
>
> John
>
How do you hold a 1/16 thick piece of wood to plane it?
--
sm@ug dot ichorfang
at gmail dot com
[email protected] wrote in news:d3d9b7d5-1636-4c3b-9f1a-1b4cf7955422
@s33g2000pri.googlegroups.com:
> card scraper.
How do you hold a 1/16 thick piece of wood to scrape it? And if you use
double-sided tape to hold it down, how do you get it back up again w/o
splitting or otherwise ruining the wood?
--
sm@ug dot ichorfang
at gmail dot com
Thanks to everyone that answered my question. Even though you were
incapable of reading the original post where I listed the tools on-hand,
which did not include a scraper, I appreciate the effort you made.* My
birthday of Friday and I'm heading to my brother's in Dallas to celebrate.
One stop along the way will be at the Woodcraft in Addison on Thursday to
buy a new scraper. I may also have to stop at the drug store later for a
box of band-aids (grin).
*yeah, I'm not the huggy-kissy kind of orc.
--
sm@ug dot ichorfang
at gmail dot com
On Jul 2, 10:27 am, [email protected] wrote:
> On Jul 1, 10:55 pm, Smaug Ichorfang <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Thanks to everyone that answered my question. Even though you were
> > incapable of reading the original post where I listed the tools on-hand,
> > which did not include a scraper, ...
> > One stop along the way will be at the Woodcraft in Addison on Thursday to
> > buy a new scraper. I may also have to stop at the drug store later for a
> > box of band-aids (grin).
>
> I read your original post. the tools you had on hand were inadequate.
>
> the tool you want is a card scraper. a thin flat piece of steel about
> the size and shape of an index card. Woodcraft has them for $9:
> <http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=259>
>
> in order for it to work you'll have to learn to sharpen it. sharpening
> of card scrapers is a bit different from sharpening most other things.
> here's a pretty good write-up on the process: <http://
> liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Scraper.htm>
Using only the tools on hand, and assuming you have
some scrap wood on hand, you can wrap sandpaper
around a hunk of 2 x 4 and use that with one hand while
holding one end down with the other, sanding in long
straight strokes in one direction only.
I think you'll find the scraper to be much more fun.
--
FF