Gang -
The direction of coping saw teeth would seem to be a straight forward
issue, but apparently not so.
Page 49 of the Nov04 "Family Hanydman" in "Coping isn't as hard as it
looks" says "Make sure the teeth in your coping saw point TOWARD the
handle. That way, the blade will cut smoothly on the pull stroke."
Page 63 of the Dec04 "Workbench" in "Coping Saw Technique" says "For a
chip-free cut, you'll want to mount the blade so the teeth point AWAY
from the handle of the saw. It also helps to make relief cuts, which
allow the waste blocks to fall free."
My inference is that this can't then be a very big deal.
What say ye that have coped with far more than me ;-)
...best, Hash
Sometimes it's the pull stoke and sometimes it's the push stroke...
Oops...sorry, wrong group & thread...
:->
Lou
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 18:21:13 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >Gang -
> >
> >The direction of coping saw teeth would seem to be a straight forward
> >issue, but apparently not so.
> >
> >Page 49 of the Nov04 "Family Hanydman" in "Coping isn't as hard as it
> >looks" says "Make sure the teeth in your coping saw point TOWARD the
> >handle. That way, the blade will cut smoothly on the pull stroke."
> >
> >Page 63 of the Dec04 "Workbench" in "Coping Saw Technique" says "For a
> >chip-free cut, you'll want to mount the blade so the teeth point AWAY
> >from the handle of the saw. It also helps to make relief cuts, which
> >allow the waste blocks to fall free."
> >
> >My inference is that this can't then be a very big deal.
> >
> >What say ye that have coped with far more than me ;-)
> >
> >...best, Hash
>
> I think it may depend on what you're doing, but I believe that on most
> stuff you'll get much better results putting the blade with the teeth
> toward the handle. This would be especially true on thin stock, less
> than 1/4 inch.
>
> I'll note that you put a jeweler's saw blade in the frame with the
> teeth toward the handle. Thing doesn't work worth a darn otherwise.
> And a jeweler's saw is essentially nothing more than a plain-blade
> coping saw with an adjustable frame.
>
> --RC
>
> Sleep? Isn't that a totally inadequate substitute for caffine?
>
Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 6:21pm [email protected] queries:
<snip> What say ye that have coped with far more than me ;-)
Personally, I believe I get best results with the teeth pointing
toward the handle.
JOAT
Any plan is bad which is incapable of modification.
- Publilius Syrus
Don't know if I've coped more than you have or not. My coping saws all
have a little bit of flex to the frame. Pushing the saw takes tension
off the blade. Worst case would be if it took off so much tension the
blade would fall out of the frame. Pull stroke eliminates this problem.
What would be the reason for wanting to do a push stroke again?
bob g.
[email protected] wrote:
> Gang -
>
> The direction of coping saw teeth would seem to be a straight forward
> issue, but apparently not so.
>
> Page 49 of the Nov04 "Family Hanydman" in "Coping isn't as hard as it
> looks" says "Make sure the teeth in your coping saw point TOWARD the
> handle. That way, the blade will cut smoothly on the pull stroke."
>
> Page 63 of the Dec04 "Workbench" in "Coping Saw Technique" says "For a
> chip-free cut, you'll want to mount the blade so the teeth point AWAY
> from the handle of the saw. It also helps to make relief cuts, which
> allow the waste blocks to fall free."
>
> My inference is that this can't then be a very big deal.
>
> What say ye that have coped with far more than me ;-)
>
> ...best, Hash
If you have a good commercial quality coping frame, I would leave
the teeth forward. It is easier for me to support the trim on my
sawhorse and cope looking at the face of the molding. Tradition
suggests using the teeth to the handle, especially when a kid is
learning to cut out "stuff". I don't want to kneel of the ground
to keep those teeth cutting down into the face of the material.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:JXvmd.10745$nj.7316@lakeread01...
> Gang -
>
> The direction of coping saw teeth would seem to be a straight
> forward
> issue, but apparently not so.
>
> Page 49 of the Nov04 "Family Hanydman" in "Coping isn't as hard
> as it
> looks" says "Make sure the teeth in your coping saw point TOWARD
> the
> handle. That way, the blade will cut smoothly on the pull
> stroke."
>
> Page 63 of the Dec04 "Workbench" in "Coping Saw Technique" says
> "For a
> chip-free cut, you'll want to mount the blade so the teeth point
> AWAY
> from the handle of the saw. It also helps to make relief cuts,
> which
> allow the waste blocks to fall free."
>
> My inference is that this can't then be a very big deal.
>
> What say ye that have coped with far more than me ;-)
>
> ...best, Hash
"J T" wrote in message
> Tue, Nov 16, 2004, 6:21pm [email protected] queries:
> <snip> What say ye that have coped with far more than me ;-)
>
> Personally, I believe I get best results with the teeth pointing
> toward the handle.
Likewise ... it is much easier to cut on an edge on the pull stroke in my
experience.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:JXvmd.10745$nj.7316@lakeread01...
> Gang -
>
> The direction of coping saw teeth would seem to be a straight forward
> issue, but apparently not so.
>
> Page 49 of the Nov04 "Family Hanydman" in "Coping isn't as hard as it
> looks" says "Make sure the teeth in your coping saw point TOWARD the
> handle. That way, the blade will cut smoothly on the pull stroke."
>
> Page 63 of the Dec04 "Workbench" in "Coping Saw Technique" says "For a
> chip-free cut, you'll want to mount the blade so the teeth point AWAY
> from the handle of the saw. It also helps to make relief cuts, which
> allow the waste blocks to fall free."
All things considered, with the "typical" coping saw the blade will pop out
more often with the teeth pointed away from the handle than if they point
towards the handle.
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 18:21:13 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>The direction of coping saw teeth would seem to be a straight forward
>issue, but apparently not so.
What's a "coping saw" ?
If you have the teeth pointing forwards, then you're relying on the
frame not flexing on the cut stroke. For a real coping saw this ought
to work. For many other varieties of fret saw or piercing saw, it's
asking for trouble,
I sometimes put the blade in for a push cut, but only if I'm working
in-situ and I _must_ have the good side of the work towards me.
>Page 63 of the Dec04 "Workbench" in "Coping Saw Technique" says "For a
>chip-free cut, you'll want to mount the blade so the teeth point AWAY
>from the handle of the saw.
That's for people who can't saw straight. If your action is good,
you place the workpiece on a keyhole bench with the good side
uppermost, the saw handle goes underneath, you cut on the downward
pull stroke and you watch what you're doing entirely from the top.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 18:21:13 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>Gang -
>
>The direction of coping saw teeth would seem to be a straight forward
>issue, but apparently not so.
>
>Page 49 of the Nov04 "Family Hanydman" in "Coping isn't as hard as it
>looks" says "Make sure the teeth in your coping saw point TOWARD the
>handle. That way, the blade will cut smoothly on the pull stroke."
>
>Page 63 of the Dec04 "Workbench" in "Coping Saw Technique" says "For a
>chip-free cut, you'll want to mount the blade so the teeth point AWAY
>from the handle of the saw. It also helps to make relief cuts, which
>allow the waste blocks to fall free."
>
>My inference is that this can't then be a very big deal.
>
>What say ye that have coped with far more than me ;-)
>
>...best, Hash
I think it may depend on what you're doing, but I believe that on most
stuff you'll get much better results putting the blade with the teeth
toward the handle. This would be especially true on thin stock, less
than 1/4 inch.
I'll note that you put a jeweler's saw blade in the frame with the
teeth toward the handle. Thing doesn't work worth a darn otherwise.
And a jeweler's saw is essentially nothing more than a plain-blade
coping saw with an adjustable frame.
--RC
Sleep? Isn't that a totally inadequate substitute for caffine?