I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
hand?
Thanks
AK
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
> circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
> future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
> I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
> circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
> acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse?
You got it. Circular saw should be fine and as good as a table saw doing it
this way. If your CS comes with the "T-square" edge guide you could use that
too. Good side down.
Or is the cut
> going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
> Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
> hand?
>
> Thanks
>
> AK
>
[email protected] wrote:
> I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
> circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
> future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
> I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
> circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
> acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
> going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
It will work fine except you have to clamp the 1 x 4 down to
something while ripping it, and the clamps will interfere with
the platen on the saw. You can nail or screw the stock down
instead of clamping if you don't mind the holes.
>
> Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
> hand?
>
You can buy 1 x 3 furring strips, assuming that by 1 x 3 you mean
2 1/2" wide.
--
FF
Fred wrote:
> You got it. Circular saw should be fine and as good as a table saw doing it
> this way. If your CS comes with the "T-square" edge guide you could use that
> too.
If you don't have the t- square thing you can screw or clamp a 1x2 a
foot or two long to the plateen of your saw, parallel to the blade, and
use that as an edge guide. The longer it is the more it will even out
the bumps and hollows of the edge the guide rides against. Sam
You could also turn your circle saw into a table saw in about 10
minutes. Drill some holes in the plateen. Plunge cut the saw through a
piece of plywood. Unplug the saw. Screw the saw to the ply with 1 5/8 -
2" sheetrock screws. Wire or tape the saw trigger closed. Turn the
works over and screw or clamp to some sawhorses. Break off the
protruding sheetrock screws. Lay a straight edge, a 4' level works
good, lightly against the sawblade and mark both ends on the plywood
table, which will be 0". Measure from the marks whatever width cut you
want, clamp a straight edge on the marks, a 4' level works good, plug
in the saw and cut. Sam
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >>
> >> Lenders are out of the question as it has already been stated that a
> > factory
> >> home can fetch up to 7% more at appraisal time. Lenders should not
apply
> > as
> >> they would be making a more sound investment.
> >>
>
> This statistic came from an officer of the board of the appraisal unit of
> the second largest mortgage company in the US, who is very closely
related.
> It is something that is already in place and seems to be somewhat accepted
> across the board.
>
> I did not say it was an automatic 7%, it is an allowed max. Thus if the
> appraiser feels that it is justified than so be it. The increase comes
from
> the consumer and the market itself and is not just made up by the
appraiser.
> The conditions (i.e. people were more inclined to pay more) are what drove
> the appraisers to allow for such an adjustment. I am sure that this does
> not apply to across the board, nor does it apply to all homes. This is
why
> they have appraisals, to determine the value. Just as a stick built could
> be built like crap, so could a factory home, so it is all in the actual
> home.
>
> Appraisals are driven by the market, appraisers are only really estimating
> the homes value to what has already sold, local as possible. Appraisers
use
> "comps", or three homes of equal specs that have sold locally. If they
> cannot find similar factory built homes to comp, they are allowed to
adjust
> as they see accordingly, maybe -5% could be 7%, up to them really.
>
OK - I see what you are saying. Your original statement appeared to claim
that modular held a 7% premium over stick built. Under the conditions you
stipulate above, that same 7% statement could be made for any home. That's
the nature of appraising.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's in the interest of the builders, period. Manufactured homes are
classed
> as mobile homes here. You can only put them where a trailer would be
legal.
>
That's bad. I'm not a fan of manufactured housing, but good lord, there is
a world of difference between a modular home and a mobile home. BTW, I'm
not a fan of manufactured housing for no good reason at all. Just stuck in
my ways.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:y%[email protected]...
>
> I'm thinking about the quality of the typical framing job here, and
> yeah, that would explain it...
>
>
>>
>
Here?
I think it would be safe to say across the board. All framers = speed not
quality.
Worse jobs we ever had was switching from framing to finish work. Something
that would actually be seen.
I am now in a 2400sqft manufactured home. You could never tell from the
outside. Almost 20 years old now. Not a squeak in the floor, crack in the
drywall, everything plumb and level, and I could go on. Thing is as tight
as a drum to boot. I use no heat upstairs (this is New England). In the
summer I have a house fan running on hot days. With the fan running it is
hard as heck to get the outside doors closed.
Comparing that to the 3000sqft super home done the street is a joke. 8
years newer with more squeaks and cracks. His heating bill is 6 times mine
(I do burn wood though). He also has a hutch that is flush with the
baseboard and leans 2" away from the wall at the top.
Factory homes have my approval. I have heard now that a factory home can
fetch up to 7% more at appraisal time.
Chris
And it shows.
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Funny how you see no miter boxes, table saws or levels in a framers truck,
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
> circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
> future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
> I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
> circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
> acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
> going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
> Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
> hand?
I've done this with the rip guide on my Porter Cable 7 1/4" saw with
satisfactory results... I even made extension jambs for a couple windows one
time when no table saw was available. Does your saw take a rip guide? It
might do the job for you just fine if you set it to the width of the scrap
and clamp the board down securely.
John
On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 23:06:48 -0400, "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> We have several very nice manufactured homes in the town that I live in.
>> They are legal here as they allow mobile homes (there's relatively few of
>> those here, however). Most places around here though, they are against
>> zoning laws so, for the person wanting to have a new house built, they
>> either have to build a conventional site built house or move out in the
>> country were mobile homes are allowed. Years ago, when I first heard of
>> manufactured homes, I thought that they would be a revelation in the
>> housing
>> market. Being all machine cut and jig built, they would not only be
>> inherently better made, they would be cheaper due to production line
>> techniques. The builders here had other plans though.
>>
>
>Am I hearing this right? Zoning not allowing factory built homes? Town I
>live in will not allow mobile, but allows factory built.
>
>If this is the case, it sure does sound like local builders getting
>involved.
>In the interest of the town and the end-owner; what valid reason do they
>have?
What do you guys mean by manufactured homes. Are we talking about
double wides that are basically two moble homes driven to a site and
bolted together - maybe placed on a crawl space foundation or just
piered and skirted like any other moble home, or are we talking about
multi-sectioned houses trucked in and assembled on a foundation or
basement. Both of these have pretty much the full interiors done at
the factory and have fully clad exteriors. The "manufactured" homes I
am seeing alot of here in western PA are factory made wall, floor and
roofing sections that are trucked in and then put together via cranes
on site-built basements. The exterior work (vynl or brick or a
mixture) is mostly done on site as is most of the non-framing related
interior, including drywall, plumbing, electrical, HVAC and cabinetry.
Virtually all finish carpentry is done on site. I guess the framing
and sheathing is what is factory done.
Dave Hall
Hey swingman, doesn't it get a bit hard to breath with your head that deep
up your butt?
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I belong to every builder's organization in this area and can say from
> firsthand knowledge that, at least in this neck of the woods, "builder's"
> have nothing to do with keeping out "manufactured" and modular designed
> homes. Consumers, local municipalities and their zoning ordnances/codes,
and
> most importantly, LENDERS, would be at the top of my list in that regard.
>
> Someone still has to put them together and any "builder" I know worthy of
> the classification would be glad to do that, as well as finish them out.
> AAMOF, our local builder's trade rag is full of ads for modular home
> construction, along with how to articles, tips and suggestions.
>
That's a pretty accurate reflection of upstate NY as well. You hit the nail
on the head with the caps above.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Chris" wrote in message
>
> "Swingman" wrote in message
.
> >
> > Someone still has to put them together and any "builder" I know worthy
of
> > the classification would be glad to do that, as well as finish them out.
> > AAMOF, our local builder's trade rag is full of ads for modular home
> > construction, along with how to articles, tips and suggestions.
> So there again lies the question; why would the consumers and cities/towns
> not want one. Not to start the blame game. I would be interested in
> hearing any reason as to why the consumer and the local municipalities
along
> with zoning ordinances would not want a modular.
Good question ... to answer that, just go deal with any
bureaucrat/bureaucracy that has anything to do with building issues.
Resistance to, fear of, and not enough sense, to handle "change", or
anything out of the ordinary is the driving force from my perspective, which
is that of a "builder".
The preponderance of these folks are frozen with fear for their cushy, tax
payer supported jobs and benefits, and want no part of anything that
requires thought or action on their part. I happen to deal with them daily
... trust me when I tell you that "builder's" are the enemy, and
unfortunately, rightfully so in many case.
Then throw in the myriad proliferation, to rival the IRC tax code, of the
building codes across the country.
As for consumers ... go watch about ten minutes of TV to see where that
collective IQ resides. Not to mention that Realtors, another pox on society,
_tell_ folks what to buy, what not to buy, and exert a tremendous influence
on both the price of housing, and rental rates in most areas.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/29/05
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Lenders are out of the question as it has already been stated that a
factory
> home can fetch up to 7% more at appraisal time. Lenders should not apply
as
> they would be making a more sound investment.
>
I have to question this statistic. This would appear to be something
published by the manufactured housing industry and if so, that makes it
suspicious all by itself. I've never seen a higher market for manufactured
housing over stick built and I have to really question if that will ever be
the case. All by itself, (if that statistic does have some legitimacy),
it's meaningless. 7% more than what? To whom? Manufactured housing is
almost always trimmed out with a lower grade of material (less fancy, lower
quality, entry level stuff), than what a typical stick build is trimmed out
with. I'm thinking of things like casings (most modulars are use paint
grade trim since everything is painted white), carpets, appliances (if
included), and the likes.
One can't throw a statistic out there and then say the lenders shouldn't
respond to the market the way they do simply because this statistic is out
there. The lenders represent a very significant portion of the reality that
makes up the housing market.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 20:20:18 -0400, "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Get the ripgiude, or make one...you should have it anyway.
>>> Wilson
>>
>>Or use what house framers use. Their finger.
>>
>>WARNING DANGEROUS USE CAUTION
>>
>>Back in my framing days I remember using a finger to rip the corner
>>moldings. Surprising accurate with practice. Right hand on the saw left
>>hand and index finger up against the edge of the board whilst holding the
>>saw base. Oh ya on a worm drive to boot. :)
>>
>>Funny how you see no miter boxes, table saws or levels in a framers truck,
>>yet they still get the job done.
>
> What kind of framers are you working with? We take a table saw, miter
> saw, band saw, a stable of levels and squares and a good builder's
> level to frame out additions. Might not always need it, but it's good
> to have in the cube van. Now, I'd agree with a lot of the stuff you
> mentioned, it can all be done with smaller power/hand tools- but I'd
> get really twitchy if I saw a guy framing something on my house
> without a level... then people wonder why none of the walls are plumb
> (DUH!)
>
Common framer knowledge. Strings and plumb bobs are way more accurate than
any level (gravity never warps) . Or do you go down and level every stud in
a 40' wall? That would scare me. Much better to plumb the corners and
then stretch a sting across the top of the wall and sight the wall,
adjusting the spring boards as needed. Way more accurate than placing a
level on each stud, or a couple of places along the length of the wall. Old
timer tip was to actually tip the wall out about 1/8 or less for an 8' wall.
Gave the street the better illusion that the walls of the house were plumb.
Interior walls are another story and need a level only to confirm the
measurements made.
Additions tend to be smaller so it might not apply.
--
Chris
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
We have several very nice manufactured homes in the town that I live in.
They are legal here as they allow mobile homes (there's relatively few of
those here, however). Most places around here though, they are against
zoning laws so, for the person wanting to have a new house built, they
either have to build a conventional site built house or move out in the
country were mobile homes are allowed. Years ago, when I first heard of
manufactured homes, I thought that they would be a revelation in the housing
market. Being all machine cut and jig built, they would not only be
inherently better made, they would be cheaper due to production line
techniques. The builders here had other plans though.
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Not around here. They classify them as mobile homes, same as a trailer.
> > Factory built, on site assembled houses are inherently superior quality
> > but
> > the builders around here have lobbied hard to have them classified as
> > second
> > rate.
> >
>
> Too bad. They are not all too common here in MA either. I know up in
Maine
> and NH they are gaining popularity.
>
> I bought this home from the previous owner. Addition going on too, so I
> will most likely be here for a while. If I built a home I sure would
think
> seriously about a factory built. This house came from a factory in PA.
> Still not sure how it can work out to be cheaper as well, but the value is
> defiantly there.
>
> I have had visitors who thought the house was new. Some did not believe
it
> was a factory home. Had to take them down to the basement to show them
> where the chain marks were when they lifted the section.
>
> Only draw back is the way the attic come out and the thicker center wall.
>
> --
> Chris
>
> If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
> soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
>
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
>circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
>future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
>I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
>circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
>acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
>going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
>Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
>hand?
>
>Thanks
>
>AK
>
Sell the 1X4s and buy 1X3s.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
Lots of great info in these posts. One more tip. Measure the distance from
your blade to the edge of the saw's base. Mine is 3 1/2" if I remember
correctly. If that measurement is fine for you and your trim requirements
you can just use that to follow the edige of the board.
Or - Just make friends with somone who has a tablesaw.
Or - just use 1x4 trim as is.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
> circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
> future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
> I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
> circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
> acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
> going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
> Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
> hand?
>
> Thanks
>
> AK
>
Get the ripgiude, or make one...you should have it anyway.
Wilson
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
> circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
> future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
> I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
> circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
> acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
> going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
> Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
> hand?
>
> Thanks
>
> AK
>
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> forgive me but I can not resist the temptation...NO SHIT SHERLOCK!!! I
> am sure that he meant using the jointer after he ripped the pieces with
> the hand saw!
>
I'd go with the rip guide that fits your circular saw. A very handy
accessory.
The suggestions on using either the rip guide that came with the saw, or
clamping on a straight edge should work very well. If your hand is
steady, and you have an accurate blade edge mark on the leading edge of the
sole plate, you could probably do a good job just following a line. Clamp
the board down well.
I cut 2x4 into 1 x 2 clamping it to a picnic table so that the blade could
drop between the boards of the table top. All nice and straight, just
following a line. Probably better than a cheap table saw.
Bruce
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
> circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
> future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
> I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
> circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
> acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
> going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
> Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
> hand?
>
> Thanks
>
> AK
>
It's in the interest of the builders, period. Manufactured homes are classed
as mobile homes here. You can only put them where a trailer would be legal.
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Am I hearing this right? Zoning not allowing factory built homes? Town I
> live in will not allow mobile, but allows factory built.
>
> If this is the case, it sure does sound like local builders getting
> involved.
> In the interest of the town and the end-owner; what valid reason do they
> have?
>
> --
> Chris
>
> If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
> soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
>
>
"Dave Hall" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 23:06:48 -0400, "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> We have several very nice manufactured homes in the town that I live in.
>>> They are legal here as they allow mobile homes (there's relatively few
>>> of
>>> those here, however). Most places around here though, they are against
>>> zoning laws so, for the person wanting to have a new house built, they
>>> either have to build a conventional site built house or move out in the
>>> country were mobile homes are allowed. Years ago, when I first heard of
>>> manufactured homes, I thought that they would be a revelation in the
>>> housing
>>> market. Being all machine cut and jig built, they would not only be
>>> inherently better made, they would be cheaper due to production line
>>> techniques. The builders here had other plans though.
>>>
>>
>>Am I hearing this right? Zoning not allowing factory built homes? Town I
>>live in will not allow mobile, but allows factory built.
>>
>>If this is the case, it sure does sound like local builders getting
>>involved.
>>In the interest of the town and the end-owner; what valid reason do they
>>have?
>
> What do you guys mean by manufactured homes. Are we talking about
> double wides that are basically two moble homes driven to a site and
> bolted together - maybe placed on a crawl space foundation or just
> piered and skirted like any other moble home, or are we talking about
> multi-sectioned houses trucked in and assembled on a foundation or
> basement. Both of these have pretty much the full interiors done at
> the factory and have fully clad exteriors. The "manufactured" homes I
> am seeing alot of here in western PA are factory made wall, floor and
> roofing sections that are trucked in and then put together via cranes
> on site-built basements. The exterior work (vynl or brick or a
> mixture) is mostly done on site as is most of the non-framing related
> interior, including drywall, plumbing, electrical, HVAC and cabinetry.
> Virtually all finish carpentry is done on site. I guess the framing
> and sheathing is what is factory done.
>
> Dave Hall
Dave,
Talking about "real" factory homes that look like standard homes. More or
less could not tell if you drove by one. Or your second description.
My in fact came from a factory in Western PA, all the way to MA. Go figure.
--
Chris
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
How many of these are you going to rip?
Suggestion, if you purchased the wood recently only to then discover
your mistake, try to take the 1x4s back (hope you have the receipt) and
get the correct stuff.
[email protected] wrote:
> I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
> circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
> future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
> I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
> circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
> acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
> going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
> Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
> hand?
>
> Thanks
>
> AK
>
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> > "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Lenders are out of the question as it has already been stated that a
>> > factory
>> >> home can fetch up to 7% more at appraisal time. Lenders should not
> apply
>> > as
>> >> they would be making a more sound investment.
>> >>
>>
>> This statistic came from an officer of the board of the appraisal unit of
>> the second largest mortgage company in the US, who is very closely
> related.
>> It is something that is already in place and seems to be somewhat
>> accepted
>> across the board.
>>
>> I did not say it was an automatic 7%, it is an allowed max. Thus if the
>> appraiser feels that it is justified than so be it. The increase comes
> from
>> the consumer and the market itself and is not just made up by the
> appraiser.
>> The conditions (i.e. people were more inclined to pay more) are what
>> drove
>> the appraisers to allow for such an adjustment. I am sure that this does
>> not apply to across the board, nor does it apply to all homes. This is
> why
>> they have appraisals, to determine the value. Just as a stick built
>> could
>> be built like crap, so could a factory home, so it is all in the actual
>> home.
>>
>> Appraisals are driven by the market, appraisers are only really
>> estimating
>> the homes value to what has already sold, local as possible. Appraisers
> use
>> "comps", or three homes of equal specs that have sold locally. If they
>> cannot find similar factory built homes to comp, they are allowed to
> adjust
>> as they see accordingly, maybe -5% could be 7%, up to them really.
>>
>
> OK - I see what you are saying. Your original statement appeared to claim
> that modular held a 7% premium over stick built. Under the conditions you
> stipulate above, that same 7% statement could be made for any home.
> That's
> the nature of appraising.
>
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
Exactly,
Sorry if I was misleading in the original comment.
The 7% just seems like a number that is now being allowed. Sure for any
home it could be, after all an appraisal is just an opinion compared to what
other similar homes have recently sold for. Just in the same fashion; if an
appraiser had experience with a high quality local stick builder, he could
adjust for that as well. Could go the other way as well and the appraiser
knows that a particular factory built home is of poor quality. The trend is
reflected that factory built in general seem to be of better quality than
stick built. I am not saying this, the consumer who is driving the market
is saying this. Thus the allowed adjustment.
I guess we could take it to the extreme and say that two exactly similar
homes, one stick one factory, the appraisal is allowed to say, hey it is
factory built so boom 7% more. I think that it would stem from the general
overall quality that is afford at the factory. Work on a framing crew for a
while, speed is the concern, not quality, unfortunately for most. A factory
built can afford the speed at the same time, with increased quality, in
general terms.
Architect that drew up the plans for our addition here mentioned the factory
quality as well. One simple thing he mentioned was the house wrap (one of
the reasons contributing to the insulation value of the home). His comment
"Every drive by a house being built with the Tyvek (sp?) flapping in the
wind?".
Using the experience that I echoed above with my factory home, would I pay
7% more for it if I could find a stick built the exact same? Hard to say.
The experience that I have with this home would lead me to pay more, how
much is the question.
--
Chris
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 20:20:18 -0400, "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Get the ripgiude, or make one...you should have it anyway.
>> Wilson
>
>Or use what house framers use. Their finger.
>
>WARNING DANGEROUS USE CAUTION
>
>Back in my framing days I remember using a finger to rip the corner
>moldings. Surprising accurate with practice. Right hand on the saw left
>hand and index finger up against the edge of the board whilst holding the
>saw base. Oh ya on a worm drive to boot. :)
>
>Funny how you see no miter boxes, table saws or levels in a framers truck,
>yet they still get the job done.
What kind of framers are you working with? We take a table saw, miter
saw, band saw, a stable of levels and squares and a good builder's
level to frame out additions. Might not always need it, but it's good
to have in the cube van. Now, I'd agree with a lot of the stuff you
mentioned, it can all be done with smaller power/hand tools- but I'd
get really twitchy if I saw a guy framing something on my house
without a level... then people wonder why none of the walls are plumb
(DUH!)
"Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Get the ripgiude, or make one...you should have it anyway.
> Wilson
Or use what house framers use. Their finger.
WARNING DANGEROUS USE CAUTION
Back in my framing days I remember using a finger to rip the corner
moldings. Surprising accurate with practice. Right hand on the saw left
hand and index finger up against the edge of the board whilst holding the
saw base. Oh ya on a worm drive to boot. :)
Funny how you see no miter boxes, table saws or levels in a framers truck,
yet they still get the job done.
On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 10:39:07 -0400, "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote:
>So there again lies the question; why would the consumers and cities/towns
>not want one.
keeping construction jobs in the community comes to mind...
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not around here. They classify them as mobile homes, same as a trailer.
> Factory built, on site assembled houses are inherently superior quality
> but
> the builders around here have lobbied hard to have them classified as
> second
> rate.
>
Too bad. They are not all too common here in MA either. I know up in Maine
and NH they are gaining popularity.
I bought this home from the previous owner. Addition going on too, so I
will most likely be here for a while. If I built a home I sure would think
seriously about a factory built. This house came from a factory in PA.
Still not sure how it can work out to be cheaper as well, but the value is
defiantly there.
I have had visitors who thought the house was new. Some did not believe it
was a factory home. Had to take them down to the basement to show them
where the chain marks were when they lifted the section.
Only draw back is the way the attic come out and the thicker center wall.
--
Chris
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
Sure, no problem, though you want to make sure your 1X4 guide is as
straight as possible. If the CS blade is sharp, you can get a real
clean cut with nothing fancier. You may have the play around figuring
out how to clamp the guide to the 4" width, but it can be done.
BTW, is you're using plywood for the house, ripping a strip off the
8' length and using the machine cut edge as a straight edge guide
works great. You can cut this piece into smaller needed hunks later.
Just cut about 6'. stop, move the guide and cut the rest of the 10
footer.
Regards.
On 30 Aug 2005 11:57:34 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
>circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
>future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
>I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
>circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
>acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
>going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
>Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
>hand?
>
>Thanks
>
>AK
Easiest solution is find someone with a tablesaw, should be able to
do this for you in about 5minutes (or less) - most neighbors would
probably do this for you for a sixpack or maybe even for a pizza
John
On 30 Aug 2005 11:57:34 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3. I have a mitre saw and
>circular saw/skil saw but no table saw. I don't have the space or much
>future anticipated use for table saw so did not want to invest in one.
>
>I was planning to clamp on one of the 1x4s as a guide and use my
>circular saw to do the ripping. Will this work and end product be
>acceptable to use as trim on outside of a playhouse? Or is the cut
>going to be so crooked as to look ugly?
>
>Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
>hand?
>
>Thanks
>
>AK
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> Lenders are out of the question as it has already been stated that a
> factory
>> home can fetch up to 7% more at appraisal time. Lenders should not apply
> as
>> they would be making a more sound investment.
>>
>
> I have to question this statistic. This would appear to be something
> published by the manufactured housing industry and if so, that makes it
> suspicious all by itself. I've never seen a higher market for
> manufactured
> housing over stick built and I have to really question if that will ever
> be
> the case. All by itself, (if that statistic does have some legitimacy),
> it's meaningless. 7% more than what? To whom? Manufactured housing is
> almost always trimmed out with a lower grade of material (less fancy,
> lower
> quality, entry level stuff), than what a typical stick build is trimmed
> out
> with. I'm thinking of things like casings (most modulars are use paint
> grade trim since everything is painted white), carpets, appliances (if
> included), and the likes.
>
> One can't throw a statistic out there and then say the lenders shouldn't
> respond to the market the way they do simply because this statistic is out
> there. The lenders represent a very significant portion of the reality
> that
> makes up the housing market.
>
> --
This statistic came from an officer of the board of the appraisal unit of
the second largest mortgage company in the US, who is very closely related.
It is something that is already in place and seems to be somewhat accepted
across the board.
I did not say it was an automatic 7%, it is an allowed max. Thus if the
appraiser feels that it is justified than so be it. The increase comes from
the consumer and the market itself and is not just made up by the appraiser.
The conditions (i.e. people were more inclined to pay more) are what drove
the appraisers to allow for such an adjustment. I am sure that this does
not apply to across the board, nor does it apply to all homes. This is why
they have appraisals, to determine the value. Just as a stick built could
be built like crap, so could a factory home, so it is all in the actual
home.
Appraisals are driven by the market, appraisers are only really estimating
the homes value to what has already sold, local as possible. Appraisers use
"comps", or three homes of equal specs that have sold locally. If they
cannot find similar factory built homes to comp, they are allowed to adjust
as they see accordingly, maybe -5% could be 7%, up to them really.
I also think that general location is another key that surely influences the
result as well. A factory in PA for example is not going to ship a home to
CA for obvious reasons. So the quality of the homes coming out of the local
factories is surely a driving factor as well. The economically challenged
areas are for sure not going to put out a factory home that can compete with
a factory home in a well to do area. Thus the differences.
All oak trim and solid interior doors here. Granted it might not be the
norm, but just as a stick built home can be spec'ed out with paint grade
trim so can a factory built. The little experiences that I have with the
factory built homes in this area seem to be spec'ed pretty much the same
here. Again could very well the area that influences it. Heck mine even
has two layers of plywood on the floors.
Thinking out loud,
Most stick built homes are built by smaller builders, 10 a year maybe. I
would think that a factory spiting out a couple hundred or so (just general
numbers as I have no support of them), would have more buying power, thus
might be able to offer, say, oak trim, at a lower price than the local
builder.
--
Chris
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> We have several very nice manufactured homes in the town that I live in.
> They are legal here as they allow mobile homes (there's relatively few of
> those here, however). Most places around here though, they are against
> zoning laws so, for the person wanting to have a new house built, they
> either have to build a conventional site built house or move out in the
> country were mobile homes are allowed. Years ago, when I first heard of
> manufactured homes, I thought that they would be a revelation in the
> housing
> market. Being all machine cut and jig built, they would not only be
> inherently better made, they would be cheaper due to production line
> techniques. The builders here had other plans though.
>
Am I hearing this right? Zoning not allowing factory built homes? Town I
live in will not allow mobile, but allows factory built.
If this is the case, it sure does sound like local builders getting
involved.
In the interest of the town and the end-owner; what valid reason do they
have?
--
Chris
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
Not around here. They classify them as mobile homes, same as a trailer.
Factory built, on site assembled houses are inherently superior quality but
the builders around here have lobbied hard to have them classified as second
rate.
"Chris" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> Factory homes have my approval. I have heard now that a factory home can
> fetch up to 7% more at appraisal time.
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 15:42:03 -0500, Tom Banes
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>I need to rip about 10 1x4 (10 ft long) to 1x3.
>>Any other suggestions on how I can accomplish this job with tools at
>>hand?
I missed the OP, but around here we can buy 1x3s already made.
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> I've done that many time on panels too large for my table saw. It has
> always been fine for a non-critical application; which I presume a playhouse
> is.
>
> I guess you don't have a jointer, but a pass through one would make better.
"A" pass? That's one hell of a pass, turning a 1x4 into a 1x3. Sixteen
passes, maybe...
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
>
> "CW" wrote in message
>
> > It's in the interest of the builders, period. Manufactured homes are
> classed
> > as mobile homes here. You can only put them where a trailer would be
> legal.
> >
>
> That's bad. I'm not a fan of manufactured housing, but good lord, there
is
> a world of difference between a modular home and a mobile home. BTW, I'm
> not a fan of manufactured housing for no good reason at all. Just stuck
in
> my ways.
CW, as usual, is getting his politics and Internet garnered widom mixed up
with his outlook on life.
I belong to every builder's organization in this area and can say from
firsthand knowledge that, at least in this neck of the woods, "builder's"
have nothing to do with keeping out "manufactured" and modular designed
homes. Consumers, local municipalities and their zoning ordnances/codes, and
most importantly, LENDERS, would be at the top of my list in that regard.
Someone still has to put them together and any "builder" I know worthy of
the classification would be glad to do that, as well as finish them out.
AAMOF, our local builder's trade rag is full of ads for modular home
construction, along with how to articles, tips and suggestions.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/29/05
In article <[email protected]>, Chris <[email protected]> wrote:
<...snipped...>
>
>Funny how you see no miter boxes, table saws or levels in a framers truck,
>yet they still get the job done.
>
I'm thinking about the quality of the typical framing job here, and
yeah, that would explain it...
>
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Mike Marlow" wrote in message
> I belong to every builder's organization in this area and can say from
> firsthand knowledge that, at least in this neck of the woods, "builder's"
> have nothing to do with keeping out "manufactured" and modular designed
> homes. Consumers, local municipalities and their zoning ordnances/codes,
> and
> most importantly, LENDERS, would be at the top of my list in that regard.
>
> Someone still has to put them together and any "builder" I know worthy of
> the classification would be glad to do that, as well as finish them out.
> AAMOF, our local builder's trade rag is full of ads for modular home
> construction, along with how to articles, tips and suggestions.
>
> --
So there again lies the question; why would the consumers and cities/towns
not want one. Not to start the blame game. I would be interested in
hearing any reason as to why the consumer and the local municipalities along
with zoning ordinances would not want a modular.
Lenders are out of the question as it has already been stated that a factory
home can fetch up to 7% more at appraisal time. Lenders should not apply as
they would be making a more sound investment.
I was a little hesitant at snapping this home up being a factory home, but
the previous owners were wanting out real quick and I got a steal on the
place. They actually had three offers the first day it listed. After being
here for a few years, the pros of a factory home have surely turned me
around.
As far as the town/city not wanting a factory home, I have a hard time
finding any valid reason. If anything it would make it easier on them.
They collect the same fees from the building permits, and surely have less
work to do.
Thinking off the top of my head. It would not surprise me if some of the
larger factories have a legal team to contest any zoning ordinances that do
not allow factory homes. After all this country is somewhat a free one
(getting less so everyday). If you wanted to get real picky, the town has
less of an eyesore, less trash , and a cleaner jobsite (ever see what gets
buried at a new home site).
The only problem that I can think of, is that there are some lesser quality
factories out there spitting out homes that are not much more than a mobile
home. Thus the reasoning.
--
Chris
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If it is in English, thank a
soldier. If it is in ebonics, thank your Congressman.
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "CW" wrote in message
>> And it shows.
>>
>> "Chris" wrote in message
>
>> >
>> > Funny how you see no miter boxes, table saws or levels in a framers
> truck,
>
> ... but it's amazing what you can do with skill and a roofing square.
>
>
> --
Actually if memory serves me correctly.
Miter box - way to slow and most cuts are faster and just as accurate with a
skilled person, and a Skill-saw and a speed square.
Level - Does not belong on a job-site for a framer until the interior walls
come in. Or as an old boss told me if doing a home for the owner, when the
owner shows up take the level out of the truck and put it somewhere where it
can be seen. The level, as I learned, is the one tool you do not want to
see a framer using. Strings and measuring are more accurate.
Table-Saw. Ya it would be nice for those plywood cuts. But heck it is
going to be covered up by siding or singles anyways. :)
Chris