Is there a required or desired type of paint (not brand but TYPE) of paint
that should be used for surfaces that food will be served on? I'm gonna be
painting my dining room table and was wondering if this was a job for oil
based satin finish or latex flat finish or paint then a coat of varnish or
some other obscure combination. I'm guessing satin or gloss finish due to
the increased durability with regards to washing, but wasn't sure if oil was
preferred to latex or whether it would be best to avoid paint altogether for
health reasons.
On Jul 18, 8:39=A0pm, "Eigenvector" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Is there a required or desired type of paint (not brand but TYPE) of pain=
t
> that should be used for surfaces that food will be served on? =A0I'm gonn=
a be
> painting my dining room table and was wondering if this was a job for oil
> based satin finish or latex flat finish or paint then a coat of varnish o=
r
> some other obscure combination. =A0I'm guessing satin or gloss finish due=
to
> the increased durability with regards to washing, but wasn't sure if oil =
was
> preferred to latex or whether it would be best to avoid paint altogether =
for
> health reasons.
Hello Eigen,
I know this does not answer your question exactly as you ask it but
there is a product manufactured by Genral Finishes called Salad Bowl
Finish and I think it is rated by the FDA (or is that the CIA) as
being safe for eating utensils and surfaces when dry. Woodcraft sells
it and here is their link;
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3D752
Hope this helps,
Marc
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:cc31fd9f-3f6b-4ce1-933c-7fe6229ec864@e53g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> We are on kind of old turf here, so to be blunt:
Yeah I knew this would be an old hat question. But honestly I had a
difficult time finding a useful answer using Google. The tendency to put
advertising responses first makes it really tough to slog through to the
generic answers. How you phrase the question really effects the answers it
puts out.
I'm finding that search engine to be less and less useful as time goes by.
>
> - Will anyone be eating the dried paint?
> - Will anyone be eating off the table top?
> - Will you be using lead based paint to finish?
>
> If the answer is "no", don't worry about poisoning yourself, or even
> making yourself sick.
>
> In general terms, solvent based paints dry harder than latex. So do
> the solvent based clear coats (lacquers, polys, etc.). Solvent based
> paints are also significantly more cleanable.
>
> An industrial grade colored oil based coating (enamel) sold at a real
> paint store will dry harder than you will believe. About three coats
> of that stuff will give you what you seek, which is a washable surface
> with great abrasion resistance. I use different brands for high usage
> surfaces like handrails, restaurant doors, etc., when the clients want
> color.
>
> Clear coats such as lacquer and poly don't really get hard until you
> get into the two part systems that you catalyze before using. These
> finishes are not for the inexperienced.
>
> And in general terms, high gloss finishes will be the hardest, most
> abrasion resistant finishes. When you apply the high gloss version,
> you have the least silica, zinc, clay, or whatever else the
> manufacturer puts in the finish to dull its reflectivity, leaving you
> with pretty much the cured resin as the end product.
>
> Robert
>
Thanks, I'll talk to the paint store guys and see what they suggest. I have
a good working relationship with a real good paintstore, but I like to have
some idea of what I'm looking for before going in.
We are on kind of old turf here, so to be blunt:
- Will anyone be eating the dried paint?
- Will anyone be eating off the table top?
- Will you be using lead based paint to finish?
If the answer is "no", don't worry about poisoning yourself, or even
making yourself sick.
In general terms, solvent based paints dry harder than latex. So do
the solvent based clear coats (lacquers, polys, etc.). Solvent based
paints are also significantly more cleanable.
An industrial grade colored oil based coating (enamel) sold at a real
paint store will dry harder than you will believe. About three coats
of that stuff will give you what you seek, which is a washable surface
with great abrasion resistance. I use different brands for high usage
surfaces like handrails, restaurant doors, etc., when the clients want
color.
Clear coats such as lacquer and poly don't really get hard until you
get into the two part systems that you catalyze before using. These
finishes are not for the inexperienced.
And in general terms, high gloss finishes will be the hardest, most
abrasion resistant finishes. When you apply the high gloss version,
you have the least silica, zinc, clay, or whatever else the
manufacturer puts in the finish to dull its reflectivity, leaving you
with pretty much the cured resin as the end product.
Robert
Eigenvector wrote:
> Is there a required or desired type of paint (not brand but TYPE) of
> paint that should be used for surfaces that food will be served on?
> I'm gonna be painting my dining room table and was wondering if this
> was a job for oil based satin finish or latex flat finish or paint
> then a coat of varnish or some other obscure combination. I'm
> guessing satin or gloss finish due to the increased durability with
> regards to washing, but wasn't sure if oil was preferred to latex or
> whether it would be best to avoid paint altogether for health
> reasons.
Use a polyurethane or a precatalyzed lacquer. If it's not actually in
contact with food, health isn't the issue, the issue is cleaning--you
want something that doesn't stain easily.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
"Eigenvector" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is there a required or desired type of paint (not brand but TYPE) of paint
> that should be used for surfaces that food will be served on? I'm gonna
> be painting my dining room table and was wondering if this was a job for
> oil based satin finish or latex flat finish or paint then a coat of
> varnish or some other obscure combination. I'm guessing satin or gloss
> finish due to the increased durability with regards to washing, but wasn't
> sure if oil was preferred to latex or whether it would be best to avoid
> paint altogether for health reasons.
Any paint will do that is manufactured in the USA. All american paints are
safe once they are dry (not including some artists paints). So oil based,
latex enamal etc are fine. If you are going for a artsy look just go for
it, if you are going for durbility see above posts