After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece of
pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the Black Walnut I
have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know what I'm referring.
Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I will use oil and thus, the
reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended? Especially
something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I assume most
oil will suffice in that area?
Thanks
"Meanie" wrote:
> After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece
> of pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the
> Black Walnut I have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know
> what I'm referring. Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I
> will use oil and thus, the reason for this thread is to ask what
> oils are recommended? Especially something I can use on other types
> of woods as well, though I assume most oil will suffice in that
> area?
--------------------------------------------
My weapon of choice is boiled linseed oil.
Lew
I wrote:
> My weapon of choice is boiled linseed oil.
-------------------------------------------------
"Meanie" wrote:
> Is it sold as "boiled" or is it actually linseed oil which you boil?
----------------------------------------------------
"Boiled linseed oil" is sold as a stand alone product.
They tell you to cut it with a thinner for application.
I use turpentire because I like the smell.
Sounds crazy, but that's me.
Have fun.
Lew
On Dec 26, 6:30=A0pm, "Meanie" <[email protected]> wrote:
> After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece of
> pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the Black Walnu=
t I
> have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know what I'm referring.
> Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I will use oil and thus, the
> reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended? Especially
> something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I assume most
> oil will suffice in that area?
>
> Thanks
If you want oil, you can do better with varnish cut
50% and applied the same way -- flood, wait 10 minutes,
wipe back, let dry, light rub with steel wool, repeat. Costs
less than Danish oil and builds faster, won't need to
be re-oiled every year.
On Dec 27, 8:47=A0am, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/26/2012 6:30 PM, Meanie wrote:
>
> > After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece of
> > pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the Black Wal=
nut I
> > have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know what I'm referring.
> > Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I will use oil and thus, th=
e
> > reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended? Especially
> > something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I assume mo=
st
> > oil will suffice in that area?
>
> I recommend clear shellac, but any clear finish will work fine. =A0Lacque=
r
> is also great. =A0Shellac will dry fast and will turn walnut from milk
> chocolate to dark chocolate. =A0For something that small I would probably
> buy a spray can of clear lacquer if that was all I was doing. =A0Myself, =
I
> always have a can of shellac on hand, and would apply it with a small
> piece of rag I could toss when done. After a couple coats of shellac I
> would hit it with some fine steel wool for a silky smooth finish.
Orange/amber shellac is great on walnut, gives it a
warmer tone. Cut to 1 lb, shoot on 4 quick coats, let
cure a week, top off with paste wax. 1 lb shellac levels
out beautifully, probably won't even need steel wool.
> BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) is also great. =A0BLO has a yellow cast to it
> that is nice with some woods but not needed for walnut, so I would use
> just clear shellac or lacquer.
>
> Here is a wedding goblet I made beside the walnut log. =A0The goblet has =
a
> couple coats of clear shellac, so you can see how dark the walnut became
> with nothing but shellac. =A0 I finish lathe stuff on the lathe with just
> small piece of rag dipped in shellac. =A0Toss the rag when done, no muss,
> no fuss.
Walnut + shellac =3D classic combination.
"tommyboy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 18:30:57 -0500, "Meanie" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I will use oil and thus, the
>>reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended? Especially
>>something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I assume most
>>oil will suffice in that area?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>
> I'd use wax, not oil.
Any type of wax?
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Meanie" wrote:
>
>> After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece of
>> pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the Black
>> Walnut I have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know what I'm
>> referring. Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I will use oil and
>> thus, the reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended?
>> Especially something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I
>> assume most oil will suffice in that area?
> --------------------------------------------
> My weapon of choice is boiled linseed oil.
>
> Lew
>
>
Is it sold as "boiled" or is it actually linseed oil which you boil?
>
Meanie wrote:
> After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece
> of pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the
> Black Walnut I have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know
> what I'm referring. Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I
> will use oil and thus, the reason for this thread is to ask what oils
> are recommended? Especially something I can use on other types of
> woods as well, though I assume most oil will suffice in that area?
Motor oil would not be good. Neither would "mineral" oil. Neither would
raw linseed oil (takes too long to dry).
Any drying oil such as boiled linseed oil, tung oil and other relatively
esoteric ones will work fine.
Be aware that BLO darkens much as it cures/ages. On dark woods that isn't
particularly noticeable unless it has been poorly sanded thereby allowing
more oil to stay on.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 12/26/2012 6:30 PM, Meanie wrote:
> After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece of
> pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the Black Walnut I
> have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know what I'm referring.
> Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I will use oil and thus, the
> reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended? Especially
> something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I assume most
> oil will suffice in that area?
I recommend clear shellac, but any clear finish will work fine. Lacquer
is also great. Shellac will dry fast and will turn walnut from milk
chocolate to dark chocolate. For something that small I would probably
buy a spray can of clear lacquer if that was all I was doing. Myself, I
always have a can of shellac on hand, and would apply it with a small
piece of rag I could toss when done. After a couple coats of shellac I
would hit it with some fine steel wool for a silky smooth finish.
BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) is also great. BLO has a yellow cast to it
that is nice with some woods but not needed for walnut, so I would use
just clear shellac or lacquer.
Here is a wedding goblet I made beside the walnut log. The goblet has a
couple coats of clear shellac, so you can see how dark the walnut became
with nothing but shellac. I finish lathe stuff on the lathe with just
small piece of rag dipped in shellac. Toss the rag when done, no muss,
no fuss.
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
Forgot the attach the link to the pic:
http://jbstein.com/Flick/GobP1050459.jpg
On 12/27/2012 8:47 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 12/26/2012 6:30 PM, Meanie wrote:
>> After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece of
>> pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the Black
>> Walnut I
>> have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know what I'm referring.
>> Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I will use oil and thus, the
>> reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended? Especially
>> something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I assume most
>> oil will suffice in that area?
>
> I recommend clear shellac, but any clear finish will work fine. Lacquer
> is also great. Shellac will dry fast and will turn walnut from milk
> chocolate to dark chocolate. For something that small I would probably
> buy a spray can of clear lacquer if that was all I was doing. Myself, I
> always have a can of shellac on hand, and would apply it with a small
> piece of rag I could toss when done. After a couple coats of shellac I
> would hit it with some fine steel wool for a silky smooth finish.
>
> BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) is also great. BLO has a yellow cast to it
> that is nice with some woods but not needed for walnut, so I would use
> just clear shellac or lacquer.
>
> Here is a wedding goblet I made beside the walnut log. The goblet has a
> couple coats of clear shellac, so you can see how dark the walnut became
> with nothing but shellac. I finish lathe stuff on the lathe with just
> small piece of rag dipped in shellac. Toss the rag when done, no muss,
> no fuss.
>
>
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I wrote:
>
>> My weapon of choice is boiled linseed oil.
> -------------------------------------------------
> "Meanie" wrote:
>
>
>> Is it sold as "boiled" or is it actually linseed oil which you boil?
> ----------------------------------------------------
> "Boiled linseed oil" is sold as a stand alone product.
>
> They tell you to cut it with a thinner for application.
>
> I use turpentire because I like the smell.
>
> Sounds crazy, but that's me.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>
LOL...I wanna be in your world.
Thanks
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Meanie wrote:
>> After making the sample Shawl Pin, which turned out nice for a piece
>> of pine, I decided to go further and make more using much of the
>> Black Walnut I have. Those who read the Shawl Pin topic, will know
>> what I'm referring. Since Black Walnut is not a wood for stain, I
>> will use oil and thus, the reason for this thread is to ask what oils
>> are recommended? Especially something I can use on other types of
>> woods as well, though I assume most oil will suffice in that area?
>
>
> Motor oil would not be good. Neither would "mineral" oil. Neither would
> raw linseed oil (takes too long to dry).
>
> Any drying oil such as boiled linseed oil, tung oil and other relatively
> esoteric ones will work fine.
>
> Be aware that BLO darkens much as it cures/ages. On dark woods that isn't
> particularly noticeable unless it has been poorly sanded thereby allowing
> more oil to stay on.
>
> --
>
Thank you>
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I recommend clear shellac, but any clear finish will work fine. Lacquer
> is also great. Shellac will dry fast and will turn walnut from milk
> chocolate to dark chocolate. For something that small I would probably
> buy a spray can of clear lacquer if that was all I was doing. Myself, I
> always have a can of shellac on hand, and would apply it with a small
> piece of rag I could toss when done. After a couple coats of shellac I
> would hit it with some fine steel wool for a silky smooth finish.
>
> BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) is also great. BLO has a yellow cast to it that
> is nice with some woods but not needed for walnut, so I would use just
> clear shellac or lacquer.
>
> Here is a wedding goblet I made beside the walnut log. The goblet has a
> couple coats of clear shellac, so you can see how dark the walnut became
> with nothing but shellac. I finish lathe stuff on the lathe with just
> small piece of rag dipped in shellac. Toss the rag when done, no muss, no
> fuss.
>
Beautiful goblet. I'm particularly fascinated at the two rings on the stem.
I assume the rings are one piece and you did all on the lathe?
"Sonny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Jack, I can't find your goblet in your photo gallery. Give a link.
>
> Sonny
Oh oh, the pressure is on. Will do...unless they turn out bad...lol.
On 12/27/2012 11:01 AM, Meanie wrote:
> "Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Here is a wedding goblet I made beside the walnut log. The goblet has a
>> couple coats of clear shellac, so you can see how dark the walnut became
>> with nothing but shellac. I finish lathe stuff on the lathe with just
>> small piece of rag dipped in shellac. Toss the rag when done, no muss, no
>> fuss.
>>
> Beautiful goblet. I'm particularly fascinated at the two rings on the stem.
> I assume the rings are one piece and you did all on the lathe?
Thanks, it's an Irish wedding goblet I made for my daughter's recent
wedding. Cut it out of a hunk of Walnut log I salvaged from a neighbors
black walnut tree. I tried to tell her she could get good cash for that
tree, but she ignored me. It's now firewood and lathe wood. What a
shame, the wood is gorgeous.
The rings are one piece and done all on the lathe. Very easy to do,
just cut a bead then undercut the bead. Tape the rings to one end of
the stem as you cut them loose. Sand them best you can before cutting
the suckers loose...
I made a small square box out of it as well with a "firewood" maple
hinged lid. The maple lid I think is silver maple from my yard.
http://jbstein.com/Flick/boxP1030144.jpg
http://jbstein.com/Flick/boxP1030209.jpg
The box and lid are unstained and just shellacked, although I think I
sprayed the box. It's impossible not to rub the box anytime you get
close to it.
I've found shellac is a super finish for Maple and Walnut firewood:-)
--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com
On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 18:30:57 -0500, "Meanie" <[email protected]> wrote:
I will use oil and thus, the
>reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended? Especially
>something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I assume most
>oil will suffice in that area?
>
>Thanks
>
I'd use wax, not oil.
tommyboy wrote:
> On Wed, 26 Dec 2012 18:30:57 -0500, "Meanie"<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I will use oil and thus, the
>>reason for this thread is to ask what oils are recommended? Especially
>>something I can use on other types of woods as well, though I assume most
>>oil will suffice in that area?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>
> I'd use wax, not oil.
If you use an oil, use a "drying" oil. That is, an oil that oxidizes
an becomes a stable substance. Linseed oil would work. I prefer tung
oil. My favorite is the catalyzed tung oil that Lee Valley sells.
Most vegetable oil does not harden, and may become rancid. You would
not want to use olive oil, cottonseed oil, etc. Mineral oil is inert
but it never dries.
--
G.W. Ross
Of course I'm sane. The voices said so.