Large Frame for Painting

On Nov 28, 1:50 pm, [email protected] (J T) wrote:
> Wed, Nov 28, 2007, 10:25am (EST-3) [email protected] (jeffgee)
> doth sayeth:
> I need to build a 4' X 6' frame for a painting. <snip>
>
> OK, I want to know what the painting is? Dogs playing cards?
> Elvis? Those are the only subjects that immediately come to mind for a
> painting that size.
>
> JOAT
> You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
> "know"?.
> - Granny Weatherwax

It's that really cool one with all the dead people on the old chevy.

Actually, it's a pretty sweet oil of a Venice (Italy) street scene.

Wed, Nov 28, 2007, 10:25am (EST-3) [email protected] (jeffgee)
doth sayeth:
I need to build a 4' X 6' frame for a painting. <snip>

OK, I want to know what the painting is? Dogs playing cards?
Elvis? Those are the only subjects that immediately come to mind for a
painting that size.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
"know"?.
- Granny Weatherwax

On Nov 28, 2:17 pm, "dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote:
> jeffgee wrote:
> > I need to build a 4' X 6' frame for a painting. I have no idea where
> > to start. I have stretched the painting onto a 1by frame.
>
> > Issues: How do I fasten the outer frame to the painting? I don't
> > want to have a huge piece of lumber with a 1" rabbet since it will
> > be rather heavy but if that's the method then so be it.
>
> You need enough of a rabbet to contain the stretcher and keep it from
> slopping around laterally but it need not be the full depth of the
> stretcher. Or even close to it.
>
> There are spring clips made for holding the stretcher within the
> rabbet. Been years since I saw one and I don't recall exactly how
> they function but they are maybe 3/8" wide and 2 1/2 - 3" long. Brads
> diagonally into the stretcher is another way. Still another is to use
> strips of thin, narrow metal stock and bend them into "Z"s so they can
> be attached to both stretcher and frame back with brads or small
> screws. Regardless of the manner used to secure the stretcher in the
> frame, you don't need a whole bunch...2-3 per side should be plenty.
> ________________
>
> > what are good materials to use? I was looking at pre-made molding
> > since I don't have a shaper. I might also go with pine and do a
> > table saw cove cut.
>
> You can use about anything. Including plywood. A piece of ply can
> have an appropriately sized hole cut in it...the ply can be
> upholstered or covered with wall paper or texture paint...make the
> back "rabbet" by fastening wood strips to the ply...finish inside and
> outside edges with strips of wood.
>
> Don't like that? OK, use four pieces of wood and doweled butt joints.
> Or half laps. Or bridle joints.
>
> Or you can screw around with standard miters, bevels and the like :)
> _______________
>
> > Has anyone seen some plans or suggestions online? I have done a few
> > searches but have not found anything.
>
> Browse away...http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=custom+picture+frame&um=1&ie=U
> TF-8&sa=N&tab=wi
> ________________
>
> > I have assured SWMBO that it will be framed before the holiday
> > guests arrive so any help/suggestions/commiseration would be
> > appreciated.
>
> Think outside the box and make something interesting that is
> appropriate both to the painting and your home.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Very good. Thanks so much

On Nov 28, 12:32 pm, "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote:
> jeffgee wrote:
> > I need to build a 4' X 6' frame for a painting. I have no idea where
> > to start. I have stretched the painting onto a 1by frame.
>
> > Issues: How do I fasten the outer frame to the painting? I don't
> > want
> > to have a huge piece of lumber with a 1" rabbet since it will be
> > rather heavy but if that's the method then so be it.
>
> If it's on a 1x stretcher then you need a frame deep enough to hold
> it.
>
> > what are good materials to use? I was looking at pre-made molding
> > since I don't have a shaper. I might also go with pine and do a
> > table
> > saw cove cut.
>
> > Has anyone seen some plans or suggestions online? I have done a few
> > searches but have not found anything.
>
> > I have assured SWMBO that it will be framed before the holiday
> > guests
> > arrive so any help/suggestions/commiseration would be appreciated.
>
> Your three big problems with framing are getting good, precise, clean
> miters in the corners (this is one time that there is _no_ slack
> because people are going to be standing close to it in a good light),
> getting the frame square, and getting reliable joints.
>
> I strongly recommend making a smaller frame out of scrap wood first to
> get the technique down.
>
> As for mounting the painting in the frame, normally brads are used.
> There's a ten buck tool purpose made for setting them--its main
> advantage is that it cuts way down on the number of ways that you can
> slip and tear the painting.http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5337is one example.
> Any major art supply store should have something equivalent. There
> are also purpose made "points" that need a special tool for
> insertion--I don't think you really need to worry about them. There
> are "v-nails" that are intended to hold the corners together--on small
> frames they work, I wouldn't trust them on one the size of yours.
>
> Now, another suggestion--if there's a Woodcraft near you see if they
> have a copy of the January 2007 issue of "Woodcraft Magazine". It
> shows how to make a very nice but somewhat unusual frame that doesn't
> have any miter joints--you can make it entirely on the table saw. It
> uses half-lap joints rather than miters, so it's strong as all getout,
> and if you make it with sufficient precision then it's pretty much
> self-squaring. You could order the back issue but if you need the
> frame done by Christmas you're tight on time.
>
> --
> --
> --John
> to email, dial "usenet" and validate
> (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

thanks. Actually it will be high above the fireplace so the standing
close won't be as much of an issue as previous frames I've made but
tightness of joints will still be an issue.
I seems as if maybe you misunderstood the fastening part. I have one
of those little plier looking things and the black tabs for holding
pics and glass and cardboard in my smaller frames but this thing is 4
feet by 6 feet. Those little foldable tabs will surely not come close
to holding it in.
I have constructed quite a few "normal" sized frames and have the
process pretty well in hand, it's just that this thing is a) going to
be huge in comparison and b) not going to lay flat like the smaller
frames but will be angled in our out much like crown molding.
I'll check out that issue. I do have a woodcraft close by.
thanks for your suggestions

jeffgee wrote:
> I need to build a 4' X 6' frame for a painting. I have no idea where
> to start. I have stretched the painting onto a 1by frame.
>
> Issues: How do I fasten the outer frame to the painting? I don't
> want
> to have a huge piece of lumber with a 1" rabbet since it will be
> rather heavy but if that's the method then so be it.

If it's on a 1x stretcher then you need a frame deep enough to hold
it.

> what are good materials to use? I was looking at pre-made molding
> since I don't have a shaper. I might also go with pine and do a
> table
> saw cove cut.
>
> Has anyone seen some plans or suggestions online? I have done a few
> searches but have not found anything.
>
> I have assured SWMBO that it will be framed before the holiday
> guests
> arrive so any help/suggestions/commiseration would be appreciated.

Your three big problems with framing are getting good, precise, clean
miters in the corners (this is one time that there is _no_ slack
because people are going to be standing close to it in a good light),
getting the frame square, and getting reliable joints.

I strongly recommend making a smaller frame out of scrap wood first to
get the technique down.

As for mounting the painting in the frame, normally brads are used.
There's a ten buck tool purpose made for setting them--its main
advantage is that it cuts way down on the number of ways that you can
slip and tear the painting.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5337 is one example.
Any major art supply store should have something equivalent. There
are also purpose made "points" that need a special tool for
insertion--I don't think you really need to worry about them. There
are "v-nails" that are intended to hold the corners together--on small
frames they work, I wouldn't trust them on one the size of yours.

Now, another suggestion--if there's a Woodcraft near you see if they
have a copy of the January 2007 issue of "Woodcraft Magazine". It
shows how to make a very nice but somewhat unusual frame that doesn't
have any miter joints--you can make it entirely on the table saw. It
uses half-lap joints rather than miters, so it's strong as all getout,
and if you make it with sufficient precision then it's pretty much
self-squaring. You could order the back issue but if you need the
frame done by Christmas you're tight on time.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

jeffgee wrote:
> I need to build a 4' X 6' frame for a painting. I have no idea where
> to start. I have stretched the painting onto a 1by frame.
>
> Issues: How do I fasten the outer frame to the painting? I don't
> want to have a huge piece of lumber with a 1" rabbet since it will
> be rather heavy but if that's the method then so be it.

You need enough of a rabbet to contain the stretcher and keep it from
slopping around laterally but it need not be the full depth of the
stretcher. Or even close to it.

There are spring clips made for holding the stretcher within the
rabbet. Been years since I saw one and I don't recall exactly how
they function but they are maybe 3/8" wide and 2 1/2 - 3" long. Brads
diagonally into the stretcher is another way. Still another is to use
strips of thin, narrow metal stock and bend them into "Z"s so they can
be attached to both stretcher and frame back with brads or small
screws. Regardless of the manner used to secure the stretcher in the
frame, you don't need a whole bunch...2-3 per side should be plenty.
________________

> what are good materials to use? I was looking at pre-made molding
> since I don't have a shaper. I might also go with pine and do a
> table saw cove cut.

You can use about anything. Including plywood. A piece of ply can
have an appropriately sized hole cut in it...the ply can be
upholstered or covered with wall paper or texture paint...make the
back "rabbet" by fastening wood strips to the ply...finish inside and
outside edges with strips of wood.

Don't like that? OK, use four pieces of wood and doweled butt joints.
Or half laps. Or bridle joints.

Or you can screw around with standard miters, bevels and the like :)
_______________

> Has anyone seen some plans or suggestions online? I have done a few
> searches but have not found anything.

Browse away...
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=custom+picture+frame&um=1&ie=U
TF-8&sa=N&tab=wi
________________

> I have assured SWMBO that it will be framed before the holiday
> guests arrive so any help/suggestions/commiseration would be
> appreciated.

Think outside the box and make something interesting that is
appropriate both to the painting and your home.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico