I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
a mere 3.
So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine,
it's been 2 hours.
I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.
Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?
In article <[email protected]>,
Never Enough Money <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
> top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
> a mere 3.
Why do you think the oil manufacturer is lying?
--
~ Stay Calm... Be Brave... Wait for the Signs ~
In article <[email protected]>,
Never Enough Money <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ever just get
> tired of working on a piece and want it DONE?
That's the time to shut the shop down and go for a beer.
--
~ Stay Calm... Be Brave... Wait for the Signs ~
On 4 Apr 2005 18:02:32 -0700, "Never Enough Money" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Don't think hockey players wear underwear --
That was way more information than I needed. =:-0
> that's what I've been
>told.
> He's drying mostly pads.
That's a perfect straight-line if I've ever seen one. Nope, not gonna
stoop to that level, uh-uh, nosirree.
>
>I said it was NOT fine furniture. I'll add that's it's not an eye sore
>either.
Regarding your question, I would be concerned that if the Danish oil had
not had enough time to fully cure, the poly may not adhere well to the
surface.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm
building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.
It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer
paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey
clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.
Not fine funrniture!
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
> top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
> a mere 3.
>
> So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine,
> it's been 2 hours.
>
> I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.
>
> Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?
>
Why did you put danish oil on if you were going to top coat with poly?
I normally wait 12 hours. If you do it sooner, the solvent just picks up
the previous coat; sometimes giving really lousy results.
Danish oil, covered (too quickly) in poly? Why??
Dave
Never Enough Money wrote:
> I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
> top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
> a mere 3.
>
> So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine,
> it's been 2 hours.
>
> I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.
>
> Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?
>
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm
> building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.
>
> It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer
> paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey
> clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.
>
> Not fine funrniture!
>
As a hockey player myself and a wooddorker, I don't think it will much
matter what happens for this project. I didn't even put any finish at all
on my equipment drying rack. It will be fine.
Frank
On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 10:25:43 +0100, Andy Dingley <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 20:50:00 -0700, Mark & Juanita
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I've gotten very good results with Danish Oil followed by three coats of
>>Watco wipe-on poly on cherry
>
>But why use a danish oil (rather than a plain oil) if it's not the
>final layer ? It's tacky-dry more quickly, but the oil still doesn't
>cure any faster.
When I was doing test pieces, I found that the Danish oil imparted a
better effect in pulling out the figure of the wood than any of the oils I
tried. I didn't want to use BLO because I was not wanting to take a chance
on the oil yellowing over time.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Never Enough Money wrote:
> Don't think hockey players wear underwear -- that's what I've been
> told. He's drying mostly pads.
>
I always did. <G> To be exact, Coolmax, silk, or polypropelene. Not
to mention a cup / supporter. However, I WASHED those every time!
Equipment racks are for pads and hockey pants.
Barry
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm
> building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.
>
> It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer
> paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey
> clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.
>
> Not fine funrniture!
>
Danish Oil? Poly? Oak Veneer? For drying jock straps?
Will the fan at least be vented to the outside? 'Course then he might have
to deal with neighbors or the EPA! :o)
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
> top coat of polyurathane. The Danish oil can says to wait 72 hours, not
> a mere 3.
>
> So what is the effect of only waiting 3? So far everything looks fine,
> it's been 2 hours.
>
> I can't undo it now but was just wondering what to expect.
>
> Tomorrow, I'll add another coat of poly, or should I wait, say 72?
>
Why are you in such of a hurry?
Jim
"Never Enough Money" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Just impatient. I've been procrastinating on finishing this thing I'm
> building for my son to dry his hockey clothes.
>
> It's a big box looking thing made od a redwood carcass with oak veneer
> paneling. It has a fan inside which sucks air across the sweaty hockey
> clothes. It'll be stored in his garge or his laundry room.
>
> Not fine funrniture!
>
Then why not water based paint? This stuff dries in an hour or less.
Jim
On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 01:45:08 +0100, Andy Dingley <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 3 Apr 2005 16:48:49 -0700, "Never Enough Money"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
>>top coat of polyurathane.
>
>You'll get an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane, rather
>than an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane.
>
>Strictly you'll prevent the danish oil from curing (depending somewhat
>on what sort of varnish this "danish" oil was mixed with). This will
>reduce the quality of the bond between the overlying polyurethane
>varnish film and the underlying timber. So you might reduce its wear
>behaviour, in case you happened to care.
>
>In terms of what it looks like, I doubt you'll see any difference
>(hey, why not _try_ it and learn for sure?). But I wouldn't ever
>overcoat danish oil anyway, nor would I oil beneath poly. If I were
>going to use an oil and shellac finish (probably my most common) then
>I'd use tung oil rather than danish oil, and I'd use shellac rather
>than plastic mud.
I've gotten very good results with Danish Oil followed by three coats of
Watco wipe-on poly on cherry for my entertainment center. My normal finish
preference for cherry is polymerized tung oil, but the entertainment center
was too large a project to make that finish schedule practical. The
wipe-on poly doesn't leave that coated in plastic look, and followed with a
good coat of wax, the figure of the wood really stands out.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
On 3 Apr 2005 16:48:49 -0700, "Never Enough Money"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just put a coat of Danish oil on a piece, waited 3 hours and put a
>top coat of polyurathane.
You'll get an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane, rather
than an ugly thing covered in a skin of polyurethane.
Strictly you'll prevent the danish oil from curing (depending somewhat
on what sort of varnish this "danish" oil was mixed with). This will
reduce the quality of the bond between the overlying polyurethane
varnish film and the underlying timber. So you might reduce its wear
behaviour, in case you happened to care.
In terms of what it looks like, I doubt you'll see any difference
(hey, why not _try_ it and learn for sure?). But I wouldn't ever
overcoat danish oil anyway, nor would I oil beneath poly. If I were
going to use an oil and shellac finish (probably my most common) then
I'd use tung oil rather than danish oil, and I'd use shellac rather
than plastic mud.
On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 20:50:00 -0700, Mark & Juanita
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I've gotten very good results with Danish Oil followed by three coats of
>Watco wipe-on poly on cherry
But why use a danish oil (rather than a plain oil) if it's not the
final layer ? It's tacky-dry more quickly, but the oil still doesn't
cure any faster.