I was at our local wood sales place, and I noticed they had a big stack of
white oak (not quarter sawn) flooring 4" x 6 to 8" random lengths. We talked
with the sales people, and they said they milled out a bunch to test water, and
it didn't sell well. My question is, does it need to be end matched? This
doesn't, but I think this narrow of strips that it won't be necessary. I like
the nice wide boards, and the long lengths, and the price is $55.00 per bundle
of 20 square feet, so I think it is pretty reasonable. What do you think about
the end matching? We are going to call Monday and see if they want to give us
a deal on clearing out their inventory.
Thanks!
Greetings and Salutations....
On Sun, 09 Jan 2005 17:55:22 GMT, "Chuck Hoffman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm not sure what you mean by end matching but if you're talking about nice
>tight butt joints, that can be done by setting up a power miter box with a
>good sharp blade and extension tables on both sides. Don't change the
>settings at all during the job. Make sure that every board is oriented as
>it would be on the floor and that every end that forms a butt joint is
>trimmed with the miter saw. IOW, trim the left side of the joint from the
>left table and the right side from the right table. That way - even if the
>saw is a little off square - all the butt joints should line up perfectly.
This seems like a pretty good way, but a tad finicky. I think
I would set the miter box to a slight angle...say...10 degrees, and
cut a "scarf" joint. That is...assuming I did not take the
time to biscuit the ends. The "scarf" joint will work to ensure
that even if the joint opens a bit, it will be less obvious.
However, I suspect that is overkill for a floor. After all,
the fact of the matter is that there are not that many folks that are
going to take a micrometer to the ends of the boards to see
how wide the gaps are.
Regards
Dave Mundt
I'm not sure what you mean by end matching but if you're talking about nice
tight butt joints, that can be done by setting up a power miter box with a
good sharp blade and extension tables on both sides. Don't change the
settings at all during the job. Make sure that every board is oriented as
it would be on the floor and that every end that forms a butt joint is
trimmed with the miter saw. IOW, trim the left side of the joint from the
left table and the right side from the right table. That way - even if the
saw is a little off square - all the butt joints should line up perfectly.
"ToolMiser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I was at our local wood sales place, and I noticed they had a big stack
of
> white oak (not quarter sawn) flooring 4" x 6 to 8" random lengths. We
talked
> with the sales people, and they said they milled out a bunch to test
water, and
> it didn't sell well. My question is, does it need to be end matched?
This
> doesn't, but I think this narrow of strips that it won't be necessary. I
like
> the nice wide boards, and the long lengths, and the price is $55.00 per
bundle
> of 20 square feet, so I think it is pretty reasonable. What do you think
about
> the end matching? We are going to call Monday and see if they want to
give us
> a deal on clearing out their inventory.
>
> Thanks!