Floor medallion

Inlay before sanding floors.
Martin

On 3/19/2017 8:44 AM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
> Fifteen years ago I rebuilt my house and had new hardwood floors installed. They are red oak (3/4”) over a plywood (3/4”) subfloor. Well it’s time to have them refinished, but before I do, I’d like to build a medallion and inlay it into an area of my floor.
>
> I may do more than one, but the first one I am considering would be for an area about 30“ square. The inlay material is not yet decided, but will probably be maple, cherry and walnut. Perhaps some others yet to be named (purple heart). I haven’t yet decided on the pattern (researching now) nor the shape (round, square, rectangle, diamond), but here is the technique I am considering:
>
> 1. Freeze the dimensions and shape.
> 2. Create a template for the actual inlay size, probably from MDF.
> 3. Use a router and the template to cut the outline of the inlay into the floor as deep as the red oak (about 3/4”) and remove the red oak in the field of the inlay.
> 4. Measure the height if the existing floor above the subfloor and determine the maximum value.
> 5. Secure a quality, flat piece of 3/8” plywood a little larger than the template opening and measure its thickness.
> 6. Plane the hardwood for the inlay to a thickness (around 3/8”) such that when it’s glued to the 3/8” plywood, it will be just proud of the existing floor.
> 7. Cut the pieces for the inlay and glue them to the plywood. I intend that the glue cover the whole surface of the plywood.
> 8. Use the template and router to trim the inlay assembly to the size of the opening I routed in the floor.
> 9. Coat the subfloor with glue and then insert the inlay into the floor opening. Apply weight until the glue dries.
> 10. If all goes as planned, the inlay should be just proud of the existing floor and the floor finishing people can hit the area with a final sanding to make it flush before the new finish is applied.
>
> I may be making a mistake thinking than wood expansion will not be an issue because I am gluing onto plywood and then gluing the plywood onto more plywood. I would like to hear from others whether they would be comfortable with this technique or whether they see problems.
>
> Thanks, Bill Leonhardt
>

Bill Leonhardt <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Fifteen years ago I rebuilt my house and had new hardwood floors
> installed. They are red oak (3/4”) over a plywood (3/4”)
> subfloor.

> I may be making a mistake thinking than wood expansion will not be an
> issue because I am gluing onto plywood and then gluing the plywood
> onto more plywood.

Is the oak flooring glued to the plywood subfloor or nailed
(or stapled)? If it's not glued, and you do glue a 30" wide
block of plywood in the middle, that might be an issue.

If everything is glued it doesn't seem like there'd be a
problem - everything should move together if it moves at
all.

John

On Sunday, March 19, 2017 at 8:44:41 AM UTC-5, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
> Fifteen years ago I rebuilt my house and had new hardwood floors installe=
d. They are red oak (3/4=E2=80=9D) over a plywood (3/4=E2=80=9D) subfloor.=
Well it=E2=80=99s time to have them refinished, but before I do, I=E2=80=
=99d like to build a medallion and inlay it into an area of my floor.
>=20
> I may do more than one, but the first one I am considering would be for a=
n area about 30=E2=80=9C square. The inlay material is not yet decided, bu=
t will probably be maple, cherry and walnut. Perhaps some others yet to be=
named (purple heart). I haven=E2=80=99t yet decided on the pattern (resea=
rching now) nor the shape (round, square, rectangle, diamond), but here is =
the technique I am considering:
>=20
> 1. Freeze the dimensions and shape.
> 2. Create a template for the actual inlay size, probably from MDF.
> 3. Use a router and the template to cut the outline of the inlay into t=
he floor as deep as the red oak (about 3/4=E2=80=9D) and remove the red oak=
in the field of the inlay.
> 4. Measure the height if the existing floor above the subfloor and dete=
rmine the maximum value.
> 5. Secure a quality, flat piece of 3/8=E2=80=9D plywood a little larger=
than the template opening and measure its thickness.
> 6. Plane the hardwood for the inlay to a thickness (around 3/8=E2=80=9D=
) such that when it=E2=80=99s glued to the 3/8=E2=80=9D plywood, it will be=
just proud of the existing floor.
> 7. Cut the pieces for the inlay and glue them to the plywood. I intend=
that the glue cover the whole surface of the plywood.
> 8. Use the template and router to trim the inlay assembly to the size o=
f the opening I routed in the floor.
> 9. Coat the subfloor with glue and then insert the inlay into the floor=
opening. Apply weight until the glue dries.
> 10. If all goes as planned, the inlay should be just proud of the exist=
ing floor and the floor finishing people can hit the area with a final sand=
ing to make it flush before the new finish is applied.
>=20
> I may be making a mistake thinking than wood expansion will not be an iss=
ue because I am gluing onto plywood and then gluing the plywood onto more p=
lywood. I would like to hear from others whether they would be comfortable=
with this technique or whether they see problems.
>=20
> Thanks, Bill Leonhardt

I've never attempted that thick of inlay... build from scratch or repair. =
To know more of the design/pattern/parts might help with analyzing, for mor=
e comment, insight or suggestions on my part.

For a 30" X 30" area, with multiple pieces of the "puzzle", I wouldn't thin=
k expansion and contraction should be much of an issue, since, I assume, th=
e room will be a relatively stable environment. However, for that thick of=
inlay, a slight bevel, inward, of/toward the bottom surface, might negate =
any serious expansion/contraction issues.

I suppose your plan/list is a rough outline. I assume you will be doing a=
good bit of dry fitting, among that listing, before committing to gluing.

Sonny

On 3/19/2017 9:44 AM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
> Fifteen years ago I rebuilt my house and had new hardwood floors installed. They are red oak (3/4”) over a plywood (3/4”) subfloor. Well it’s time to have them refinished, but before I do, I’d like to build a medallion and inlay it into an area of my floor.
>
> I may do more than one, but the first one I am considering would be for an area about 30“ square. The inlay material is not yet decided, but will probably be maple, cherry and walnut. Perhaps some others yet to be named (purple heart). I haven’t yet decided on the pattern (researching now) nor the shape (round, square, rectangle, diamond), but here is the technique I am considering:
>
> 1. Freeze the dimensions and shape.
> 2. Create a template for the actual inlay size, probably from MDF.
> 3. Use a router and the template to cut the outline of the inlay into the floor as deep as the red oak (about 3/4”) and remove the red oak in the field of the inlay.
> 4. Measure the height if the existing floor above the subfloor and determine the maximum value.
> 5. Secure a quality, flat piece of 3/8” plywood a little larger than the template opening and measure its thickness.
> 6. Plane the hardwood for the inlay to a thickness (around 3/8”) such that when it’s glued to the 3/8” plywood, it will be just proud of the existing floor.
> 7. Cut the pieces for the inlay and glue them to the plywood. I intend that the glue cover the whole surface of the plywood.
> 8. Use the template and router to trim the inlay assembly to the size of the opening I routed in the floor.
> 9. Coat the subfloor with glue and then insert the inlay into the floor opening. Apply weight until the glue dries.
> 10. If all goes as planned, the inlay should be just proud of the existing floor and the floor finishing people can hit the area with a final sanding to make it flush before the new finish is applied.
>
> I may be making a mistake thinking than wood expansion will not be an issue because I am gluing onto plywood and then gluing the plywood onto more plywood. I would like to hear from others whether they would be comfortable with this technique or whether they see problems.
>
> Thanks, Bill Leonhardt
>

You might have an issue cutting out the existing floor due to the nails
typically used with hardwood strips. Usually toe-nailed every 8"-10",
through the tongue of each board, so only about 1/4" under the surface.
Not something you want to hit with a router bit.