We've got about 500 CDs and although there's a lot more music in the
world to discover, we're not likely to be buying more on disc. So now is
a good time to build a cabinet to store them in. I'm trying to keep this
project manageably simple. (ha ha) Toward that end I am using glue-on
edge veneer rather than a face frame and I am trying to come up with an
easy finishing method as well. I will probably prefinish all of the parts.
The cabinet will be about 77"H x 20.5"W x 6.5" deep, with 12 shelves and
thus 13 horizontals including the top. And therein lies the problem: I
always get a little anxious about the glue-up part of any project, and
this one has 26 dado joints.
Here's the first dry-fit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/10897937616/in/set-72157637538534446/
(the sides are not cut down to length yet)
Even getting all those horizontals into their dadoes *dry* was a bit of
a juggling act. I held the first upright in position with some clamps
and put all of the shelves into their dadoes. That was easy enough. It
was of course getting the second side lined up that was tricky.
I'm considering fitting it all dry, getting it square, and then screwing
small blocks into the work surface one one side (or possibly both sides)
of each shelf so they'll all be aligned before I put on the second side.
I've seen people glue up things like this with the box on its side
rather than on its front, but I haven't tried that yet.
Any tips would be appreciated.
On 11/17/2013 6:01 PM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Saturday, November 16, 2013 9:44:15 PM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> We've got about 500 CDs ... build a cabinet to store them in. I'm trying to keep this
>> project manageably simple. (ha ha) Toward that end I am using glue-on
>> edge veneer rather than a face frame and I am trying to come up with an
>> easy finishing method as well. I will probably prefinish all of the parts.>
>>
>> The cabinet will be about 77"H x 20.5"W x 6.5" deep, with 12 shelves and
>> thus 13 horizontals including the top.
>
> There ought to be a back (maybe not full-height), to keep the shelves
> from racking; once thats nailed in place, the force on the glued
> spots that can still bother you is the spreading force on the face.
> These glue joints won't be terribly strong (end grain in the plywood, at parts of
> all surfaces that have the glue). You might benefit from using pocket screws,
> or prepping the shelves with a cemented-in vertical dowel and a horizontal
> screw through the side that bites into the dowel. I'd also consider drilling a hole
> through the sidewall into the shelf, and fitting a dowel (this makes a kind
> of afterthought version of a tenon).
>
> I'd consider edge-banding before assembly, the trimming of a veneer edge
> band is easier on a straight board. Contact cement sets up fast, it may be
> less expensive than the iron-on veneer options.
>
I disagree, the dadoes will be plenty strong, the ply will be fine.
This is overbuilt as it is. He could easily have gone for 1/2 or 3/8
shelves for this build.
This will be a tank, I agree on the back, but if it is not there the
number of cross members will have make this very strong .
--
Jeff
"Greg Guarino" wrote:
> I've seen people glue up things like this with the box on its side
> rather than on its front, but I haven't tried that yet.
>
> Any tips would be appreciated.
-----------------------------------------------
You could always pull a Norm and toe nail using 1-1/4 nails and
a brad nailer to keep pieces in the dado and square while the
adhesive dries.
Lew
On Saturday, November 16, 2013 9:44:15 PM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:
> We've got about 500 CDs ... build a cabinet to store them in. I'm trying to keep this
> project manageably simple. (ha ha) Toward that end I am using glue-on
> edge veneer rather than a face frame and I am trying to come up with an
> easy finishing method as well. I will probably prefinish all of the parts.>
>
> The cabinet will be about 77"H x 20.5"W x 6.5" deep, with 12 shelves and
> thus 13 horizontals including the top.
There ought to be a back (maybe not full-height), to keep the shelves
from racking; once thats nailed in place, the force on the glued
spots that can still bother you is the spreading force on the face.
These glue joints won't be terribly strong (end grain in the plywood, at parts of
all surfaces that have the glue). You might benefit from using pocket screws,
or prepping the shelves with a cemented-in vertical dowel and a horizontal
screw through the side that bites into the dowel. I'd also consider drilling a hole
through the sidewall into the shelf, and fitting a dowel (this makes a kind
of afterthought version of a tenon).
I'd consider edge-banding before assembly, the trimming of a veneer edge
band is easier on a straight board. Contact cement sets up fast, it may be
less expensive than the iron-on veneer options.
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> We've got about 500 CDs and although there's a lot more
> music in the world to discover, we're not likely to be
> buying more on disc. So now is a good time to build a
> cabinet to store them in. I'm trying to keep this project
> manageably simple. (ha ha) Toward that end I am using
> glue-on edge veneer rather than a face frame and I am
> trying to come up with an easy finishing method as well.
> I will probably prefinish all of the parts.
> The cabinet will be about 77"H x 20.5"W x 6.5" deep, with
> 12 shelves and thus 13 horizontals including the top. And
> therein lies the problem: I always get a little anxious
> about the glue-up part of any project, and this one has
> 26 dado joints.
> Here's the first dry-fit:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/10897937616/in/set-72157637538534446/
>
> (the sides are not cut down to length yet)
>
> Even getting all those horizontals into their dadoes
> *dry* was a bit of a juggling act. I held the first upright in position
> with
> some clamps and put all of the shelves into their dadoes. That was
> easy enough. It was of course getting the second side
> lined up that was tricky.
> I'm considering fitting it all dry, getting it square,
> and then screwing small blocks into the work surface one
> one side (or possibly both sides) of each shelf so
> they'll all be aligned before I put on the second side.
> I've seen people glue up things like this with the box on
> its side rather than on its front, but I haven't tried that yet.
>
> Any tips would be appreciated.
No need to glue up all at once. Make your box - sides, top, bottom, back -
and a couple of intermediate shelves to keep the sides spaced. Later on,
put in the remaining shelves. Too tight? Skinny them down a bit.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
"Greg Guarino" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>> We've got about 500 CDs and although there's a lot more
>> music in the world to discover, we're not likely to be
>> buying more on disc. So now is a good time to build a
>> cabinet to store them in. I'm trying to keep this project
>> manageably simple. (ha ha) Toward that end I am using
>> glue-on edge veneer rather than a face frame and I am
>> trying to come up with an easy finishing method as well.
>> I will probably prefinish all of the parts.
>> The cabinet will be about 77"H x 20.5"W x 6.5" deep, with
>> 12 shelves and thus 13 horizontals including the top. And
>> therein lies the problem: I always get a little anxious
>> about the glue-up part of any project, and this one has
>> 26 dado joints.
>> Here's the first dry-fit:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/10897937616/in/set-72157637538534446/
>>
>> (the sides are not cut down to length yet)
>>
>> Even getting all those horizontals into their dadoes
>> *dry* was a bit of a juggling act. I held the first upright in
>> position with
>> some clamps and put all of the shelves into their dadoes. That was
>> easy enough. It was of course getting the second side
>> lined up that was tricky.
>> I'm considering fitting it all dry, getting it square,
>> and then screwing small blocks into the work surface one
>> one side (or possibly both sides) of each shelf so
>> they'll all be aligned before I put on the second side.
>> I've seen people glue up things like this with the box on
>> its side rather than on its front, but I haven't tried that yet.
I didn't see this when you first posted it Greg. Nice looking project.
That is one stout CD rack though! I don't think you'll have to worry about
it failing from the weight of the CD's.
How about a second set of hands for the glue up? Can you get the wife, or a
neighbor to start at one end of a side while you start at the other and work
towards each other? That will halve the time required and you should be
able to just run right down them glueing shelves in and then put up the
other side, and repeat. That should keep you ahead of the glue so that you
can square up the whole assembly and let the glue dry.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sun, 17 Nov 2013 07:12:59 -0500, dadiOH wrote:
> No need to glue up all at once. Make your box - sides, top, bottom,
> back - and a couple of intermediate shelves to keep the sides spaced.
> Later on, put in the remaining shelves. Too tight? Skinny them down a
> bit.
That's what I'd do as well. And you don't need a solid glue line for the
remaining shells. A little dab on the back of each groove and then when
the shelf is almost in, another little dab on each side of the shelf.
That's assuming you've prefinished and used some blue tape to protect the
finished parts near the dados.
--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.
On 11/17/2013 10:04 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 11/17/2013 6:01 PM, whit3rd wrote:
>> On Saturday, November 16, 2013 9:44:15 PM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> We've got about 500 CDs ... build a cabinet to store them in. I'm
>>> trying to keep this
>>> project manageably simple. (ha ha) Toward that end I am using glue-on
>>> edge veneer rather than a face frame and I am trying to come up with an
>>> easy finishing method as well. I will probably prefinish all of the
>>> parts.>
>>>
>>> The cabinet will be about 77"H x 20.5"W x 6.5" deep, with 12 shelves and
>>> thus 13 horizontals including the top.
>>
>> There ought to be a back (maybe not full-height), to keep the shelves
>> from racking; once thats nailed in place, the force on the glued
>> spots that can still bother you is the spreading force on the face.
>> These glue joints won't be terribly strong (end grain in the plywood,
>> at parts of
>> all surfaces that have the glue). You might benefit from using pocket
>> screws,
>> or prepping the shelves with a cemented-in vertical dowel and a
>> horizontal
>> screw through the side that bites into the dowel. I'd also consider
>> drilling a hole
>> through the sidewall into the shelf, and fitting a dowel (this makes a
>> kind
>> of afterthought version of a tenon).
>>
>> I'd consider edge-banding before assembly, the trimming of a veneer edge
>> band is easier on a straight board. Contact cement sets up fast, it
>> may be
>> less expensive than the iron-on veneer options.
>>
>
> I disagree, the dadoes will be plenty strong, the ply will be fine.
> This is overbuilt as it is. He could easily have gone for 1/2 or 3/8
> shelves for this build.
>
> This will be a tank, I agree on the back, but if it is not there the
> number of cross members will have make this very strong .
>
I concur.
At one time or another I've built a number of similar sized shelves,
most with dadoed slots. With 3/4" shelves just 20" wide, this is
overbuilt. I doubt it needs a back, but you could put a partial back on
it, perhaps covering the bottom couple of shelves and perhaps also in
the middle.
I call mine one deep shelves (~ 6" deep) and I cut the vertical spacing
to match what will land on it. The beauty of one deep is that nothing
can hide behind anything else.
I usually assembled mine on their side. A rubber mallet and some
sandpaper to thin any sticking shelves.
I would be more worried about stability. It's very tall on a small
footprint. You may wish to anchor it to a wall.
Jeff
On 11/16/2013 9:44 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> We've got about 500 CDs and although there's a lot more music in the
> world to discover,
>
> I'm considering fitting it all dry, getting it square, and then screwing
> small blocks into the work surface one one side (or possibly both sides)
> of each shelf so they'll all be aligned before I put on the second side.
>
> I've seen people glue up things like this with the box on its side
> rather than on its front, but I haven't tried that yet.
>
> Any tips would be appreciated.
When I build large bookcases like that, I "always" use pocket hole
joinery. Pocket holes cut way down on crazy glue up situations.
I also cut a few pieces of mdf that are the exact separation between
shelves. This help keep everything square and speeds the process up.
I would glue and screw the outside frame and after all that is squared
up, place the shelves in one at a time. I even place the back in the
unit on a temporary basis to get everything squared up.