Question has to do with wood -- more of the house / structural variety.
Seems there are a few carpenters around here, thought this might be an easy
question.....
I am working on relocating my kitchen to another part of my house. I mis
read the structure of an non load bearing wall (I thought there was going to
be a 3x(2x12) header -- yeah I know, why would I think so for a non-load
bearing wall......) anyway my original plan was to reframe the wall with
2x6's to provide a channel to get around the header for the 1.5" vent pipe
for the kitchen drain
Ok so I find out after some demolition that the 3x(2x12) header is actually
a box framed with 2x4's covered with the same 1x12 material that on an
adjoining wall is covering the 3x(2x12) beam.
So here is the question. Can a plumber cut a 1.5" hole in the top plate of
a nonload bearing (gable end) exterior 2x4 stud wall to run the vent pipe ?
As I am doing the framing and my plumber is doing the plumbing and seeing
that it is after COB on friday I'd hate to loose the weekend waiting to get
the answer from him.
I have several resources on framing construction, but non on plumbing -- if
there were any references on the web that would be greate as well.
for reference I live in Maryland
Now the real question is where did I put the receipt for the 25 2x6's that I
have to exchange for 25 2x4's.......
TIA
Eric
eric wrote:
>Question has to do with wood -- more of the house / structural variety.
>Seems there are a few carpenters around here, thought this might be an easy
>question.....
>
>I am working on relocating my kitchen to another part of my house. I mis
>read the structure of an non load bearing wall (I thought there was going to
>be a 3x(2x12) header -- yeah I know, why would I think so for a non-load
>bearing wall......) anyway my original plan was to reframe the wall with
>2x6's to provide a channel to get around the header for the 1.5" vent pipe
>for the kitchen drain
>
>Ok so I find out after some demolition that the 3x(2x12) header is actually
>a box framed with 2x4's covered with the same 1x12 material that on an
>adjoining wall is covering the 3x(2x12) beam.
>
>So here is the question. Can a plumber cut a 1.5" hole in the top plate of
>a nonload bearing (gable end) exterior 2x4 stud wall to run the vent pipe ?
>As I am doing the framing and my plumber is doing the plumbing and seeing
>that it is after COB on friday I'd hate to loose the weekend waiting to get
>the answer from him.
>
...I've seen plumbers do a lot worse! Seriously, though, I don't think
your house will fall down anytime soon...since now it's a unit comprised
of framing material, insulation, interior drywall/plaster, exterior
siding/stucco/whatever. Have at it. cg
If all he is using is a 3 inch pipe (max.) then yes. As a matter of fact it
is done on load bearing walls too. Plumber guy should be able to help you if
there are any code considerations (otherwise maybe he isn't the plumber you
want)
--
Young Carpenter
"Save a Tree, Build Furniture"
"eric" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Question has to do with wood -- more of the house / structural variety.
> Seems there are a few carpenters around here, thought this might be an
easy
> question.....
>
> I am working on relocating my kitchen to another part of my house. I mis
> read the structure of an non load bearing wall (I thought there was going
to
> be a 3x(2x12) header -- yeah I know, why would I think so for a non-load
> bearing wall......) anyway my original plan was to reframe the wall with
> 2x6's to provide a channel to get around the header for the 1.5" vent pipe
> for the kitchen drain
>
> Ok so I find out after some demolition that the 3x(2x12) header is
actually
> a box framed with 2x4's covered with the same 1x12 material that on an
> adjoining wall is covering the 3x(2x12) beam.
>
> So here is the question. Can a plumber cut a 1.5" hole in the top plate
of
> a nonload bearing (gable end) exterior 2x4 stud wall to run the vent pipe
?
> As I am doing the framing and my plumber is doing the plumbing and seeing
> that it is after COB on friday I'd hate to loose the weekend waiting to
get
> the answer from him.
>
> I have several resources on framing construction, but non on plumbing --
if
> there were any references on the web that would be greate as well.
>
> for reference I live in Maryland
>
> Now the real question is where did I put the receipt for the 25 2x6's that
I
> have to exchange for 25 2x4's.......
>
> TIA
> Eric
>
>
>
>
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"eric" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Question has to do with wood -- more of the house / structural
variety.
> Seems there are a few carpenters around here, thought this might be
an easy
> question.....
>
> I am working on relocating my kitchen to another part of my house.
I mis
> read the structure of an non load bearing wall (I thought there was
going to
> be a 3x(2x12) header -- yeah I know, why would I think so for a
non-load
> bearing wall......) anyway my original plan was to reframe the wall
with
> 2x6's to provide a channel to get around the header for the 1.5"
vent pipe
> for the kitchen drain
>
> Ok so I find out after some demolition that the 3x(2x12) header is
actually
> a box framed with 2x4's covered with the same 1x12 material that on
an
> adjoining wall is covering the 3x(2x12) beam.
>
> So here is the question. Can a plumber cut a 1.5" hole in the top
plate of
> a nonload bearing (gable end) exterior 2x4 stud wall to run the vent
pipe ?
> As I am doing the framing and my plumber is doing the plumbing and
seeing
> that it is after COB on friday I'd hate to loose the weekend waiting
to get
> the answer from him.
>
> I have several resources on framing construction, but non on
plumbing -- if
> there were any references on the web that would be greate as well.
>
> for reference I live in Maryland
In NC, you can put a 2 X8 on top of the wall (fastened), then drill
through the plates and the nailer.
--
Jim in NC--