I have a 9 year old bridgewood BW1758 DP. It has a HD YAMA chuck and
#2MT, all original. Has not been heavily used and worked fine until lately.
I have a sanding drum set and needed to use it. I chucked in a sanding drum
and while working on a 3" thick piece of pine the chuck and arbor dropped
out.
I placed the chuck and arbor into the quill and tightened down again and
again since it keeps falling out when I use the sanding drums.
It seems to drill fine. Any idea if I need a new morse taper? What
makes it drop out?
Thanks,
Barry
Taper type arbor drill presses are not intended for use with sanding drums,
you may even score the faces of the taper with continued use. Use a real
drum sander or get a thread on type arbor drill press if you still want to
use a drill press for sanding.
My bro in law had the same problem & actually smeared a dab of locktite on
the taper face before tapping it back in, I did not really think it would
help but so far it has held proving it's worth a try if like him you don't
care about getting it out again.
Actually he (my bro in law) does not care about anything & has reduced many
good tools to garbage due to misuse over the years.
--
© Jon Down ®
http://www.stores.ebay.com/jdpowertoolcanada Late Friday nights see a new
load of offerings!
"You cannot make someone love you.
All you can do is stalk them and hope they panic and give in."
"Barry Kwasny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 9 year old bridgewood BW1758 DP. It has a HD YAMA chuck and
> #2MT, all original. Has not been heavily used and worked fine until
lately.
> I have a sanding drum set and needed to use it. I chucked in a sanding
drum
> and while working on a 3" thick piece of pine the chuck and arbor dropped
> out.
> I placed the chuck and arbor into the quill and tightened down again
and
> again since it keeps falling out when I use the sanding drums.
> It seems to drill fine. Any idea if I need a new morse taper? What
> makes it drop out?
>
> Thanks,
> Barry
>
>
Powertoolman notes:
>My bro in law had the same problem & actually smeared a dab of locktite on
>the taper face before tapping it back in, I did not really think it would
>help but so far it has held proving it's worth a try if like him you don't
>care about getting it out again.
>Actually he (my bro in law) does not care about anything & has reduced many
>good tools to garbage due to misuse over the year
Lots of people do. In this case, the OP might try thoroughly cleaning both
parts of the assembly with alcohol or acetone to make sure ALL grease is gone.
Then reassemble carefully and see what happens.
Charlie Self
"It is even harder for the average ape to believe that he has descended from
man."
H. L. Mencken
"Barry Kwasny" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a 9 year old bridgewood BW1758 DP. It has a HD YAMA chuck and
> #2MT, all original. Has not been heavily used and worked fine until
lately.
> I have a sanding drum set and needed to use it. I chucked in a sanding
drum
> and while working on a 3" thick piece of pine the chuck and arbor dropped
> out.
> I placed the chuck and arbor into the quill and tightened down again
and
> again since it keeps falling out when I use the sanding drums.
> It seems to drill fine. Any idea if I need a new morse taper? What
> makes it drop out?
>
> Thanks,
> Barry
Tapered chucks are designed to drill, not sand. The lateral forces can
knock them off. When used for boring, the pressure is all downwards and it
keeps the tapered part together. When sanding the force is to the side and
you have a lot of leverage and it tends to work like a wedge.
You can try cleaning the mating parts and tapping them together, but it will
probably just fall out again. Time to start saving $$ for a real sander.
Ed
On Thu, 1 Jul 2004 22:36:09 -0400, "Barry Kwasny" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I have a 9 year old bridgewood BW1758 DP. It has a HD YAMA chuck and
>#2MT, all original. Has not been heavily used and worked fine until lately.
>I have a sanding drum set and needed to use it. I chucked in a sanding drum
>and while working on a 3" thick piece of pine the chuck and arbor dropped
>out.
> I placed the chuck and arbor into the quill and tightened down again and
>again since it keeps falling out when I use the sanding drums.
> It seems to drill fine. Any idea if I need a new morse taper? What
>makes it drop out?
>
>Thanks,
> Barry
>
drill presses with non bar-drawn tapers are not for use with mill
cutters, sanding drums, router bits and other side loaded tooling.
it's gonna keep falling out, and eventually you will damage the taper.
i posted a while back about how to do this with a skateboard bearing and
some all thread. im sure google will find it.
randy
"JMWEBER987" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lee Valley Tools (among others) sells a bearing device to support the
bottom of
> the sanding drum to eliminate side pressure on the drill press spindle. I
> recently saw plans online on how to build your own but of course can't
locate
> it now that I want to. Mike in Arkansas
Barry:
A 2MT taper is self locking, if it isn't then you need to check for debris
or any small dings. Unfortunately, checking the female taper is difficult.
There are 2MT taper cleaners, plastic devices that are inexpensive and work
pretty well. If the female taper is damaged, then a 2MT finishing reamer
will repair it, however that's an expensive bit of hardware. Check the male
taper as well, you can stone off any blemishes.
Then, as already mentioned, make sure both sides are clean.
Then ensure the tang is aligned properly and give it a good whack with a
mallet to seat it.
You should have no problems. Milling loads are significantly more stressful
than sanding. I have a 17" DP that I occasionally use for sanding drum
operations and don't have any problems with the MT releasing.