using routing or cutting tools for insetting accoustic ceiling tile edges

Prometheus wrote:
> On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 13:22:42 -0500, "bent" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> You know the regular Armstrong, the ones that fit into the track rather than
>> on top of it. I am now cutting the non-inset 2'x4' type to fit all my
>> openings.. I have about 65 tiles total, average about 3'x2' in 4 rooms with
>> not perfect, but simple boundaries. If I could rabbett or straight bit the
>> edge, or use a TS is this possible? They are white, and I could spray the
>> edge if I can make a deent profile. Is this too much hassles/impossible.
>> I am thinking I COULD pencil along the panel as it sits on top like it was
>> meant to stay, then tool it to the T-bar, minus a little for play
>
> I'm thinking it'd be too much of a mess. Acoustic tile will cut very
> nicely with a utility knife and a straight-edge. If you really need
> it, I believe they make a special knife for rabbeting the edges when
> you want the tiles to protrude below the track.
>
> In any case, a thin, sharp blade is going to work better for you than
> a power tool. Those things are more like cardboard than wood, and are
> likely to be full of things you shouldn't be breathing in as fine
> dust, to boot. If you need to cut curves, use a drywall keyhole saw
> or a coping saw.
What about a fence on a flat surface with a blade protruding from the
fence. It would stick out the depth of the cut and be above the table
the distance from the edge to score the surface. this would score the
face of the panels. then use another blade, possibly on the other side
of the fence to slice off the marked portion from the first cut. Score
all 4 edges then slice the waste off. 520 cuts in all, but it's quiet,
and not too dusty.
Bad ASCII art
XXX flat surface
FFFFF Fence
- scoring blade on the left of the fence
_ slicing blade on the right of the blade
Make the fence tall enough to support the panels and the surface wide
enough to slide easily.
Joe

F
F_
F
-F
F
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 13:22:42 -0500, "bent" <[email protected]> wrote:

>You know the regular Armstrong, the ones that fit into the track rather than
>on top of it. I am now cutting the non-inset 2'x4' type to fit all my
>openings.. I have about 65 tiles total, average about 3'x2' in 4 rooms with
>not perfect, but simple boundaries. If I could rabbett or straight bit the
>edge, or use a TS is this possible? They are white, and I could spray the
>edge if I can make a deent profile. Is this too much hassles/impossible.
>I am thinking I COULD pencil along the panel as it sits on top like it was
>meant to stay, then tool it to the T-bar, minus a little for play

I'm thinking it'd be too much of a mess. Acoustic tile will cut very
nicely with a utility knife and a straight-edge. If you really need
it, I believe they make a special knife for rabbeting the edges when
you want the tiles to protrude below the track.

In any case, a thin, sharp blade is going to work better for you than
a power tool. Those things are more like cardboard than wood, and are
likely to be full of things you shouldn't be breathing in as fine
dust, to boot. If you need to cut curves, use a drywall keyhole saw
or a coping saw.

On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 12:09:08 -0500, Joe Gorman <[email protected]>
wrote:

>What about a fence on a flat surface with a blade protruding from the
>fence. It would stick out the depth of the cut and be above the table
>the distance from the edge to score the surface. this would score the
>face of the panels. then use another blade, possibly on the other side
>of the fence to slice off the marked portion from the first cut. Score
>all 4 edges then slice the waste off. 520 cuts in all, but it's quiet,
>and not too dusty.

I take it the scoring blade is a stationary razor or similar? If
that's the case, it should work great, and be less work than a simple
straightedge and utility knife. It's a nice solution, really- if I
ever have to install one of those ceilings again, I think I'll try it
out.