Hello all,
I have just recently come into ownership of some older drawknives that are
in dire need of some tlc. The largest of the bunch is 13" across, and I
was wondering what most here use to sharpen theirs?
Has anyone ever used the "scary sharp" method on a drawknife, or is it
best to use the traditional oilstones?
Thanks in advance :)
Driador
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" wrote
>
> > I'm curious... having done a good amount of work with a draw knife, I
have
> > to wonder why anyone would want an edge like scary sharp can put on a
> blade.
> > Draw knives need not be any sharper than what a file will do for you.
> Think
> > about what you're doing with it - shaving bark.
>
> Drawknives arent '_just_ for scraping bark.
> you can with a sharp draw-kife do some incredibly itricate and delecate
> work.
>
> >Super sharp edges are not
> > the right edge for every tool. Think also about where you're pulling
that
> > damned thing to... as you sit astride the log you're shaving...
>
> You pretty much can't gore yourself without becoming double jointed at
both
> the elbows and shoulders.
> take a dull knife and see just how far back you need to pull your arms to
> even get close.
>
>
Actually, I was trying to be a little funny.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Driador wrote:
>>Hello all,
>
>I have just recently come into ownership of some older drawknives that are
>in dire need of some tlc. The largest of the bunch is 13" across, and I
>was wondering what most here use to sharpen theirs?
>
>Has anyone ever used the "scary sharp" method on a drawknife, or is it
>best to use the traditional oilstones?
>
>Thanks in advance :)
>Driador
>
>
I use a grinder or file, depending on the blade's form, to set the bevel, then
follow up with a contoured sanding block papered with increasingly finer grits.
Sorta "scary sharp" Be careful to keep your mind on your work, and you won't
get cut. DAMHIKT. Tom>
Work at your leisure!
Driador <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Hello all,
>
> I have just recently come into ownership of some older drawknives that are
> in dire need of some tlc. The largest of the bunch is 13" across, and I
> was wondering what most here use to sharpen theirs?
>
> Has anyone ever used the "scary sharp" method on a drawknife, or is it
> best to use the traditional oilstones?
>
> Thanks in advance :)
> Driador
Some years back I was a trainer in a pack'n house. We used a variety
of draw knives. Sharpening was basically the same for the various
types. The grind was at about 25deg. After that two stones were
used. A medium grit stone and a white arkansas stone. The medium
grit was used in a circular motion flat on the ground bevel to smooth
it out. The arkasas was used on the bevel side at a slight angle
sliding it over the curve of the blade and back again, done in
sections so as to maintain a constant angle. Then the same was done
on the back of the blade but flat against the blade, much like a
chisel. This pushed the wire edge back and forth till it was gone.
To maintain the edge a good quality steel was used by holding it
vertically and sliding it across the blade which is held horizontally.
First across the bevel side at the stoned angle, flip knife, then
across the back at like 1 degree above flat. Finish the steel on the
bevel side. #80 grit emery is stroked the length of the steel to put
vertical grooving in it. This works just fine to bring a rolled edge
up. Also, we used soapy water for a lube. With care, a razor of a
blade can be had.
I'd guess that woodworking draw knives can be sharpened the same way.
I'm yet to try but when I do I'll try this pack'n house method first.
Lawrence
On 2 Jul 2004 12:25:58 -0700, Fred the Red Shirt <[email protected]> wrote:
> dave in fairfax <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
>> If the knife isn't sharp and you try to pull it through a sticky
>> spot you can hurt yourself pretty good when it pops free. There's
>> a reason all those guys were wearing a plank on a rope.
>
> Yep. That's what happened to my half-brother...
You are Roy Underhill, and I claim my videotape copy of his 10th
anniversary show.
Dave "Or, wasn't this 'spot the reference'?" Hinz
On Fri, 02 Jul 2004 23:54:50 GMT, dave in fairfax <[email protected]> wrote:
> Dave Hinz wrote:
>> You are Roy Underhill, and I claim my videotape copy of his 10th
>> anniversary show.
>
> Huh?
He made that same joke on his 20th (just checked) anniversary show
in the year 2000, explaining how care was needed with the drawknife,
etc, down to the "that's what happened to my half-brother".
Maybe it's an older joke than I thought?
Dave Hinz
J G wrote:
> You pretty much can't gore yourself without becoming double jointed at both
> the elbows and shoulders.
> take a dull knife and see just how far back you need to pull your arms to
> even get close.
If the knife isn't sharp and you try to pull it through a sticky
spot you can hurt yourself pretty good when it pops free. There's
a reason all those guys were wearing a plank on a rope.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
George wrote:
> That's why you skew it a bit and slide lengthwise through those kinds of
> spots. Cuts like butter. You as a turner should know the value of sliding
> past the fibers as you cut forward.
> Of course, there are those who dig in bevel up and yank like hell. They
> could probably use body armor.
I was thinking of the comment about it not being necessary to
sharpen drawknives because they're only used for debarking. Mine
are nice and sharp and are no probelm at all to use. When trying
to work through a knot with a dull knife and yanking, I could see
hari-kari as an outcome.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
Dave Hinz wrote:
> He made that same joke on his 20th (just checked) anniversary show
> in the year 2000, explaining how care was needed with the drawknife,
> etc, down to the "that's what happened to my half-brother".
> Maybe it's an older joke than I thought?
I see, or rather I didn't. Reminds me of the bandsaw suicide
picture.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
I would fix the "stone" and move the knife. Safer, as both hands will be on
the handles.
Bark knives are adequately sharpened with scythe stones, which offer a bit
of distance for the hands.
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > I have just recently come into ownership of some older drawknives
>
> Congratulations.
>
>
> > Has anyone ever used the "scary sharp" method on a drawknife,
>
> Yes, indeed. I simply make a Scary_Sharp(tm) Slip and CAREFULLY work the
> edge as you would a traditional slip.
>
>
Yep. People look at me strangely when I put on my 1/4" thick leather bib
before straddling the horse, but it's that or bruises in the xiphoid from
using the body clamp.
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> > There's a reason all those guys were wearing a plank on a rope.
>
> Yeah, to keep you from bruising your belly/sternum and wearing holes in
your
> shirts from stabilizing the workpeice with your chest.
>
That's why you skew it a bit and slide lengthwise through those kinds of
spots. Cuts like butter. You as a turner should know the value of sliding
past the fibers as you cut forward.
Of course, there are those who dig in bevel up and yank like hell. They
could probably use body armor.
"dave in fairfax" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> If the knife isn't sharp and you try to pull it through a sticky
> spot you can hurt yourself pretty good when it pops free. There's
> a reason all those guys were wearing a plank on a rope.
> Dave in Fairfax
> --
> Dave Leader
> reply-to doesn't work
> use:
> daveldr at att dot net
> American Association of Woodturners
> http://www.woodturner.org
> Capital Area Woodturners
> http://www.capwoodturners.org/
"Mike Marlow" wrote
> I'm curious... having done a good amount of work with a draw knife, I have
> to wonder why anyone would want an edge like scary sharp can put on a
blade.
> Draw knives need not be any sharper than what a file will do for you.
Think
> about what you're doing with it - shaving bark.
Drawknives arent '_just_ for scraping bark.
you can with a sharp draw-kife do some incredibly itricate and delecate
work.
>Super sharp edges are not
> the right edge for every tool. Think also about where you're pulling that
> damned thing to... as you sit astride the log you're shaving...
You pretty much can't gore yourself without becoming double jointed at both
the elbows and shoulders.
take a dull knife and see just how far back you need to pull your arms to
even get close.
"Bob Brogan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > "J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > > I have just recently come into ownership of some older drawknives
> > >
> > > Congratulations.
> > >
> > >
> > > > Has anyone ever used the "scary sharp" method on a drawknife,
> > >
> > > Yes, indeed. I simply make a Scary_Sharp(tm) Slip and CAREFULLY work
the
> > > edge as you would a traditional slip.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > I'm curious... having done a good amount of work with a draw knife, I
have
> > to wonder why anyone would want an edge like scary sharp can put on a
blade.
> > Draw knives need not be any sharper than what a file will do for you.
Think
> > about what you're doing with it - shaving bark. Super sharp edges are
not
> > the right edge for every tool. Think also about where you're pulling
that
> > damned thing to... as you sit astride the log you're shaving...
>
> Who's "shaving logs"? I've watched the folks at the Martin Guitar
> factory carve a blank into a guitar neck with a draw knife. That's a far
> cry from a log.
Really?!? Didn't know that. Pretty cool. Just goes to show ya learn
something new every day... and that ya shouldn't go assuming things.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > > I have just recently come into ownership of some older drawknives
> >
> > Congratulations.
> >
> >
> > > Has anyone ever used the "scary sharp" method on a drawknife,
> >
> > Yes, indeed. I simply make a Scary_Sharp(tm) Slip and CAREFULLY work the
> > edge as you would a traditional slip.
> >
> >
>
> I'm curious... having done a good amount of work with a draw knife, I have
> to wonder why anyone would want an edge like scary sharp can put on a blade.
> Draw knives need not be any sharper than what a file will do for you. Think
> about what you're doing with it - shaving bark. Super sharp edges are not
> the right edge for every tool. Think also about where you're pulling that
> damned thing to... as you sit astride the log you're shaving...
Who's "shaving logs"? I've watched the folks at the Martin Guitar
factory carve a blank into a guitar neck with a draw knife. That's a far
cry from a log.
--
Thanks,
Ham
dave in fairfax <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> J G wrote:
> > You pretty much can't gore yourself without becoming double jointed at both
> > the elbows and shoulders.
> > take a dull knife and see just how far back you need to pull your arms to
> > even get close.
>
> If the knife isn't sharp and you try to pull it through a sticky
> spot you can hurt yourself pretty good when it pops free. There's
> a reason all those guys were wearing a plank on a rope.
Yep. That's what happened to my half-brother...
--
FF
"J G" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > I have just recently come into ownership of some older drawknives
>
> Congratulations.
>
>
> > Has anyone ever used the "scary sharp" method on a drawknife,
>
> Yes, indeed. I simply make a Scary_Sharp(tm) Slip and CAREFULLY work the
> edge as you would a traditional slip.
>
>
I'm curious... having done a good amount of work with a draw knife, I have
to wonder why anyone would want an edge like scary sharp can put on a blade.
Draw knives need not be any sharper than what a file will do for you. Think
about what you're doing with it - shaving bark. Super sharp edges are not
the right edge for every tool. Think also about where you're pulling that
damned thing to... as you sit astride the log you're shaving...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]