The saga continues...
Yes, still working on that first project (book shelf). I have everything
cut to size and shape and sanded down to 220. So I'm ready for construction
and glue up. That is, as soon as I get that 220 dust off the pieces.
So I hear I don't want to wipe down with a damp rag, because that will raise
the grain on the wood again. Advice seems to be to use a tack cloth. I
hear you can buy them (the easy but expensive route), make them (mineral
spirits and a rag???), and the adult ed instructor said he just uses a rag
with Endust (first I've ever heard/read of).
So what's a beginner to do?
Thanks
On Wed, 27 Oct 2004 02:23:49 +0100, "gandalf"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:b3Cfd.13014$5O4.2606@trnddc07...
>> The only air I have used to blow dust is a leaf blower. Not sure what the
>> psi would be on that. It does the trick on getting grass or sawdust off
>> me
>> though.
>>
>-----------
>Sure beats rubbing yourself down with a tack cloth.....
>
well, the jury's still out on that one... depends on who you can get
to handle the tack cloth for you..
Corey asks:
>That is, as soon as I get that 220 dust off the pieces.
>
>So I hear I don't want to wipe down with a damp rag, because that will raise
>the grain on the wood again. Advice seems to be to use a tack cloth. I
>hear you can buy them (the easy but expensive route), make them (mineral
>spirits and a rag???), and the adult ed instructor said he just uses a rag
>with Endust (first I've ever heard/read of).
>
>So what's a beginner to do?
Yeah, well a standard tack cloth will work--cost is usually well under a buck.
To make a tack cloth, get some cheesecloth, fold it about four times to make a
pad about 4" on a side, drip in some of the finish you're going to use, thinned
a bit. Work the finish through the cheescloth, and wipe. Store the homemade
cloth in a closed container that doesn't leak air. Storage doesn't work for
shellac tack cloths.
Also, Norton makes a microfiber "tack" cloth that's a marvel to use. I'm told
that refills for the Swiffer also work well.
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
Hi Corey,
Well, maybe I'm too late.
My background; Did my first install and
countertop in 1969. My first full kitchen and install during the Watergate
trials.
In the late '70's, Alan Park, then the president of Rudd paint put on his
overalls
and came into the finish booth with us
for some advanced instruction. Been a
Firefighter for many years but I have
recently gone back to working in the
cabinet shops. Have built most of the
fine furniture in our home along with
several guitars. I am currently spending
many of my days off in the spray booth
in a cabinet shop.
That's the background, here's the
recommendation.
Tack cloths leave more than they pick up.
You didn't mention the type of finish but
here are a few guidelines.
Use a high quality sandpaper. The new
foil backed gold papers are very expensive
but have a long life and are worth the
price. Sand to 120# when staining, 400#
to 600# when dyeing, but don't use carbide
paper as the rounder particles will burnish
rather than abrade. After applying the dye
resand to 240# for surface finishes.
Sand to at least 240# for Walnut. All
veneered panels should be block sanded
only, never with a power sander.
Don't use oil based stains under surface
finishes. Change your sandpaper very often...it's easy to polish and burnish
and the staining will be blotchy.
Been planning on a finishing video but not
a lot of time to do that. Even the pro's
do some occasional stupid things when
prepping to finish, and the video would
help out in the shop I'm in.
Might be of more help if I knew the wood, stain, dye, and type of finish.
Hope this helped.
-Rick
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b3Cfd.13014$5O4.2606@trnddc07...
> The only air I have used to blow dust is a leaf blower. Not sure what the
> psi would be on that. It does the trick on getting grass or sawdust off
> me
> though.
>
-----------
Sure beats rubbing yourself down with a tack cloth.....
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ZLUed.3163$LT1.591@trnddc09...
> The saga continues...
>
> Yes, still working on that first project (book shelf). I have everything
> cut to size and shape and sanded down to 220. So I'm ready for
construction
> and glue up. That is, as soon as I get that 220 dust off the pieces.
>
> So I hear I don't want to wipe down with a damp rag, because that will
raise
> the grain on the wood again. Advice seems to be to use a tack cloth. I
> hear you can buy them (the easy but expensive route), make them (mineral
> spirits and a rag???), and the adult ed instructor said he just uses a rag
> with Endust (first I've ever heard/read of).
>
> So what's a beginner to do?
>
> Thanks
>
> I take items out doors and blast with air hose. Any yea or nay comments
about this action? Warren
>
Warren Weber writes:
>> So I hear I don't want to wipe down with a damp rag, because that will
>raise
>> the grain on the wood again. Advice seems to be to use a tack cloth. I
>> hear you can buy them (the easy but expensive route), make them (mineral
>> spirits and a rag???), and the adult ed instructor said he just uses a rag
>> with Endust (first I've ever heard/read of).
>>
>> So what's a beginner to do?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> I take items out doors and blast with air hose. Any yea or nay comments
>about this action?
What happens when you build something that doesn't relocate that well? Too,
moving the item back into the shop can raise dust. Further, there's always the
chance of oil and water in your compressed air unless you filter it as you were
using it with a spray gun.
But, yeah, I blow things off, too, but inside and wearing a dust mask while I
do it. So far, no problems (but I don't do it often and I've only been doing it
for 20-25 years). Sometimes in really dusty conditions, the dust partially
resettles on the project; time for the microfiber or other tack rag then.
Charlie Self
"When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not
hereditary." Thomas Paine
"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> What happens when you build something that doesn't relocate that well?
> Too,
> moving the item back into the shop can raise dust. Further, there's always
> the
> chance of oil and water in your compressed air unless you filter it as you
> were
> using it with a spray gun.
I'll keep an eye out for oil coming through but so far I only get a bit of
moisture adter blowing for a while. I have been blowing vs. tacking for
about 15 years now.
>
> But, yeah, I blow things off, too, but inside and wearing a dust mask
> while I
> do it. So far, no problems (but I don't do it often and I've only been
> doing it
> for 20-25 years). Sometimes in really dusty conditions, the dust partially
> resettles on the project; time for the microfiber or other tack rag then.
I generally have the garage door open, blow towards the open garage door and
have a fan blowing with the project between the fan and the door. Works
fine for me.
Fortunately the big wide door opening lets every thing get blown out.
>
> Charlie Self
> "When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is
> not
> hereditary." Thomas Paine
"Corey" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<ZLUed.3163$LT1.591@trnddc09>...
> So I hear I don't want to wipe down with a damp rag, because that will raise
> the grain on the wood again. Advice seems to be to use a tack cloth. I
> hear you can buy them (the easy but expensive route), make them (mineral
> spirits and a rag???)
There are some pretty thorough instructions at this site. YMMV.
http://www.klownhammer.org/tackcloth
Humbly submitted,
O'Deen
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:02:49 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The saga continues...
>
>Yes, still working on that first project (book shelf). I have everything
>cut to size and shape and sanded down to 220. So I'm ready for construction
>and glue up. That is, as soon as I get that 220 dust off the pieces.
>
>So I hear I don't want to wipe down with a damp rag, because that will raise
>the grain on the wood again. Advice seems to be to use a tack cloth. I
>hear you can buy them (the easy but expensive route), make them (mineral
>spirits and a rag???), and the adult ed instructor said he just uses a rag
>with Endust (first I've ever heard/read of).
>
>So what's a beginner to do?
>
>Thanks
>
>
I'd suggest that you spend a few bucks on a 3 pack of tack rags... not
only will it do the job for you, but you'll see what they are and how
they work..
IMHO, it's hard to duplicate or make something that you've never
used... kind of asking someone to make brown paint when they've never
seen brown before...
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 19:46:04 -0500, Prometheus
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 05:23:58 -0400, "Cherokee-LTD"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>:
>>: Expensive? I bought one a couple of weeks ago for 88 cents. It's
>>: well worth just getting one from the store, IMO. Otherwise, if
>>: they've got an air line, you could just blow it off. (Just make sure
>>: there isn't water in the compressor first by blowing it against the
>>: table or something)
>>:
>>
>>Agree on both counts.
>>If I'm lazy and using air, I deflect it off the back of my hand - I do so by
>>holding the nozzle straight down and direct the airflow accordingly.
>>Sometimes I can feel a bit of moisture on my hand but usually not. Caution:
>>do not hold it too close to your hand!
>
>I just blow it against my hand, too- but not knowing the situation of
>the person posting, I didn't want to suggest that too readily. Some
>people find compressed air painful and/or damaging.
>
>>-Brian
>>
I've heard that getting an air bubble in your blood stream is not
fun..
Sort of extreme, but you never know how much PSI some folks may be
running..
The only air I have used to blow dust is a leaf blower. Not sure what the
psi would be on that. It does the trick on getting grass or sawdust off me
though.
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 05:23:58 -0400, "Cherokee-LTD"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >:
> >: Expensive? I bought one a couple of weeks ago for 88 cents. It's
> >: well worth just getting one from the store, IMO. Otherwise, if
> >: they've got an air line, you could just blow it off. (Just make sure
> >: there isn't water in the compressor first by blowing it against the
> >: table or something)
> >:
> >
> >Agree on both counts.
> >If I'm lazy and using air, I deflect it off the back of my hand - I do so
by
> >holding the nozzle straight down and direct the airflow accordingly.
> >Sometimes I can feel a bit of moisture on my hand but usually not.
Caution:
> >do not hold it too close to your hand!
>
> I just blow it against my hand, too- but not knowing the situation of
> the person posting, I didn't want to suggest that too readily. Some
> people find compressed air painful and/or damaging.
>
> >-Brian
> >
>
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
:
: Expensive? I bought one a couple of weeks ago for 88 cents. It's
: well worth just getting one from the store, IMO. Otherwise, if
: they've got an air line, you could just blow it off. (Just make sure
: there isn't water in the compressor first by blowing it against the
: table or something)
:
Agree on both counts.
If I'm lazy and using air, I deflect it off the back of my hand - I do so by
holding the nozzle straight down and direct the airflow accordingly.
Sometimes I can feel a bit of moisture on my hand but usually not. Caution:
do not hold it too close to your hand!
-Brian
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 23:23:35 +0000, Charlie Self wrote:
> Also, Norton makes a microfiber "tack" cloth that's a marvel to use. I'm told
> that refills for the Swiffer also work well.
Based on somebody's post here, I went to the fabric store and asked for
microfiber cloth. The helpful clerk pointed out two kinds for our
purposes; one is a moleskin texture, the other is glossy. Some tips from
her:
1. Use the "front" side only. (Sewing people have a word for it.)
2. Keep it folded, front side in, in a plastic bag with a dryer sheet to
inhibit static. (The dryer sheet thing sounds half-baked to me, but what
the heck.)
I got half a yard. So far, it works great for cleaning glasses.
Haven't had to tack anything yet.
Apparently the word is out. Photo and astro guys, and now wood, popping
into fabric stores all over the world...
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 21:02:49 GMT, "Corey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>The saga continues...
>
>Yes, still working on that first project (book shelf). I have everything
>cut to size and shape and sanded down to 220. So I'm ready for construction
>and glue up. That is, as soon as I get that 220 dust off the pieces.
>
>So I hear I don't want to wipe down with a damp rag, because that will raise
>the grain on the wood again. Advice seems to be to use a tack cloth. I
>hear you can buy them (the easy but expensive route), make them (mineral
>spirits and a rag???), and the adult ed instructor said he just uses a rag
>with Endust (first I've ever heard/read of).
Expensive? I bought one a couple of weeks ago for 88 cents. It's
well worth just getting one from the store, IMO. Otherwise, if
they've got an air line, you could just blow it off. (Just make sure
there isn't water in the compressor first by blowing it against the
table or something)
>So what's a beginner to do?
>
>Thanks
>
>
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 05:23:58 -0400, "Cherokee-LTD"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>:
>: Expensive? I bought one a couple of weeks ago for 88 cents. It's
>: well worth just getting one from the store, IMO. Otherwise, if
>: they've got an air line, you could just blow it off. (Just make sure
>: there isn't water in the compressor first by blowing it against the
>: table or something)
>:
>
>Agree on both counts.
>If I'm lazy and using air, I deflect it off the back of my hand - I do so by
>holding the nozzle straight down and direct the airflow accordingly.
>Sometimes I can feel a bit of moisture on my hand but usually not. Caution:
>do not hold it too close to your hand!
I just blow it against my hand, too- but not knowing the situation of
the person posting, I didn't want to suggest that too readily. Some
people find compressed air painful and/or damaging.
>-Brian
>